eagleeye

I also have a nuvi 765T and if it rains, I just take it off of the mount and stick it in my pocket. Simple It's all about the almighty dollar and who has it.

When you get got, you really get got.

Well, the outside will be damp/wet from the ground without a ground cloth/tarp, but the inside should not be wet, period. You bought a refurbished tent from Eureka and it had 24 patches on the floor? That is not right. Everything that I have ever bought refurbished always looked like new. Take it back. And Eureka in my book makes good tents. I have a eureka timberline that is 40 years old. Still works as a tent. Not the tent that I use now though. I found the tent that is now my favorite of all: Coleman Hooligan 3 Look it up

Here is a place that you can download and print out lists to make remembering what you are going to take easier. You can add or subtract whatever you want. http://micapeak.com/checklists/mclist.html

It would be interesting to hear what Earl/Skydoc has to say about that.

So what is the Pressure Differential Valve setting of the white L14612 compared to the PL14459 ? That is what you are talking about, right? And, why do I care about that?

That pretty much says it all. :rotf:

"CHROMALICIOUS"------ That's a GREAT word, BTW Look on ebay, lots there

I have already sent him that link, but today it is gone.

I met a friend of Yoopers last fall who showed us his Million Mile award from Harley Davidson. He started keeping track in 1978 and did this on 3 different HD's To say he likes to ride is an understatement.

Holy Moly Owl, That's a mouthful! I'm glad that you had all the docs on your side. I am very much looking forward to seeing you again at the Pork in the Pines 10th this year, along with your award winning CHILI! Take care of yourself and I'll see you then.

I'll tell you this: I talked with garmin last week and they don't have a refurb 765. That's all I know

You need the 14612, the 14610 is too long.

Well, first of all, I think that the price is fair. I would have wanted to know what every valve checked at for sure. He should have them all written down. And should have replaced the plugs while they were accessible. As far as the coolant, he got over half of it. Seems like he should have gotten another liter though. I guess you should have a gut feeling about trusting the guy or not, right? Besides who cares about the dealer, it's the mechanic that worked on your bike that you should care about/trust. How many miles on the bike?

Anyone have these on their bikes with pictures? Without the housings.

I just looked at Engleharts add, and this year/color is one of my favorites. As far as the oil, what was posted is more than likely the cause. I wouldn't worry about it. I'd have them clean it up though. Or, a can of engine degreaser and a hose will have them looking like new. And that battery charger will do nothing for a dead battery. Have them put a new battery in it. If you like, I'd meet you over there some day this week. I'm just up in Sauk City. BUT---Go to Madison CL and type in 2003 Yamaha Royal Star Venture. There is one in Neenah with 19,800 miles for around the same price.

I also read those two reports of the PL 14612 that drips after install. I just put that filter on and have run several tanks of gas through the bike and see no leaking. When I see someone say that it stopped screwing in after it hit the gasket, I wondered if they put oil on the gasket before they installed it. When I put mine on, it went on like any other oil filter, with oil on the rubber gasket before install. And gave it a little extra twist after it hit the gasket. There are a number of reasons for a filter to leak/drip that have nothing to do with the filter itself. Maybe more to do with cleaning/lube/prep before install.

Very nice

Thanks for looking out for me, but I have grip puppies on and they just cover up that spacer. It turns with the throttle so doesn't matter. After time they tend to slip down, so I just put them on a little farther.

Wisconsin Motorcycle plates for two years is $24.25 per bike

After just having checked mine, and knowing how much work is involved in removing everything, (that you mostly have off at this point) and looking at how far you have it apart, and considering that you are going to take the carbs off, I'd for sure check the valve clearance. It's another maybe 15 minutes to take the valve covers off.

The reason that I posted this is because I think mine are a bit low. However, these are the Flanders bars that have 2" of pullback and 1" of rise. Looking at the picture, I agree with you that you can't tell the difference, in fact looking at them on the bike, I can't tell the difference, but, I guarantee you when you sit on the seat and grab the bars they are a world of difference. And when you ride, no more stretch to reach. Today was only my second ride with them so I'm starting to get used to them. I might leave them the way they are and I might raise the bars an inch or so. I'll ride some more before I decide. I'd still like to know what the height of the stock bars are. Oh, and you don't have to change out any cables. only reroute the brake cable and throttle cable. Not a big deal at all

Let me re-ask the question: If you have a stock RSTD, what is your handlebar height to the center of the bar end weights? I put Flanders bars on and am curious as to the difference to where mine are set and stock bars. Just so you know, my Flanders bars height to the center of the bar end weights is 36 1/2" as we speak.

It is very impressive, but you have to tell us what each is.

I meant to reply to the post asking how long this ugly job takes--- Well, I'll tell you what, that was a PITA to put it mildly!! Fortunately is was a warm sunny day, so that in itself made it nice to be out in the driveway. I spent the afternoon, and that includes running to get a replacement filter and a few parts needed. I did relocate mine under the seat. I bought a 5/16" nipple and I cut maybe 5" off of the hose going to the gas petcock and used that to extend the one going to the pump, and tucked it in under where the front of the seat and gas tank meet. The fram G3606 match in Purolator is a F29160, which is what I used. The Purolator F 100 24 is a much smaller filter. All that to change a gas filter that should take all of 5-10 minutes