Razorback

What do you suggest for plug wires? Source? I also adjust my valves before putting the carbs on. I had to change every shim. Was able to reuse only 2 and buy 14 more.

Not sure I answered your question right. It sputters quickly and the tach drops about 300-ish rpm and recovers faster than the resulting road speed from the misfiring, or whatever is happening.

It drops pretty consistently with the missing. Bounces back up to where it was. It looks pretty accurate otherwise.

Don't knowing you've figured out anything it not, but when I found a couple if my carbs pouring out gas when they shouldn't, I found that I had at least 3 of 4 carb overflow/vent hoses clogged. I thought to check them when another fellow had mentioned that he had a flooding carb and found a pinched vent hose. My bike had set up for several years and dirt daubers had infested my hoses.

Currently don't have any decel popping, but will try another half turn out on the screws to improve the response.

Pull the spark plugs and verify the rich condition.

No. They appear to be original, with the caps. I suppose that would be good general maintenance to go with the new plugs, even though I think I had a bad new plug. I plan to check the resistance on the plug wires and caps later in the week when I have a chance. I plan to check coils as well.

I think i may have electrical gremlins. maybe TCI, maybe coils or wires. It really points to mis-fire. I won't get to start testing bits until about Thursday, but i thought i'd throw it out there. First, here's what i observe: Currently, starts easily with about 1/3 choke when cold. Starts instantly without choke when still warm or just previously ridden same day (within 4 hrs?). Idles smooth at 1000 rpm. Sounds and revs great (up to 3000 rpm, only because i see no need to go higher) sitting still. When i take off though, it's a different story. Above 2000-2200 rpm is has a miss that won't go away unless I let it loaf along at about 2000 rpms. Its not a dead miss, but intermittent, like it wants to go, but the spark is not there like it should be. I am also seeing it in the tach. That being said, I clipped the end of the cyl #2 plug wire and changed back to an old plug i had (due to similar issue in #2 below). That seemed to help initially, but it got progressively worse within a couple miles. I'd be glad to post a short video, if possible (never tried), to demonstrate. Status of bike and tune: 1. Carbs off multiple times, initially cleaned, new jet block gasket and o-rings supplied with kit, and float levels checked and set, until I figured out i was suffering from clogged vent hoses. Then starts, idles and revs good. 2. New plugs - although i found a "dead" one and swapped back in an old one. Cleared up a bad miss, similar to what I'm experiencing now, but it was hardly drivable. Made a world of difference. clipped that spark plug wire off and re-installed cap/boot. 3. Sync'd and double checked and rechecked after plug swap. Holding well. 4. mix screws at about 2-1/2 turns. has occasional minor lack of initial response to throttle twist only sitting still, like this morning - may need to continue tweaking mix screws. 5. Exhaust temps fairly consistent with each other. Checked with non-contact thermometer. 6. only running non-ethanol gas at the moment. 7. cleaned tank, new fuel filter and hoses. 8. checked & cleaned connectors in vicinity of rear shock damper/fuel pump. I did that because I also have a malfunctioning gear position indicator. It wants to indicate 4th gear more than anything. Neutral light still accurate though, don't know how they are related exactly. Any other suggestions (besides seafoam since i just cleaned everything and replaced filters and hoses?) I'm not against Seafoam at all, i know it works on carb issues, I'm just doubting pilot jet problems because of great idle quality and low speed quality. I also doubt emulsifier tube or larger orifices because i've been through them so recently and they have so much larger orifices to try and plug. But I'll dump some in the tank anyway. Thanks, Kenny

It seems anyone can get it usually next day, but no one stocks it that I can find. No biggie as we usually know more than one day in advance that na oil change will be required. btw, my NAPA filter also said made by WIX on the box, as expected

Did they have it in stock or have to order it?

Yep, the napa part number should be a dead giveaway. It also comes with 2 o-rings, except for the one I picked up today, small one missing so they re-ordered the filter.

Took it down the street for the 1st time in about 5 years. What a feeling, although I didn't get out of 2nd gear. I had lost my passion to ride, had an economical commuter car and just let the bike sit. Now I'm back in business now that the kids are old enough to stay by themselves while I take their momma out on a ride in the near future. I just have about 20 minor tweaks to do while finishing up.

Got more details on the tire changer?

I now understand why everything seemed ok with adjustments made off the bike, but back on the bike with all hoses on and I had problems with overflowing. I was running my bike and checking levels a minute ago and confirmed I have 2 to tweak again.

2 are where yours are, 2 others need tweaked.

Figured it out guys. After reading the shotgun method of carb cleaning (on the bike) I figured why the heck, I'll blow some compressed air through the main jet air bleed, which is where my overflow was coming from, not the pilot air #1 as I had previously mentioned. When I blew air into carb #3 main air bleed, I got fuel blowing out the main air bleed of the other 3 carbs. I scratched my head and said something doesn't seem right about that. I wondered why the pressure would be seen in all 3 carbs at the same time when they only share a common fuel source. For whatever reason, I remembered a thread where a guy had a clogged carb vent/overflow hose causing him problems. I pulled all of mine and they were all plugged. My bike has been down about 5 years. I only recently got back to working on it last fall, and my setback after goin through the carbs was I had one overflowing through the main air bleed. To think I missed a Meet and Eat and all fall riding weather due to clogged vent hoses. I blew them out, put them back on and no more overflowing of carbs. Weird, but I do recall that carb operation depends on some proper atmospheric pressure....somewhere Alas, I still have to pull them again to reset #3 & 4 fuel levels, but it cranked and sounded so good that I really don't mind. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

I banged on all 4 float bowls with a long dowel, turned on the key and have 3 of 4 pumping gas out the pilot air jet. I'll bang on them again and if no success, I'll pull them off for the 3rd time this weekend. I just don't know what I'll do after I get them off this time.

Sure did, I set a box next to my bike at approximately the same height as when the carbs are mounted, laid a 24" carpenter level across the top of the carbs (in 2 different directions) and shimmed the box until the carb was level. Then hooked the fuel line from the pump, turned on the key a couple times to make sure the bowl was full and checked and set levels. Edit: at least on the 2nd and 3rd times.

Bowl cover uses O-rings, so I don't see that as a possibility.

I believe they are all new from my kits it put in in the fall. Does mean they aren't bad, but shouldn't.

What am I missing? I went through my carbs, complete disassembly and clean. I set the float levels initially by gravity feeding the carbs on my bench and checking/setting fuel level with a clear tube on the bowl drain hose. I went to crank it, expecting great results because I felt very thorough. I had #1 & #4 flowing fuel around the needle with the key on. I figure float needle stuck open for some reason although they didn't exhibit this behavior in the bench. I figured maybe the fuel pressure made it behave differently, so I pulled them off and apart and went through the process again, but this time I took each carb to the bike and fill the bowl hooked directly to the bike with the key on. I did them all this way, reassembled and turned on the key. Now I have 3 flooding out through the needle jet and down the throat of the carb. Suggestions? I'm not intimidated by pulling the carbs, I've done it about 4 times in as many weeks and twice today.

I attmpted to search, but didn't get a suitable result. if i see and ebay hitch for a 1200, will it fit my '87 1300?

Actually hitting WOT is so foreign to me, I don't know what to say. I guess I'm getting old. Your symptoms at low speed sound kind of like what my bike was doing when I decided to pull off my carbs and found 3 of 4 pilot jets clogged