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kj5ix

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Everything posted by kj5ix

  1. Yea it will hold what I can get on it 8 ft long, and 60 inch wide in the back, the front and back drop out to work on wheels, etc raises to 54 inch (4.5 foot) Can do some serious destruction to a bike quickly,,,
  2. I have this: I dont know if I need an adapter http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/Installs/jigsaw.jpg
  3. First thing I did was a good douche of Sea Foam,,, good stuff,,,,,,,, Goose: Pilot jet ??? I saw that mentioned in another thread, but thought it was on a first gen,, I also found that CarbTune is at a good price US, would that be worth getting.....
  4. I looked and got a few ideas from other cold pipe threads. I got the 01 RSV about a month or so ago, and don't know the history on it except that it needed an oil change soon. I have ridden it a few times, just to get the feel of it, and have found that there are a few annoying little things that were mentioned when I picked it up, like dropping out of curse,,,, and it does. In a couple of weeks I am going to tare it down to the frame and do a repaint, and Trike it. I am going to get the normal things while it is down to the frame like fuel filter, plugs (maybe platinum ) things like that that are a little bit of a pain to change. I am in the toolies, and don't have access to a sync thingie to check the carbs,, I start it now and then to keep the battery up, and fluids flowing. I noticed tonight that the right rear cylinder pipe is cold..?? I run the RPM's up a little and it gets hot like the others, but as soon as it goes back to idle the pipe cools right off and can be touched,,,,, Stumped, and out of my element some here. I sprayed carb cleaner around that carb while idling, and it seemed that the pipe got a tad hotter for a split sec. Am I on the right track. There are other cruiser types here in our big city but closest shop is 75 miles away. I guess I will be looking for a good local guy to help, and maybe sync the carbs. It runs out good some slight hesitation on pull off then OK...
  5. It just keeps getting better and better,, Ponch Keep to the high ground!! I hear its wet again down there again ...
  6. That is what I use on the GL,, TNX all. I will have more questions as time goes on, and I get this thing on the lift !!
  7. Thanks: If I read it right,,,, finally some real luck,, It looks like it takes the same as my GL1800 Those I have on hand,,,
  8. Not being totally familiar with the RSV (Yet) I know that the bike needs a oil change, wont get into the oil stuff, but do need to know what a cross number or Filter number would be. The closest Stealer is 75 or so miles away. The previous owner didn't offer up to much except it needed an oil change, and had 3 Qt's of oil for me. Basically I forgot to ask what had been done when,,,. Being as I will have it down to the frame here in a couple of weeks I plan on doing plugs, and some wiring tidying up etc, checking things out. I have a shop manual in PDF that will help on most of what I need to look at and do forward of the seat. The back I have down pretty good....
  9. Thanks Still new to this RSV stuff... I will have a ton of questions later as progress goes on, with my project.
  10. Is that one of Ponch's bezel plats, or your own,,, Looks great. Now if there were only a 1.5" Tach, and room for one more it would be perfect,,,
  11. I am working with a guy in Fla to interface a MP3 into the CD harness, and should be able to be controlled with the bar control's,,,, we hope. Still in the thinking, and doping out stages, but first harness is in the works I have been told. Shooting for mid July for testing..
  12. He should be able to find a early 1500 for 6 to 7 K if he is lucky,, but if he is looking for something under 5 he will have to look for a 1200. Parts are starting to get harder to find for the 1200's, and that model had a stator issue, but if it is still being ridden, I would bet that it has been taken care of. Both are good ridding machines, and easy on the butt on long runs.
  13. You may want to call them again,,, I will post a picture of it next Friday when the kit is delivered,, Still as of right now ( as I understand it ) not for retro filling into existing kits, but may be later on. The last kit I did ( two weeks ago ) had the tabs welded onto the frame. So retro fitting will require some welding.
  14. Lookin good, and a ton more functional/useful than the cassette,,,
  15. Tom Finch the maker of them does a fantastic job with design, and material, but they are real pricey. It is one of the "If have to ask, you cant afford it" scenarios. They are $7200.00 + with all of the options now,,, Great trailer though.
  16. I extended the tongue on my Time Out camper 24 inches for two reasons. It lightened the weight on the ball almost 50%, and gave me room for a tongue box. I need to do it to the Piggy Backer, and the Roll-A-Home camper too,,, The tongue weight on the camper is 75+#. Pulls great but heavy. Guess I could leave some crap home,,,
  17. I have to see a picture of that,,, I am about to do it to my -1 Yeller & Blue
  18. It has been released for sale as mentioned above, just not for retro fitting.
  19. If you want really good info on a Wing this is the place to be: More experts than you can shake a large stick at........ Check out the Sub Forums too for the specialized info Nuts to Soup http://gl1800riders.com/forums/forums.php
  20. Not that bad actually,,, no need to get that deep I take 1800 shocks out all the time, and don't get near that deep... Harder to put back in, but less time. Seat of course, and side covers, set pre load to 0, remove rear wheel. with a long 8mm hex socket, and extension on the left side go between the wiring harness to seat the hex into the bolt head. From the right side put a long large flat blade under the tank front, and between the nut, and frame. hit the left side socket with a low pressure impact wrench (I use a 3/8 Butterfly), and the nut on the right will fall to the floor. Take a long 12 to 18 inch drift AKA bar, about the size of a #2 Phillips, and knock out the bolt. Top part is done. Oh it is easer if you have some one to help that has some strength to help hold up the rear the bolt will come out much easer, and to but it back in requires two people too......... take the pump off without breaking the link hose connection, on the right side up by the seat rails, and disconnect the elect connections. Take the two hoses off the top of the gas tank that go to the right and down into the frame, and pull them in front of the pressure line to the shock pump, and put back on gas tank where they were. drop the center link (banana looking thing, and remember how it was in ) The shock will fall about half way out. With a helper move the rear end up and down a little while you work the shock out, and the pump, and line. Easy !!!! the hard part is getting it back in. Use the same method to replace the top hex bolt, and nut to tighten. The really hard thing is getting your hand up into the bolt to stare the nut by hand, but it can be done. Just takes patience.
  21. I don't know what the Tri King is using, but if it is a 7.5 ford I would bet the insides are stock ( bullet proof ) parts, and available at any auto parts. The big rub is they ask for year before any thing else,,,. The Hannigan uses a Thunder bird rear mounted upside down once again unknown year range. Easy to change out the gears, and seals ( messy as hell, but not that bad of a job )
  22. Yea that is one of the two most asked questions, Can I get Reverse, and extra gas. The gas is taken care of now ( cross my fingers ) the reverse is in the works, but not from Hannigan,,,
  23. Released for sale on May 27,, have a kit coming the 19 th with one,,,
  24. Try to find a Michelin Pilot Active in 130/70R-18 ( rear tire for sport touring bike), and mount it in reverse, or a BT45 (BattleAxe) I have the MPA Michelin on my GW, and have 27 K +- and lot of tread left.
  25. I will let you know some time after the 19 th of this mo, I am getting the first one for production, and will be writing the installation most likely.... Jim has told me that it wont be available for retro fitting. My last kit had the tabs welded on the frame, but the tank wasn't ready for release. They just released it last Tuesday ( and I added it to the order ) That could be subject to change depending on the installer ( not all have a welder or can weld ya know) Not Gravity feed ( it would have to be on top of the tour pac for that...) Distance with the Aux Tank,,, what ever you get per-gal now plus 4 more of that number
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