Chaharly

Hey guys! Got a little more plastic welding to do, and I think the best way to go about this is to have a fine powder made of ABS to do the welding. I tried running small pieces of plastic through an old blender, but I dont see them gettign to be the powder I was hoping for. You guys have any suggestions to work this ABS down into a fine powder?

Looks like a nice jacket for 200 bucks. Glad it's in other colors besides neon green! Might be my next riding coat purchase

Yes I believe so! It all seems to work like its new now! Thanks for your help Marcarl!

After taking the solenoid block apart again and determining that it seals up very well and works properly I decided there must be a leak in the system BEFORE the solenoid block. I took warm soapy water and sprayed everything down and wouldn't ya know I found a leak on the compressor! Right where the intake and exhaust hose manifold goes onto the compressor block the air was escaping so I took it apart thinking there would be a gasket, but it turns out theres like a read valve and an o-ring. So I'm warming the truck up now to run over and get an O-Ring kit. For now i flipped the oring and pumped up the system this time and while its still leaking its much, much faster at airing up the shocks. Hopefully this licked the problem!

I cleaned up the 3 solenoid block but I'm not entirely sure I'm seeing the other two solenoids you're talking about. I see a finter on the intake side of things but I'll look again in a bit

My deepest condolences

Awesome! Thank you so much! I'm really gonna get into it tomorrow cuz i gotta go to work in a few hours and its supposed to be in the 40s tomorrow! I guess @Flyinfool is gonna revving up his white wash machine and pelt our state with up to 16" next weekend!

That's some pretty interesting tech

Hey guys, I believe the solenoids in my CLASS system are working sluggishly. The front works just fine, and there are no leaks in the front or the rear, but when I inflate the rear it goes up really, really slowly, slow enough to cause an error code if i let it do it automatically, but sometimes i believe the solenoid opens up all the way and the air goes in just like its supposed to.. I thought I read a how-to on cleaning them a long time ago, but cant seem to find any info on it now. I've got the trunk off the bike so i figure while its off i'll dry the dessicant and clean the solenoids if possible. Have any of you guys done this?

Thanks for the replies guys! Vaz hooked me up with a PDF. He's a great dude. Its definitely good info to have on the website IMO!

Hey guys, I used the link about a month ago and it worked fine but i jumped on today and It wouldnt' load. Anyone have another way to get my hands on a manual?

Good lord you got a sharp bike! I wish the motor and other metals on mine looked half that nice! IMO for 1700 bucks there's not a better bike on the market. I've put 30k on mine in 3 seasons, with only 1 break down (which i should have never left on the trip with the battery the way it was) so you should feel confident on the road!

It seems to me like every time I go to the mechanic it ends up being 3 or 4 times more expensive than I was told, or what it should be. So I do pretty much all my work myself, unless I need a scanner. Then I'll run up town for that. As far as working on my bike goes, after I had B&B Cycles in norfolk put a back wheel on, and they managed to seperate the outer part of the rear brake rotor from the inner part (its a semi-floating rotor which means its riveted together) When i took the wheel off I could shake the rotor and it would freely move in 2 seperate pieces) and then telling me it wasn't like that when they put it back together, I'm absolutely done with having other people work on my stuff. I was leaving for California one week after I had them put the tire on and had to scramble to get a new rotor, which in turn wasn't the right one, but I used it anyways (Stupid)

Oooo lord. I guess they say throttle out of it but i don't think nailing the throttle would be the first thing on my list

I emailed them and asked what the output of it is. He said they wind it to OE specs, but he doesn't know the specs, so I'll have to find out what the yamaha OE is to know. Not the best way to make a sale lol

It was 41 and the roads were just thawed enough to get my 88 out. I dont think they're the prettiest on the market (but i think they're damn beautiful, especially my 2tone cherry) but really, I just absolutely love my Venture. I really dont think they make a much better bike, or at least maybe not one that isn't the price of a down payment on a house! I loved my 99 too, but my 88 really is absolutely my favorite bike I've ridden so far!

congratulations my friend! Here's to many good years! Get as many smiles per mile as possible!

The thing now is, bikes that look like that MT-01 are jut now hitting the states in Yamaha lineups. I think they thought the cruiser look was a safer bet in the states, when in reality I think that would have sold like hotcakes here!

Boy howdy Its always a pleasure to hear from ya puc! If I was a braver man I'd enquire a little more about those bikes he's got sitting in there, but the way he was talking to that dude on the phone I figured I should wait for another day. Actually though, if that's the way they act when customers are in the building I can see why they're still trying to get 10k for that bike, and besides the price I'm sure the attitudes walked several people out the door. Like you said though puc, you could find the same bike, same year, with 10k miles that's had a thousand miles a year put on it for half that price and you'd be in safer waters I'm sure! Unless you've got experience peeling motors apart, I'd be honestly scared S***less of pulling a brand new motor apart to look for pitting or rust on metal to metal parts. I'm sure that'd really quickly void that Yamaha warrantee. I also wonder what Yamaha would do on a lot of those warrantee claims... doesn't seem like something they'd want to throw a lot of money at? Now if they fire it up twice a year, that could be a different story

I'm planning on going the combo route with the power on my bike. I'm putting new beefier positive and negative leads on the battery, switching the tail, brake and turn signals to those plug and play LED bulbs, and adding at least a new stator, if not a high output one. My goal is to be able to run a heated jacket and heated socks, because the only parts on me that ever get cold are my lower legs between my pants and my shoes (dont ride with boots, probably never will, always prefered to ride with sneakers) and my back. So I'd only ever use higher outputs maybe once a year if I get caught on a cold day in the mountains. Does the higher output stator always put out more power, or only when there is a draw for more power?

I didn't even inquire about the bike. The mechanic was yelling at someone over the phone the whole time, but on the sticker it said the year, model, price, and under miles it said ~NEW!!~, but I'm guessing you're right. It is technically a used bike and probably on its second title. I wonder about the belt on it, being that its belt drive. I've never owned a belt driven bike... does the motor somehow lube the belt, or would age not be a factor. Like I said though, I wish I could just walk in with 8 grand cash and see what they'd do

Yeah they're supposed to be a pretty badass bike and i think its beautiful, and new is always nice. I bet after all those years of sitting on the floor it has boot damage and such from people sitting on it and whiping there hands on all the shiny bits

I don't think I've ever seen an MT-01 before but the bing search brought up a BADASS looking bike! I think the motor on it would be fine sitting from sitting around, but I always wondered about going in with 8k cash and seeing what they'd say. It wasn't their only 10 year old bike sitting there with no miles!

I've gotta replace the starter clutch this winter and I'm thinking of going with Dano's upgrade, it'll be a little pricey but definitely worth the money. I would have liked to go with the high output stator at 45 amps, but its 270 bucks and I found this one for a hundred. There's nothing wrong with my Stator that I know of, but being that I'll have it out and its 30 years old, I'd feel a little safer going with a new one! https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/products/generator-stator-for-yamaha-1983-2007-venture-royal-1200-1300-venture-1200-1300-v-max-1200-rm01051 What do you guys think?

I needed a special bolt while working on the venture today so I went to the Yamaha Stealership in Sioux City, IA because luckily they had the bolt! While i was in there they had a 2008 Yamaha Warrior sitting there, with no miles, brand spanking new! Now I'm not in the market for a bike, but I thought the price they had on it was outlandish. I understand its new, but they still wanted $10,500, which I believe they were only $12,000 brand new. Wouldn't you figure after sitting that long, not being moved or ridden at all its got a good possibilities of electrical solenoid sticking in something like a fuel injector, or what @cowpuc talks about when he's speaking of dry spots in the motor. I know on an overhead cam bike you can pull the valve covers and inject lube where its needed, but I'm not too sure about the V-Twins. Do you guys think 10,500 seems fair?