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First_N_Last

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Everything posted by First_N_Last

  1. First_N_Last
    Well after putting 10,000 miles on my Kumho CT, I replaced it with a Avon Venom. During the 10,000 mile Kumho test I endured: --- multiple wild tank-slapping episodes on curves above 70 mph --- instability trying to stop sideways on a grade... tire wanted to dump the bike --- instability on grooved highway --- pain in the ass getting comments from people telling me my wobble problems were other bike problems & that I needed to fix them because there was nothing wrong with a CT Well, I changed the tire & tested it today. I took the same routes & speeds that always generated a wobble. There is NO WOBBLE! Woo HOO! I then redid the test with speeds up to 100 mph (corrected). So now if I get carried away passing or avoiding, I don't have to fear a Tank Slapping episode of SUPER FEAR. The 2008 RSV rides & handles great now. No CT for me ever again on a 2 wheel motorcycle. JohnB
  2. First_N_Last
    I have BUBS for me... I drilled the rivets & removed my flaking tips - ground the chrome off - painted them with furnace black. Then I removed all the disintegrating fiberglass & installed 8" universal baffles in them. Reassembled them & 10,000 miles latter they sound just like they did when I first modified them & the black tips look great. Johnb
  3. First_N_Last
    I've only put about 10,000 miles on my 2008 RSV, but I had a carb sync staying synced issue also. I believe part of it was my carbs slowly cleaning out the gunk from the previous owner. The other part & probably the main culprit was that one of my spark plugs was not tight. I could turn it with my fingers when I changed the plugs to Iridiums. Just check for loose things, cracks in intake tubes, etc. You must have something causing you to loose sync. For me, my plan is to resync when ever my tach pulses a great deal at idle or every 5000 miles. JohnB
  4. First_N_Last
    That's cool! I live near Rt10 & 150... I will contact you when I get back. There are lots of rides this weekend around Richmond & a meet&Great for ventureriders today. To find local rides google The Richmond Riders Meetup. TTFN; JohnB
  5. First_N_Last
    hi there; I live & ride to work almost every non-rain day for a 44 mile round-trip. I use Rotella T6 5W-40 and have had no problems with our multi 100+ degree days. To me, 15W-40 is better suited for an air-cooled bike, but it should work OK for you. However, if you get to changing your own I any many others here recommend the Rotella T6 & the WalMart SuperTech ST7317. Infact the Rotella seems just as good as Amsoil to me. John Bauer Look me up in a week when I get back from a trip.
  6. First_N_Last
    did this effort die?
  7. First_N_Last
    Thanks Dick for this trip info. We must NEVER FORGET! It is a 5 hour 1 way for me, but I am out of the country on a cruise. May be next time; JohnB
  8. First_N_Last
    If you don't have a USB Legacy BIOS option to enable, just buy another MB. Hardware is cheap compared to the time you can waste trying to make it work. John R. Bauer A+, CCNA ,CISA tested, CNE-5, FCC Broadcast, MCSE-NT4-2000-2003
  9. First_N_Last
    I second that positive recommendation. My Utopia backrest was installed last month & it is excellent. Even had a problem adjusting the back height after using locktite on the screws. Communication was quick & positive with an offer to free the screws if I couldn't do it. They are highly recommended by me. JohnB
  10. First_N_Last
    So... $34 + $12.90 S&H = Total of $46.90 I'm thinking about it & will let you now. Thanks; JohnB
  11. First_N_Last
    For the first time you change a RSV headlight bulb... It is no big deal to split the fairing a do it with the insurance that the bulb is installed without contaminating the bulb glass. When you have it apart, check it out for a future replacement without opening the fairing. That is my opinion & what I just did; JohnB
  12. First_N_Last
    Hey Dick; For now if your hitching a ride, your thumb is more noticeable. JohnB
  13. First_N_Last
    Hi; No replies were made to this thread, so I believe none of us have tried a H1157. After taking the brake light cover off I discovered that there is only about 1/2" clearance between the bulb & the plastic cover. Using a H1157 would definitely be a high risk. I also discovered that Sylvania is the only manufacturer that truly makes a Long Life 2357 bulb. All the others have a short life. Sooooo... I have installed a Sylvania 2357LL bulb in the Brake Light housing. Additionally I have ground the bottom bayonet stud/tit off two 2357LL A (Amber) bulbs & installed them in the front signal lights. Unfortunately, my rear signal light lenses are clear & I will have to hunt for red 2357LL bulbs or just leave the red 1157s in there. Thanks; JohnB
  14. First_N_Last
    I've got an AVON Venom AM42 mounted on the front reversed. It has about 7000 miles on it now with no problems. I just bought another AM42 for the rear which I will use this fall to replace my Kumho. 11/32 of tread is nice to start with. JohnB
  15. First_N_Last
    that is a great video... even on the corners it shows that for this setup... ---- some of the tire tread lifts ---- remaining tread is about equal to normal MC tire ---- couldn't detect sidewall flexing that tire looks like it will work fine for that bike. Thanks; JohnB
  16. First_N_Last
    Good suggestion for some, but not for me for two reasons: 1) cost of LED array vs. 2357LL 2) worry about low current draw & it's affect on my unknown (came with bike) brake flasher/modulator Thanks; JohnB
  17. First_N_Last
    =============================== you did a great job in the info you provided in that thread. Yes, I referenced that, but found no statements of anyone actually trying a 50 or 30 watt H1157. The thread could confuse non-technical people about 2357LL bulbs. Not all 2357LL bulbs are the same. As you noted... only the Sylvania bulb is the one to use. My research revealed the following: CEC 2357LL - 800/10,000 Average Rated Hours Eiko 2357LL - 400/5,000 hours Sylvania 2357LL - 2000/10,000 hours So... Has anyone actually tried a 50 or 30 watt H1157 in a RSV brake light housing?. JohnB
  18. First_N_Last
    To me that is about a 4% optimistic error. Much less then the speedometer error of 7% to 10%. Maybe they are using the "Round Up to hundreds & add 1" Canadian magic HP formula. I think I'll start telling my bike friends the same. My bike now has a magical Canadian crank HP rating of 101. 101 is a nice symmetrical number. Nice... JohnB BTW - Canadians are cool - merely referring to that Canadian motorcycle Stealer!
  19. First_N_Last
    OK... the questions about using a Halogen 1157 brake light for a RSV have been in the messages for years but I have never seen an answer? Has anyone replaced their 1157 brake light bulb with a 50watt or 30watt Halogen 1157 bulb? The Sylvania 2357LL will be my only choice unless someone has experience to share. Well? Comments? Thanks; JohnB
  20. First_N_Last
    Thankfully my wife is on my side for placing a window unit in the 2 main rooms we live in... Study/TV room & bedroom. We have a 5000 sq.ft. house with a 3 ton & 2 ton AC units. The window units allow us to set the rest of the house at 82 degrees. In the window AC rooms we keep the temp at 74 for cool comfort. It saves us a lot of money. Work on your honey with the money saving angle. Good Luck! JohnB
  21. First_N_Last
    Thanks to all for head cap/bandana info... With all the 90+ days I have been riding in Virginia, I decided to get a type which was multi-layer & sweat wicking. I bought 2 SweatVac Stubby Cycling Bandanas... DriSmart™ shell with Transpor™ liner Perfect under-the-helmet sweat management tool with sleek 'stubby' tail Extremely Comfortable - No Itch Dries 4 times faster than cotton UPF 40+ Machine Washable Made in the USA Grey color for both (to hide dirt?) $31.13 for both delivered to my door SweatVac® products are engineered and designed using a unique blend of the finest technical fabrics. The SweatVac® System is a multi-layer system which places Transpor® fabric against your skin and wicking layers on the outside. http://www.sweatvac.com/images/TranMoisDiagColor_thumb.jpgTranspor® fabrics are hydrophobic. They simply hate water and are 11 times more effective than any other product. As the graphic shows, our multi-layer technology channels vapor and moisture away from your skin and into the outer wicking layers, where they quickly evaporate. Unlike other headwear, the material that touches your skin stays dry and comfortable – never soggy or clammy. ...bought through Amazon.com JohnB
  22. First_N_Last
    OK has anyone replaced their stoplight 1157 dark sucker with a Hologen H1157 dark sucker? Is it ok on rsv without melting lense? JohnB
  23. First_N_Last
    What did you use to get the blood stains out of the wood?
  24. First_N_Last
    I think your letting the bird talk for you.
  25. First_N_Last
    Have you been out riding in the past weeks? The 90 to 104 degree days have been killers! The air blowing at me while I'm driving 70 mph on Rte64 has felt like the air rushing out of an oven. No ventilated helmet will take care of that unless it has an AC built in. The sweat runs out of the helmet & just drips off the back of my neck. That's what we need... an Air Conditioned helmet. JohnB
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