Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    This sounds like hokum to me! I do not have any doubt that he said it or even that he believes it, but I think it is garbage!!! Just think about it - even if we ignore the facts listed below, he is telling you that ONLY Metzeler tires are such crap that they destroy themselves if run at the manufacturer's recommended pressure (even tho he tries to mislead you by saying he has seen it on other brands, Metzeler is the ONLY one with the massive number of reports of these failures)! If this is the type of crud he is offloading on you, I wouldn't ever deal with him again. Just my opinion. Goose BUT, the following is NOT just my opinion --> Here is information straight from the Metzeler site: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/web/products/tire_pressures/default.page "Tire Pressure Always inflate tires to the correct pressure as indicated in the owner's manual. However Metzeler North America has found the air pressure suggestions listed below will improve mileage and customer satisfaction especially if a emphasis is placed on running the air pressure towards the maximum as stated on the sidewall. Check cold tire pressures frequently. Correct tire pressure is crucial for safe handling. Over inflation may impair ride comfort and reduce the contact patch between the tire and driving surface of the tires. Insufficient air pressure will result in poor handling and cause a tendency for the motorcycle to "wander". In addition, improper and insufficient tire will cause accelerated tire wear, increased fuel consumption, less control and the possibilities for tire failure to due an overload/under inflated operating situation. Recommended Minimum Tire Pressures (PSI) Touring/Cruiser Alphanumeric ME880 Solo 2 Up Light 2 Up Heavy Front 36 40 40 Rear 38 40 40 ME880 Solo 2 Up Light 2 Up Heavy Front 38-40 40-42 40-42 Rear 44-46 46-48 46-48 " (end quote) Note - sorry I cannot get this table more readable - can't find a way to use tabs here. Go to the link above to see it better.
  2. V7Goose
    My Canon SLR uses a new folder number for each 100 pictures, and once all the folder numbers are used up (999?), it turns into a pumpkin! I don't remember all the details, but it is somewhat documented in the user's manual. But they don't tell you what you can do when you get the pumpkin to turn it back into a camera. I just figured I'd file the info away in the dusty recesses of my mind and call them if I ever got there!
  3. V7Goose
    Wow. Now there's a decision that really messes with my mind! Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Here is your solution: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17655&highlight=bolts You can replace them with either slotted or philips bolts (sometimes the slotted are actually a little flatter), but just make sure you don't bugger the head at all when you tighten them down or you will leave sharp little edges and have to file them off. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    I don't know this for a fact, but I believe it is to make sure you put it back with the original rotors and brake pads matched up instead of swapped. This ensures best continued braking efficiency as the pads don't have to re-wear in to match whatever surface grooves and ridges might be in the different rotor. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Sorry, can't help here - I just grease mine with the zerk fittings that came with it. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Yes you are - just a really old and slow squid!
  8. V7Goose

    Texas

    V7Goose replied to MAINEAC's topic in Watering Hole

    Coming to Texas and not riding the bike huh? I'm not sure we can allow that. I mean, how would you prove you are an acceptable person instead of just an average putz? I'd advise you to respond promptly so I don't have to notify the Texas Border Guard to be on the lookout for a biker poser...
  9. V7Goose
    You CANNOT use a normal gauge to check the pressure - maybe in the rear, but certainly NOT for the forks. The only option here is to use the gauge mounted with the pump and the zero-loss chuck that goes with it. Frankly, I don't know why you would need that much pressure just for riding two-up unless you two are VERY heavy. I weigh 250, my wife about 135, and even when the bike is fully loaded with trip gear AND us both, it NEVER rubs with only 45 lbs in the rear shock. (but be polite and don't mention that the weights I just gave you + other gear put us over the GVW for this machine!). ;-)
  10. V7Goose
    OK, this process is VERY easy, but I don't know if I can explain it clear enough without pictures. But I'll try: First, find an old 2x4 piece of lumber, a minimum of 3' long, but 4' - 6' is probably better. Ideally, use a center stand or maintenance stand to support the main weight of the bike on the frame. If you don't have one, place the bike on the side stand and use any kind of auto jack to hold up the frame anywhere you can find to put it rear of the side stand. You don't need to jack up the bike, just support the weight as you barely raise the rear tire off the pavement. Now lay the board down next to the right side of the rear tire. Now lay down on your right side next to the tire in a position that lets you get to the shock link bolts easily. This should have your feet pointing to the rear of the bike, with your knees slightly bent, almost like you were "spooning" with the rear tire (OK, no wise cracks here, I'm actually trying to help!). Ignore the piece of lumber for the moment and go ahead and remove the nuts on the strut bolts - both top and bottom. You won't be able to remove either strut (or "link" until you relieve pressure on the suspension. Here is where the lumber comes in. This might sound hard, but trust me it takes very little muscle power and is extremely easy to do. While laying on your right side in the position described above, after removing the nuts from the suspension link mounting bolts, grab the 2x4 laying in front of you and use it as a lever to raise the rear tire just enough to relieve the pressure on the bolts so you can slide the bottom one out. Here is how to do that: turn the 2x4 on it's side so the 4" part is vertical, and raise it up against the rear brake rotor. The front end of the 2x4 will be sitting on the driveway, and the position is not critical at all. Generally, I think it should be somewhere around the lower part of the shock, or maybe even a little further forward. Now here is where that specific position I described comes into play - with the 2x4 in place, simply raise your left knee up so it pushes up against the end of the 2x4 lever and raises the rear tire a tad. I KNOW that it does not sound like you could have enough muscle energy in that leg to lift up the rear of the bike just by raising your left leg while laying on your right side, but it is incredibly easy - try it! If you have any trouble lifting your left knee high enough, just move the 2x4 a bit further forward or let the front end sit on something like a 4x4 block; this will lower the rear end of the lever to make it easier for your knee to reach. Now, GENTLY apply pressure to the lever with your left knee while using your right hand to try and remove the lower mounting bolt. As soon as you raise it enough, the bolt will slide right out. You need to be careful to do this slow to find just the right amount of pressure; because, even a slight amount too much will lock the bolt as firmly in place as it was before you started. Once you have the lower bolt out, you can ignore the lever for a moment. Remove the top bolt and the existing links. Put the new links in place and put the top bolt back. At this point, you simply raise the lever with your knee again and position it just right to allow you to slip the bottom bolt back in place. Once both links are installed over the bolts,you no longer need the 2x4. Just put the nuts back on the bolts and torque them appropriately and you are done! Let me know if you have any questions; I'll do my best to help, Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Eh? Me no grok this equation. How can the bike be "wonderful" if such a major portion of the riding experience "sucks?" I think I'll stick with a bike I actually like! Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Thanx for the pix! I think I just saw more of maintenance day here than I did AT maintenance day! Trikes - I didn't see no stinking Venture trikes there - nor any pond monsters (probably happy for that!), nor any cavorting in the pond, but OH, that would have been nice!!! Sorry I didn't get to meet more of you yesterday. I guess I should have gotten out of my shell more and wandered around! I was dead beat this morning, but still managed to make it down to Nashville. I'm holed up here for the night to recuperate, then I'll finish the run into Fort Worth tomorrow. It just ain't fair that some of you could leave after dark and STILL make it home the same night! And I can't thank Don and Eileen enough for being such gracious hosts to a hoard of uncivilized bikers. And let's not forget the wonderful cheese cake makers (and their cheese cakes!) and all the others that put in so much effort to plan this thing and make it work. This was my first maintenance day, and I was quite impressed at how it all came together. Good to see you all again - looking forward to the next time! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    No driving, riding! (can you tell I am bored sitting in a hotel in BFE today?)
  14. V7Goose
    OK, VMAx, the most butt-ugly motorcycle made 20 years ago, and still the most butt-ugly motorcycle made today. I sit corrected - thank you. You make anything powerful enough and the squids will buy it, even if it is butt ugly.
  15. V7Goose
    The stock shield is 4" narrower (sides go straight up from where they go into the fairing), and 4" taller than the ShowChrome. Correct height depends on how tall you are and how long your mid section is. I'm 6'5", and correct height for me was to cut 1.5" off the stock shield. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    VMAx, the most Butt-Ugly motorcycle made today!!
  17. V7Goose
    I completely agree with all you said. No excuse for Yamaha to continue with this weak link in their premier touring bike - oh wait, since they don't advertise the best touring bike made, I guess they don't give a sh*t about it! My bad ... (same thing goes for the whine that afflicts a small but persistent number of these engines). Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Yes, you do need to sync the carbs. They may be OK, but if not, that will absolutely cause the hammering. BUT, as others have said, 60 MPH is on the absolute low end of what you should be at when doing a top-gear roll on! Get those RPM over 3,000 before you do that, and the bike will be much happier.
  19. V7Goose
    Yeah, I found out about the toll road when I hit the first damn toll booth!! What I got to say about toll roads can not be printed in a family site, so I'll just say that out west we HANG people for suggesting a toll road - damn commie plot! Anyway, I am in Beckley, WV tonight. Did 900 miles yesterday, and close to 600 today. That should make an easy ride in tomorrow morning. See y'all there, Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Well, made the 900 mile run today to my brother's place in North Georgia. I see that although there was mention in another thread about several folks riding up from NC and Virginia, we don't have any responses here. I guess I'll just make my way north as I can after I pick up the pipes tomorrow. See y'all there when I get there. Ride safe, Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Well, a lot of it depends on how you ride, as well as other things like the temperature of the fuel when you fill up. But frankly, that sounds about right for an RSV to me. I can get over 40 on either of mine if I am having fun in the mountains with a lot of speeds below 50 MPH, but normal riding keeps me between 36 and 38 MPG. And that is the same on my 05 AND my 07. And when my brother and I tour together (he has an 07 RSV), we tend to get exactly the same mileage - up at slower speeds and down when cooking along around 80. Steep grades and acceleration don't seem to hurt the gas mileage too much on these bikes, but the wind resistance at speed is a killer. And don't forget that with only a 6 gallon tank, it doesn't take much variation in how full you get it to change the gas mileage on the tank. With less than 1,000 miles on the bike, you haven't really had enough time to give it a fair measurement! Goose Oops, my bad - I just noticed you have an RSTD, so you don't even have a 6 gallon tank! I'd bet your actual mileage hasn't really changed at all. Just my thoughts. Ride Safe!
  22. V7Goose
    Well, I don't know yet how far I am going to get on Thursday. After I pick up my new pipes from RoadWarrior near Charlotte in the afternoon, I'll just head north a while looking for a place to pitch my tent for the night or a cheap motel room. I may make it to the Virginia border, but don't really know for sure. I can give people a call Thursday afternoon to try and coordinate a meeting place and time. Or you can call me. Cell phone is (censored). Ride safe, Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Well, it looks like I'll be coming up I77 from Charlotte on Friday. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I thought it was pretty obvious that the motorcycle video had major sound problems - you can even hear the voices breaking up. Seems really dumb for them to use that on their web site - makes me wonder about the overall intelligence of the company. And even if it was good recording, what the hell is the point of watching someone ride a prototype bike around and around a parking lot????? They lost my interest quick. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Since you asked . . . I have found through pretty extensive testing and comparison that the RSV (BOTH of mine) handle poorly when the tires are overinflated. And "overinflated" is a relative term, as the proper pressure will change depending on the specific tire brand and current load; that is why Yamaha has different recommended pressures for solo and loaded. You can read some more of my comments in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23168&highlight=pressure Anyway, the biggest problem I find with overinflated tires on the RSV is that it feels skittish in long sweepers when the road surface is even a little rough or has a few bumps. With the Venoms, this is very pronounced for me when I am fully loaded and running 50 lbs in the rear. Dropping the pressure to 48 lbs completely solves that. When running solo and empty I don't notice any big problems at 48 lbs, but prefer to run between 44 and 46. But I am a big guy, weighing about 250, and I always have another 10 lbs or so of tools and crap in the saddlebag. One final comment - I suspect the few people who have found they do NOT like the feel of the Avon tires may have caused the problem themselves by running too much air in them. No matter what I or others say, the best thing you can do is experiment yourself, starting with the vendor's recommended pressure (and check on what BOTH the bike manufacturer and the tire manufacturer recommend). Goose
×
×
  • Create New...