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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    No, it wasn't me - don't wanna take someone else's glory. SylWoody - you can ALWAYS give a public thanx to any member who helped you out. Please fill free to share their name or handle! And thanx for letting us know it is fixed. Glad you got it working. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    That is an extraordinarily strange comparison. In fact, there is absolutely NO connection between the two. First of all, NO airplanes are ever deliberately made louder by ANYONE, let alone inconsiderate people who only care about making a point of how little they care for the rights of others. In fact, every effort is made to make ALL airplanes as quiet as possible while still achieving their intended purpose. Second, federal laws force all planes in built-up areas to conform to often strange flight plans designed for nothing else but noise abatement. With minor exceptions, all airports were initially built where they did not cause noise problems for existing land owners. When stupid people decide to buy land and build in existing flight paths, they have no right at all to complain about the airplane noise from the airport that was there first. This is equally true about stupid people who build near a race track or existing gun range. All of this is totally different from inconsiderate people who make their bikes loud simply because they want to annoy other people and make them look. Those of us who value our rights do not have any way of avoiding those people who get their kicks out of knowing how much they bother others. The ONLY way a comparison with a plane could ever be accurate is if you can point to one where the pilot deliberately flew low and close to unsuspecting people on the ground. And in that case, I would condemn the pilot just as loud. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Admin password to WHAT? Router? PC? MAC? Browser? Media Player? etc. etc. Can't help without the facts, Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Loud bikes are an abomination. Noise pollution is an intrusion on the rights of others. I think the stock sound of an RSV is just absolutely perfect. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    The RSV has tons of power, but the power curve is very different than a big twin - if you ride it like you ride your HD, you will think it is a dog. Keep the revs up when you are accelerating. You can cruise all day in 5th, even down to 35 MPH in normal traffic, but you cannot roll the throttle on much at those speeds unless you kick it down. If you want to step out quickly from 40 MPH, use 3rd. We all wish the bike came with a tach, but the engine has a rev limiter, so you can never hurt it by pushing the RPM (and 3rd gear will take it all the way to 97 MPH before you hit that limiter at 6,500 RPM). And adding a tach is easy. Of course no one spends all their time at the top end of the revs, but you need to use it sometimes. If you are running at 65 or so and need to pass a couple of semis in a hurry, kicking it down to 3rd will provide a real rush! Goose BTW - the vast majority of comfort comments I have seen over the years that have a direct comparison of the RSV comfort (for BOTH rider and passenger) against the wing and the HD have all rated the RSV significantly more comfortable than the other two.
  6. V7Goose
    A hot-mic intercom NEVER mutes the radio - it would be an unbelievably irritating feature, as any ambient noise (even breathing on the mic or wind gusts on a motorcycle) would be CONSTANTLY muting the radio! It is conceivable that one could be designed with a mic sensitivity control in a weak effort to reduce the irritation, but I have never encountered such a system - even as an avionics technician in the Air Force. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    This is not accurate on an RSV - the IC does not mute anything. The CB radio will mute the main radio, but the IC does not. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    The stock intercom works on the Hot-Mic principle where both mics are always open. One quirk is that it only works if at least ONE of the radios are on. The volume of the IC is completely independent of either radio. The volume of the radio can be turned to zero, but if both radios are turned off, the IC is dead. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    There is a master fuse - it is behind the panel just rear of the main fuse box on the left side - you need to remove the passenger floor board to access it. If the main fuse is good, then remove and clean the battery connections - scrape the mating surfaces of both the wire terminals and the battery posts with a knife to make sure they are clean - they can develop a hard glass-like coating that blocks the connection. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    I do not know how you tested compression, but your numbers are totally unacceptable. The difference between the cylinders is not excessive, but 140 lbs is WAY TOO LOW. For the 2ng gen engine, 185 psi is MINIMUM, standard compression is 216 psi. Properly checking compression requires the engine to be warm, all spark plugs out, and the throttle held wide open. Not doing ALL of those things will yield much lower numbers. As for checking the new mystery carbs - Start by making sure you did not get a set of California carbs - these have a couple of extra vents you will need to deal with. At a minimum you need to remove all the jets and clean them with spray cleaner. I personally recommend only using Gumout Brand spray cleaner - some others have proven to do significant rubber damage. Also spray some cleaner through all the passages, followed by compressed air. While the jets are out, verify they are all stock sizes and in the right position (there are three different main jet sizes, so do NOT mix them up). In my opinion, any changes in jet sizes on this engine are ALWAYS folly, so if someone has been screwing around there, consider buying new jets. Remove the diaphragms and inspect carefully for even pinhole leaks, and don't forget to do the coasting enrichment diaphragms too. While you have the slides out, you will want to check the proper needle position - probably compare with one of your old carbs. Some owners just cannot resist screwing things up by modifying things they simply do not understand! Make sure the o-ring is properly seated on the air passage when putting the cap back on - this is critical. Make sure the choke plungers are clean and operating evenly and smoothly. Inspect the float valve needle tips and o-rings. Properly set float levels. Check/set the throttle positioning sensor. Set all air mixture screws to 4 turns out, then adjust for max RPM after the bike is warmed up and running properly. When you put the carbs back on, be absolutely certain your vent/overflow hoses are routed correctly to the front of the air intakes - the vents are absolutely critical for proper operation of CV carbs, so the hoses must not be crimped or kinked, and the openings must be in a protected position. When checking the air mixture screw settings after all is back together, the first step is to slowly screw each one IN to listen for the RPM drop - this will prove that the pilot circuit is open and functioning, then slowly screw out until RPM peaks. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I do not believe in using it above the highest concentrated dose from the label - I do not believe it does anything more at higher doses; therefore, it is a complete waste of money. But that said, I have seen others use it at very high concentrations, and I have never seen a fouled plug as a result. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I have no idea what bike you have, but 14K is not past the spec for valve check - that is due at 26K on a 2nd gen. As for the need for plugs - those are scheduled to be changed every 8,000 miles; however, I personally think that is too often. Never hurts to have new plugs, but I do not find any reason to change them on my RSV more often that every 24,000 or so. As for the often repeated idea that Seafoam fouls plugs - that is not true IN MY EXPERIENCE. Others may have seen this, but I never have - and I have worked on LOTS of these bikes for folks! And I do use and recommend Seafoam regularly. Certainly plugs are one of the easiest and first things you should change if you are fighting ignition or smooth running problems, but don't think it is required just because you used Seafoam. So like I said, new plugs never hurt, but just know that not everyone thinks there is any reason to change them after using Seafoam. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    I am sorry to hear that you are having those problems - the dealer you referenced in your post is not only incompetent, but an absolute fool to boot! The types of problems you mention are generally fairly easy to diagnose and fix for anyone with the appropriate knowledge and skills (and proper tools, of course). But they can be a real bugger for the average joe, and remote diagnostics can be a hair-pulling experience for both parties. I hope you can find a competent person locally to help you fix it... Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I periodically get questions and see new threads on the various tire subjects, and the choice of front tire size is still a common subject. This old thread from 2008 still covers a lot of that information fine, but was rarely being seen due to the advanced age. for that reason, I am making it a sticky in the 2nd gen tech section. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Just as one last attempt at clarity, this thread is about a UTAH state road - clearly identified in the title of the first post. By definition, if you are riding on a Utah state highway, it is impossible for you to be anywhere but in the state of Utah. Therefore, if you find yourself enjoying any road in another state, no mater what the route numbers are, you are NOT on Utah Route 12. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Lots of possibilities - you should do a fair bit of reading here, starting with threads that deal with performance and shift points. If you are not already very familiar with this engine, you probably are not riding it correctly - keep the revs up; do not shift too soon. The engine has a rev limiter on it, so you cannot possible hurt it by pushing the RPM, and that is what you need to do to learn where the power curve is - hit it hard on the freeway in 2nd gear till you feel the engine falter (that is the rev limiter at 6,500 RPM), then hit third and try it again. I doubt you will reach the limiter there before you back off - it won't hit in 3rd until 96 MPH. If you try to push the engine hard below 3,000 RPM, it will hammer and shake from being lugged. Do not try to accelerate even moderately fast in 5th gear unless you are at 65 MPH or higher already. Other standard things that will affect how smoothly it runs are carb sync and jets being clean. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Yup, those are absolutely different route 12s - no place to pop out looking over the Pacific Ocean in Utah! Goose
  18. V7Goose
    No side trip - this was just UT12 all the way from Capital Reef, south over Boulder Mountain, then down along the north side of the Grand Staircase. It is a great road. I'm sure there are tons of wonderful side roads, but on our last trip we hit this in a grand loop from St. George, north around to Capital Reef, back down to Bryce Canyon, then up over the beautiful 10,000 foot mountains at Cedar Breaks and back into St. George. That is a long day's ride, but worth every mile. But it sure doesn't leave much time to explore side roads! Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Gee, I run off the road every 30 miles or so - I guess I was really lucky... I suppose there is no real point in trying to describe for someone some of the features that make this road really special to ride...
  20. V7Goose
    There is a stretch of this road that runs along the very spine of a ridge through some badlands (north of Escalante, I think) where they literally only cut off the bare minimum of the knife edge to allow an 8' wide two-lane road with NO shoulder and NO rails - there is a 1,000 foot drop on BOTH sides - if you get a flat here, you are dead. I was dieing to look at the scenery and drop-offs, but really did not dare to take my eyes off the road enough to enjoy it - I guess I could have slowed down more, but that was a trade off I didn't want to make (and I really wasn't running that fast!). If your tires are not in good condition on this stretch, you will really regret it. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    The road is phenomenal, and it is motorcycle friendly. But the tar snakes on Boulder Mountain demand GREAT respect - there are a lot of them, and many run parallel with the direction of travel. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    I hesitate to cast aspersions on your knowledge and past experience, but most of what you say just does not compute. The specification for this engine is to pump 50 Lbs pressure at 5,000 RPM hot (just going from memory), and it has no problems hitting that - proving that the oil pressure relief setting must be above 50. The ONLY time the pressure is below 10 lbs is when the engine is idling hot, with the oil up to full temp. In this situation, the factors contributing to the low pressure have absolutely nothing to do with any relief valve - it is purely a combination of oil viscosity, bearing clearances, and total number of bearings when combined with pump capacity. Furthermore, the 5-year, unlimited miles warranty, combined with the complete lack of reported problems of engine wear below 300,000+ miles virtually proves that the oiling and cooling capacities of this engine are just fine as manufactured. I will take this opportunity to note that the engine idle spec for this engine is 950-1050 RPM. Although I prefer the way the engine idles down around 700, I firmly believe the spec of 950 is related to the hot idle pressure, so That is the lowest I set.. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Here is the full section from the Alternative Parts post in the tech library. The last paragraph gives you details on the part numbers and specifies the only pump with a positive shutoff. The positive shutoff is not necessary, but I strongly urge anyone who uses a pump that flows gas with the key off to make sure they get in the habit of turning the fuel OFF when the engine is stopped. Goose Fuel Pump - Most external low pressure/low volume fuel pumps should work - stock pump has a 3 PSI rating and costs over $200. Look for a solid state pump sold for old VWs or jeeps. Here are a couple of links for replacement pumps under $50: Autozone 4-7 PSI NOTE: since this pump is double the pressure of the stock pump, I would not use it unless I could not find any other. Autozone 2-3 1/2 PSI JCW 1 1/2-4 PSI JCW 1 1/2-3 1/2 PSI http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/42S/10002/-1 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...facetpumps.php Parts 40105 and 40171 https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...067330545&An=0 General note on available pumps - most (probably all) of these pumps are Facet brand fuel pumps, and the correct Facet part number is 42S (also goes by 40105). Facet has recently replaced their old cube pumps with new Posi-Flo pumps, and the correct part number for the Posi-Flo is 04S (also goes by 60104). Either part number may be preceded by "PRO" or "FEP". Also note that the 40171 pump is the ONLY one that has both a check valve and positive shutoff, so it would be the best choice for use on a motorcycle that does not have an automatic fuel shutoff when the engine is off (such as ours). All of the other pumps allow fuel to flow even when the power is off, so a leaking float valve could lead to engine damage if the petcock is left on.
  24. V7Goose
    Either your throttle cables are gummed up (any of the five cables), possibly your throttle linkages are gummed/fouled up (considering the age of your bike), or you have a vacuum leak between the vacuum motor under the right lower cowling and the vacuum servo under the left lower cowling. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    This is mostly normal - it comes from the crank case breather via the air plenum drain tubes, and I have covered it in great detail in several of my older threads. A couple of quick points - if you overfill the crankcase, it will do it much more. But any 2nd gen will show this after several days of hard long riding, even with the perfect amount of oil. Over time, you will also tend to see lots of oily dirt collecting around the #1 carb - it is from the same source, and it caused primarily by a design flaw in the placement of the drain in the left plenum. Goose
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