Razorback

sounds right

I'm actually trying to figure out how to correctly get the female blade connections out of the plug so that I might replace them and re-insert into the plastic connector. I'd love to preserve that connector if possible.

Agreed, on all points. It'll just take a little more down time to finish up the hunt for the actual bad connection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And quicker for diagnostics, considering my previous/most recent findings on the voltage drop. I did the bypass with a 14 ga wire this morning before I left for work. I think it caused my in dash voltmeter to malfunction. It seems stuck on 14-ish volts now. It pretty well stayed on 14 volts for the entire flight...errr....commute to work. I never saw a single indication of erratic tach behavior, nor did i experience any hiccup that i could detect. I still had smooth unwavering power on my final approach. I was all smiles as I taxied to my.... I mean parked the Blue Angel... dang it!... I mean blue Venture. Not to slight anyone, as everyone has been great help, but I'll quote a few of you here: Yep, this is now the current behavior, only a slight dip in voltage, to about 12.5-ish volts Yep, you’ve both been right on this all along Yep, one causing the other, as a couple different folks on here suspected. Early on I kept suspecting a system voltage issue more than a component failure. I think i'll improve the connection of the bypass wire at the regulator plug for now, making it more permanent. As of now, I crammed it into the back of the RR plug on the RR side and zip-tied it to the rest of the plug wire bundle.

I agree 100%. Great help around here. The waiting game can be nerve wracking at times, but it's worth the wait. 😁 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also had sudden overheating where I hadn't had it before. I had recently had my radiator cap off. I removed it, put it back on carefully/correctly and problem went away Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rectifier/Regulator - changes (rectifies) the AC voltage generated by the stator to DC voltage and regulates the output at about 14.5v to charge the battery and power the electrical system. Can't use normal auto plug wires as most these days are suppression type ( built in resistance). That won't jive well with our resistor plug caps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've heard there is an instrument cluster ground, but I haven't found it yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All that I can find. Right side of engine by water pump and smaller wire off neg batt cable goes to coils bracket. I removed that one and even scratched all the paint off the connection point and put it back on. I cleaned the contacts on the disconnect on that smaller black wire that is about 6" from the battery. I'll take another peek at that one in the morning just to make sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

per the manual, it says the battery fluid level is low, but my sensor isn't hooked up, so that icon can be ignored until i do the mod for that.

When i turned the key on i had .875V right away across that connection. When i cranked it, it dropped to around 300mV. if i slowly bring up the rpms, the voltage will increase to a full 1 V, as i bring the throttle a little higher, it will lower, but as i decrease from there, it may spike closer to 2V on the way back down ( i saw that a couple times). I get .8 - 1.1 V at around 1200-1400 rpm. When i kill it with the key, it drops back pretty low. turn it back on, back to .8-something volts. what does it mean???

Didn't try that today, but yesterday it bounced between 130-320 mV at constant speed. I'll go check it right quick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

same on either side, verified multiple times today.good connection through that connector at this point.

only 2.5 ohms from frame to neg batt post. tested open several times on each white lead to ground. When I plugged the stator back in and cranked it, rev'd it again, this time the voltage when UP on the dash guage. Then very quickly, it wasn't as consistent, but I did determine it hits 14.8V at the RR plug between 1500-1800 rpm, then goes down again as the revs go above 1800 rpm.

Here's the video on YouTube, demonstrating the voltage drop as i rev the engine to 3000 rpm. in the mean time, I wiggled the wires at idle and 3000 rpm and didn't get any changes in meter readings, or engine behavior. at idle, there is a .7V drop between the 2 meters: 1 at RR connector (one lead on black, one on red) and the battery. 1 meter across the battery. Battery may read 13.3 while RR plug reads 14.0. shut off the engine and both meters read the same.

I forget on the stator test, motor off - probe stator leads to engine ground?

Check this out: I have a meter back probing the RR connector and my voltage at idle is 14.08 at 1000 rpms. If I rev it gently to 3000, the voltage will drop to about 12.9-13.0. I let it return to idle and the volts come back up to 14. What would explain that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, just wondering if the proposed brake system voltage drop was affected the overall charging system performance. I'm on my way home to giggle wires😁 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not that I'm aware of. I suppose I can use one of my 12V leds and hook in to the circuit and monitor from the dash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had thought i was having an issue when stopping at intersections based on engine dropping to idle, when actually it was due to applying the brake. At the sam time, I also thought the voltage was recovering based on engine speed. It's actually recovering because I let go of the brake at the same time i accelerate from a stop. I mentioned this to a guy here at work and he says i definitely have a short in my brake system. Makes sense. I've had the back of my bike off several times over the last few months with carb/fuel tank work going on. Maybe i compromised a wire or connector to the brakes and/or running lights in the process. I'll dig into that when i get home. Didn't ride today due to rain. After I get that checked out, I'll get some helpers and start wiggling wires.

I went out and cleaned the connector again, put it together, set idle speed to 3k rpm and checked both sides of the connector. Now I have 13.2V on either side of the connector when measuring red to black. the voltage i'm getting at different times is mimicking the different voltage levels i'm seeing on the dash. at this point i think my dash volt meter is reasonable accurate.

Connector Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

batt voltage at 2k rpm = 13.0V move lead to red wire at reg = 13.4V neg batt to ground = bounces between 5 - 36 mV

I saw that myself when looking at the video. What does that indicate?