Gray Ghost
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Everything posted by Gray Ghost
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On the front, one filament is on all the time (blue wire), the other filament is for the blinker. The rear were blinker only. I have since installed LEDs on front and rear and have both sets as running/turn signals.
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You can get a bracket for Yamaha, in the J&M catalog their brackets are listed at about $60. Just run a standard antenna cable under the tank and seat to the rear. I am assuming that the PO left the antenna brackets on, if so you could probaby hook the J&M antenna on it. To get new headsets for that system shouldn't be anymore expensive than getting new ones for a stock Yamaha system. Of course that doesn't give you AM/FM, but the J&M does have an auxiliary input so you could use an MP3 player for tunes. If you decide to go with what you have, I would call J&M to verify that you get the correct mount. They have one for most Yamaha cruisers and one for the Stratoliner.
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msshearin, the set up from Sierra should be all you need.
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Sierra has a replacement antenna with cable for $45. http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AO-GL12-ANT
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Our bulbs are dual filament, but the wiring is also set up to have one filament on at all times, the other is tied to the flasher circuit (front lights). I don't know what they do to make yours turn signals only. One way to check would be to see if you have three wires coming into the front flasher area. If you do, check (with key on) between the ground and the two connectors at the bottom. On one of the connectors you should read 12 VDC with the key on if the lighting circuit is still set up like the US version.
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If the switch checks out with an ohmmeter, you might have an issue with the sidestand relay. More info on attached pdf file.
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After looking at your original post Annie, I feel really sorry for y'all down there. You're missing most of Texas. That is the only thing that keeps the U.S. slightly sane.
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You can also make a bleeder using a gatorade drink bottle and some 3/8" plastic line. Drill a hole in the cap just big enough to push the line through with a little force. Hook the line to the valve, loosen the cap, squeeze the air out of the bottle and tighten the lid while the bottle is collapsed. Crack the valve open and the vacuum will pull the fluid. Fellow students and I used this type set up on over thirty brake jobs in a two week period. The brake fluid did not eat through the bottles either.
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We are doing well. Most weeks are five hours a day working on some aspect of a bike, so I am having fun and learning stuff. This three week block has been dealer service operations, so I am learning about their software programs, crash estimating, etc. The next block after that though will either be electric troubleshooting or engine rebuild, so things are looking up. We will probably be back in Georgia around Christmas (the one week break we get). My oldest will be going to school at Ft Benning and my youngest is still in Atlanta. Will let you know if we get back to the area.
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Glad you are OK.
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This is what brake fluid can do to your plastic.
Gray Ghost replied to raybear71's topic in Watering Hole
DOT 5 is silicon based and will not harm plastic like the glycol based brake fluid will. There are other factors though. Glycol will absorb moisture and spread it throughout the fluid mixture. Silicone based will not absorb moisture. Problem with that, from what I have been told, is that you can end up with pockets of water in places you don't want water. Also that could end up causing corrosion in your system that wouldn't be present with the glycol based. If someone wanted to switch between the two, since they are not compatible, they would need to switch out all the rubber parts in the system and do a total flush. For further reading: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-brakefluid.html -
I had to get out the map and look, I'm not that familiar with FL geography yet. Wasn't us, but turns out we were just south of Edgewater that day. Went over to Titusville and ate a Dixie Crossroads, then back to Kissimmee.
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I have a plug and compressor kit from Aerostitch for emergencies, but always felt like having roadside assistance from both AMA and Progressive would take care of most of my issues. Last summer, though, I was riding my brand new to me bike from Richmond to Atlanta. Around mile marker 12 in VA the front started going flat. Pulled to the side, grabbed my kit for it's first use and started airing up the tire. The little compressor wasn't fast but it was doing a decent job. Checked the tire, up to about 30 psi, reconnected the compressor and waited some more. There was a considerable bang and the bike went over. Now I have a hefty sized flap hanging loose on the front tire and I don't think the plugs are gonna do me much good. So I call AMA. First problem, the mileage limits are ridiculously low. Second problem, I am on the side of the interstate, have a GPS but no paper maps and the operator wants me to tell them where I want to go to. Closest shop with a tire wasn't enough info for them. So I call Progressive. Even though my freshly totalled bike and the bike I just traded had a policy with them they wouldn't cover the bike I was on for roadside. So if you are relying on the roadside assistance thing, check with them first to see how they are actually going to assist you.
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I have had a 765 for a few years now. I am on my third, the USB power connector gave up the ghost and was replaced on the first two. Now it no longer recognizes the aux port so I use the FM broadcast option. Once I am out of school and able to make longer rides I may replace it, but it was good while it lasted.
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Good luck with the legal system. We'll try not to break anything over here so that it will still be around for you to see when you do get back.
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I know all the gripes about FB. I use it to keep up with my kids and friends so I try to keep myself educated about how to keep private what I don't want shared. First thing his manager wasn't snooping, he was already a facebook friend. Now to keep certain information from being broadcast to your FB friends is a fairly simple process also. When you access some of the news sites using your facebook account you have to click on an area that sets up who is going to be able to see your activity. It is set to normally default to whatever you have set up in your privacy settings, so it may be just friends or public. If you don't want anyone to see it, just click on the drop down and customize it just to been seen by yourself. That will keep it from being posted on your friends wall. Yes it is a bit of a pain, but I have chosen to use this method of sharing with my friends and family so I do so. I was always lousy at writing letters or phone calls, so this suits me well.
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Ordering online sometimes does mean surprises with shipping. I ordered some parts for one of my RAM mounts from an online dealer. Had to pay for USPS Priority shipping. When it came in I found that it was shipped from a post office three miles from my house.
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Speed bleeders are nice for bleeding the brakes, I had one on my last bike. But for a complete drain of the system the bottle trick does a great job quickly.
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Lost my Son
Gray Ghost replied to naturbar's topic in Inspirational, Motivational, Prayer Requests, Etc.
Our condolences to you and all your family. -
Watched a brake job today. The instructor used an old Gatorade bottle and 3/16th hose as the vacuum for the job. Really worked well. The way it was set up is to take a length of hose that fits over your bleeder valve and drill a hole in the bottle cap that the hose will just slip into. Run the hose through the cap into the bottle. Then hook the free end to your bleeder valve. When you are ready to start bleeding/draining the fluid, open the cap on the bottle slightly, and squeeze the bottle. While holding the bottle in the "crushed" condition, tighten the bottle cap which will create a vacuum in the line. Open the bleeder valve and the fluid will flow. If the vacuum is exhausted before the bleed is finished, just close the valve, open the bottle cap and crush again. I was impressed with how well it worked.
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The links from the tech section are: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34281 and http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19119
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And just think, we can start this all over again when they come out with a 3rd Gen.
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Happy birthday!!
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This one has been going around on the internet for awhile. While credit card theft is a royal pain in the patoot, you can't be held liable for more than $50 (in the US) for an unauthorized transaction. While it is scary to think of someone swapping out your credit card for a bogus one, think of how many cards the thief would have to have ready access to in order to swap out one from the same bank/company, etc. And in taking a photo of the number, the verification code that they need to go with that for many transactions is on the back of the card. Now consider something scarier. All they need to do is copy down the numbers on a piece of paper while they have your card. And even worse there are devices that allow the thief to swipe your card, and then transfer that info to another swipe type card, like a hotel key. Another route of getting your number is when someone gains access to lists of numbers and sells them online, etc. I have had my CC numbers taken and used at least a couple of times. Total amount I have had to pay out so far, $0. I did have to go to the local police to file a report in one instance so there was some time and gas money lost. Fortunately I was not traveling and needing to use my card when it happened. When they take your card physically (or use a clone) they often charge a couple of dollars at something like a convenience store. That establishes whether or not the number is still good. If it is then they try to milk it for everything they can before you cut it off.
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Actually all of the various weights of oil can have the friction modifiers. Friction modifiers were introduced with API service duty rating SJ in 1996. What I am being told is that MC engines also do better with a more ZDP which was reduced with API rating SH. The rating that you do want to see is JASMO MA (as someone else has already stated). That rating is for motorcycles that use a wet clutch sharing the engine oil. The history of ratings is below. (And more recent ratings usually incorporate the previous standards, so I wouldn't trust anything above SG without the JASMO rating. The diesel oils will have a rating beginning with C and I don't have the info on them. See http://www.api.org for more info. Service Duty ratings and year added: SA - 1940s (no additives) SB - 1949 (additives introduced) SC - 1964 (anti-sludging emphasized) SD - 1968 (anti-wear emphasized) SE - 1972 (anti-oxidation emphasized) SF - 1980 (EP additives emphasized) SG - 1990 (EP additives emphasized) SH - 1994 (ZDP reduced - catalytic converters) SJ - 1996 (friction modifiers introduced) SL - 2001 (increased anti-oxidation) SM - 2004 (improved deposit protection and low-temp performance) SN - 2010 (improved high temp deposit protection, sludge control, and seal compatibility)