Jump to content

frankd

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,140

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by frankd

  1. frankd
    It switches to cassette when you insert a cassette. Frank D
  2. frankd
    What year is your bike?? If it's a MkII, there is a filter mounted to the front side of the compartment the radio is in. I seem to remember there are 5 wires on the filter. The black is ground. One wire is battery in, another battery out (used for memory--should be 'hot' all the time) and for the last 2, one is power input to the filter, the last is output from the filter. These should be 'hot' when the key is in ACC or ON. You can measure here if you want to verify that the radio is getting power. If your bike is a Mk I, unplug the connector on the bottom of the cassette deck. One of the pins next to the notch are 12V. One post on the site has it listed as pin 1, but my notes from when I installed my IPOD show it as pin 6. It'll be easy to see if one of the pins next to the notch are hot though (key on ACC or ON). Frank KA9J
  3. frankd
    Gary, I sent you a Pay Pal last Sunday....Look forward to receiving the great looking wrench!! Thanks, Frank D.
  4. frankd
    I've got my 89 in pieces--it's winter and a great time to do Preventative Maintenance. I pulled the shaft drive apart to grease the front spline. Is there any reason for me to pull the shaft out of the gearbox and lube the rear spline?? Or is the designed lube flow (from the gearbox) just fine and never given anybody a problem?? If I pull it apart, do I just take the snap ring off and slide the washer off? Frank
  5. frankd
    In addition to all the other good advice you received, I have a question to ask you. Is the bike warmed up?? What is the temperature where you were running it? As already mentioned, make sure the air cleaner top is on. These bikes need this to run properly. Frank
  6. frankd
    I found my notes and they had the pinout of the DIN connector that goes into the cassette deck. If you want to leave the connector on your cable you can purchase an 8 pin DIN female connector from NKCelectronics.com--the stock # is CON-0008. The pin location is for the cassette deck socket and the back side (where you solder the wires) of the connector. If you look into the plug, remember the rotation is reversed. The pins are numbered--verify that you are using the correct pin by looking at the numbers. Frank D.
  7. frankd
    I found my notes and they had the pinout of the DIN connector that goes into the cassette deck. If you want to leave the connector on your cable you can purchase an 8 pin DIN female connector from NKCelectronics.com--the stock # is CON-0008. The pin location is for the cassette deck socket and the back side (where you solder the wires) of the connector. If you look into the plug, remember the rotation is reversed. The pins are numbered--verify that you are using the correct pin by looking at the numbers. Frank D.
  8. frankd
    You didn't mention what year your bike is, but.....On my 83 when I had the stock fork springs, I used to run it at about 14#. After I converted the forks to Progressive springs, I ran it without any air pressure. If you have a Mark II (86-93) I think you will want a little less air pressure. The rear suspension--I used to run it about 50# for normal use, and right up to the maximum (72#) for 2 up riding with over full bags and trunk. The black disk is for rear suspension damping. I'd use 2 or 3 for normal riding and 3 or 4 for 2 up full luggage. Be careful not to use too much air pressure in either end. Back when I used to fill my forks, I'd set the regulator on my air compressor for about 15-18#. For the rear, I'd set it to just above where I wanted to end up. When you pull the air hose off the fitting, do it quickly so you loose the minimum air pressure. Frank D.
  9. frankd
    Fry's has a 3PDT switch that could be used to eliminate the relay and diode. Connect the white and gray wires to one set of normally open contacts, and switch the IPOD audio with a pair of normally closed contacts. Frank D. http://www.frys.com/product/2860844#detailed
  10. frankd
    Fry's has a 3PDT switch that could be used to eliminate the relay and diode. Connect the white and gray wires to one set of normally open contacts, and switch the IPOD audio with a pair of normally closed contacts. Frank D. http://www.frys.com/product/2860844#detailed
  11. frankd
    Yes, the print for the tape player wiring on this site isn't quite correct. I also experienced low audio when I used what's shown. However, the correct leads are present in the cable to the tape player. I had no use for my cassette deck, so I completely removed it. A Sawzall with a little help from a hack saw will remove the pieces you don't need. Then I used an aluminum plate and a couple of small pieces of aluminum angle held together with some 6x32 screws and nuts. I used locking nuts where possible, but on the sides I had to keep it narrow so that it'd fit back in the bike, so I used regular nuts and some Lock-tite. I found that the blue and brown leads in the cable to the tape deck where the ones I needed for good audio. I have no idea what pins on the round connector you'd use, but I can tell you this......On the bottom (smaller) of the 2 system connectors, the blue wire is pin 3, the brown wire is pin 5, and ground is pin 7. If you want to use the round connector, just use an ohmmeter to find what pins on the round connector are attached to pins 3, 5, and 7 of the bottom system connector. The white wire in the cable is +12V, and the gray wire is the wire used to enable the tuner. I used a DPDT relay (Radio Shack 275-249) to turn the IPOD audio off when using the radio. Before I did this, if you left the IPOD on and switched the radio on, you heard both out of the speakers. I connected a diode (RS 276-1102 or 276-1101 or equiv) to protect the radio's switching circuit from the spike that is created when the relay is dropped out. Connect the diode so that the band on the diode is attached to the lead that is connected to the switch (positive). My wife found a hard plastic case for the IPOD that would allow Velcro to stick to it. The other half of the Velcro is stuck to the aluminum plate and this keeps the IPOD from bouncing around. With the IPOD equalization set to FLAT the treble was pretty hot. I switched it to SMALL SPEAKERS and it sounded much better. Now the IPOD works GREAT!!!! FrankD
  12. frankd
    Yes, the print for the tape player wiring on this site isn't quite correct. I also experienced low audio when I used what's shown. However, the correct leads are present in the cable to the tape player. I had no use for my cassette deck, so I completely removed it. A Sawzall with a little help from a hack saw will remove the pieces you don't need. Then I used an aluminum plate and a couple of small pieces of aluminum angle held together with some 6x32 screws and nuts. I used locking nuts where possible, but on the sides I had to keep it narrow so that it'd fit back in the bike, so I used regular nuts and some Lock-tite. I found that the blue and brown leads in the cable to the tape deck where the ones I needed for good audio. I have no idea what pins on the round connector you'd use, but I can tell you this......On the bottom (smaller) of the 2 system connectors, the blue wire is pin 3, the brown wire is pin 5, and ground is pin 7. If you want to use the round connector, just use an ohmmeter to find what pins on the round connector are attached to pins 3, 5, and 7 of the bottom system connector. The white wire in the cable is +12V, and the gray wire is the wire used to enable the tuner. I used a DPDT relay (Radio Shack 275-249) to turn the IPOD audio off when using the radio. Before I did this, if you left the IPOD on and switched the radio on, you heard both out of the speakers. I connected a diode (RS 276-1102 or 276-1101 or equiv) to protect the radio's switching circuit from the spike that is created when the relay is dropped out. Connect the diode so that the band on the diode is attached to the lead that is connected to the switch (positive). My wife found a hard plastic case for the IPOD that would allow Velcro to stick to it. The other half of the Velcro is stuck to the aluminum plate and this keeps the IPOD from bouncing around. With the IPOD equalization set to FLAT the treble was pretty hot. I switched it to SMALL SPEAKERS and it sounded much better. Now the IPOD works GREAT!!!! FrankD
  13. frankd
    My 83 has had the same problem for a couple of years. Before I gave it to my brother last year, I put a complete low mileage used clutch assembly in with brand new springs. I de-glazed the metal plates, replaced the clutch basket and everything else off the low mileage clutch. It got a little better, but not much. Now my brother says it's gotten worse. My thoughts are to shim the clutch springs (it's an 83 with the conventional springs--not the diaphram sprng like the 89) or replace the clutch cylinder. The clutch fluid has been several times over the years. Any other ideas?? Frank
  14. frankd
    That depends....if they don't fire at idle, but come to life when you restrict the airflow, it sounds like there is a plugged idle passage. If the carbs weren't drained when it was stored the gasoline in the bowls would have evaporated, leaving deposits. These deposits would plug the carb jets and passages, restricting the fuel flow and leaning the mixture. I'm being kind by using the word "deposits". My brother had my old XS-750 which he let sit with fuel in the carb bowls. I pulled the carbs and found that the carb bowls were lined with a green crud. Tidy bowl toliet cleaner will disolve most of the crud. Frank D.
  15. frankd
    I believe the first Gen. audio amplifier is rated @ 12 watts/channel. The original speakers were 4 ohm, so if you install speakers with a 8 ohm impedance your output power will decrease somewhat. Judging by how loud mine will go, I'd guess that the actual output power is a little higher than 12 watts. Frank D.
  16. frankd
    TCI module going bad, trashed spark plugs, carb. diaphrams bad, water in gas, bad spark plug wires. Does it miss on all 4 cylinders? Did it start missing at 6,000 or was it higher at first?
  17. frankd
    Rock the kill switch back and forth a couple of times. You can tell if it's the kill switch causing your problem if you turn the cruise control on and watch the "ON" light. The kill switch also controls the power to the cruise control. Frank
  18. frankd
    Barbara has been harping that she wants to take this cruise for a couple of years now, so I guess that means that we're interested. Would the travel agent that arranges this group cruise be able to arrange our connecting flights, or would we take care of that ourselves?? Frank
  19. frankd
    If you notice, when he had the RPMs up, it sounded a bit better, but down low it sounds terrible. There is that noise @ 2500 RPM that concerns me, and I agree the RPMs shouldn't have dropped off that fast when he closed the throttle. The motor was cold, but at idle it sure sounds like it has a miss. Also, he had the radio blasting away while he started the motor. Was he trying to disguise the way the motor sounds?? Why couldn't he sell a nice looking bike like that with only 35K? I also say to pass this motor up. Frank
  20. frankd
    83's only. I replaced the broken frame on my 83 with one from an 84. It was built to be much stronger in the area that broke on my 83. Frank
  21. frankd
    I've used epoxy and it's pretty good for Venture plastic repair. The best way I've found is to rough up the plastic and clean it with alcohol to remove any traces of grease or oil. Then put a thin layer of regular epoxy over the defect. This bonds well, but lacks the strength needed to survive. After it cures, I like to add a thick layer of the epoxy that comes in a roll and the hardener is in the center. You cut off what you need and then knead the epoxy and after it's mixed you apply it over the ordinary epoxy. This adds the strength needed to stay together. The plastic on a first gen Venture is ABS. I've used ABS glue and had fair results. However the absolute best way I've found it to use PLASTEX. It works as well as this video shows. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-9209022121022498415# Frank
  22. frankd
    Yes, she has been synced. No idea how old the plugs are, but as of Thursday there's a new set in the saddle bag. I know she needs plugs and I'll put them in this week if I get a chance. I'm out of town now (car trip) and should get home Monday. Frank
  23. frankd
    I usually got about 20-22K miles from a set of Dunlop Touring Elite IIs--The back would be just about bald and the front would have a little bit of thread left. My last set of Avons lasted about 26K front. The back is a little newer (nail in the original one) and has about 18K and counting. This is on the 1200. My 1300 Gen 1 had a Dunlop 404 on the back, and from what the guy I bought it from said it had about 7500 miles on it. It was too worn for the long trip we had planned so I put an Avon on it. BTW, the front is a Bridgestone and has about 15K. It should make about 18-20K or another 5,000 miles. If he was surprised at 16K, he'd be shocked at how long some of us get out of tires.
  24. frankd
    It's definetly lean, and it's OK just above idle. When it goes a little lean is when you pull out on the main highway (with a cold motor) and roll the throttle on. I intend to checking the carb diaphrams this winter. It's good to hear that other 1300s are cold blooded. My 1200 isn't cold blooded at all, but this 1300 sure is. When I was pulling away from my work parking spot today (70 degrees) I started it up with no choke. It drove away fine, but for the heck of it I gave it about 1/2 throttle after about 3 minutes of running. All 4 cylinders bogged and went completely dead. A couple of cylinders also belched out the tail pipe. In a couple minutes more, it was fine.
  25. frankd
    My 89 is a little lean at light throttle. When I test rode the bike before I purchased it, it appeared to be fine. However, when I started to service it, I found the air cleaner was probably the original and extremely dirty. I installed a K&N and then I notice that if the bike wasn't completely warmed up it would bog a bit at light-medium throttle. If you opened the throttle, it was fine. Idle was fine as was response off of idle. The lean condition was only noticable for a minute or two after you pulled away with a cold engine. The bike has about 37,000 miles on it now, and runs great. I've set the idle mixture and the bike idles's great now. Of course, I've also synced the carbs. Whatever is wrong is on all 4 cylinders because when it bogs, all 4 bog. Of course it tends to fart out the exhaust when this happens also. When I bought the bike it had cut out mufflers. I've replace them with stockers and also replaced the baffle chamber with a known good one. My gas mileage is a touch less than 40 MPG @ 75 mph indicated (72 GPS). When I rode a little slower for a tank, it gave me 46.5MPG. This is with loaded bags and 2 up. This morning it was about 55 degrees F. here and the bog was really bad. I believe I need to raise the needles a little, but I see that Mk II's aren't adjustable as the 1200's were. I know everybody else has rich carbs. My 83 was on the rich side. You'd start than one up with a little choke in cold weather. Then pull away with the chock on a bit and turn it off after you were moving. It would run great no matter how cold it was. Not this 1300....Anybody else had this problem or have any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...