frankd

Check the DIN (round) connector that plugs into the back of the CB. That's how the audio and mute signal get to the audio module. You have to lift the CB out of the fairing to check this. If this is OK there is a lesser possibility that the DIN plug that goes into the audio module isn't plugged in. Remove the Radio face plate (Ignition key and 2 releases near the bottom) and make sure all 4 DIN plugs are installed. I think the CB is the 2nd from the front (the back 2 are for the front and rear intercom). Of course you have the volume turned up, don't you?

Joe, How many wires are coming out of your regulators. On an OEM 1st Gen regulator, we have the Reds (actually counts as 1 red...they have 2 lighter gauge wires in parallel), the Blacks (2), the three white wires (stator) and what I remember as a yellow wire(may be wrong on the color though). This is the lead that senses the voltage. It has no current through it and therefore has no voltage drop, so it communicates the battery voltage to the regulator accurately. Some regulators us the red wire(s) for voltage sense. They don't regulate the voltage quite as well. If yours has the separate voltage sense wire, check and make sure that it isn't loose where it connects to your bike. On a 1st Gen, it connects at the main fuse. If you connect a voltmeter to the sense wire you should read battery voltage. If you read less, this is your problem. Frank

Also exhaust leaks can cause backfiring.

You didn't mention what year Venture you're working on, but from your profile I 'assume' that it's a Mk I. I suppose if it's cool out and you didn't do any sitting still, you may have left the thermostat bypass valve (front of motor) in the bypass position. However, even with it in the bypass position, if you're sitting still the gauge will move up off of the stop. Normally the gauge starts moving within the first 2-3 minutes after you start riding. Another posibility is that the wire that connects to the temperature sender is loose or came off. The connector used on the Mk I does loosen up and on my 83 I have had to tighten the connector with a pair of needle nose pliers. The temperature sender is underneath the right fairing lower, and the wire connected to it is green with a red stripe. If you turn the key ON and ground the wire, the temperature gauge should move up to full scale (top of red band). Carefully touch the side of one of the cylinders and see how warm it is. After a couple of minutes it should be HOT. If it's only warm, maybe the bypass is on or the thermostat has failed in the open position. Make sure the radiator (not the expansion tank) is full before running the bike. After they warm up for a couple of minute, Mk I Ventures run normally with the choke full OFF. Give it a heavy dose of SeaFoam or Berrymans and see if that helps get the crud from the carbs. If it's cool (50 degrees) and the bike hasn't been run for a while, both of my bikes tend to bog at first when you open the throttle quickly.

Yes!!

Also, before I fixed my 83, you could hold the shift lever up while you used 2nd gear, and it would stay in gear. How many miles are on the bike?

A couple of years ago on my 83, I had the same problem with the radiator cap leaking. The rubber seal had deteriorated after only 30 years. I replaced it with a cap I purchased at O'Reily's, but I had to grind one of the ears off the new cap so that it could rotate because otherwise the ear hit the frame. Also, because it's a Mk I (83-85), the radiator fan should come on just as the temperature gauge gets to the top end of the green band. The next time you get it warmed up, you may want to verify that the fan comes on. If it doesn't check the terminal that connects the wire to the temperature switch (blue with a green stripe and it's underneath right fairing lower) and make sure that it's clean and tight. If it's loose you can tighten it by squeezing it with a pair of needle nose pliers carefully. If you ground this wire, the fan should come on. Here's some info about radiator cap replacements Radiator Cap for Venture Royale autozone cst7513 napa bk7032443 stant 10227

There I was, taking a short nap on the couch. I woke up and told Barb "that sure was a good nap". She said "You won't feel like that after you see what came in the mail". She was talking about an envelope from the city of Joliet, and it had some pictures of my old Silhouette making a right turn while a stoplight was red. I thought "what's the matter with them, haven't they heard of right turn on red". I read further and it gave a web site that I could go to for the complete video of the infraction. I went there and saw that I didn't quite stop all the way. I did get down to barely moving, but not quite a full stop. I'd sure like to beat this, but I'll probably just mail them a $100 check. Big brother is watching.....

I just received my tube of Honda 60 Moly paste and started to wonder what the difference between grease and paste was. It appears to me that the difference is the amount of moly....grease is about 3% moly and paste is much higher (Moly 60 is 60% moly) and also much stickier so it won't sling off. While doing this internet research, I found many different greases/pastes were used, including some really high priced stuff. I've been using moly grease for the drive shaft splines, but on my Mk I, I need to refresh it every 10-12K. On my Mk II, it lasts better. For the rear tire to shaft unit splines, the Yamaha manual says to use lithium based grease. A long time ago my dealer recommended waterproof Bel-Ray lithium grease and I've been using it on these splines and also the pins. However things are pretty dry at 10,000 miles. Does anybody use something better for the tire to shaft unit splines? Rear wheel pins? How good does Moly 60 hold up in Mk I driveshaft splines? Frank D.

I've got a couple of comments and also questions about Venture shaft drives. Venterous said that on 86 and later Ventures, that it isn't necessary to grease the rear shaft spines because it's lubricated by the shaft drive lube. I don't think that's quite correct. Yes, there is a passage between the shaft drive unit and the spline that lube can move through, but it's really too high to allow lube into the drive shaft coupling unless you pull the shaft unit without draining it, and tip it onto it's side. Then the lube can flow from the shaft drive unit into the coupling. Under normal use, it doesn't, and it needs to be greased with heavy molybendum disulfide grease (Honda moly60 or equiv.). When I pull my 87 apart, there is just moly grease in the coupling. Because the seal that was added in '86 keeps the grease in the coupling, it doesn't need to be done as often as the 83-85's do. On my 83, I grease it every 12-13K, or about half way through a normal tire life. This means on a Gen1 Mk1, you do it when you change the rear tire and again about half way through it's life. You also talked about the best way to insert the shaft into the u-joint......On my 83, I used to put it in by itself, and aim the coupling downward so it would go into the u-joint easier. Then I bought the 89, and because of the shaft seal holding the shaft into the coupling, I tried to put it in the first time by holding the shaft unit. It went into the u-joint much easier. I tried it on the next shaft service on the 83, and it was easier this way also. BTW, I have the bike in gear when I insert the shaft, and after I snug the 4 acorn nuts up, I put it in neutral and make sure I can turn the shaft drive unit over to verify the shaft went into the u-joint coupling. I've only had the shaft miss the u-joint once in the many years I've been servicing the shaft unit, but it'd be far better to discover that it missed the coupling before putting the bike completely back together and then having to pull it apart again. Now my questions......if I read correctly, some put the 86 and later shaft into the u-joint coupling and then into the shaft unit. If you do it this way, how do you get the shaft seal all the way in? Question #2. Where do you get Honda Moly60? Last summer I went to the local Honda dealer and they couldn't find any mention of it in their paperwork. That had 2 different Moly greases for sale, and which one was used depended on what year car they were servicing. Frank D.

See if you can find new piston rings before you pull it apart. For the 1200, they aren't available from Yamaha any more. If you go into a cooperative dealer, he can look online if any other dealers have them in stock. Then you can call and buy them from that dealer. For the 1300, rings are still available, but they are expensive. Frank D.

Mr. & Mrs. Skid, Barb and I have added our prayers and thoughts....keep strong and ready to receive the help from above. Frank D.

Richard, Sorry to give you the bad news, but my 83 had 2nd gear start going out at about 78K, and by 82K I decided to rebuild the trans. It all depends on how loose the shaft was when it was built, how hard it was ridden, and how good the oil changes were. Yamaha fixed some under warranty, and I've heard of them going out at about 20K, and then there are some that go over a 100K. Your 83 could already have 2nd gear problems---it doesn't leave the rider stranded, it just hops in and out of 2nd when you roll the throttle open. If it was already fixed by Yamaha, they usually put a punch mark near the engine s/n. As BongoBob said, there is also a frame problem on 83's that could leave you stranded though. The frame will break where the center stand and the rear shock attach. This causes the rear of the bike to collapse. I lucked out, mine broke as I was pulling into my driveway. Some found theirs rusted, but mine wasn't when it broke at about 90K. Mine broke from metal fatigue, and it wouldn't have been safe to fix it. I replaced the frame with an 84 frame, and that is a LOT of work. There are about a million pieces on a Venture that have to be switched over. Before you worry about getting it running and how it shifts, maybe you should pull the Tupperware (body plastic) and turn the bike upside down (remove the battery, empty the gas, and drain the engine oil and shaft drive oil). and weld braces on this area before it breaks and distorts. Yamaha beefed this area up on the later bikes. Frank D.

What makes the shim hard to move is the pool of oil between the bucket and shim. This creates a seal between the bucket and shim, and air can't easily move into this gap when you try and remove the shim. If you wipe the shim and bucket dry, it'll come right up. If there is oil in the bucket, and you turn the engine over (this causes all of the air between the shim and bucket to be expelled), it'll act like they're glued together. However, look at the cam and make sure there aren't any burrs on it. If there are, carefully smooth it out with emery paper and wipe it clean afterwards.

I was 550 miles from home, when mine did this last summer. What I did to cure it was to disconnect the fuel pump--the connector is on the left side near the pump===remove the left side cover, and it's a 2 conductor connector. Then start the bike and let it idle until it runs out of fuel in the carbs. Plug the fuel pump back in and rock the kill switch on and off a few times to allow the pump to run for a bit. When the fuel rushes into the carbs, it'll flush debris from the needle and seat. I went on the rest of our vacation and it was fine, but after we'd been home for a couple of weeks, it happened again. I cured it the same way, but decided to find out what was the "root problem". I removed the fuel filter (an automotive replacement from NAPA) and when I cut it apart, I found that the plastic filter screen had come loose and was letting gas go to the carbs un-filtered. I bought a fuel filter from Advance Auto that had a paper element in it that was positively held in place. NO more problems.

The mail lady delivered my battery cables today, and when I opened up the box, I was impressed with the quality of the cables. Everything was well made, and welding cable was used for the battery cables. Welding cable is much more flexible than normal battery cable, which will ease installation. Good job Gary! Frank

Gary, The check's in the mail. Frank D.

I've got a 24 year old snowblower with a 5 hp. Techumseh engine that used to start out the year running lean, so I'd open up the main jet and it'd be fine. Then as the season went on, it'd get richer and richer, and finally I had to close the main jet adjustment screw all the way, and it'd still be rich. I pulled the carb. apart and found that the float was made of brass, and was cracked and allowing fuel to flow inside the float, which was causing the mixture to get too rich. When it sat all summer, the gas in the float must have evaporated, leaning the mixture back out. I replaced the float and it's been fine the last 7-8 years. BTW, the replacement float was made out of plastic.

Here's a previous thread that talks about replacements for the radiator cap. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38450 Frank D.

Normally, on Mk 1 (83-85) temperature gauges, the fan comes on right at the top of the green bar. Was your fan ON? If it wasn't, I'd check the connection to the temperature switch that is located on the right side, near the junction of the fairing lower and actual right side fairing half. I don't remember if you have to pull the entire right half of the fairing to get to it or just pull the lower. You will see 2 different devices with wires connected to them here in the metal pipe that has coolant hoses connected to it. As I remember, the outer one is the temperature gauge sensor, and the inner one is the fan temperature switch. On my 83, I found that the connector had become oxidized. I cleaned it with a small wire brush, and also crimped the female half of the connector to increase the force that connected it. I also put a little grease (you can use either di-electric or regular chassis grease) to keep it from oxidizing again. To test the fan and relay circuit, you can turn your ignition key on and just ground the wire....the fan should start. Also tighten up the connectors on the temperature gauge sensor. On my 83, I used to have the gauge quit working randomly until I tightened up these connections. Just use a pair of pliers and tighten the female end. Now we get to why the radiator was puking coolant.....Also on my 83, when this happened, I found that the radiator cap no longer sealed well to the radiator neck. The rubber that seals this had become hard (after only 30 years!!!) I replace it with a cap I was able to get at O'Reily's Auto Parts. I had to grind one of the ears off the new cap to get it to turn and go on. I've will get you the part number a little later because my family is waiting for me to go out now.... Frank D.

Yes, my 83 came with a 3 position petcock (I bought the bike new in May 1983).

If you like chasing DX, extra class gives you the bottom 25Khz. of most of the bands where it's a lot quieter and has a lot more DX operating there, but of course that's in the CW portion of the bands. 75 meter does have 100Khz. in the phone portion that's extra class only. Frank D. KA9J

Jay, Like Campfire suggested, take the flame rod out and clean it with a Scotchbrite pad. The flame rod will probably have only 1 wire going to it, and on mine it's held in with a bolt with a 1/4" head. The flame rod is what tells the main board that the flame is lit and it's safe to leave the gas on. Frank

Carl, Make sure it is ignition noise, not noise from the voltage regulator. On my 89, it took a lot of effort to get the regulator noise to almost dis-appear. In my helmet speakers, I had what sounded just like ignition noise in mine when I bought it. On AM radio, I could hear it, but I could also hear it on FM. FM is almost immune to ignition noise. I also had it on my IPOD input (originally the cassette deck input). Then I noticed when I had the turn signal ON, the noise would go away when the turn signals were lit, and come back when they were off. The brake light also reduced the noise, as did turning on my driving lights. Then I noticed that the noise was missing when the RPMs were low, and there when you revved the motor up. If this is the case with yours also, you probably have the same problem. Originally I upgraded the radio input voltage filter (mounted on the front the the radio compartment), but that didn't help at all. I temporarily hooked up a filtered, 14 volt power supply to the radio, and when I started the bike up, the noise was still there. That said to me that the intercom cables were probably picking up noise because the wires between the voltage regulator and the main fuse run along the same route that the passenger intercom cables take . I disconnected the rear intercom from the radio (unplug the back cable from the radio) and it was gone, which said that it was the intercom cable. I added ground cables that bypassed all of the screws in the brackets that hold the tuner and amplifier brackets, and that helped some. Now my noise would be greatly reduced but if I hit a bump it would come back. I added more ground wires, including one from a bolt under the front of the seat to the radio chassis. I also found that the cable underneath the passenger seat (to the rear audio panel) wasn't plugged in all the way. Then I also noticed that the noise would be affected by what level you had the intercom set for. If I turn the intercom off, the noise gets louder. As I turn it up, it goes lower until it disappears at about 10:00, and then gets louder past that. It kind of nulls out at 10:00, and I only hear it in the helmet speakers, which I use most of the time. BTW, if I turn my speakers on, the noise in the helmet speakers gets louder. If yours has these problems, I'll take pictures on the ground wires I added. Frank

I bought my 83 in April of 1983, and now it's got about 140,000 miles on it. Under warranty, my dealer did the alternator stator recall, and then at 82K, 2nd gear was finished. I rebuilt the transmission, and at 92K, the frame broke. I purchased an 84 frame, and it's been great ever since. Now my brother is using it, but he hardly rode it this year. I was down at his house helping him winterize it and (and his boat) and when we got back from running the Stabyl in, he told me it's only his 3rd ride of the year. I've had my 89 for 5 years now, and I've put 45K on it (it only had 30K on it when I bought it). It hasn't been perfect.....it came home on a trailer when the rear wheel bearing went bad. I've also done the Dano mod on the starter drive, and replaced the stator, shaft drive universal joint, and rebuilt the carbs (floats were set high, the diaphrams had holes, and also leaned out the mid-range fuel/air mixture. I haven't found anything that I like as much as the MK II though, so I guess I'll keep it for a while.