Winddancer

Hmmm, maybe I put this in the wrong thread.

After putting on over 100,000 miles on her, I no longer have the time to ride her anymore, so I figured I would send her off to someone who could. This bike is in Salisbury, Ma. and will have to be picked up, with a trailer, it currently does not run, and needs a starter solenoid and new battery, it also needs fuel drained. I had rebuilt the carbs 6 months before I parked it , due to needing new header pipes (which I have) then Life got in the way. kept starting it up every other week, untill one day the starter solenoid popped and I never got a chance to fix that or get any of it done. so it has been sitting a couple years, and as sad as I am, I have to face the facts that I will never have the time to get it fixed and its time to let it go to a new home. Thank you Chuck

Does anyone know where I might be able to buy a new plug that goes into the starter relay, besides a junk yard? I saw write up once that had a link to all the pieces new, but cant find it anywhere. I have been so busy, I have not been able to work on it at all , but am going to try to get to it this week. Thank you.. Chuck

Thank you for the suggestions.. I went home and played with it some more last night.. I think I may have discovered the area where I get a consistent loss of power when wiggled. it is part of the wiring harness that is zip tied to the frame, where the wires to the fuse box, and the wires to the relay separate. I tried an experiment yesterday, while bike was running, I pulled the ignition fuse, and it basically mimicked my issue, left radio on, but bike dead, put in fuse, dash lights up, and starts right up. I ran out of time, but my next experiment will be to see if when I loose power before, or after the fuse box. if it is before, then the wire from the plug in the front is bad, if it is after, then the wire from the box to the relay is bad, either way, it should the be as simple as splicing in a new wire between the two connection (I hope) according to this diagram, it is the Brown/blue wire I am looking for correct?? https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf thank you again for all the help.. Chuck

I have pulled ,tugged,wiggled and bent Every wire down there in that area trying to get It to shut the bike off, and when it finally does happen, it wont happen at that spot again.. That's what's driving me nuts.

Hello, After finally getting the carbs straightened out, I started have issues with it shutting off, bike would just go dead, no power for a split second, shutting off lights and engine, then back on, allowing me to restart most of the time, but it would happen every 100 feet.. started looking into the wiring and the possibility of it being the ignition switch. all the things lead me to the ignition switch problem, except for the fact that if I slightly touch the wires going to the Starter relay, the power comes back on.. pulled the cable plug found the main wire was barely connected , repaired, and fired it up.. worked for about 40 miles then boom, split second power loss, restarted, kept rolling, went out again, this time power didn't return. pulled over, slipped a flat head screw driver behind that black cover by the rear footboard, pushed on the wires, power popped right on, fired up, away I went.. this has now become the norm as I ride this trying to figure it out. It makes no sense to me that it would be the ignition issue, if wiggling that group of wires back by the fuse box/starter relay make everything work again, every time, time after time. I just can't keep taking the chance of it happening in a place that then puts me in danger like bridges, turns, intersections ect. so, I will ask those who are far smarter then me on these matters. has this issue some up before, I am looking more towards the wires right now, and they all look good, and make good contact, and although I am able to easily and consistently restore power, it is not as easy to wiggle them and loose power. I have yet to find an area or action that gives me consistent power loss. I wanted to just pull the fuse box and replace it, but unlike my other bikes, this is part of the main harness, and to place it, you replace the whole harness, which is a pain in itself, so for now, that's out.. so does anyone have clue as to what is going on?? Thank you all for all your past help.. Chuck

I just fixed mine. it started leaking while I was on vacation. I looked all over, and the only place was either the stealership, or the online parts store. mine were 10 bucks a piece, and look like they may cost a penny to make.. and you do have to break apart the carbs to replace it, but, you can loosen the main bolts, but only take off the nuts on the side you are splitting apart, be careful where the 2 carbs join as one for the throttle, there is a spring in there.. not how it goes back in..pull apart far enough to pull out the leaky side of the T replace seal, put back in and wiggle it around...blow in main fuel tube and check for a leak, once carbs are out it takes about and hour to split fix and reassemble.. good luck... Chuck

Yea, Ignition.. that's what I was thinking too, When I went to get the bike after work, it started right up and I rode it home, got home and it died, left the key on started wiggling wires until power came back on, and nothing.. My radio has been cutting in and out too, and it was off or out, couldn't tell because the sun was too bright, but I will check that tomorrow morning in the dark.. I decided to check the cable into the fuse box as I have had other electrical issues down there, pulled the cover, wiggled the wire, boom, dash lights up.. start bike, wiggle the wires, boom.. bike dies.. so I think... and I emphasize "think" I may have and issue at the main fuse box on the ignition circuit, I have had this before on my Voyager, where I unplugged it, cleaned it, cut and redid all the wire connections, so I went to see how hard it is to disconnect, and find out you can't, it part of the main harness, which sucks.. but anyways, I had to button it up, and I plan to do further looking into that area today, or tomorrow.. as for the Keyed part of the ignition, I have been debating for years just to bypass it, and go with a switch, and will all of this, I think I very well might just do that, I just need to be careful about the switch I use, as it has to be able to withstand the weather since my bike lives outside year round, so if there are any suggestions on what I should look for as a minimum spec wise, please let me know.. Thank you again for your help and knowledge.. have a great day.. Chuck *** oh forgot to add, battery is a brand new Dekka, just installed this past weekend, so I know that is good..

OK.. quick update, after redoing the carbs it seems to start easier and with less choke needed.. but as I went to test ride it, and the power kept cutting in and out, and after messing around with it, got it running and was able to ride it into work yesterday and all was good. ran great, started great. then this morning, it started right up. took off to work, stopped at the gas station, turned it off, filled her up, started her back up, and 20 seconds later it died. started it up again, and the same thing, power cuts off and shuts off bike... wiggled the main wiring harness, and started it up again.. managed to pull out from the pump but died after about 25ft, but this time, dead, no power at all..no lights, no nothing.. so I parked it called for a ride, and rode my other bike to work.. I have gotten a case of serious gremlins with this bike lately and it really sucks, as this is my daily rider... so, now I have to figure out whats going on, and my first look is the ignition wires... so I am not fixed yet, but I think the carbs are, and I didn't really want to just leave this thread hanging.. thanks for all the help.. Chuck

marharpikon Did you ever figure this out?? I seem to be having a similar issue. I went to ride in this morning and went a whole 50ft before the engine just died, lights went out, but came back on in the blink of an eye, hit the starter and fired right up, to die 10 ft later, same deal, total power loss for a millisecond then all back on. I made it about 100 yrds from my house and then turned around, that 200 yrd trip I lost power at least 10 or more times. each time it did happen the engine and did come on, but all the lights that usually come on when you first turn the key on came on.. since it was 230am and I needed to get to work, I took another bike, but I think my first thing to check is the ignition.. please let me know if you actually figured out what it was, thank you.. Chuck

OK.. After getting a late start due to having a meeting, here is a little up date, and more questions.. First off I checked all the coils, except the front left since it is not really accessible ,but that one has good spark and no issues when starting pipe heats up quick like the rest. I also pulled all the plugs, looked at them, all, even the one on the faulty cylinder was tan. Ran a compression test on all the jugs, all are at 180lbs tried to check the voltage to the ignition coils, the numbers kept changing and never went to 11v on any of them, so I must have done that wrong. am I testing both leads , or a lead and ground? pulled off the air box thing and have it setup in the morning to pull out carbs and started it up to burn off the fuel and check to see if my non working cylinder came back to life, but it didn't, however, I did notice that little piece that joins the 2 sides of the air boxes was smoking as it was running, a light white smoke that dissipated quickly. probably normal, just never see it before.. and lastly, not sure how to check the carb heaters, but the fuse, and power to the fuse are good.. I do have a question on that "fogging" are you saying I should take some deep creep, pour it in the spark plug hole spin the tire (in gear) and add more until the level doesn't go down anymore, then let it sit for a day or two? so tomorrow I will pull the carbs and check things in there.. 2nd day.. instead of adding another reply I will just add to this one. pulled the carbs apart, to check to see if the floats valves were leaking I hooked up a piece of hose to the fuel pipe, blew in and created pressure, once I saw pressure held, I lifted the float, and air released. did that will all of them, then I sucked in the air, and let it suction to my tongue and held it there to see if it lost suction, it did not ,until I lifted the float, all 4 carbs passed this test..floats looked and measured good, no holes, no liquid, and they float. pulled all the jets and blasted them with air, and also put the right main jets in the right carb, had 2 &3 switched. sprayed and air blasted pretty much everything, and put it back together and it seems a little peppier, but as for starting better I really won't know until tomorrow morning @230am.. I will up date this later on , once I know thank you all for the help.. Chuck

Wow, Lots of info.. Thank you!! now that its Friday, after work I am going to pull the carbs, hopefully the rain holds off until I do. if not sunday suppose to be nice. looks like Saturday is a wash out.. but anyway once I get them pulled I will check all of the suggested items.. I do remember having really push down to seat those float valves, and the valve itself already had the washers on and if I do remember looking in there when the old float valve was pulled to to see if there was anymore I needed to do in there and I saw no washers or anything else removable.. I did not check the floats, to see if the floated, I just looked them over and made sure the didn't have cracks or liquid inside.. I will do that too while I am in there, any reason I can fill bowl with rubbing alcohol to test the floats, easier to just dump out, and smell doesn't stay with you all day,,hahaha.. Puc as for the unused o-ring if you look at picture of the kit it is the big round one next to the lid seal on the left with a spring laying over it.. It is much bigger then the float valve, or anything in that carb and really didn't see a place that it would go.. I will also take bongobobny's idea about the carb heaters, and give them a check the same with Steven G's suggestion about checking voltage, I know I got spark, but never really thought, is it enough of a spark?, luckily I have a full set of coils so testing, and swapping out if I find a bad one will be simple.. and while the tank is off I can check the compression on all four cylinders. Thank you everyone for all the suggestions, I have a good list to work through and hopefully the answer will reveal itself in the end.. Chuck

Thank you Puc and Marcarl @Puc... I believe I did change it, I used the kits I bought and used all but 1 washer because I couldn't find where it went.. and I believe I changed the whole float valve assembly, I will look when I get home, as I kept all the parts I swapped out. put if it is the piece that has the fuel screen at the bottom, and the fuel needle in it, yes I know I did because the kit has them all as one piece. here is what I used.. I bought the 4 pack, but this has a better picture of the parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Yamaha-XVZ1300-Royal-Star-Venture-Carburetor-Carb-Repair-Rebuild-Kit-18-5191/201921746009?epid=223432014&hash=item2f03795459:g:2A8AAOSwvNVcT7Lg:sc:USPSFirstClass!01952!US!-1 @Marcarl Thank you for that link, it will help.. would you, or anyone know how they are numbered.. my guess would be, while sitting on seat carb 1 Rear left, carb 4 Rear right, 2 FR and 3 FR, only because I believe I read somewhere for tuning, rear left is the main carb to use for syncing up the tuner, and that's what I always use to sync up the motionpro. But I think it is going to come down to pulling the carbs again.. owell I got it so I can do it all in about 35 min.. hahaha.. Thank you again gentleman.. Chuck

Thank you for your reply Marcarl do you know which one is the one that is suppose to have the larger one? that way I can pull it and see..

Used to use the T6, now I use the Quick Silver and I like it..have had no issues with it..