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frankd

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Everything posted by frankd

  1. Yes, according to Yamaha part numbers, they are different. Thanks for your offer though Frank
  2. It does say that for most carbs, but for the Venture, the website has an additional instruction. Yamaha Venture Notes: The 73 mm Mikuni Diaphragm fits the Venture models even with plastic slides. Remove the short metal tube from the plastic slide and remove the rings. Place the JBM Industries diaphragm on the metal tube, and then push tube into the plastic slide. Use Super Glue on metal tube. Frank
  3. I was installing my JBM carb diaphragms, and I got a little to energetic getting the metal ring out and a carb slide broke apart. Anybody have one that I can buy? The condition of the diaphragm isn't important, I've got the new one to install. It's for a 1st Gen, MK II (89). Thanks, Frank D.
  4. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71406 Sorry about that. I tried the other one right after I posted it, and yep...it didn't work. That's exactly when Barb put supper on the table, so I quickly tried to delete the message. It looks like I did something wrong though. Frank D.
  5. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=71406 Here you go....The one I'm talking about is the one about exhaust clamps and frame bolts, but they are all interesting reading!!! Frank
  6. jbmindustries.net and they cost $84 They were shipped in the mail, and here in 2 days, but they come from Ohio and I live in Illinois. I sent them an Email, and they sent me a Paypal invoice. Sirius (another place that a lot of Venturers buy diaphragms from) is out of stock until the end of the month. I haven't installed them yet, but they look good. Frank
  7. You'll probably find one of those screens that has broken loose at one end. Frank D.
  8. I had 3 diaphragms that had about a 3/32" hole. Patching them made a night and day difference. Frank D.
  9. I've asked the Lord to comfort your entire family and give them all strength. Frank D.
  10. DJ and Gary, If the exhaust chamber isn't the problem, consider the following. I've ridden my bike about 50 miles since I've fixed my carb diaphragms and I still can't get over how quiet and sweet it sounds. I had the 83 here a month ago, and everytime I road it, I couldn't get over how smooth it sounded. My 89 sounded harsh and rough by comparison. But the kicker was when I had the temporary repairs done to my diaphragms done (3 had holes), when I started it back up it sounded like it was coming apart when it was idling. I had to convince myself that nothing was wrong with the motor, that it must be the carbs I just messed with. I hooked up the vacuum gauges to sync. the carbs, and both right cylinders had real high vacuum--I had to open up those carbs quite a bit to sync it. With all 4 cylinders equal, it sounded great. It's a lot quieter going down the road @ 65 MPH also. When all 4 cylinders aren't firing equally, the motor speeds up when a strong one hits, and then slows down when the weak one(s) fire. This causes rapid speed changes in the motor, and the play in everything spining going back and forth makes strange noises. When you have 4 equal cylinders, the speed doesn't change up and down as much. Check the carb syncronization, and if it's off more than a little, check the diaphragms. It's a small thing to do considering all the time you've spent already. Frank D.
  11. Check your carb. diaphragms for holes. Since I bought my 89, it's had bog (delay) when the bike was cold and you pulled out on the highway and opened the throttle 1/3-1/2 way open. The other day I pulled mine and had holes in 3 of them. I did the temporary repair with Plati-dip and this morning it was 53 degrees and when I pulled out I had immediate response. The warm response is much better also, not to mention it's faster, smoother and quieter than before. My new diaphragms arrived in today's mail, so I'll install them Monday. Frank D.
  12. TCI=Transistor Controlled Ignitor or your ignition module. I suspect the problem is more ignition that fuel because it does the same exact thing every time. And how does it know when your in 3rd gear and above. The only switches in the transmission are for neutral and 5th gear.
  13. I don't have a lot of experience in 2nd gens, but.... I looked through the electrical diagram and the maintenance manual. As you mentioned, the R/G wire goes straight to a source of power. It only goes to the speedometer and the radio. Does your radio work?? Any chance yoiu blew the fuse for the R/G wire? Are there any self-diagnostic lights on?? In the service manual at the end of chapter 8, it tells you all about the self diagnostic system. Does your speedometer work? What happens when you have the power ON the R/G wire when you start the bike?? In case something in the speedometer got out of step when you disconnected the R/G wire, you might try disconnecting the battery for a bit and then starting from scratch with the R/G wire connected normally. Frank D.
  14. A couple of weeks ago, Dingy posted some great 1st. Gen service bulletins. One of the items concerned the bolts that join the right lower section to the main frame. This is the section that you remove to pull the motor. While I was working on the 89 yesterday, I thught of this proceedure and decided to make sure mine were tight. I pulled the right footpeg bracket, and tightend the bolts.....mine were about 1/4-1/3 turn loose. I also checked the forward bolts, and 1 of them was a little loose. BTW, Yammie suggested that they'd be checked every time the bike was in for service. I didn't think the bolts were so loose that they'd cause a problem, but today I noticed that the bike seems to turn a bit better. Thanks Gary!! Frank D.
  15. Yesterday, I took it for a 20 mile test ride. After fixing the holes in the diaphragms, as I expected it was a lot smoother and somewhat faster. But the real surprise was how much quieter it was. I ordered a new set from JBM as Ben suggested, and hopefully they'll be in tomorrow's mail. If not, they should be here tomorrow. The new NGK plug caps were in today's mail, but I'll wait until I have the pastic off for the diaphragms to install them.
  16. A similiar thing happend to me, but it was 2 years ago. I was looking up parts for my Murray Rider mower, and up poped a message saying that they had a video for fixing Murray mowers. I pushed the button and they had me hooked. I think I got rid of the result with "AntiMalware (free)", but my computer still sort of worked. Until a couple of weeks ago, I'd been using Microsoft Security Essentials, but this computer started to get real slow. I did a full scan with Sescurity Essentials, but it found nothing. My provider is Comcast, and they provide Nortons for free. I loaded Nortons and did a scan and it says it found 10 items. Now my computer runs much faster. Security Essentials isn't as good as you'd expect from Microsoft, and after you get your computer running, you may want to try something else. There are a lot of free Anti-virus programs out there. Frank D.
  17. Bob, When you say that the 'old' regulator puts out 14.0V, do you mean that you tried it again now, or are you refering to what it did before you replaced it? Frank D.
  18. Twigg==I goofed with the name of the product I used. I should have said Plasti Dip, and I was surprised how flexible the diaphragms were after being sprayed. I really couldn't tell any difference. Frank
  19. Thanks Ben for that info. I sent them an Email and I should hear from them in the morning. Also, one more thing I found today......When I was on the right side pulling the rubber plugs to connect the vacuum gauges, I saw that the outer screw for one of the carb. holders had worked loose and the head was about 1/2" above the holder base. Before I put the plastic back on, I'm going to make sure that all 4 holders have both screws tight. Frank D.
  20. Adjusted the one tight intake valve on my 89, and figured that seeing that the Tupperware was all off, I may as well check the carb diaphrams. I had small holes in 3 of them---my bike only has 58K miles on it. I looked up Sirius and found that they were out of stock on diaphrams until the end of the month. While doing searches here on this site, I came across Snagletooth's message about using Plasti coat to make a temporary repair. Home Depot carries Plasti coat, so this morning I followed Snagletooths' proceedure and this afternoon I re-installed the sealed diaphrams. In addition to the Tupperware, both heat shields (the ones that are over each valve cover) were out, so it was real easy to change the spark plugs. Heck, I also found an open plug cap. I ordered replacements, but I took the bad one apart and convinced it to work by cleaning everything up. The resistance is a bit high (the resistor itself reads high), but it'll work until the new ones get here. Then the fun began. I started the bike up, and it sounded good when you opened the throttle, but it idled badly and slowly. I checked the carb sync, and it was all over the place. I synced the carbs (both on the right side were almost completely closed) and I had to slow the idle speed down quite a bit. I also had to adjust the idle mixture screws. Now it's idleing great. Those holes in the diaphrams sure had an effect on how the bike idled. BTW, I had adjusted the carb sync in May, and it was idleing what I thought was OK before I started on the diaphrams. Tomorrow morning I'll put it all back together and if it's not raining like they predict, I'll take it for a ride.
  21. You're making this way too hard!!!! Do an internet search (aka Google) for "discount yamaha parts" and a bunch of places will pop up. You order whatever you need and then the UPS man will knock on your door. Most have a parts fische online. However, for some reason, 89 Ventures aren't listed (that's what I ride also). Just look up 1988 Venture and you will be in business. 1990 would work also, but there are a few slight differences between an 89 & a 90. If you join this group ($12/year) there is a maintenance manual here you will have access to. Where do you live?
  22. Well, actually V7Goose's description of the process did it for me. Following some of his hints, I got the shim to come out easily. Although, I couldn't find his proceedure in the 1st Gen or the Gen. folders in the tech section. However, I did an advanced search for shim, and written by v7goose, and it appeared. It's for a 2nd gen, so it's probably in that folder. Joe, Your tip about holding it tight so it follows the cam better is also very good--Thanks. Now I've got to go to a dealer(actually a very good dealer, Rich's Yamaha in Lockport IL) and get a 285 or a 287 shim. The intake was a very loose .003", and it had a 290 shim. I had a 282, but that took it to a tight .006". When I purchased my 83 new, the mechanic at the dealer told me that Yammie had instructed them to set the valves at the tight end of spec, so I'll get a shim between 282 and 290. Frank D.
  23. I recently purchased a valve shim tool on flea bay, and when it arrived it has the original Yammie part number engraved on it. When I purchased it, I knew that I had 1 intake valve that was slightly tight, so today I dug in. Now, I've changed shims before, but I've never used the correct tool. I figured that using it would be straighforward....that didn't work though. I looked in the online manual and found the proceedure. Heck, I even printed the 2 pages and took them out to the garage. I can get it to push the valve down some, but not enough to get the shim out of the bucket. The shim is loose and will come up some, but not enough to come out. The tool is hitting part of the head casting when it gets about 30 degrees past straight up and it's pushing on the bucket, not the shim. Does it matter which way you use the tool? What I mean is that you can use it on the outside of the V (in my case, towards the carb for an intake valve OR with the tool in the inside, or forward of the camshaft. It's to the point the maybe I'm doing something wrong, or maybe the tool isn't made correctly. Frank D.
  24. Most (but not all) of the Avon tires I've used were real well balanced. I used to take off the weights before starting to balance the tires, but I found that I ended up putting the same amount in the same place. Since then, I check the balance first, and then if it's wrong, I remove the weights and start fresh. That would mean that the rim is out of balance, not the tire. The Dunlop E2's I used prior to the Avons had a dot that showed the heavy point, and that is supposed to be aligned with the valve stem. Avon claimed that they don't need a dot because their tires don't have spot that's much heavier. How well balanced are the MIchelin tires? Frank D.
  25. Gary, It says that 2nd gear was repaired in 1987. I've got a service bulletin that says that it was done half way through the 1985 model. I wonder if they fixed it twice?? Frank D.
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