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KenP

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Everything posted by KenP

  1. 1. A lot of us use Sky_Doc (Earl Harrell) on this website. He has a motorcycle shop in PA, and offers VR members a good deal, plus he knows these bikes inside and out. 2. Secondary, I use www.cheapcycleparts.com 3. Rick Butler @ www.buckeyeperformance.com That is the lineup I use, or have used...... Ken
  2. See this link under First Gen Tech Articles...... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489
  3. I second what Condor said. I replaced my old lead acid battery with a DEKA, new R/R and stator and haven't have a problem since.......Ken
  4. See below thread from one of the VR members...... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66227
  5. Concur!! I have a Shindengen Mosfet R/R, 4 gauge battery cables, DEKA battery, oversize aftermarket stator, and 4 brush V-max starter. Haven't had electrical / starting:080402gudl_prv: issues since doing those mods.....
  6. IF that was your original R/R, which is a "shunt type" be careful, because it dissipates a LOT of heat, which is why most of those older types are located on the frame where they can receive cooling airflow. I replaced my with a Shindengen Mosfet version, which is solid state, runs cool to the touch, and can be mounted on or near ABS plastic. I believe SkyDoc sells a replacement version. I've had mine for 3 years now, mounted in the upper left fairing where my tape deck/radio used to be (took it all out) and have never had a problem. My .02, FWIW. Ken
  7. KenP

    Fjr1300

    I have ridden both the FJR, and the Kawi Concours. My personal preference (based on the way it feels/fits me) is the Kawi. I like the fact that it has a 3 year mfrs. warranty, vs. the 1 year on the Yammi. You can get a 3 year extension (GTPP) beyond the original 3 year through the owner of a Kawi dealer in Richmond, VA for $399, 6 yrs. worth of no maintenance hassles/costs. The Kawasaki is the bike that I will be replacing my '84 VR with......eventually. They are both fine machines......after riding them both, I just prefer one over the other. FWIW......
  8. I recently listed my '84 for sale in the classifieds, and has been upgraded with a lot of the mods you are looking to do. Not sure if you wanted a newer model, but it is an option. Link below........ http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4022&title=1984-yamaha-vr-xvz12dl&cat=3
  9. Thanks guys, but he apparently sold it Saturday.......Ken
  10. Any VR member near Eau Claire, WI that could look @ a 1990 VR for me? Ken
  11. I replaced my original rotors on my 84' last year,which were shot, even after rotating them. Bought them from here: http://www.jcmotors.com/
  12. I did the same thing + a Deka AGM battery, larger battery cables, VMax 4 brush starter, and battery bug to monitor. Haven't had a problem since......Ken
  13. I got a Shindengen Mosfet similar to this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH012AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-/360358573656 I removed the radio and tape deck from the left fairing, and installed it there, rather than its original exposed location on the frame. They are not like the older ones that radiate enormous amounts of heat, but are solid state and run cool, so bolting it to ABS plastic isn't an issue.
  14. I'll take the calipers off, torque it and check the clearances. If that is OK, then I'll rehab the calipers.....
  15. Thanks for the tips.....those calipers are probably original and should be reworked. I do have new synthetic fluid in the lines and flushed the old fluid out last year. Looks like a have a new project...... Ken
  16. Recently I replaced both front rotors with EBC drilled ones, along with new brake pads. I noticed when I tighten the axle nut to the specified 72 ft/lbs. of torque, the wheel does not spin freely. I follow the order of tightening the different areas that the manual recommends. When I put the nut on hand tight, it does spin somewhat freely, but still binds, just less than when I tighten it down. I do have an upgraded fork brace installed. Braking all around is much improved over the stock rotors, however I am just concerned that the binding btwn the rotors and pads will do some damage. Anyone have experience with this issue??
  17. Correction.....4 gauge cables. You are correct!!
  18. I have one similar to yours, as well as a few of the others here. As you know, this site is INVALUABLE for tech info and great suggestions. One of the best ones I did to mine was upgrade the electrical system.....4 gauge battery cables, AGM battery, VMax 4 brush starter. I have had ZERO starter drag since doing those mods. Also added a "battery bug" to monitor it and the output has been pretty steady around 14v.
  19. In case you get bored during the winter and wanted to wow your friends with battery knowledge....see link below... http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm
  20. I bought this one from rareelectrical on E-bay. They advertised it as a 2 brush Vmax, but when I opened it up it turned out to be a 4 brush. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400169818123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  21. Try this... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489
  22. KenP

    SeaFoam

    Has anybody tried Chevron Techron Concentrate?? http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/additives/tcp.aspx
  23. Go to the First Gen Tech Library under Suspension, Tires, etc. There is a step by step process with photos. Just did my '84 with Progressives and it is a world of difference!!
  24. I have an Odyssey PC680, which by the way, I just replaced under warranty after 1 year's worth of use. No idea of why it failed, but it did. If I had to do it over again, I would go with the DEKA first, then the Odyssey. A couple of other things I found out is that a 4 Brush Vmax starter (or the "Dingy" starter mod) and some larger battery cables will make a big difference. No more starter "drag" after replacing those.
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