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KenP

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Everything posted by KenP

  1. KenP
    I just turned in a 1 year old PC680 under warranty. I had been using a Schumacher charger, which is the same manufacturer that Odyssey sells on their website. Charged it at the 6A rate per the manual. Funny thing is that it would indicate fully charged, show 12.8V when you hooked up a voltmeter to it, but when you hit the start button, it would fall below 10V. Even my Argus battery bug would show 14.2-14.5v when it was running down the road. The factory is supposed to get back to me on the reason for the failure, but like Squidley said, they can fail quickly sometimes.
  2. KenP
    When I got my '84 VR a few years back, the Avon Venom's that were on it were cupped. Found out, through this site, that if you run the cold psi on the sidewall then they don't cup. Replaced the Venom's with Dunlop E3's, run them at the sidewall cold psi, and after 3000 miles, no noticeable cupping issues so far....
  3. KenP
    I put in an Odyssey PC680 Battery, (some like the DEKA which works well also), a new R/R, and a 4 brush V-Max starter which I found on FleaBay below. Hasn't given me a problem since.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400169818123&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Dingy's mod works well also, if you want to hang on to the current starter....Ken
  4. KenP
    I put an Odyssey PC680 battery, larger cables and a 4 brush VMax starter which I found on flea bay and have not had a problem since.... link to the starter on ebay below. Ken http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400169818123&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
  5. KenP
    Same as Condor....1984 model with an 83VIN# and an 88 motor...
  6. KenP
    All, Appreciate the responses....will go with it!!
  7. KenP
    My rear Avon Venom is about shot, and I came across the Dunlop MU90 for a better price. I just want to make sure that the correct size is an MU90B16 78H, part # 4079-95, to fit my MK I 84 VR. Comments about those of you currently using this tire appreciated....
  8. KenP
    What kind of backrest are you using?
  9. KenP
    Brian, Thanks for the tip. That one piece on the front part of the bike below the radiator was the one that literally crumbled into pieces. Believe I can use plastex and aluminum tape to repair the lower fwd fairings. Got a piece of aluminum for the false tank cover.
  10. KenP
    What are you guys doing about repairing/replacing the lower 2 fwd fairings due to crumbling ABS plastic? Mine are in pretty bad shape, and actually are beginnning to crumble at both attach points and, in the case of the lower fwd piece in front of the exhaust, it literally crumbled into several pieces. Did a search on some of the usual parts sites, but they are pretty expensive. Any ideas?
  11. KenP
    Marcarl, Sure does!! Photos helped a lot. Thanks... Ken
  12. KenP
    I'll give the oversized washer a try first (metal vs. plastic) then work on some type of ABS fix later. The good news is that it didn't move with the duct tape on the way back!!
  13. KenP
    So, there I was today riding over to one of my favorite BBQ joints on one of the Texas Farm-to-Market roads doing 70, when I get a face-full of my '83 VR false tank cover. Managed to grab it before it went sailing, and apparently the small ABS "tab" under the gas tank filler cap had failed. It had vibrated forward until it became un-clipped from the front attach point. Good thing I had a roll of duct tape in the saddlebag. Does anyone happen to have a good "permanent" fix for that little sucker??
  14. KenP
    I'll let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. Good test of one's patience!!
  15. KenP
    I have followed the procedure on my 1983 Venture Royale regarding the brake bleeding sequence, but still have a "soft" pedal. I am getting some rear braking, but not very much. I did the sequence as follows: 1. Meter Valve bleed. 2. Front left caliper. 3. Front left Anti-Dive. 4. Rear caliper. I made absolutely sure the master cylinder was near full, repeated the above sequence 3 times, and still have soft braking, despite seeing clean fluid and no air bubbles through the bleeders. Rode around the neighborhood and applied the brakes numerous times. Had to use the front right caliper to do any meaningful stopping. Can any of you guys that have more "grey hair" than I do after doing this convoluted procedure chime in and let me know what I am doing wrong?
  16. KenP
    If it had been similar to the older model, then I would agree with you MasterGuns. However, these new ones are series controlled, rather than the old shunt type. They run much cooler, and is a 50A rated device. The old shunt types consumed more energy than the bike was using, therefore dumped a LOT into the heatsink, which would literally burn your hand if you touched it. The only exception I am aware of is IF you had lots of powered stuff on your bike (heated vests, grips, XMAS lights, etc.), then it wouldn't be as hot as the load would be higher, therefore it would shunt less 'trons' and actually run cooler. The newer types have extremely low resistance while in a conducting state, which results in a significantly lower dissipated power. Last I looked the ABS melting temp was above 185 degrees F, so if I note that it starts to warp, then I might look at relocating it somewhere else. Also, the ram air will circulate through the fairing since I removed that old ducting, so hopefully that will help. Of course, after a 3 day ride and my R/R has melted through the bottom of my fairing, because I thought I was smarter than the Laws of Physics, then I will change my tune. I will not, however, ever admit to it !!
  17. KenP
    Today I removed the old R/R and replaced it with the newer Shindengen Mosfet R/R (www.roadstercycle.com) . The only modification I made is to put it on the left upper side of the fairing, rather than the original location below the left footrest. I removed the old tuner and cassette tape from the left fairing, and will form a lockable storage box from ABS black textured plastic in its place and use the original lockable Yamaha lid and form a piece of ABS plastic to cover the old holes. (Thanks to SaltyDog in AR for the detailed help and description on his modification.) I have attached a couple of photos showing the old/new Regulator Rectifier, and also a picture of the location of the new R/R. The original connector plugs to the stator were pretty nasty, so I cut it off, soldered the wires from the new R/R (yellow wires in photo) to the white stator wires, then put heat shrink tubing on them for good measure. Couple that with an Odyssey PC680MJ gel battery, along with an Argus "Battery Bug" and I am livin' life in "high cotton."
  18. KenP
    I have a 1300cc engine in my '83. My temp gauge tends to run about the 3 o'clock position while cruising, but when I stop it goes to about a needle width below the red. I have only had this bike about a month, so still working out small issues. The fluid looks fresh and the radiator is full. First, is the gauge anwhere near accurate? The fan does work, and I can hear it when I slow down or stop, so that's a plus. I haven't pulled the thermostat yet, as I wanted to find out if any of you had similar experiences before I go there. Thx.....
  19. KenP
    Thanks Condor....based on your above, I have a "D" and my choke rotates, therefore I am a "confused" Venture owner!!
  20. KenP
    I used the above link you gave me an it comes up as a 1983....
  21. KenP
    Yeah, I thought the same, but the safety inspection, Progressive Insurance and the TX DMV all came back with an 83 model via the VIN.
  22. KenP
    Thanks Squidley...sent you a PM. Ken
  23. KenP
    Guys...thanks for the tips. I do have the 83-85 shop manual and have looked through that regarding cruise control. I'll try some of the suggestions this weekend to see if it will work. The date of manufacturer on the plate was 11/83, so technically I suppose it could be considered an "84." When you put in the VIN # though, it comes up in the database as an 83 model. Not sure how Yamaha marketed their bikes back then.
  24. KenP
    Recently acquired this bike (83 model) and have only ridden for about a week. I noted today that the cruise control will not engage. Could not find anything wrong with the fuses. I have not troubleshot beyond that. Any suggestions, or do I need to take it to a Yamaha tech?
  25. KenP
    I rode in 3 MS150 events starting in 2007 as a cyclist, my last one being in 2009. I just hit 50 and it simply took too many Motrin to get rid of the soreness after 150 miles! The volunteer motorcycle riders and their support group were "top shelf" and were greatly appreciated for not only keeping the cyclists safe, but there to help out with any maintenance or first aid issues. Tippin' my hat to you all who take time out of your personal lives to give back...
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