kj5ix
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Everything posted by kj5ix
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Pin Wall on Ebay has them. $89.95 for each seat. beats dealer price..
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As a matter of fact: Yepp Board members will,, Glad the shock saved ya...
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A 220 unit is the best to get, no doubt about it. You may find in the future that you like doing little things, and then when you need the penetration for that one bigger type job you need to fix, and the 110 just wont do it right. Like mentioned before the 110 unit is great for light quick things, but not strong enough something of any size. I don't think I would build a trailer, or repair a tongue with a 110 unit. You also want something with variable heat, and speed.
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I have 4/16 (1/4) double Electric Met Blue coming this week for the fenders, tank, tour pac, basic accent to break it up, and will be getting hand laid pin graphics/strips the first of the month at a rally here on TX at Grandbury. I hope that is.
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Posted this on the Goldwing board so I figured it would fit here also. Except for the Pin Strip that will be here this week it is Done, and rides Great, I still have the Speedo, and Cruse issue to work out though. Introducing Tweety Bird It is YELLER Yep it is definitely Yellow. The only difference between the Hot Rod Pearl Yellow Y130P and the Lamborghini Maiecerlgo, Gallio Deep Pearl Yellow is an extra shot of Pearl. In a couple of the pictures you can see the pearl working on the edges of the, and on the tank. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird92.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird93.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird1.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird2.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird3.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird4.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird5.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird6.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird7.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird91.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/tweetybird9.jpg
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OK now I see why you asked that question the way you did: I may have given the impression that I had taken the whole thing off the bike, in the other thread about the gas tank. I had just received the kit to be installed, not retro fitting the tank,,,,
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Jeff; So not to take away from your headlight thread I started this one for the Aux Gas Tank. NO NO the rear end; as in Frame work doesn't have to come off just the tour pac and body & running boards if you have them. The rear end ( pumpkin ) it self may have to be lowered ( basically removed, and sit down with axles still attached like putting in the drive shaft ) to do the welding there, but maybe not too. That could be done with asbestos blankets laid across the rear end. As simple as it looks it was done in a sort of complicated way. Meaning for an installer, it has to come off before the kit can be installed, and they supper locktited the mounts to the tank side, and you have to bend the rubber stand offs to the point of breaking loose to get the tank out of the frame to put the kit on the bike, and then go through it again to install the tank. I was able to break loose the stand offs, and eliminate 90% of that part. I think that there has been a retro fit of a couple from this board if I remember right, but haven't heard too much about it. This board is a little slow with activity compared to other boards, but the Quality of the threads makes up for that.
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Lookin Good there Larry,,,
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?????? Got me on that one,,, she is only 98lbs holding a sac of taters. She wants to come down a lot though, she isn't use to sitting so high,,, I have built a bunch of these in the last 14 months, but have heard nothing back from any of them except why did I wait so long..... I am sure that the light had to be out some,,,
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NOPE still no word on such mod from them. I am going to have to do this myself this week end,,, Man you talk about in the clouds the light was off to the moon last night....and way Left..
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Is it like the one in the Tech Library or better,, I could use one that is good, and covers most things, that you can copy pages to look at.
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I am working on a CD emulator that will plug in the back of the cassette or radio, and be controllable with the handle bar control like the CD, and should emulate 9 CD's with 99 songs each,,, I hope that is if I ever get the proto-type ,, Should have gotten it two weeks ago. It will use an SD card or USB stick.
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I am thinking in that line Larry, the speed sensor is relatively easy to change out ( if I don't mess up the spacing ) As it was acting up some prior to Triking, and got worst after, doesn't narrow things down either. The fact that the speed and cruse worked sort of just after Triking, and then out of the blue gone leads me to the sensor going or mostly gone bad. It took over two hours to find the "sweet spot" when I put it back together, which is quite un-nerving ( had to be done on jacks, and in gear,, ) So this one is most likely about to die out I think. Pin Wall is the best bet for one reasonable.
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Actually it is .003 to.005 very close, and this one is extremely sensitive, as to where it is set on the collar, that is what is leading me to think that it could be on the flaky side. Usually just set it to a dragging .003, and it is dead on and rock solid,,, Or at least on the other ones I have done.
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When I got the 01 the guy I got it from said the cruse was a little intermittent, and it was. It would hold some now and then some times for five or so minutes, and other times up to 45 or so. Didn't think too much about it cause I was going to Trike it soon. After Triking I rode it foe a few hundred miles before taking it apart again to paint, but at about 300 or so miles the speed -o went nuts, all over the dash, and I thought that the sensor got knocked out of whack underneath. I couldn't do any thing until I got the parts back to run it and check it out. I readjusted the sensor, and now have a steady needle, but the cruse upper two lights flash 4 times, and then off, with no set like before. I know that there are several things to check, but what I am really asking to get started is. Is the sensor a good or bad, go-no go device or can they be intermittent AKA Flaky. I know that until I get a rock solid speed the cruse isn't going to do diddly. Any ideas...
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OH it is Bright for sure,,, coming home the sun was to my back and I was squinting from the reflection,,, I still have the pin strip to order and put on, but did the dash wood grain appliqués ( mama's idea to get these, but not all that bad ) Now if I can get the speed sensor, and cruse working right and together I will be all set,,, Here are a couple more in the day light. Not too many this color around that is for sure... http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/bigbird1.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/dash.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/backend.jpg
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WOW I cant even see the back of my light now,,, That should be easy with that much room,, Yep: looks like the clip spring is not there.....
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I always ask if they have an Ugly Discount,,, Ya never know...
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Basically Lowers ( sort of ) for the GW Wing Stuff, and Honda Direct Line have them on sale now I think. Here is a photo of mine a couple of years ago, before I put on the Aqua Shields.. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/Misc%20Stuff/twingfront.jpg
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Mark, Have you discovered the Trike Wings yet,, They work wonders for the wind on your back, and the passenger area,,
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You see!! I told you Bing would know where we are Man!!
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This morning before RIDING it to work Finally http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/BigBird.jpg
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That is a really good idea; how ever when it looks something like this. That work sheet is mostly useless. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/BigBird.jpg
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Thanks Mark; It is indeed YELLER. I finished it last night at midnight, with the exception of the wood grain trim stuff...:banana:, and little nicnac things I want to do. I will get some photos today in the day light so the true Yeller can be seen..... Not the Norm for a Yammer that is for sure. Good thing is that I get to ride it to Church tonight,, I may have to change the lesson for tonight,,,
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If the kit is fairly new, and I am assuming it is because it is an 07 the drive shaft is "supposed " to be greased good at assembly The key word there is Supposed. Taking the drive shaft out to see if it is greased or to grease it is a Royal Pain in the BUTT... The rear end has to be dropped. and the axles popped, that is actually easy to do but the rear end is the big pain. The first thing that has to happen is the body has to come off... tbbrider: I will check with Brad at Hannigan today and see if he might know something. I just finished mine last night at midnight, and though I know the kit, I too am still learning the bike side, and have already learned way more than I wanted :) If you saw my thread about the oil pan,, I have heard the click that you describe when I get ready to push mine out to ride some times, but not always, and it always seems to be associated to the drive train load on it or seems to be.
