Razorback

Tach only drops about 300-400 rpm recovers so fast I don't lose any speed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cables not corroded, but I'll have to check for tightness. Engine ground had been cleaned and re tightened, but of course I'll double check. I rode it to work this morning and it did well. Not so great last night, but pretty well this morning. I had some initial hiccups between 2500ish and 3500 rpms initially. I stopped after about 5 miles and put in 3 gal of 93 octane, just because. It ran well with only a few hiccups over the next 30 miles (at 3800 rpm). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been a couple of days with final checking of everything I could think of and relocating the TCI and changing out the diodes in the process. Still runs the same, has an erratic miss, always indicated on the tach, also have some flickering io instrument panel and indicator lights. At the same time. I'm a bit stumped. I've checked all charging and ignition parts I think I can check. I've checked stator (although even output, I'm not sure it's high enough, just under 50V each leg.). Rectifier (even swapped it with another used one) all connections cleaned. Coils, and caps checked. Plugs are new though I'm not sure I trust them.( already replaced one). Can't think of anything else. It sure seems like a system voltage issue with the flickering I'm seeing. I am running about 13.5 volts across the battery now where I was only in the upper 12s before the R/R swap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't cut the box. I took the time to des older all the main connector pins and lifted the board out of the box. So far I've had 2 diodes with legs detach when I picked at them gently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I opened mine the hard way and looks like I caught the damage in time. Crusty corroded diodes. TCI was working when I pulled it, so I might have a chance at fixing this bugger. It probably took 30 minutes or so to desolder all the connection pins. Now on to replacing diodes. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/ajuqyvyq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/syry4ame.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kinda what I figured, which is why i specifically mentioned mine was a Standard. Now back to putting it back together. BTW, you guys know how hard it can be to just buy a little bulk 7mm spark plug wire in a smallish town? No one has it.

And this one under the instrument cluster, has a Red/blue, a Red/brown? And a blackhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/a5ymuga9.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/ga4abyby.jpg I have no idea where it goes and as far as I know it's never been hooked up. If it should be, I don't know when the other end of it is. It contains a red and a black. My bike is a standard Venture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow that is a terrible looking TCI. I figure I can open mine with a dremel using a cutoff wheel.

Is there a pictorial anywhere of that process, where the best cuts are to be made? It's a bit tricky to cleanly desolder so many pin connections and remove the board without cutting the case, so I'm not opposed to performing that surgery.

I'm chasing an apparent misfire gremlin, so while i have most of the plastic off checking all related electrical components and ground connections, I figured it was great time to relocate the TCI and bake it for good measure while I got it out. I opened it up and found evidence of moisture as seen on the circuit board traces for pins C & F(pickup coils for cyl #4 & #2 respectively). I'm almost done with all charging circuit tests (and ign tests for that matter), but thought I'd let you guys weigh in on what I see in the pics related to to the TCI. I currently have the TCI in an oven in our lab here at work. I'll pull it out about 12:30 CST.

Yes, fan had already come on. I ran it a while longer looking for something to dim or flicker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/28/a4y2e6ut.jpg Did the bulb test. No dimming or flickering, although the bulb on the far right didn't seem quite as bright, buts it's a very slight difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If my testing feels a bit random, I'm testing other problematic bits as I find myself with easy access. Which will change today after I drop the battery back in to crank it. We are pretty much zeroed in on charging at the moment.

I picked up some cheap lamp bases and 3 60w bulbs because that's what they had at Home Depot. The selection if incandescents is shrinking as you might expect. If anyone thinks 60w is too low I'll pop into Walmart on the way home for some 75w

i've had 3 of 4 apart already and don't remember a brass washer, just spring and resistor on rear caps, just resisitor on shorter front caps. i may have another look. That resistance check was from the plug end (disconnected from the plug) to ground. I remeasured this morning and got 22.8k. About right for that test, as I have been reading. Did that and resistance was in spec. I'll be trying the light bulb stator test today as mentioned above.

I believe I tested the initial resistance check with that "bad" meter. I don't know that I've rechecked since discovering that problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last night I pulled the left fairing to get to and clean the smaller frame ground connection at the coil mount bracket. While I had easy access, I pulled the spark plug wires at the coil and clipped 1/4" off and reinserted. Did this for both #1 & 2. I also check primary and secondary of each coil, and the cap resistance. Everything was within spec, per the manual. I'll pull the right side next and check #3 & 4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wire it like this awesome sketch?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/24/gezepeva.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What happens to the light if it's bad? Do I understand the method correctly: every lead of a light socket will be plugged into the stator leads, one socket across a pair, and one across another pair, and another? 2 leads in a plug contact (from 2 different bulb sockets) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tested the RR unit with it in diode test mode and I get "open" when the the test lead color matches the lead on the RR and about .45 volts with the leads reversed. I thought it was bad, but this makes it appear to be ok?

Seems easy enough, i just hadn't removed the passenger floorboard and mount yet. i did test it in that manner, but just using the resistance scale. I'll specifically use the diode test and see what I get.

I'll give that a try, after i go ahead and expose and clean that connection. Yeah, i saw that connection and thought..why? I may also eliminate it as a precaution.

I cleaned the connection and tried to trace the wire. It goes right into the main harness which goes over to the left frame rail. I can't confirm yet, but I think it drops right back out of that main harness and connect to the coil bracket, right behind the throttle cable junction box for the cruise. Since I can't get to that with even more disassembly, I probed that end of the connection and touched a bolt on the rear frame and had continuity with a measured 0.0 ohms. Is there any need to actually access and clean that ground with that kind of reading? I certainly can remove the left side fairing, but would skip it based on the continuity if that's the right thing to do. That blade connection was pretty chalky looking before i cleaned it. I wished i had tested for continuity before I cleaned it.

I had noticed a significant voltage drop during cranking and figured that couldn't be good.