Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Except that the CR-V stays strictly front wheel drive until it senses wheel slip, so rarely any AWD penalty.
  2. V7Goose
    Motorcycles make more sense that autos and trucks. My wife's main vehicle has always been a big Jaguar XJ8 (I'll admit that I love it too!). But now that we are moving to a small mountain town in New Mexico, I just do not trust ever finding a qualified Jaguar mechanic there. I do just about all my own work on the Jag, just like the bikes, but there are some complicated things on that vehicle that I have no experience with, so I would really want a shop I could trust. We agreed to sell the Jag here in the Fort Worth area and buy a sensible Japanese compact all-wheel-drive for the mountains. So far, so good, but that is where it started getting weird for me. The Jaguar XJ8 is a big 4-door luxury sedan with a 300HP V8 engine - it has enough power that it is sometimes hard to drive it in a sedate way! And this big car gets 32 MPG on the highway! I have absolutely no problems making the entire 600 mile trip from here to Ruidoso on one 19 gallon tank, even when driving a steady 80 miles an hour most of the way. Now the Honda CR-V I just bought today is only rated for highway mileage of 26 MPG, and most of us have learned to never expect to even reach the posted EPA numbers. So what the heck is wrong with the world when a big luxury car with a great V8 engine gets so much better fuel economy than a standard Japanese vehicle with a small to mid size 4 cylinder? That little CR-V seems like a great little vehicle, but I'm betting I'll curse the mediocre fuel economy for years to come. Goose Anybody wanna buy a big beautiful Jag with GREAT fuel mileage?
  3. V7Goose
    I suspect you may be riding a Harley... Check the tank badge. ;-) Goose But in a slightly more serious tone, the idea about the pilot jets is probably right on the money. At those low RPM/slight throttle settings, the pilot jets are still providing at least 50% of the fuel, so one being even partly plugged will cause a significant imbalance in the engine. It is totally different than carb sync problems, but the results are identical. Carb sync does nothing more than measure the throttle opening, and the results will be the same even if there is no fuel getting through at all. The shaking is just caused by one or more cylinders not producing the same power as the others, no matter what the reason.
  4. V7Goose
    I think the ray-gun on the front is a nice touch - finally a great way to deal with the cagers. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    It's all covered. Just read the warranty. If a dealer tries to welch on it, hand him a copy and ask him to point out the exclusion. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Yup, there'll be pix and more info down the road once we get settled in - heck, we're not even supposed to close until November 1, so still lots to do before we can even say for sure we own it. But it is a full package - house, huge shop with guest quarters (unfinished at the moment), Horse barn, and 20 acres of land. I'll finally have the shop I need to do some decent motorcycle work (but probably a lot fewer customers). The thing I miss most from the western states is the public land and open space - I'm really tired of all the fences and 'keep out' attitude here in Texas! I lived in New Mexico back in the 70s, and I look forward to going back. It is no Arizona, but still a very nice state with a lot going for it. The southern mountains are beautiful and only a day's ride from my kids here in Texas. We'll have plenty of camping space, and maybe even a guest bed or two for friends heading through the area. And when you are riding across the southwest in the summer, the Capitan mountains DEFINITELY provide a nice break from the heat! The only drawback is that it is a long way from any reasonable international airport for our non-motorcycle travels. But I guess there have to be some tradeoffs in everything. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Looks like we will be blowing the dust off this Yuppyville North Texas area and heading for Ruidoso, NM. We have a contract pending on a nice chunk of property in the mountains, and if all goes well, we'll be heading out by November 1. Looking forward to some cooler temperatures! The next challenge is gonna be to sell this place in Texas. Been retired for a couple of years, and the DFW area just isn't our idea of a nice place to relax. Haven't had any luck finding the right kinda place down in the Texas Hill Country, so we decided to change venues all together. The new place in the mountains has a great big shop and lots of land, so maybe we'll see some of you out there! Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Do NOT buy the bike without test riding it, and do not just dismiss the possibility of the engine noise problem - as stated earlier, SOME of these bikes have such a loud scream that the owners never quit wailing about it! I personally believe that many of the fairly recent low-mileage bikes that are being re-sold may be specifically because of a loud engine whine. So ride it and know for sure if you find that particular bike objectionable to you. The recall only affected the early 2007 production run - just have any Yamaha shop check the serial number to see if it is included - if it is, they should also have a record of if the service bulletin was ever performed for that bike. The shock is either good or bad - no in between. The problem is never the air - even bad shocks still hold air just fine. The problem is loss of the damping oil. The check is to simply get down on the ground and inspect the bottom shock mount - it should be 100% TOTALLY dry. This means NO old oily dirt layers or anything - dry road dirt is fine, of course, but NO crusty oily covering on the shock mounts or bottom of of the boot. There are a couple of vent lines near the shock on the left side, but they NEVER get any oil residue on the shock, so do not let anyone BS you on that - if there is ANY SIGN OF OIL on the bottom of the shock, you are looking at about a $700 repair. Very common for the clutch on this bike to start slipping by 40,000 miles - not a problem at all, and not an abused bike. The fix is simply an $80 upgraded spring from PCW Racing - takes only 30 minutes and no skill at all to replace it. Most scheduled maintenance on this bike is not too bad, but the valves are supposed to be adjusted at 27,700 miles, and that is a BIG job - typically about $600. So if the miles are anything over 27,000, ask for proof that it has been done or use it to knock off more $$ from the selling price. Lastly, make sure the bike does NOT have Brickstone tires on it - you will find lots about that here in older posts, but suffice it to say it will handle like a fat pig on three legs at low speed with the stock Brickstone tires. The fix is simply any other tire. There is a lot more that we could tell you, but nothing to worry about when looking to buy one. Good luck, Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Good to hear, Matt. I don't know what a "vacuum chamber" is, but it is clear that you found the problem and got it fixed. I'm glad for that. Be careful with that service manual - there are LOTS of errors in it (some real significant). It is a great tool to have, but I do suggest you read all you can find on this site about any particular service procedure before just diving in with that manual. I hope you took the time to properly set the float levels while you were in there. We haven't discussed this for a while on the site, so for the benefit of the newer members, I'll mention it here - 100% of these bikes come from the factory with the floats set WAY too high. I do not know why, but my statement is based on the difference between the actual setting and the shop manual spec. Having the floats too high generally results in an overly rich mixture at speed. The idle mixture can still be set correctly with the screws, but you would need to lower the slide needle to compensate for it at high RPM. After setting the floats properly, the average bike seems to get about a 10% improvement in MPG. Ride safe, Goose
  10. V7Goose
    You do have a problem with your brand new bike, wether you want to admit it or not. And it is not uncommon with sloppy setup work at the average dealer. As far as agreeing with me - you are free to agree with whomever you want. In my opinion, out of the two opinions you are evaluating (me and the "other guy" who has a problem and doesn't care to fix it - well, one of us don't know squat. I cannot elaborate on what I think of the "other guy's" approach 'cause all I do is insult people when I talk plainly. I will say that disabling the AIS is one of the most extraordinarily UN-intelligent things I have seen done to these bikes. Those who do it without understanding what is going on are just making a poor shade-tree mechanic decision. But if they have found all the information on this subject that is available on this site and STILL make that decision . . . well, let's just say I would be deliberately insulting them if I finished that thought. And if your engine is leaking, parking over a rug hides the puddle. But only a fool would think they were "fixing" the problem. On a new bike there are only a couple of things that will typically cause this problem. Many of them have an exhaust leak at the Y pipe - this was especially common in 05 and 06. The pipes are crimped, not welded, and the crimp leaves two large gaps that can suck in fresh air. When this problem is present, you will typically see a gray film on the chrome heat shields of the lower pipe right around the Y joint. The film wipes off easily, so you won't see it if you have recently washed the bike. You can usually even feel the exhaust pulses with your hand if you hold it behind the Y joint. The fix for this problem is warranty replacement of the Y joint. Other typical causes are any vacuum leak, carbs not in sync, and incorrectly set mixture screws. Irridium plugs won't do anything for you. In my opinion, they are a complete waste of money UNLESS your only goal is to not change them for 50k-100K miles. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    No, the AIS cannot affect how the bike runs in any way. Its sole function is to simply allow fresh air into the header pipes when conditions are right to reduce unburned hydrocarbon emissions without causing exhaust problems. Think of it this way - it is the functional equivalent of a street sweeper walking behind a horse in a parade. If the sweeper is drunk and sick, it makes no difference to the horse at all. Of course the marching band coming along next won't particularly appreciate the horse apples, but the horse still does not care. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I would be VERY suspicious of those readings - even if all the caps are good, they would almost certainly not read identical resistance - generally they will be somewhere around 9K, but that can vary by as much as 20%. I suggest you check your meter against a know good value. You did measure them off the wire, right? You also mentioned that you had taken the caps apart to clean them - I hope you did NOT try to clean the resistor in any way! Those are a thin film resistor on a ceramic core, and even the lightest rubbing will destroy them. A plug cap that measures 12K - 14K is bad, but generally will run OK. Any cap that reads 20K is total trash (unless internal cleaning can bring it back down to 10K, of course). I will also mention here that you CANNOT measure the secondary coil resistance as shown in the shop manual - that is just one of the meany errors in that book. The coil is completely isolated from ground. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    This information could not be more wrong. Popping or afterfire on this engine is ALWAYS caused by either something wrong with the fuel mixture or combustion process, or an exhaust leak. The AIS NEVER causes this problem. It is true that disabling the AIS can HIDE an existing combustion problem, but it dos not SOLVE it. As I have sated in MANY older threads discussing this problem in great detail, the 2nd gen bikes will NEVER pop or bang on decel in totally stock trim UNLESS there is a problem that needs to be fixed. Disabling the AIS is not fixing anything, it is simply hiding an existing problem because you do not want to be reminded it is there. In this particular case, disabling the AIS cannot ever have any affect whatsoever on the combustion process (is is simply air induction into the exhaust), so it will have no effect at all on the fouled plug. It MAY stop the banging, and it may simply allow the unburned fuel to build up to the point where an explosion splits the muffler. My recommendation is that you always find and fix an existing problem instead of just finding a way to stick your head in the sand. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    A black plug like that is either running extraordinarily rich or the plug is just barely firing. A super rich jug on this engine is not common, but could be caused by a choke plunger stuck all the way out or something really odd like a pilot jet falling out. A stuck float, maybe, but that should also cause lots of gas to flood down the inside of one of the front lower fairings. The only engine problem that could cause that is oil fouling or possible total loss of compression - either would be generating massive amounts of white smoke on the right side at all times. The fact that it is black is proof that there is SOME spark, otherwise there would be no soot. A normal burn is hot enouugh to co9mpletely consume all fuel and not leave any soot. A very weak spark might be unable to consistently burn all the available fuel, much like having way too much fuel. Most likely cause on this engine would be a high resistance plug cap. Did you check that? Anything over 10K is bad. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Based on what I read here, and the fact that you do get heat out of the right side, I'd bet you have plugged pilot jets. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    As you probably understand, Constant Velocity carbs operate on totally different principles than direct linked carbs where the the slides are operated by cables or rods. In a CV carb, the slide is moved by the difference in pressure on each side of the diaphragm. Because of this, the condition of all air passages, o-rings, and vent hoses is critical. I do not know a lot about the specifics of those antique Ventures, so I will simply speak in generalities. All of the ideas offered here are valid potential causes of poor performance in CV carbs. In addition, you should verify that your jets are the correct size, the slide needles are not worn or installed wrong, and most importantly, the carb vent hoses are installed/routed correctly and NOT kinked. Remove each vent hose and blow through it to verify no insects or foreign matter has clogged the line. On a CV carb, the position of the vent opening in a protected place is critical. In addition, there should be an o-ring on an air passage under the slide cap that allows atmospheric air pressure to reach the bottom of the diaphragm - those o-rings must be in good condition and properly installed. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I mostly agree with the use of car tires on any three wheeled vehicle. Certainly the dangers and unpleasantness caused by the improper handling are gone when the bike no longer needs to lean in turns - even the rare flexi-hacks that still lean have different control geometries and more rubber on the ground. BUT, if the vehicle is equipped with motorcycle rims, then there is still the issue of incorrect rim size for ANY car tire. Motorcycle rims and car rims are just plain different sizes and configurations. This is why so many car tires need to be inflated to very dangerous high pressures to bead up. When extraordinary pressure is needed to seat the tire, you risk dangerous damage to the tire casing, which can result in riding on a time bomb just waiting for an unnecessary failure. So, a car tire in any position on a three wheeled vehicle is good IF the rim is specifically designed for mounting a car tire. But I personally believe that mounting any car tire on any motorcycle rim is just a bad idea, and anyone who chooses to do so needs to be fully aware of all the issues around that decision. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Just so you do not waste any time playing with one key or the other when trying to find the cause - the key you use has absolutely NOTHING to do with it. You could possibly have a bad ignition switch (but I doubt it); however, the lock part and the switch part are completely separate. It is totally and completely impossible for any key to affect the operation of the switch. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    He said his bike won't start. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Start by opening the drain on one carb to see if you get a lot of fuel (a full float bowl will drain for 5-10 seconds with a steady stream, depending on how far you open the screw). After closing the drain, turn on your key and listen for the fuel pump to click rapidly for about 5 seconds. If no clicking, you have a bad pump. If it clicks rapidly for five seconds and does not slow down, cycle the key off and back on - if it clicks for another five seconds without slowing down, you have a fuel supply problem - most likely the fuel filter, but could be intake screen in the tank, too. If your filter is clean, you can just bypass the pump and ride the bike on gravity feed until you replace it. This is coved in detail in many other threads. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    They are either unbelievably stupid or bald faced liars. I fill out my USPS fixed rate shipping labels on-line and not only get a DISCOUNT on the fixed price shipping, but FREE shipping notification, status tracking, and delivery confirmation! And by paying for the under $5 postage online and printing my own shipping label (plus using their FREE box), I do not even have to waste my time at the post office counter - just drop off the box and go. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Theoretically that might be possible, but in reality l think not. Those are the air mixture screws located under each Carb near the drain screw. It is highly unlikely that they have moved on their own, but I have seen it happen if they have been set improperly. If the anti-tamper caps are still on them, I wouldn't worry about them at all. If the caps are off, then screw each in until it gently bottoms, then out three turns. From your description, I'd still bet good money that it is a hung-up choke. Fully pull the knob in and out a couple of times to make sure it is moving smoothly, then look at each plunger to be sure it has fully seated. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Check your choke - make sure it is all the way in and none of the plungers are hung up. Really plugged air filters can also cause those symptoms, but that will generally cause the engine to dog real bad at higher RPMs. Also make sure none of the low speed mixture screws are working their way out. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Under $200 to check the valves on a Venture is a great price - I do not know what the book rate is for this job, but I feel certain there is absolutely no way anyone could do the job in less than 4 hours - six is much more likely. I have not seen a shop charging less than $80/hour for labor in a long time, but even at $75/hour, four hours = $300. If they do a good job for $175, you should consider yourself very fortunate. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    I cannot tell from your description if you have a problem or not - you really have not provided enough information to troubleshoot. Ordinarily you will never hear the fuel pump unless the bike has been sitting at least overnight, so not hearing it after the engine died is totally normal unless you know there is no fuel in the carbs. Yes, there is a fuel pump relay - it is in the same unit that houses the starter cutout relay and several diodes that isolate the neutral and side stand switches. Problems with that relay are exceedingly rare. Goose
×
×
  • Create New...