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frankd

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Everything posted by frankd

  1. frankd
    Jeff, Welcome to the site.... Yes, it looks like you've got the gears installed correctly. Why did you pull the left cover in the first place? Frank D.
  2. frankd
    Jay, Progressive springs are great, my 83 has them and with zero air pressure they don't bottom. However, if you are holding the brake lever and pushing the bike forward with the key off, your anti dive won't work. Turn the key on and try it again. Also did you put in the proper amount of fork oil in each fork tube? The Mk I fork springs were worse than the Mk II springs. From the very beginning, on my 83 I had to run maximum air pressure with the stock springs and it still bottomed out a lot. On my 89, I run about 15# air pressure, and the stock springs work great. Frank D.
  3. frankd
    If I understand correctly, you unplugged the flasher assembly, made some tests, plugged it back in, and now it starts?? If that is 100% accurate, then there is an excellent chance one of the connections in the plug wasn't making, and when you put the plug back in the module it either scrapped some of the oxide off, or now it's in a slightly different position. I think I'd remove the plug and replace it about 10 times, (to remove more of the oxide coating on the pins), and then put some di-electric grease (available at auto parts stores--Autozone etc.) to keep the atmosphere off the pins (to prevent oxidation) and give it a try. Now, there is a chance that the problem is inside the flasher module. Maybe it has a bad solder connection and moving it around caused it to make again. Nobody else has had that trouble (that I know of). If you want to be covered in case it quits again when you are away from home, you could splice into the blue/white wire coming out of the starter solenoid, run it and another wire into one of your compartments in your fairing. Ground the other wire, and connect a pushbutton switch to the wires (A normally open contact). This will give you a backup. If whatever is wrong with your flasher assembly crops up again, you can open the compartment, turn the key ON and push the pushbutton and your bike will crank.
  4. frankd
    I've got a set that have been modified that came on my 89 when I bought it. If you want to trade them for your stock mufflers, I'd be happy to make both of us happy. What year is your bike?? Frank D.
  5. frankd
    Dingy, a long message from a 'droid!!!! What is TapTalk?? Put one jumper (clip lead) from 12V+ to the R/W terminal, Put another jumper (clip lead) from 12V- to the B/Y terminal. You should hear a faint click when coil energizes. You may not though, this is relay is buried in this assembly, next check will confirm it is working or not. Or cycle the KILL switch while holding your other hand on the Flasher Assy.===you should feel it click as the coil is energized and released. I'd say you have 2 possibilities. 1. You have a bad connection at the connector. Slide it on and off a few times and see if that cures your problem. 2. The SCCOR relay has an open coil or bad contacts and you have to replace the Flasher relay ASSY. You've got the proper voltages to pick up the coil, but the contacts are still open. You should have 12 volts on both blue/white wires. I just went out to the garage and with the bike (89) in neutral, I can hear 2 relays close when I turn the key on (SCCOR and sidestand relay). When I put it in gear and the sidestand is down, I can hear only one relay pick up (SCCOR). If you'd rather, you can turn the key on and rock the kill switch, it acts the same. (oops....I just remembered 83's are different than 84 & 85's which are different from MkII's.....The MkII's have a seperate SCCOR which may make more noise when they pick up. You may not hear your's pick up, but you should feel it though.) Frank D.
  6. frankd
    Your findings on the starter pushbutton....There are 2 switches in the pushbutton, one to turn off the headlight while cranking, and another that picks up the starter solenoid. The voltage you measure is on the headlight half. On the other half, you have a black, which is ground (and measures zero volts) and the blue/white, which should have 12 volts on it...our first clue. The two relays you found appear to be the Fan relay and the Sidestand relay. There are at least 2 more relays you haven't found. The 84 circuit diagram shows the one we're looking for is on the 'Flasher relay Assembly' and it has 2 relays ---starting circuit cutoff relay, and the flasher relay. It also has the canceling unit (for the turn signals) on it. I have no idea exactly where it's located because the only Venture I've taken completely apart and put together is an 83, and that doesn't have the same wiring and relays. You're looking for a device that has 3 boxes on it, and it'll be in the headlight bucket somewhere. You're looking for a relay that has a Red/White, a Black/Yellow, and 2 Blue/white wires. We need to measure those voltages because it's looking like your Starting circuit cutoff relay is bad!! Anybody know where the Flasher Relay Assembly is located?? Frank D.
  7. frankd
    Thanks for the suggestions. After writing the plea for help and walking away from my computer, it dawned on me to flush the cookies and cache. I did and it logged right in. Then I saw that you recommended the same thing. Thanks!!!! Frank
  8. frankd
    Internet Explorer had been working just fine with this site, but a couple of days ago it decided that it didn't want to log in here anymore. Firefox still works great, and from my work computer (also IE) it logs in fine. When I try to log in with IE on this computer I get the message Invalid Redirect URL ( http://venturerider.org./modules/Jig/index.php?&) Any ideas?? Frank D.
  9. frankd
    Dale, The 83's and the 84&5's are wired different, so this won't be the problem here. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    Gary, I'm pretty sure that Dave was talking about the L/W wire from the solenoid, not the one to the start switch. Dave---Measure the voltage (ground the negative meter lead) at the L/W wire to start pushbutton. You should have 12 volts with the button released, and zero volts when you push the button. There are several relays in the headlight bucket, and you need to make sure you have the correct one. It should have 2 L/W wires, 1 R/W (Red with white stripe), and 1 B/W (black with yellow stripe). You should have 12 volts on the R/W wire, and almost zero (actually about .6 volts) on the B/Y. You also should have 12 V on both L/W wires until you push the start button, and then both should go to zero. Let me know what you read and I'll tell you what's wrong. Frank D.
  11. frankd
    Dave, Please don't just buy parts to replace randomly....I'll help you find the problem. I 'assume' that you got it to crank by jumping the small L/W (blue with a white stripe) that goes to the new solenoid to ground. Is this correct?? If so, does your green neutral light work?? Do you have a test light or voltmeter? Frank D.
  12. frankd
    Early in the morning look carefully and determine exactly where it's leaking from. Right up from the puddle, you should see gree seepage. First on my 83, I had the thermostat bypass valve (the valve we turn to bleed the air out after you change the coolant) leaking... changed the O ring and everything was fine for a lot of years. Then it started leaking a little bit, but only on cool nights. The O ring the the thermostat housing was leaking. The Yamaha o ring is pretty thin, so I put in an O ring that was slightly thicker. Problem cured. My 89 had a leaking thermostat housing also, so I changed the O ring....no help. I replaced the thermostat housing. Ok for a couple of months, and then it started leaking there again. I made small metal pieces that would fit under the housing bolts and spread the load. This seems to have cured this leak. There are a lot of O rings in the cooling system, and it's a lot easier to cure if you know what's leaking. Frank
  13. frankd
    Also make sure you have your gas petcock on "reserve" so all of the gas in the tank can flow out. If you have it in the 'on' position, you could be down near that level, and if you have the bike on the side stand, the gas may not flow out of the tank.
  14. frankd
    Prayers sent Frank
  15. frankd
    Yamaha has used straight cut clutch drive gears for a long time, and yes, they've all made noise to varying degrees. Each one sings a different song. My 89 sings a little here and there, my 83 sings a bit louder, but only at one RPM, and my XS-750 used to sing a little bit also. However, none of them were/are loud enough to be annoying. Frank D.
  16. frankd
    It sure is pretty! Tom, the only negative thing I can say is that the XS-750, 850, and 11's have 2 of the same problems that the Mk I first gens have....the soft 2nd gear thrust washer and the driveshaft coupling that you have to pull apart every 10K and grease. If the previous owner can tell you that the driveshaft coupling has been PM'd correctly (not greased via the zerk fitting like we thought you should be doing) go for it. The XS-11's were fun bikes. Frank D.
  17. frankd
    Guys, the problem bike is an 84, and the 84 & 85 Vr have the Red/white wire connected to the 'kill switch' and then on blue/white wire first you have the contacts in the 'starter circuit cut off relay' and then after that the starter pushbutton. On 83's the starter circuit cut off relay is on the red/white, and the only thing that's in the blue/white wire is the starter pushbutton. On the Mk II's the only small wire that's coming out of the solenoid is the blue/white wire and all control is on it. The positive side of the solenoid coil is tied directly to the positive battery lead side of the solenoid. We have to make sure we're all talking about the 84 & 85 wiring.
  18. frankd
    Because you have 12V on the Blue/white wire, the solenoid is PROBABLY good. Verify this by grounding the blue/white wire with the key ON---if the solenoid is good, it'll crank. If the solenoid is good, the next item is the STARTING CIRCUIT CUT-OFF RELAY must be picked up. On my 83, this was in the headlight bucket. To pick up this relay, you must be in neutral or have the clutch in (You do have it on the center stand with the side stand up, the bike and the bike in neutral don't you??). Is your neutral light 'ON'? The starting circuit cut-off relay is on a board that also has the flasher relay and the turnsignal canceling unit on it. Make sure the relay is all the way installed and hasn't shaken out of it's socket. If the starting ciruit cut=off relay is picked up, the only other potential problem is the start push button. If you want to check that easily, take it apart, turn the key on (kill switch ON) and ground the blue/white wire that goes to the pushbutton switch. Frank
  19. frankd
    First off, anybody that is troubleshooting the starter circuitry, make sure you have the correct schematic in front of you. 83's are different than 84 & 85's which are different than MkII bikes. Eddie, it looks like that's where this one is going also!! Dave---Now that I have an 84-85 wiring diagram in front of me (Thanks Dingy), you have a small red/white and a small blue/white wire coming out of your solenoid and going to a plug. Ground the black lead of your meter, and measure the voltage on the red/white wire. With the key and the kill switch 'on', you should have 12 volts. You probably will, because you proved your bike will run OK. Now, connect to the blue/white wire and follow what I said above. You should have 12 volts until you push the start button, and then it should go to zero. You may be able to push the red meter probe into the end of the connector or you can puncture the wire with a straight pin and tape or seal the puncture after we're through Let me know what you find, and we'll proceed from there. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    Well, I'm at work and I don't have a Mk1 wiring diagram here, so I used the Mk2 diagram I have here on my computer. I went on E-bay to see what you would have to go through to get to the blue/white wire while it's connected to the bike. It turns out that the Mk1 and the Mk2 1st Gens. use different solenoids. Yours has a blue and red wire coming out of it, not a blue/white. I will have to look at my 83 manual when I get home and let you know what to measure where. Frank D.
  21. frankd
    OK, glad you got it home. Take your voltmeter (or a test light) ground one lead. Connect the other lead (positive, if you're using an analog meter) to the starter solenoid small blue/white (blue with a white tracer) wire. Even with the key off, you should have 12V there. If you do, turn the key on (and be on the center stand with the side stand up, and in neutral) and the voltage should drop to zero. If you don't have 12 volts on the blue/white wire, and you do on the battery lead, your solenoid is bad (coil is probably open). If you do have 12 volts on the blue/white wire and it doesn't go to zero when you push the start pushbutton, there are several other possibilites, and we'll have to walk our way through (no problem). Frank D.
  22. frankd
    No, because the bike does crank slowly when you connect a jumper cable to the starter directly, it means that your starter is functional. Next you need to check the solenoid. As Skydoc has mentioned, solenoids do go bad. I've got a meeting to go to, but later I will tell you how to test the solenoid, but basically you need to measure with a voltmeter or a test light (to ground), and make sure that voltage is getting to the solenoid when you push the starter pushbutton. Frank D.
  23. frankd
    How many turns were the idle mixture adjustments open when the bike would start??
  24. frankd
    On my 83 I installed a gauge===when the engine was cold, the oil pressure would jump up to 70-80 PSIG as soon as it was started. When the motor and oil got hot, at idle you'd see about 5 PSIG, and about 45 PSIG @ 3,000 RPM. I have no ideal what it would be on a 2nd Gen, but I'd imagine it'd be close. Frank D.
  25. frankd
    have an 02 camaro.....on a battery tender.....still using the original battery..........i gotta add that i've only got 16,000 miles on the car so the battery hasn't seen lots of cycles.......but almost 10 years ?.... ...i say it's because of the tender.... Well, tenders are good for innactive batteries, and yes, I use them on some of my equipment, but.... I've got a 2001 Ford E-350 Van with a 6.8 liter V-10 with 63,000 miles on it. It is still on it's original battery (10 1/2 years). It's been 100% dead 3 times because of interior lights left on for weeks. It's gone for long periods of time (4-5 months) without being started. This left the battery so low that it had to be charged before it would crank the beast. Even with all of this the battery acts like it's still in good shape---it cranks over the V-10 great, but it has never had a tender hooked to it. In fact, Barb and I are leaving for Albequerque Thursday in it (1300 miles away). Of course, I'm taking my jumper cables with me ( I'm a bit paranoid). Obviously they are making batteries much better these days. Frank D.
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