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frankd

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Everything posted by frankd

  1. frankd
    Also, when the bike is in neutral, the clutch does NOT have to be pulled in.
  2. frankd
    I still use the OEM type filter on mine. The problem I see with it's more of a pain to change the OEM filter than a spin-on. I agree with Snaggletooth that it costs a bit more to change the OEM type filter than the spin ons, because a long, long time ago, the dealer I used to use charged $12 for the cartridge, and like Snaggletooth said, the O-ring was extra. Then I found out that you could by a Fram cartridge for it (the P/N is 6002) for about $5 at Farm & Fleet. I know that the Fram spin-ons have had a lot of bad press, but you can take a look at the cartridges and tell that they are made well.........no cardboard like the Fram spin ons. Auto Zone had it for about the same price, but I haven't seen them there lately. When Pioneer Motorsports was at maintenance days a couple of years ago, they had the genuine Yammie cartridges there for about $7, so I bought a few. I intended on picking up more Thursday, but the weather convinced us to leave for home from the motel, so that didn't happen. Another thing.....there is no need to change the O-ring, unless it gets damaged. I just keep a genuine Yammie spare O ring in my parts bin. Then I re-use the old one. I've been riding 1st Gens since 4/83, and before that I had an XS-750 that used the same filter. In all that time, I've only HAD to change the O ring 2 or 3 times. Just make sure the old O-ring is in the groove and use the old one. The last time I tried to use the O ring that comes with the Fram filter, it was a touch too big and wouldn't stay in the groove like the OEM O ring does. They may have fixed that problem. The bottom line....the spin on is easier to change. To put the OEM back on, you hold the filter housing in place with one hand, make sure the o-ring didn't fall out of the groove, and with the other hand, take your 3/8 ratchet with a 12 mm socket on it and start turning the mounting bolt. It's something you cuss at every time you do it. But I never bought a spin on adapter. Frank D.
  3. frankd
    This is a question to those that change their own tires. How do you recycle the used tires? What I have been doing is to wait until my son has a car headed for the junk yard, and just put it in the trunk. Trouble is, he hasn't had a car to junk lately. Frank D.
  4. frankd
    They both use the same starter clutch, and probably the same side cover gasket. Frank D.
  5. frankd
    What street is the root beer stand on?? Frank D.
  6. frankd
    The V-Max was the bike these were first installed on. Some of the bored out race VMax's couldn't live with the original starter clutches, so Dano and somebody else (Squidley???) came up with the redesigned clutch. I put one on my 89 Royale 2 years ago, and it hasn't missed a beat. Frank D.
  7. frankd
    Barb and I made it home about 6 CDT. We had a couple of light showers, and it looked real nasty when we were about 10 miles east of Joliet, but not much rain fell. We were in the same rest area that B2Dad and Pat were in in PA this morning, but left before they did. I guess the rain was right behind us. That New York group sure put on a heck of a rally. You all need to pat each other on the back!!!!! Thanks for a good time. Frank D.
  8. frankd
    Fantastic!! I agree about the 4 incandescent lights not being effective brake lights. I guess I've got another project!! Thanks, Frank D.
  9. frankd
    Tim, The temperature switch that controls the fan is on the right side of the motor, about even with the lower edge of the fairing. You will see two devices there, the one with 2 wires on it is your temperature gauge sensor, and the one with a single wire is the temperature switch---it'll have a blue/green wire, and it runs the fan by grounding this wire. Connect your new circuit to the blue/green wire, and design your circuit to ground this wire when you want the fan to run. One way to go would be to use a time delay relay. Then you could push the button and the fan would run for as long as you select (3-5 minutes?) and then shut off. If you need it again, just push the button again. That would be a lot simpler than a speed sensor. I did look and 12 volt time delay relays are available. If you decide to go this way, let me know and I'll help with selecting the relay. There are some on EBAY for about $7.50, but I'm not 100% sure they are exactly what we'd want yet. BTW, the turn signals don't turn off when you get above 25 MPH. They stay on until you've gone enough distance AND enough time has gone by since the signals were turned on. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    Yes, that would be what I'd do. I would then turn each screw in a little until the idle drops a little bit. That would put each cylinder on the lean side. Don't worry if the screws end up adjusted a little bit different from each other, the only important thing is that you can peak each cylinder. Frank D.
  11. frankd
    The oil will pump back into the stator area after you start the bike....as Dingy said, just make sure it isn't low on oil before you start it. Frank D.
  12. frankd
    You're welcome....glad to help. On the Mk I (83-85) the fan comes up just before the temperature needle gets to the top end of the green, and that's about 205 degrees. The gauge being that high concerns some, but that hot is no problem. Frank
  13. frankd
    I use my shop air compressor, but in a different way. My compressor has 2 air ports, one for full tank pressure (which is used to air tools and most projects) and another that has a regulator and a gauge in line. I just set the regulator to the maximum pressure I want and air the suspension up. Before I put the Progressive springs in the forks of the 83, I'd just set the regulator for 14#, and hold the air hose chuck on the fork fitting for a couple of seconds. I've also got a tire inflator with a pressure gauge on it, so I can also read the air pressure there. Then just pull the chuck off the fitting quickly. When I'd fill the rear suspension, I'd do it the same way, just set the regulator higher to the pressure I want to set it to. Frank D.
  14. frankd
    I get the impression that your fan runs all the time...is this the problem? The black wire to the fan is grounded (black wires are all ground) intentionally. The blue wire to the fan is switched 12 volt power----it's controlled by the Fan motor relay in the headlight bucket. This relay has a Blue, a blue with green stripe, and 2 red with white stripe wires. The Blue with green stripe wire goes to the temperature switch, and that's behind the right fairing. The switch grounds this wire when the temperature gets to about 204 degrees, and picks up the fan relay, which starts the fan. Some have installed auxillary switches that ground the blue/green wire, so make sure you don't have a switch turned on. Then, unplug the blue/green from the temperature switch. If the fan is still running, we'll go on from here. Frank D.
  15. frankd
    You need to compensate your ohm meter readings by subtracting the meter lead resistance. Put your digital meter back on ohms, and short the leads together. I suspect that it'll read about .3 ohms. So subtract that reading from the .7 ohm that you measured for the stator leads, and that will give your actual stator resistance. Also remember, the value in the manual is @ 68 degrees F. If the stator was warmer, the resistance will read slightly higher. It sounds like your stator is good. Frank D.
  16. frankd
    Carl---I checked the shift linkage and it's straight. I did see that I had the shift lever too high, and the rubber cover for the joint that connects the adjusting link (turnbuckle) to the shift lever was rubbing the middle gear cover. After I re-adjusted the linkage lower, it didn't bind in gear anymore. It still doesn't shift anywhere as easy as my 89 (56,000 miles) but it shifts. My brother picked it up tonight, but when time allows, I'll pull the clutch cover and look at the shift wheel and make sure everything is OK there. Frank
  17. frankd
    Thanks for the help all. Power Trippin----Yes, my brother needs to spend a lot more time working on the ol' girl. He did spend a couple of days with me, but he lives 160 miles away and isn't mechanically inclined. A great brother, but...... When I volunteered to fix a couple of things, I thought it'd be a stator and a Skydoc clutch kit. The list grew and grew and now I want it gone. Bkuhr-----I'd read those service bulletins that Dingy posted and a lot of good info there. When I read the one about adjusting the finger for the shift drum, I wished that I didn't have the clutch done already. DaCheeda----The clutch slave is free of air. I replaced the slave, and replaced all of the clutch fluid. I have a vacuum bleeder, so bleeding was easy. After this I bled it the normal method until all traces of bubbles were gone. Then a couple of days later I checked it again. Then after riding it some, I checked it again. NO more bubbles. THe clutch is disengaging completely about 1/2"-3/4" before the clutch lever gets to the end of it's travel. Checking this was the first thing I thought of, especially after replacing the slave cylinder and installing the Skydoc clutch kit. Friesman-----I'd already put a little heavy oil in the pivot, and it did help some. Per your suggestion, I put some spray grease in it yesterday. Rocket......Thanks for that info. The case isn't broken on this one, just worn out a bit. I figured that was where the heel/toe shifters had problems, but nice to know for sure. Carl-----Here from the computer, it sounds like this is what I'm dealing with. My brother is only about 150#, but I saw him get pretty violent on the shift lever. I will check this and see if it's the problem. I did find a new gasket for the middle gear cover when I was looking for other "spare parts" so I don't have to order another gasket before I take the cover off. If my son is free this morning, maybe we can lay the bike over on the right side and look up at the linkage from the bottom. I hope this is the problem...I hope this is the problem. BTW, I did notice that the shift lever did seem to be out of adjustment, and this would also point to this same thing. Of course, I've already re-adjusted the linkage to get it back where it belongs. Thanks, Frank D.
  18. frankd
    I've been working on the 83, the one my brother has been using. When it got here, it had only had the front brake working, a weak alternator, a big oil leak on the left side, and a slipping clutch. plus it had lots of other problems. The last 3 months, I've been working on it, and after fixing everything else and then rebuilding the rear master cylinder I finally took it for a good ride. Another problem has shown up. Sometimes it's real hard to downshift, especially from 4th to 3rd. When this happens, you have to let the clutch out a little and then it'll go. Before I thought of letting the clutch out a little to load 4th gear a little, I thought I might be limping home in 4th. I suppose I should mention that this thing has 140,000 miles on it and at 82K I fixed 2nd gear, but 3 years ago when I last saw it it shifted OK I should also mention that my brother isn't too gentle on the old girl---he likes to powershift, and I've seen him pushing hard on the shift lever. To fix the clutch, I installed a Skydoc spring and full inside clutch plate kit. Now the clutch doesn't slip and it does seem to be disengaging all the way when the lever is pulled in. In this project, I replaced the slave cylnder, and replaced all of the brake fluid. It's clean, fresh and completely bled. The clutch lever feels good, and is engaging at the correct point. When I did 2nd gear (10-12 years ago), I replaced the shift drum and 2nd gear, as per the Yammie service bulletin. I don't think I replaced the 4th gear shift fork, but I did replace 1st and 2nd gear shift forks I've checked the shift linkage----the hole in the left engine cover that the shift linkage shaft passes through is worn a bit, so it's sloppy and the pivot for the shift lever is a bit worn also, however there is no play in the linkage inside of the gearbox itself. I oiled the shift linkage and took it for another ride last night, and it was a lot better, but not correct. If I wanted to shift down from 5 to 3rd, sometimes I had to let the clutch out a little to get it to go from 4th to 3rd. BTW, neutral is a bit of a pain to get into. If you're moving, it'll go from 2nd to neutral fine. If you're stopped and in first, you have to let the clutch out a little briefly like you're taking off, and if you are pulling up on the shift lever when you pull the clutch back in, it'll go to neutral. I'm wondering if my brother didn't bend a shift lever because it feels as if the shift drum is hard to turn. Or, is it because of the 140K and almost 30 years, just worn out? I know that several riders that have heel/toe shifters installed have had something break....does anybody know what they break? The bike is rideable, but if something in the shift linkage is damaged and lets go, it could leave my brother stranded. Any ideas??? Frank D.
  19. frankd
    Except that things will be a lot safer for her in Shaumburg than in the neighborhood around the Cook County courthouse!!!! However traffic around Shaumburg will be heavy. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    They do be a company that values it's customers. When we bought the 89, it was the first bike we've ever had with an intercom/CB. We bought the J & M helmet speakers, microphones, and cables, and they worked great....for a year and a half. We were on a trip and one speaker started kicking out in my helmet, and I traced it down to the short cable between the helmet connector and the coil cord connector. I contacted them and they told me to send it to them with a copy of the receipt. In the mail in about a week was a new cable. Another year and half went by, and the other original cable went bad. Once again they told me to send it in with a copy of the receipt. I figured because they're warrantied for 2 years, and they were 3 years old, I'd have to pay for the new cable. No, they sent it to me under warranty. Frank
  21. frankd
    I did a malware test (Malwarebytes) first thing. BTW, I'm running XP. I also have the problem with Firefox, but not quite so bad. As suggested, I installed Chrome, and it works a lot faster. On this site, it does freeze but only for about 2 seconds. When it stops the microprocessor usage goes to 100%, and then back down when the computer unfreezes. It's very usable with Chrome, but it's not quite right. Frank
  22. frankd
    Gary, Thanks for your efforts to post these. I wonder if there were any more service bulletins for the 86-93's. Frank
  23. frankd
    Well, then what Grey Ghost says is 100% true. Open one of your turn signals and see if they are double filament bulbs. If not, you'll have to replace the turn signals themselves or replace just the lamp sockets, and then install double filament lamps. On a 1st Gen, the blue wire is hot when the key is on, and I'd bet that it's the same on a 2nd gen. On ours, the dimmer filament is for the always on parking lamps, and the brighter one is for the turn signals. I just did some research in the 2nd gen manuals....Yes, the 2nd gen uses the same blue wire that the 1st gens do. It's the same wire that goes to you tailight and also your dash board ilumination lights, so it should be easy to find. THe lamps you need are 12V 27/8W.
  24. frankd
    For the last couple of days, this site has been giving me the error message that A SCRIPT IN INTERNET EXPLORER IS RUNNING TOO SLOW, DO YOU WANT TO STOP RUNNING THAT SCRIPT? (YES or NO). Just before this comes up, my computer freezes for about 10 seconds. This happens every time I open a new page. Is anybody else having this problem? Frank D.
  25. frankd
    If I understand you correctly, you want to prevent the turn signals being lit up when the key is on, but to flash for the turn signals. Simple, just take out the turn signal lenses and cut (and tape) the blue wire going to the turn signal lamps. This will also eliminate the front parking lights (P on our ignition switches), but nobody uses those here. Frank D.
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