ToyOdie

I'll try to get some glamor shots when I get it completely done. Should be soon. I took it for a short ride last night and it still needs some carb adjustments. The balance is good, but the mixtures are off. Another day or two of fiddleing and it should be done.

+1 on checking the linkage. I had to replace a bolt on the rod at the rear shift lever. It had been replaced with the wrong one and was worn out making everything sloppy. Since you said that you did a clutch upgrade, I would go back in and make sure that everything is assembled correctly. With the upgrade you souldn't have any slippage. While your in the clutch you might want to check the shift segment behind the clutch basket. Yours should be one piece but the pins could be worn. I also had to do this repair. Here is a link to show you what I'm talking about. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40713

I got the tank and fenders painted. I had to sand them down twice because the paint crinkled the first time. After three coats of black, I wet sanded with 1000 grit and buffed them out. They black looks better than stock. I got most of it back together and took it for a test ride. I still need to do some carb tuning, but it's running pretty good. Here are some pictures.

Ok, another update. I've been working on the safety chrome. Most of it has been cleaned and polished. I decided that the dent in the tank was still too much. I filled it and am in the process of painting it and the fenders. I going with soild black with a red pin stripe. As soon as I get the tank done I want to ride it to get everything warm so I can change the engine and diff oil. I'll change the coolant also. I've added some pictures of the progress.

Jake Wilson.com I had both of mine mounted at Purcell's in Orange Park for $57.00

First of all we need to know what year and model of bike you have. Second, becoming a member of this site will be the best $12 you'll ever spend on your bike. Once your a member you will have access to the tech library that has the manuals for most of the repairs you will want to tackle. Now as far as removing the rear tire. Not much to it. Remove the both mufflers. If you have an RSTD removing the rear fender makes the whole process easier. There are only four bolts and one electrical plug to get it off. If not, you'll need to jack the bike up more than you might want to get the tire out from under the fender. Disconect the brake caliper and hang it out of the way. jack up the bike so the rear wheel is just off the ground. Remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE WHERE THE SPACERS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE AXLE. Remove the caliper mount. Once the axle and caliper mount are removed, all you have to do is wiggle the wheel until the drive spline separates from the final drive. You'll need to lift the wheel a little and cock it to the right to get it past the caliper mount pin. Reverse the process to reinstall.

I ordered my E3's last wednesday afternoon and had them on friday. I ordered them through Jake Wilson.

Not much progress to report. I fixed the saddle bag that was cracked and painted both bags satin black. They look new with a little patina in the conchos. I've been working on the dent in the tank with little success. The dent is in the narow end of the tank where paintless dent repair can't get the leverage to push it out. I tried the heat gun and ice trick. The dent is smaller but still to big to ignore. I'm seriously thinking about filling it and painting the tank and fenders black. I'd add pin stripes to match the original before I clear coat. Still not sure what I'll do yet. I ordered new Dunlap E3's from Jake Wilson last wednesday and they arrived yesterday. I called right after I placed the oreder to have them check the date code (had a problem last time). Both tires were manufactured mid 2012. Still can't decide what I want to do with the seat. I put it on my bike to test ride it. It's very comfortable and with my RSV risers and extensions the backrest is in the right place. My problen is that it make me sit higher and when I put my feet down, I am barely flat footed. It makes it very hard to walk the bike backwards. Bottom line is, it's not going on my bike even if I can dye it. Wes I might be in touch with you about the trade you offered. By the way, the seat is ostrich leather. I'll post pictures soon.

Another update. The carbs had me climbing the walls. When I bought the bike it would pour gas out of the overflow tubes any time the fuel pump was running. I figured it was the float levels. I was wrong. After cleaning, inspecting and installing them three times with the same result, I figured out how to gravity feed fuel to each pair off the bike. I used the crossover tube to feed gas to eash pair. I had the float covers off and could check the needle valves. All valve would stop the gas but I could see gas coming from around the outside of the seat on 3 of them. The o-ring was flat and hard. I found a local parts house that could match a replacement. One problem solved. I installed to carbs and filled them with the pump. Then the float covers started leaking. I replaced the cover gaskets. Two problems fixed. I installed to carbs again and filled them with the pump. No leaks. Then I started the bike and it ran like #@&%. I got out my carbtune and started the bike again. Before I could get the first two carbs set, the right side overflow started pissing gas again. I pulled the carbs one more time. Long story short, number four needle was damaged. Another trip to the parts house to replace the needle and seat set finally fixed it. The carbs are synced and the leaks are gone. I still need to work on the mixture to get it to stop popping. Next is the oil change and tires. The rest should be cosmetics.

Just a quick update. First of all, I discovered that the bike is actually a 97. The ID sticker says 07/96 but the VIN decodes to 97. That's why the title says 97. The carbs have been off and cleaned. I found a broken cap inside #2. The cap that covers the end of the needle from the diaphram. It's called a screw in the breakdown. The local dealer had one so it's fixed. The brakes and clutch have been flushed and are now working to spec. I'm picking up a battery tonight so I'll be able to start it and get the carbs synced and tuned. I still have a linkage issue and the throttle grip needs to be replaced. (push cable hole broken). If those go well I should be down to mostly cosmetics. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks for the response from everyone. Right now I'm going to concentrate on making it road worthy. The carbs, tires and brakes are going to be first. I was looking to see if anyone had a compatible seat and I think I have my answer. I'll make note and let you guys know when I get to that step. I had thought about trimming the fringe off and dyeing the seat black. Yes it is a quality seat and I think it's ostrich leather. The color and fringe just doesn't do it for me. The guy I bought it from (only had it 3 months) called Corbin about recovering. They wanted over $500 to do the job. At that cost, I would buy a new seat. Buck horns Ruffy? Maybe Bull horns if we lived in Texas or Oklahoma. Thanks again guys. I'll keep you posted.

Well I just bought another 96 RSTC. It has been sitting for several years and it shows. It only has 11,000 miles on the clock and it does run. It spits gas out of the overflow when it's running so at least 1 float is stuck. The tires are shot and the brakes need to be reworked. That brings me to the seat. What was he thinking???? Does anyone have an original 96 seat with the passenger backrest lying around? With a lot of cleaning (some pitting but very little rust) and a little paint, it should be a good investment. I was thinking of giving it to my son for his college graduation. I'll try to keep you updated with my progress.

x2 Jake Wilson

Rick, I think you might be over thinking this. The Kill Switch is more than likely the issue. When you took the clamshell apart to work on your throttle problem you may have broken the bakeolite toggle for the switch. I had a similar problem on the left side with my headlight switch. It affected the turn signals. Open up the clamshell and take a close look at the switch. Where the wires are soldered to the contacts is where mine cracked and then broke. This caused an intermittent ground that would kill my turn signals. If it isn't in the right spot when you put the clamshell back together it gets pinched and can be broken. I had to replace the switch. Unfortunately the switch by itself isn't available. I had to buy the whole assy from a junkyard in South Carolina. Hope this helps.

I think I might need to call Kuryakan too. Custom Dynamics weren't sure if I could even install them on my 96. Mabe they knew more than I thought. Thanks for the help.

The run/stop/turn kit had a lead for a second load equalizer for the front. When I ordered the lights I called Kuryakan to see if that was all I needed. They said all I had to do for the front was to add the second load EQ to the kit. I just can't figure out what the driving lights have to do with the problem. It's like they're getting to the flasher relay and not letting them flash. If I turn on the turn signal with the driving lights off, they work fine. If I turn on the driving lights the turn signal goes completely out. Then if I turn off the driving lights, the turn signal will start flashing about 5 sec later. This one has me stumped. Did you wire each front signal to an individual EQ?

I've been working on an electrical problem with my front turn signals. I ordered a set of running/turn LED's from Custom Dynamics (1157 amber). I already have the Kuryakan run/stop/turn and Custom Dynamics LED's in the back with the LED brake light. They all work fine. I installed a second load equalizer from Kuryakan for the front LEDs. The front only will come on for running and flash for turn as long as I don't have my driving light on. If I turn on my driving light the running lights work but the LED turns off if I try the turn signal. I have tried running the power and the ground for the driving lights directly to the battery for troubleshooting and still have the same problem. None of the changes I've tried effect the rear signals or brake. Any suggestion?

Before you start running a bunch of other programs (all of them good sugestions), Did you delete any part of the program manually by going into windows explorer. For example deleting a folder with the program name? If you did then the only way to get it off is to reinstall the program again in the same location and then use the Add/Remove Program control panel to remove it. Windows thinks the program is gone if it cant find all the components. This holds true for the uninstaller that came with the program too.

Ruffy I'm scheduled off on Monday and Friday next week. I should be able to swap days if I need too. Let me know what day you want and I'll work it out. We can open the carbs and get the jets clean while you have them off. I should have a micrometer to bring over to mic the shims. Let me know if we need anything else I might have. Call me when you know what day.

I can't believe Ruffy just said that. I'm going over to his house next week to learn how to set my valves. Now I'm not sure if that's a good idea anymore. At least we'll be doing his first.

Thanks Ruffy. Im going to try to get my gaskets so I can do mine after your done. We can work out sending the kit back when we're done. Let me know when your ready so I can see how it's done.

I'm having problems getting my clutch basket and boss back in. I removed them to change the shift cam sgment. I marked everything before I took it apart but now I can't seem to be able to get the splined washer between the basket and the boss back on the spline. The basket seems to be seated but there aren't any splines showing to put the washer on.

Ruffy, I never did get to do my valves after we spoke last. I'm still looking to do them. Let me know when you get the kit and tool. I would like to learn along with you. My bike is down right now for the shift shaft pins. I almost had to ride back from Daytona in 3rd gear. I'm waiting for the parts so I can get it up and running. I should have them next week.

Disclaimer: Before you make ANY adjustments make sure you mark each mixture screws and turn it in until it stops counting the exact number of turns. Record the original settings so you can go back and start over if you get lost. I had the same problem with my 96. After many hours of research on this site and plenty of advice, removing and cleaning my carbs was my first step. It helped but didn't stop the popping on my #3 cylinder. I continued to look for a soultion and finally came to the conclusion that it was a rich mixture. I tried to find somewhere that could run an exhaust gas analyser to set them. Needless to say I couldn't find any "old school" mechanics that could do it without a computer hookup. The old probe up the tail pipe machine seems to have gone the way of the dinosauer. However, I did find a guy that runs a Dyno-Shop for hot rods (rice burners) that took a look at my plugs and schooled me what to look for. According to him the plugs should be light grey with no spotting on them. The spotting indicates a too lean mixture which can be very bad. My #3 was light brown (the way I was always told it should be). The other 3 were a darker grey. He told me to clean the plugs and lean out each one a quarter turn. Then run a tank of gas and check them again. Adjust again and run another tank. I had to lean #3 out almost 3/4 of a turn to get the color right. The rest of them only needed 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. The popping went away except on deceleration or if the choke is out more than the first notch when warming up. I took the plugs back to the Dyno-Shop guy and he confirmed that the mixture looked good. I do a plug check now every time I sync my carbs or change my oil. So far I haven't needed to do any more adjustments. I also run some Seafoam in my gas about every 4th or 5th tank to help keep my carbs clean. I hope this helps. Good luck.

I did some more investigating and found that the sockets on the front turn signals for my 96 are wired oposite from the LEDs. I opened the headlight bucket and switched the wires. With the diode NOT installed everything works. All the lights still flash fast but they come one when they are suposed to and flash when selected. Even though I have a single turn indicator on the dash the diode doesn't seem to be necessary. I suspect that my flasher relay needs to be replaced to match the LEDs. That should slow down the flash speed. I can live with it until I find a suitable replacement.