Jump to content

ToyOdie

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    384

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ToyOdie

  1. ToyOdie
    OK guys, I need some expert electrical help. For Christmas I bought LED turn signal inserts from Custome Dynamics. I already had the Run-Stop-turn from Kuryakyn for the back so the rear hooked up and worked perfectly. The front are another story. I also bought the load equalizer and diode kit from Kuryakyn. Both installed easily. Here are the problems. The turn indicator is always on when I connect the diode to ground acording to the instructions. The front lights come on as running lights but they go out and dont flash when I select either turn. At the same time the rear flash fast. If I remove the diode and reinstall the original front bulbs the rear LED lights flash normal. I read and followed all the instructions (maybe my first problem). Is ther something I'm missing or is my wiring different? Any help or possible solutions will be entertained.
  2. ToyOdie
    I dont think I'll need to replace the pistons. I think the seals a just bad. It's been a very slow leak for the last few months. It was so slow I couldn't figure out where the fluid was going. There wasn't any evidence of a leak anywhere. Finally I saw some residue on the caliper. Further inspection showed buildup on and around the pads. I use the front break for most of my stoping power so the rear break slipping happened very slowly and wasn't noticable until it got bad. I'll clean everything up and put it back together. I got a new rotor too. 50,000 miles and counting. It was looking pretty grooved and rough so I thought it was a good idea. Merry Christmas to me!!
  3. ToyOdie
    Thanks, I wasn't expecting to need the hone. Just thought I'd ask just in case.
  4. ToyOdie
    I found my rear caliper leaking so I'm going to rebuild it. I have rebuilt calipers on cars before and don't think it should be difficult. I just thought I would ask if there is anything special I should be aware of. The other question I have is the size of the cylinder bore if I have to hone them. I dont have my small hone anymore. So if I have to buy one, it would be nice to know what the size is. Thanks for the help.
  5. ToyOdie
    Well I removed the tank and used the suggestion of the lawnmower (actually a pressure washer) gas tank. The setup worked perfectly. I still have a problem though. The extention lead from the colortune plug to the plugwire is arching everywhere. The plug only fires about once every 10 tries. The rest of the time it's arching at the plug wire or the metal clip on the extension lead. I tried to reposition the lead and also changed the cap on the wire with no luck. Any suggestions? On a side note.....Anyone who is on the fence about buying a Carbtune.......GET OFF THE FENCE!!!!!!!!! It's the best $100 you'll ever spend on this bike. I have been using my homemade carb sync for the last 2 years and was satisfied with my results. I finally bought a Carbtune and used it yesterday for the first time. I did need to adjust all 4 carbs twice to get them set. That took all of 30 minutes from begining to end. It's like a new bike. The smoothness and throttle response is better that I can ever remember.
  6. ToyOdie
    Thanks Jeff. I was thinking I might have to get creative and make an external gas tank. My other thought was to use a hand held inspection mirror to get a view. The only problem with that is I would have to first buy one (I need one anyway) then work in a darkened area to be able to see a good picture. I'll give you a call if I need any assistance.
  7. ToyOdie
    I ordered and received a Carbtune and Colortune this week. I was very impressed with the personal service used on my order. I have no problems with setting up and using the Carbtune. However, I haven't figured out how to install and read the front two cylinders with the Colortune. I have managed to get the plug in and hook up the lead, but I can't get a visual on the glass to see the flame color. The adapter with the mirror is too long to set up without removing the tank. Is there a trick that I haven't figured out yet? I just want to know what method everyone else is using.
  8. ToyOdie
    I made the job much easier by installing a Speed Bleeder on the clutch at the same time I installed them on the breaks.
  9. ToyOdie
    Ok, I removed and cleaned the carb's. I found the #3 and #4 carbs had the most dirt. These are before and after pic's. While I was thereI set the floats just like the manual said. I only had to adjust #3. When I got it back together I sync'ed the carbs. I'll have to admit the it was running like crap. It was the poping at idle and it was worse on deceleration. So I continued to adjust the mixtures. That wasn't making much differnence so I removed each mixture screw and shot a little carb cleaner in the hole. Then I put the mix screw back to the original setting I recorded before I started messing with it. The poping at idle went away and the engine smoothed out. I still had some poping on deceleration, so I adjusted the mixture screws one at a time and I just about have ALL the poping gone. Now it only pops under hard deceleration.
  10. ToyOdie
    I have opened up my float bowls on my 96 RSTD to clean the pilot jets. I figured that I should check the float levels while I was in there. Unfortunatly the older 2nd gens have different carbs than what V7Goose has in the tech section. I have downloaded the manual and I can't seem to find a measurment. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. ToyOdie
    Well I removed the brass caps by drilling and using a sheet metal screw. It wasn't that bad. Then I marked the original settings and turned each screw in to find the factory setting. I was surprised at how different each one was. I then adjusted 3 and 4 out an additional 1/4 turn and tried it. It seemed a little better so I continued adjusting each one until the popping was reduced to as little as I could get. I still need to check the sync. I'll ride it a while to see how it runs. Then I'll decide if I'm going into the carbs for a proper cleaning. I'm also going to run some more SeaFoam through it for good measure. Thanks for the help and moral support.
  12. ToyOdie
    I think my plan of attack is to remove the caps and make a minor adjustment to see if the RPM changes. If not, I'll remove the carbs and clean the pilot jets. I don't want to open the carbs if I don't need to. I have pulled them but I have never been inside. If I do have to open the float bowls, can I reuse the cover o-ring? It sounds like a stupid question, but I'm not sure if I can get them locally and I'll hold off untill I can order them if they can't be reused. Thanks for all the help. I don't think I would own this bike without you guys.
  13. ToyOdie
    OK...so I went home on my lunch break to look at my carbs. The caps are still in. Is there an easy way to remove them. I tried to pull them with a small screw and it didn't work. I also tried a small screw driver on the edge. I just don't want to damage anything in the process.
  14. ToyOdie
    Thanks!!! Obviously I was looking in the wrong place. I was under the impression that they were in the float bowl cover someplace near the drain. I'll take a look when I get home.
  15. ToyOdie
    I have been reading several threads on exhaust poping on deceleration. I have had the problem since I bought the bike over two years ago. It seems to have gotten worse over the last few months, so I think I've decided to try to fix it once and for all. I have already run a can of Seafoam through the carbs over the last 2 tanks of gas. This has usually helped but never eliminated all the poping. This time it didn't seem to do much at all. I have checked for exhaust leaks and found none. I have done a carb sync with no change. My next step based on my reading is to clean/adjust the Pilot Jets. I have found several threads explaining in detail the proceedure. I am confident I can do the job except for one thing. I have a 96 RSTD and the carbs are different from the ones discribed for newer Ventures and RSTDs. The adjustment doen't look like it's accessable from the outside of the float bowl. I don't see anywhere there is a "brass cap" to remove to gain access for the adjustment. In the thread it says I should find it next to or near the float drain. I don't seem to see anything. At the YamahaPartsHouse.com site there is a parts breakdown that shows the difference when you look at a 96 compared to an 07 carb. The carbs on the 96 through 2000 look to be the same. Can someone help me with the proceedure and or location of the access.
  16. ToyOdie
    I have a 96' RSTD that I put 12k on a set of E3's that were on the bike when I got it. I don't know how many miles were on them when I bought it but, they did have some wear on them. I ride mostly 1 up and run 38f and 42R. I just put a new set of E3's on 3k ago and they still look like they just came out of the press.
  17. ToyOdie
    The job is pretty straight forward. I would suggest picking up some speed bleeders if you plan to bleed them by yourself. When I did mine I think I found a thread on the site with step by step instructions. The only thing I remeber that was a trick, was to bleed the left side first, then the right. I think that has to do with the length of the lines. The right one is farther away from the master cylinder. You need to keep a close eye on the fluid level when bleeding. If you get too low and suck air, it's time to start over. Be carful when you squeeze the lever, there is a return hole that will squirt everywhere if you squeeze too fast. Cover everthing with rags to keep it off the paint just in case. Don't ask me how I know. If your fluid is discolored you might want to flush the whole system to clean it out. I did mine shortly after I bought it in 2010. The bottom of the master cyclinders (clutch too) had what looked like jelly. Before I removed the old pads I pumped the old fluid down to the bottom and cleaned it as well as I could. After changing the pads, I pumped a full quart of dot 3/4 fluid through each of the break and clutch systems. I know that ther was still a little of the old fluid left in the system, but I didn't want to break any of it apart. (If it ain't broke - Don't fix it!) It's not a bad job and it can be done in a couple of hours. Good luck.
  18. ToyOdie
    I think Denver is the smart move. AFC, week division, and has a line that can protect him for the .3 seconds he needs to find his recievers. That also gives Tebow the chance to come to Jacksonville.
  19. ToyOdie
    I have been working on cleaning up my 96 RSTC by polishing some parts. I have done a few small parts and the lower struts. I had them to a chrome like finish (not perfect), and I decided to go with a brushed finish to match the upper shock covers. My next project will be the master cylinders and upper tripple tree, as these are looking pretty sad. My point is that I have had great luck polishing these parts and coating them with automotive clear coat to preserve the finish. It take a lot of elbow grease and patience, but the result is fantastic.
  20. ToyOdie
    It just so happens that I work at a Home Depot. The policy is that we will give a military discount to all active duty military, retired military, and their dependents every day. Disabled Veterens with a "Service Related" disability ID card (the VA card will have "Service Related" on the card) will also be given the 10% discount on any purchase year round. Veterens (less than full retirement) only get the 10% discount on specific holiday events such as Memorial Day, Veterens Day, and 4th of July. Usually these events are for an entire weekend. I hope this makes the Home Depots poilicy a little clearer.
  21. ToyOdie
    I was 18 in 1973 and bought a Honda CL160 against my parents wishes. (ie... "I'm 18 and you can't stop me.") I joined the navy in 1975 and dad sold it. Got stationed in Hawaii in 1979 and bought a KZ400 to get around until the car arrived. Sold it in 1981. Feb 28, 2010 bought a 1996 RSTC and I'm still riding it everyday the weather allows.
  22. ToyOdie
    Several people from work are planing to go down on the 14th. We only spend the day and come back that evening. I'll have at least 2 more days off that week so I might try to make it down another day too.
  23. ToyOdie
    Did you check under the tank to see if the sending unit is plugged in? The connection is under the seat. It only has 2 wires (green and white). Mine was pinched and the light was on all the time when I got the bike. I repared the wires but it had fried the sending unit.
  24. ToyOdie
    I have the same bike as you and get no less than 42 mpg. I have drained my tank within 3 miles after going on reserve and there was over a gallon left in the tank. The fuel light hasn't worked since I bought the bike, (sending unit is bad) so I depend on my mileage to let me know how far reserve will let me go. I can safely go 55 miles after I switch to reserve. After that I'm running on borrowed time. I have been able to get as much as 52mpg, but I'll never try to use that as my reserve calculation. I always fill up @ 150 miles and a fill up will put 3.4 gal in the tank. This method has never let me down.
  25. ToyOdie
    Sounds to me like a fault in the Cruise safety systems. Since the problem started when you set the cruise, one of the safety switches is telling it to shut down. I would check insde the control box for loose wires or contacts. Clean everything and apply dielectric grease to the contacts. (just a little!) Then I would also check both the brake switches, the clutch switch and the kick stand switch again. The cruise is just like in a cage. When you touch the brake or clutch the cruise should disenguage. I'm not sure why it would kill the engine but I bet its related to the cruise and the kick stand. Just my two cents.
×
×
  • Create New...