kj5ix
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Everything posted by kj5ix
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You have to crack the case ( rear plate ) which is a big PIA cause the rear end is mounted to the frame,,,, or suck it out with an oil sucker..... I think it was mentioned while I was there at the factory once that somewhere between 100 to 150 K for the change. when was the last time ya changed the rear end lube on your truck,,,,,,,,,,, :)
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Jeff You are more than likely correct on the oil coming from the center tubes. That is a source of a mess at times.
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Absolutely NOT That will make a horrible God Awful Mess underneath!!!!!! That is a Thunderbird rear end mounted upside down. The fluid level should be just about an inch below the hole. Use a wire or a zip tie to check the level. If ya fill it up it will blow out all over every thing, and make one of the biggest messes you will ever have to clean up................ The residue that I see in the photos looks normal to me for the time on the kit. If it is actually leaking there would be spots on the floor when parked for a week or less, or a lot more messy than what you have,,,,, JMO
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Good info,,, I thought that they used Honda Civic or Accord front break calipers pretty much exclusively on all of their kits,,, I know the BMW and GL1800 do. Still good info to have in the old data banks. Hope I don't lose the key to the bank to get it out again,,,,,,,,,,,
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Not really the tank is just over 4.5 Gal and sits just off the frame. One might could make one that was a little deeper on the right part of the frame next to the rear end, but not much more than what there is now.
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It ties in under the tour pac in a big white connector. Can be reached by pulling the left tire off, and you should see it. Most of mine have been 4 to 5 converted there.
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If you are talking about a Hannigan, the front mounts will have to be re-cut, and slotted I think. The boards should be just at or right behind the rear edge of the lowers like you are thinking, or that is where I made mine fit.
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I have been using the ST-7317 filter from Wally World for several years on both the GL1800, and the RSV. It is the longer filter and have had 0 problems. Cost $2.97 ea..... Also get oil ( Rotilla T-6, and Mobil 1 there )
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Don't tell me that!!!! I have a kit supposed to be shipped today,,,, and it is a complex paint mix,,, I hope that you get good results from the factory...
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No offense here either... It seems odd that a dealer would suggest what they did, other than to save some cash,,, There is a reverse available for the Hannigan kit, but not through Hannigan. It is made by Paul at Misty Mountain Cycles in Ar. I don't know if it is something that can be retro fitted or has to be done as kit is assembled. You could give him a call. It is $1000.00 give or take. I have no real problem moving mine around at all as long as it isn't up hill. I just don't have enough lead in my pencil to write that note AKA Lite in the Azz,,,
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OOPS!!! been there done that!! I am going to quote this in the other thread too.
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I don't know who the dealer that you are talking with, BUT ( just my point of view here now ) HE IS AN IDIOT!!! True that gas will get stale after time, particularly this new ethanol gas, but not over night... as he seems to think. I would venture to say that most if not all of us are aware of that and either drain the gas or use it up before storage, or at minimum use a good additive. His boat has a ton of holes in it, and wont float. At least in my pond... Yes it will save you a sum of funds, but trust me!! The first time that you forget to put the pit cock back to run and leave it on RES ( we have all done it so don't deny it ) and you sitting on the side of the road dead in the water, and out of gas, you would be wishing that you had got it. The second idiotic point was the running boards,,, What is with this??? He doesn't keep up with info sent to the manufacture, or think for his self,,, An easy fix.!! Yes they will scratch, but come with a raised rubber Hannigan Logo usually placed in the foot ( mount step area ) Some don't choose to put them on. I last year sent Jim the pattern for foot placement pads to be considered as part of the kit ( haven't heard if it would be or not, but the idea was well received. ) I will add a photo to the bottom. Fuel mileage according to him,,, Well he is just as full of crap as a Christmas Terkey.....!!! If you get better than 35 MPG your riding at 55 MPH I wonder what brand of Left handed Cigarettes he is smoking,,, The Hannigan Trike kit is a particular kit that one has to pay attention to some certain things, and not just slap it together. The speedo gap is the most critical setting to achieve in most cases, then the rear wheel alignment. If you didn't see at least 2, 8 foot florescent light bulbs in a corner or on a rack in that shop. He ain't ready to install that kit... He probably doesn't want to install the gas tank, or the running boards,,,,, the way it sounds. What did he say about a rake kit or do I dare ask,,,
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Now thats an idea to ponder over
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Its about over Tom, I am just a few miles from Ole Miss over the bridge and river from ya, in NOLA for this week end I came down to see what rain looks like. Pretty neat stuff! wished we could take some back with me tomorrow
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A perfect fit with a little room on the sides, just make sure that the ramp wires are wide enough.. It is 61.5 wide, so 70 + inch between the wire is good.
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Remember that Saturday is in the middle of a holiday week end don't be surprised to find they are closed till Tueaday......
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Pinion seal is of course replaceable, but a little tricky to get the crush collar seated with proper drag. I have one coming up soon to do on another style kit. Replacing the rear end is one way to do it,,, This has sure turned into a fiasco!!! I hope that it all gets straightened out and that you get a million miles out of it when done.....
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WOW Tom what a mess!!!!! As to the gas line there is supposed to be a check valve in-line just at the base of the seat and assessable if need be. As there is no instructions on where to put it or the line I would bet that it is on the left side and goes through the hole in the splash guard for the battery ( there is already a hole there ) I didn't like the idea of a big block of brass that close to the positive post of the battery, so I moved it to the other side, and ran it to the tie in hose. That required buying more hose also. I did notify Jim at Hannigan on the routing, and sent photos on how I did the routing. Attached is where it most likely is routed, and how I thought it should be,,, If the photos don't show in order the two shots of the check valve behind the frame is how it most likely is installed. If that is the case it is near impossible to even check to see if the check valve is installed right ( there is an arrow on it to indicate gas flow direction ) the photos with the hose routed to the left side, and with the valve visible and assessable in front of the right side frame is how I thought it should be, and the valve is readily assessable. Now: Where is the rear end leaking ( if you know ) The first thing that people do that aren't familiar with the orientation of this rear end is to over fill it, and then it blows lube oil over every where,,,, This rear end is a Ford Thunderbird 7.5 rear chunk, and is MOUNTED UPSIDE DOWN!!!! there is where people get in trouble with the lube level. It has to be checked with a wire, tie-wrap, stick, something put in the hole and down. The lube level should be about an inch & quarter to half below the hole rim. I forgot this once, and on the test ride I got covered, I am assuming that they test rode it first with out the body to catch things like that, and speed-o adjustments etc:,,, Also check to see if the overflow tube is tied up with a good loop, and not just dangling or over the rear end. If you can get it to Randy at Adventure Trikes in Alabama, he can do it right. He will call for the proper way to set it up. I would also be curious how the rear to front alignment is. Very critical to tire wear, and tracking!!
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According to the Hannigan Spec's their kit adds approx 320 pounds.
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Don; you ain't jokin about the work out,,, I put about 15K on my Goldwing before I did the front end. Best bang for the buck even at the 1K cost. Wasn't even a question when I did my Venture. I did ride it about 300 miles with out it while I was waiting for the paint appointment to come, and with the wide Continental front tire,, I almost gave up ridding all to gather,,,,,:):)--- NOT: but was glad the paint appointment was only a few days out at the time.
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Don I don't remember if mine is in the front or rear, but I think it is in the rear. It will be really close to the lip, and mine is. It is easy to do and check, just few small bolts. Check to see that the plates were put back it on the rear bolts that prevent the cracking too... If not get a couple of 1.5 or 2 inch fender washers to put on the rear two bolts, and snug, not gorilla tight.
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Congrats: you will love it. Glad the info sent helped. To answer your question on the rake kit installation: Yepp you have to take the front all the way down to the frame. Some experience or knowledge of the workings of the inner faring, and associated parts is a Big Help,,, but worth it when done. This is what it will look like about half way through.... and a few parts lying around.
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bike cutting out / missing at WOT
kj5ix replied to Gary N.'s topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Do you want to get rid of them,,,,,,, -
Don; this link is for the GL1800 MT Trike, but the Ladder Bar System is the same concept on all of their kits. The adjustments should be similar if not the same. The Safety Bar up front, and the Lateral Brace adjustments are the same as far as play goes. Maybe it will help in some areas on your Trike. I wrote it in 08, and there are addendum's that haven't been added, but they are for their new IRS which is an entirely different system. http://www.junkmaster.com/kj5ix/MTServiceManual.pdf