Razorback

That RR unit looks like a bear to get off. Any tips? I'm not even sure at what angle to attack it.

I certainly hope so. I just cleaned the main fuse and solenoid connections. They looked pristine as did the neg batt cable connection by the water pump. I scrubbed everything with a brass brush anyway. I also pulled the battery box to see what access i can to coils and TCI, just in case. I had the battery out anyway. Now to chase that frame ground you mentioned. I reeaaaalllly appreciate your patience and help with this. You guys can really shortcut a lot of trial and error.

Autozone tested my battery and showed it 100% charged, sitting at 12.7V, but said it was bad. I tested the stator running before pulling the battery and got 47VAC on each wire pair combination at 2400 rpm steady. The only thing I haven't done per your article is clean solenoid, main fuse and frame ground connections. Don't know where the frame grounds are. I'll clean what I can find. I'm going to go ahead and order a RR unit since it continues to test bad, and is done so completely disconnected, without apparent influence from battery voltage or charging system. I should probably spring for an AGM battery while I'm at it. Will anymore tests be valid ( after I find and clean all remaining connections) before purchasing a new battery? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

battery voltage (no charger, not running, just sitting there) = 13.0 volts battery voltage at idle (1000 rpm) 12.6 volts battery voltage at 2000 rpms 12.7 volts Stator test open to ground .3 - .4 ohms between pairs R/R test Black test lead to black wire: all white wires test between 9.5 and 11.0 MEG ohms...might as well be open as indicated in first test. Red test lead to black wire: all white wires test about 325k ohms (.324M ohms on meter) Red test lead to red wire: all white wires test between 18 and 19 MEG ohms.. again,essentially open Black test lead to red wire: all white wires test about 350k ohms I put my high beam light on with it idling and i see the blue indicator slightly pulsing with the idle. I cleaned by ground wire down by the water pump. are there other ground points to check? In the meantime (while you guys find and respond to my update) i'm pulling my battey to have it tested.

2009

Looking at a coworkers bike and the left antenna will pull right out of the base, while the right one feels secure. It looks like a black plastic part on the bottom of the antenna base fits into a metal receptacle on the bike. The metal part has indentions 90 degrees apart. I looks like the black part on the antenna may have had lugs at the same points. How does it work and go together? Is the loose antenna trashed? thanks

I'll retest everything when I get home. I wish I didn't work 35 miles from the house or I'd know by noon.

I called my 12 yr old and walked him through it. He moved the black lead on the meter and retested. Still got 16V. I had him grab a cheap Harbor Freight meter out of the kitchen and it showed fresh charged battery voltage at 13.8 V. Let's assume for the moment that cheap meter is reasonably accurate. I'll retest this evening with another meter I have here at work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh dang. I looked at that and kinda wondered. I'm at work now, but will have someone at the house move the lead and check the battery to start with. I just gotta know ASAP what's going on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did I not convincingly confirm that the RR was bad? It's not hooked to anything during testing. Now I'm a tad confused. I'll see about having my battery tested this evening. I sure don't like blind parts swapping either, but wondered if I should go ahead and get an RR on the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/22/e2y7u9ah.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/22/y2ygurap.jpg I was a little confused when i found the large connector from the RR and it had 2 red and 2 black wires. I just did the same tests twice using each black and red wire getting the same results. Hope that's ok. Here's what I got: Black lead on blk wire, testing each white: all open Red lead on blk wire, each wht wire is 580 ohms Red lead on red wire, each wht is open Black lead on red wire, each wht is 580 ohms. Seems backwards, like you might suspect my leads are plugged in backwards on my meter, but I provide a pic that shows otherwise. Stator tested good with open to ground and 0.7 ohms on each pair combination. I'll attribute the higher range than you specify to the relatively poor resolution of the meter. Looks like I need a RR as you probably already knew. Btw, charged the battery last night for about 7 hrs at 2A and it's sitting at 16V with the charger off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I almost hope so. It may be the beginning of the end of my gremlins. I'll report my findings in the am. Thanks for hanging in there with me on this. There's plenty of knowledge on this board, but it kills me waiting on someone to jump in and help. I sure appreciate it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great article. I think I'll test stator and RR in the morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cranked it and held at 3k and read 15.2V. I also notice that headlight starts slight flickering above 2k rpm, most noticeable around 2500, same as the cutting out it's doing around the same rpm going down the street. Voltage gauge on the bike follows the climb on the tach from 1-2k. Voltage is moving from about 12v to 13.5 V per the gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm hoping someone can tell me what I should be checking. Any specific connections, other electrical components? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put a second gen starter on it a few weeks ago while going through carbs and I could really tell a difference, but now it just seems like a weak battery issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sure will after I charge it. I tried to crank it a second time and it wouldn't, as described above. If in can crank it shortly I'll run it up to 3k and tell ya what i get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had just started it before the last reply. I went start I again to see what in getting and it turned over slow with the volts dropping as low as 6-8 volts while trying to turn it over. I've got a craptastic cheapo lead acid battery that is about 10 months old. It hasn't been kept up very well in that time either. Probably time for a AGM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was about to hook up the charger and put my meter on it and it reads 14.28. Charge it anyway? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New clues: I've been riding it ever since the last post, which was from a parking lot as I was riding. Runs like a scalded ape, but with the occasional hiccups, whatever it is. Here what I'm seeing. Headlight flicker, dash illumination flicker. I actually had to have my wife jump start me from the parking lot I was in earlier. The headlight and high beam indicator respond to throttle twist. The voltmeter has been fluctuating a little. When I pulled into the carport the voltmeter dropped down to about 8 V. Perhaps I've had an intermittent voltage supply issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also took it out just now and decided to flog it a bit, or ride it like I stole it as they say. It actually performed much better but still cuts out some. Check out this observation though: I'm running along in 3rd gear at about 3k rpm. I let off the throttle and the tach bounces up to 4500-5000 rpm, bounces around on its way back to approx 3000-ish. Ideas around those observations? Monday it's misbehaving so bad I abort trying to ride it to work. Tonight I'm thinking I can drive it in the morning and hope the bugs work themselves out (as though it were a carburation issue)

I measured all 4 from boot to ground and got anywhere from 22.4k to 23.5k. Fairly even I suppose.

Yes, it does seem accurate in that way. That's what I meant by saying it will drop and pick back up very quickly without affecting road speed. It looks like there's a gremlin switching the tach on and off very quickly. I am suspect of the TCI, but also need to rule out plugs, wires, coils, etc before contacting Gary for an aftermarket TCI.

I looked at the one in #3 where I found a dead plug, and I also took apart the cap on #2 and clipped off about 1/2" of wire and reassembled. Aside from a long barrel shape, what is the surface of the resistor supposed to look like (color)? I think mine looked kinda chalky white.