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frankd

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  1. frankd
    Rick, Thanks for the explanation. Actually, I'm big on most aspects of science, but chemistry is my weakest. However, my daughter has a masters degree in chemistry and her husband has his doctorate, and they'll be spending a week here during the Christmas holiday. Also, your explanation was well written and I understood it well enough to get an idea of what's going on. However, you mentioned that something happens when you use too much Stabil. What? How much would you have to use to create a problem? When I read their website, I saw that Stabil has a 2 year shelve life. I'd guess that the ispropyl alcohol evaporates and the product isn't as effective? Thanks again!! Frank
  2. frankd
    Here is a site that's already measured the dipstick. Use the short end, and the lube should be between the 2 ridges. The low level is 27mm, and full is 25mm which is a touch less than an inch. However, make sure you can get the fill cap loose before you remove the drain plug. The housing is aluminum and the plug is steel and tend to be a bit hard to remove. Before you strip out the plug, you may have to tap the plug with a hammer or warm up the housing around the plug with a hot air gun or a propane torch. http://www.xs1100.co.uk/dipstick.htm The Yammie p/n is 2H7-2815A-00-00, but the online page at my local dealer says it's not available. If you take the p/n to your local dealer, they can search online and see which dealers still have it in stock. Then you can call one and get it shipped to you. Of course, it could be gone everywhere, they were used in a lot of bikes. Frank
  3. frankd
    Gentlemen, I've read the Stabil website this afternoon looking for my answer (not there), and yes, I've installed it correctly and run it into the carbs for many years, but what I was asking was HOW it works. I think somebody big on chemistry could provide the answer I'm looking for. I mean, exactly how does it keep the gas fresh? Inquiring minds want to know. Frank
  4. frankd
    In the genuine Yammie took kit, there is a plastic dipstick....do you have it?? One end is used for the XS-750, 850, and 1100's for the middle gear unit, but it's not used on the Venture. The short end is used for all the shaft units. If you don't have it, I can measure the one that I have and get back to you. 80w-90 is called for, but I use synthetic in both my 83 and the 89 (Mk II's have a different unit). I don't remember how much exactly because I've never measured it. You just fill it to the proper level on the dipstick. Frank
  5. frankd
    Does anybody know what exactly Stabil does to gasoline so that it doesn't go bad? I know that it makes some bikes run a bit funny....why does this happen? Frank D.
  6. frankd
    I bought the ball studs from McMaster-Carr. I found that the distance from the base to the bottom of the ball wasn't quite long enough, so I had a machinist friend put them in a lathe and cut the ball side of the shank and base down. In effect the hex base is thinner now, and the material was removed from the ball side. The ball is also a touch larger than the Yammie tab. Frank
  7. frankd
    After I 'disturbed' the carb drain screws, 3 of them leaked. The O rings had hardened and needed to be replaced. This can be done with the carbs on the bike. Now, if you need to replace them, the part number listed on the carb. page fische is wrong--the O ring listed is about 1" diameter!! I don't have the correct p/n because when I mentioned to dealer parts counter girl that it was wrong, she called a friend of hers at Yamaha parts and then went into the back room and came out with an envelope of the correct O rings. I also found out that the metric O ring kit you get at Harbor Freight has the corrects size in it (2nd from smallest, P4 I think). After I took the carbs apart to adjust the floats, I had to change the O rings under the float bowl cover also. Frank
  8. frankd
  9. frankd
    Put a fresh set of spark plugs in it and odds are it will start right up. On my 83, the older the plugs get, the more finicky it gets to start. New plugs and it starts much better. Fresh plugs fire at a lower voltage than used plugs. Now my 89 starts great no matter how cold it is even with 20K on the plugs, but the 83 never did. Frank D.
  10. frankd
    Look at this and see how this guy stores his motorcycles and 4 wheelers. http://www.flixxy.com/5-million-dollar-underground-garage.htm
  11. frankd
    Well, I've got the carb. float adjustment done and also the fork rebuild, but I've got a couple more. My water pump shaft seal is seeping, and maybe I'll change the fuseblock.
  12. frankd
    I installed new float needles, and Murphy's law reached out and grabbed me again. The float cover O rings had been re-sealing just fine, but after putting the new needles in, one cover leaked pretty bad. I ordered and received a new O ring for it, and I decided to check the other carbs more carefully.....2 of the others were seeping. I ordered and installed 3 more O rings. I put the carb rack back together, installed the carbs on the bike, synced the carbs, and re-adjusted the idle mixture(s). Then I decided that seeing that I had the left fairing half off already and I planned on rebuilding the forks this winter, it made sense to do it before I put all the Tupperware back on. After all, I had the parts in the drawer....slightly wrong. I only had 1 lower bushing (Yammie calls this a piston?) I ordered another lower bushing and then as many probably saw, Yammie's parts computer was down for almost 2 days. It came in Tuesday and I finished it yesterday (Wednesday). I took it for a ride yesterday and everything seemed fine----No more flooding and it ran great. This morning (Thanksgiving) I took it for a longer ride. The gas mileage seems to be a little better. I rode it hard and it still gave a little over 40MPG and the temperature was about 50 degrees, and today it is extremely windy. If the weather report is correct, it'll be a while before I can take a longer ride. The throttle feels a lot crisper than before I started, so the gas mileage should be fine. Thanks everybody for your help! Happy Thanksgiving Frank D.
  13. frankd
    After you get it on the center stand, you can service the things you have planned one end at a time. On the center stand, the rear wheel will be off the ground, so servicing the back is easy. However, there is another trick that's nice to know.....To get the back tire off while the bike is just on the center stand you have to either remove the rear fender (4 bolts) OR you can lift the bike a little higher. Now, I will also say that I'm not small, but Mk I bikes are easier to get on the center stand than MK II's. MK II's are heavier in the back because of the bigger bags and trunk and the rear crash bar is different and harder to grab. On your MK I, if you take the travel trunk and saddle bags off, it will be a bit easier to get on the center stand. With your left hand, grab the left handle bar grip. With your right, grab the left-rear crash bar. With your right foot, push the center stand down, and when you get to the point that the center stand touches, rock the bike a little left and right to make sure you have the bike level and both legs on the center stand are touching the ground. As you have been told, just push the center stand through the garage floor and the bike will be on the center stand. To avoid removing the rear fender on a MK I, I put a 3" piece of wood on the ground and put the center stand on it. Then my son and I (one on each side) lift the bike on the center stand. This way there is enough height to remove the tire without removing the rear fender. After you are finished with the rear, you can do the front. With the bike on the center stand (for this you want the center stand on the garage floor, not on the wood) take a small scrap of wood, and a floor jack or a bottle jack. Just behind the oil filter, use the scrap piece of wood between the oil pan and the jack, and then lift the front of the bike. I raise the front until the rear tire is on the ground because the bike will be more stable.
  14. frankd
    Something even better will be gone. During the warm weather when I rode the bike to work, I used to go right by the Wonder Bread factory (Rte. 45 & I-55, just SW of Chicago). The smell of bread baking was fantastic. For me, that is a greater loss than Twinkies. Frank D.
  15. frankd
    Sorry the pictures didn't show, I guess they were to big for the site. They were in the message when I posted it, but---- OK on a pickup hitting the bear. That does make more sense because the bear was HUGE!!!! Frank
  16. frankd
    I just received this from a friend and I thought some of you would be interested..... Subject: Fwd: Don't go Bear Hunting with a Harley Huge Grizzly killed by motorcycle… Now those are claws!!!!!! Can't you just see the expression on the bikers face just before impact! Can you believe a motorcycle killed this HUGE GRIZZLY? This grizzly was hit by a Harley on Lolo Pass. This is the pass between Lolo , MT and Kooskia, ID. Lolo Pass , elevation 5,233 feet (1,595 m), is a mountain pass in the northern Rocky Mountains on the border between the U.S. states of Montana and Idaho approximately 25 miles (40 km) west-southwest of Missoula , Montana . It is famous as the location where the Lewis and Clark Expedition crossed the summit of the Bitteroot Range via the Lolo Trail on their outward and return journeys in 1805/06. Look at the claws! http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=3&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=4&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=5&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=6&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic http://f1608.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f37235%5fAELci2IAAK1NUJ0F7giEc31L3uA&pid=7&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailClassic The biker spent three days in the hospital! The hog's a wreck! Lesson learned Don't go Bear Hunting with a Harley - they're only good for one hunt!
  17. frankd
    I seem to remember that during the first couple of years, the engines didn't have the counter-balancer. Yammie did this because the engines didn't have as much horsepower (different cams and smaller carbs) as the First Gens. or V-Maxs and they didn't spin as fast. I don't know if they had overspeed protection like the 2nd Gens. do. Frank D.
  18. frankd
    As Paul Harvey used to say, here is the rest of the story. About a week ago, I'd used the van all morning for a bunch of running around. My wife saw some signs for an estate sale, and when I turned around and gave it some gas, it started missing real bad again. I checked a bunch of things again (throttle position sensor, fuel pressure, MAF sensor) but nothing bad was found. I started to check the spark from the 3 double coils, and when I put the neon bulb tester on the center coil, it ran worse. I started to check the coil output by grounding one terminal and with another grounded jumper I checked how far each would jump. The outer 2 coils would jump over an inch, but the center coil would only jump about 1/8". I replaced the center coil and it's running great again. I guess the new spark plugs fired at a slightly lower voltage than the old set, so it ran good until the coil got worse. Frank D.
  19. frankd
    If one piston moves out when the other moves in (when you are trying to retract the pistons), it's obvious that you didn't open the bleeder and dispose of the old brake fluid in the caliper. Check your master cylinder....it's probably over-full. I'm not sure exactly what 2nd gen master cylinders look like, but on my 1st Gen., you can use a turkey baster to remove any excess brake fluid. You don't want your master cylinder reservoir full to the top....keep it 1/2"-3/4" below the top. Another way to get some of the fluid out would be to open the rear caliper bleeder, push down (and hold) the brake pedal. Then close the bleeder and release the brake pedal. Repeat several times. It would help to have somebody else push the brake pedal for you, and you just tell them to push it down and release it at the proper time. You don't want to release it when the bleeder is open...you will draw air into the caliper. After you get the brakes releasing properly, you probably want to flush out ALL of the old brake fluid. Frank D.
  20. frankd
    Yes, the right front exhaust pipe must come off. I've found that it's a little easier to get out if you loosen the exhaust chamber mounting bolts 3-4 turns so that the chamber can move down a bit. I've usually been able to re-use the exhaust gaskets. Frank D
  21. frankd
    It's time to put new tires on my Taurus also. 6 years ago, I put the Touring TA Pro Series Goodrich's on. They were rated for 70K miles, and I've got 75K on them. They aren't down to the wear bars yet, but I've got a nail in one they can't repair, and they are starting to crack. They've always felt good to me. Good traction and good feel when turning. In fact, my daughter wanted a recomendation for tires for her Impala, and I suggested the Michelin's. They've about worn them out also, and are very happy. I'm not sure how many miles they put on them, but it's a bunch. Today at Sam's I noticed something. Right across from the tire department service desk was a display saying that if you buy 4 Goodrich tires (any type) you will get $50 off until Nov. 16. Frank D.
  22. frankd
    Please add me to the list!! Frank D.
  23. frankd
    No, it won't change the synchronization. What you are doing is adjusting the amount of gasoline in the idle mixture, not the air. To adjust the mixture screws, turn the screw in, until it bottoms out (be gentle), and then turn it out until the engine speed peaks. You can hear it OR you can watch the tach. If you have a 2nd Gen and no tach, you could hook up one of your carb. sync. gauges to any cylinder. The faster the engine turns over (at idle) the higher the vacuum reading will be. After you get the first cylinder peaked, turn the idle mixture screw in until the engine slows down slightly. This will put you on the lean side of the perfect mixture. Then do the same for the next cylinders, and then the other two. After the first pass through, I do it a 2nd time, except this time I don't bottom out the screws again, I just turn them CCW to the peak and then I lean out the mixture (turn CW) until I see about a 25 rpm drop from peak speed.
  24. frankd
    I don't think you can just set them 2.5 turns out and guarantee the idle mixture is correct. I mean, if they ALL adjusted properly at a fixed point, why would they give the carbs adjustable jets?...they'd just put a fixed idle jet in. The further out you have the screws, the richer the idle mixture is. How I do it is to adjust them all for maximum idle speed, and then turn them inward (clockwise) until the engine just slows down a little. You can see this on the tach if you look closely. You may have to adjust the idle speed screw to keep the idle speed correct. In fact, the mixture will be easier to adjust if you slow it down to about 750RPM temporarily. Then I do it a 2nd time, adjusting each for about 25 rpm drop from peak. Then adjust the idle speed back to 1000 RPM. This way, the engine will idle smoothly, and you will be slightly on the lean side, and it should give you better gas mileage. Now this will not take you from 28MPG to 40, but it may take you up a couple MPG. Auto mechanics used to refer to this procedure as the 'lean drop method'. I do know that a rich idle mixture will give you dark plugs and reduce your mileage by 3-4 MPG. When my 1200 was relatively new, my gas mileage to and from work went from abut 42 MPG down into the 30s. My dealer told me to drive it to the shop door, and he came out with the hose from their Exhaust Gas Analyzer. He stuck it into the tailpipes and said it was rich. I'd never touched the idle adjustment. He set up an appointment for my carbs to be adjusted. They removed the plugs that are in the exhaust pipes just down from the top, and used their EGA to adjust each cylinder idle mixtures for the proper amount of CO. They synced the carbs and took my money. My gas mileage went back into the low 40s and my spark plugs lightened up. Before they service, all of my spark plugs were dark, so all 4 cylinders were rich. Most of my to work trip was expressway driving. Because these bikes take so little throttle opening to run 65MPH, the idle mixture is quite important.
  25. frankd
    I've got my carbs ready to go back on, and was installing the throttle cables. When I was guiding the bottom THROTTLE OPEN cable, it let me know that it needs to be replaced....it has a couple of broken strands. On one of the 'other' Venture sites I used to belong to, the subject of broken throttle cables on Gen 1's with cruise control used to come up periodically. I never used to pay too much attention to the details though, because my 83 is a Standard and doesn't have cruise. Of course, my 89 does. Does anybody remember the details?? Was it only Mk I bikes? Which cable breaks? Frank D.
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