ToyOdie

I have a 96 RSTC for sale. It was sitting in the weather for awhile and the chrome shouldn't be a problem. Make me an offer.

67 Volkswagen (130hp Dyno tested) 70 MG Midget 71 Volkswagen 76 Datsun B210 79 Triumph Spitfire (bought new and still have it) 74 Volkswagen 81 Volkswagen Sirocco 78 Triumph Spitfire 71 Toyota 4x4 (Hilux) 10,000 off road miles in Iceland in 1 year 87 Ford Tempo 86 Toyota 4x4 (Hilux) 93 Saturn SC2 97 Saturn SC2 00 Dodge Intrepid 99 Mazda Protege5 (ran like a go-cart on steroids) 00 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 02 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner 05 Chrysler Sebring Convertible (still have it) 08 Mazda CX7 (still have it) Cant find pictures of all of them.

Rode the bike to work 2 weeks ago. The weather was beautiful and Lucy was running great. I got on the her to go home for lunch and I had no clutch. I pumped it a few times and managed to get it in gear. I limped her home and drove the car back to work. Upon investigation I found the clutch slave cylinder was leaking. The master cylinder still had fluid in it (about half full) and air was entering the system from the other end when sitting static. The leak was so slow there weren't any drips under the bike that I noticed. I ordered the new seals from Partshark and waited for their slow boat from China to arrive. The parts came in yesterday, so last night I decided to Get-r-Done. The book says that you should drain the engine oil then remove the middle gear cover and the LH crankcase cover to gain access to the slave cylinder. It is possible to remove the cylinder without pulling the crankcase cover. As the Brits would say, "It's a little fiddly " but it can be done. You have to remove the bleeder valve and work the neck past the stator wires. Pay attention to the moves you make to get it out. You'll have to repeat them in reverse to get it back in. While you have the slave out, check the neutral switch. I found 1 of the Phillips screws half way out. After cleaning and honing, I installed new seals and reinstalled the slave. Bleeding took some time since the entire system was drained. I put a paper bag on the ground under the bike last night to check for leaks over night. No leaks so far. I rode to work today and will keep an eye on it for further leaks.

I was having the same issue with my 96. I installed a set of Venture risers and an inch and a half riser extensions. Up and back was the answer! I got the risers from Pinwall and the extensions from J&P cycles.

While you have the carbs out to check the float levels, (set them close to 9 mm) remove the needle seats. There is an O-ring around the seat. Mine got hard and dry and started to leak even when the float was up and the needle was seated. This could explain why you have wet spark plugs on the cylinders that aren't firing. The o-ring is not available through the parts list however the dealer in my area had them and I could replace them for about two dollars each. Also check the needles themselves I had one that the rubber tip was broken but you couldn't see it until you try to flex it side to side.

I agree with V7Goose, but I think I might be able to explain. The problem is with the carbs. I had a similar problem with my 97. While the bike was sitting on the side stand only 2 cylinders would fire consistently. The other two would only fire occasionally causing the bike to spit and sputter with the occasional after fire that would cause my neighbor to become very Irate. (he works at night). If I stood the bike up in the vertical riding position the engine would eventually fire on all 4 and smooth out. Anyway, I reset to float levels following this thread and everything cleared right up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75252 If you have good spark on all plugs, it's a lack of fuel. The floats are closing the needle too soon and the pilot jets are not deep enough in the fuel to run correctly. Just something to check.

Bubber, I asked DarrinGT where he got the splices and here is his response. For the wires I used NGK Watertight Splices and they are built just for bikes that you cant remove the plug wires. Here is a link to them: https://www.denniskirk.com/ngk/wire-...prd/200355.sku Little cheaper here: http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=20074 Pretty easy to do, just like unscrewing the caps. The wires that I bought are actually for a first gen, the only difference is that the front plugs have a 90 degree angle instead of a 45 degree, so they will have to sit sideways in the head because they wont clear the valve cover. Ill have pics of them installed soon. Thanks again, Darrin

Don, I have not been able to attend your MD but I've wanted to ever since I started lurking the forum. I have enjoyed reading the posts about how great the friendships have become because of you and your wife. I sincerely hope everything works out and gets back to normal as soon as possible. Thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.

Fantastic! I'll have to order a set of connectors for both bikes. Thanks for the quick response.

How did you change the plug wires? I wanted to change mine but they are sealed in the coils. It looks like you have some kind of connectors in-line. What kind of connectors are they? By the way I have followed both parts of your project...Great Job!!! I have a 97 that looked like yours BEFORE you started. My pockets aren't as deep as yours, but I wish they were so I could do some of the things you have.

E3's are the way to go. I have been very impressed with both sets I've put on my bike. I have found the JakeWilson.com is the best place to get them. The service is great and if you do have a problem they will correct it no questions asked. Check the Date Codes when you get the new tires wherever you get them.

Rode to work in the fog. Rode home for lunch in the beautiful Florida sun. Rode back to work in the beautiful Florida sun. Getting ready to ride home in the dark. Same as most every day.

The Great VR Scavenger Hunt has been going on for several years. The list has 245 targets so far. (Some are duplicated) I printed the list just to read and found that I could have found at least half of the items on it fairly easily or quickly. How many can you get?

I installed Speed Bleeders on my 96. You'll need 2 SB7100's for the front. 1 SB8125L for the rear and 1 SB8125 for the clutch. The SB8125 is too short for the rear caliper.

Marcarl had it right. I have speed bleeders on all my hydraulics. When you start bleeding open the bleed nipple and pump the lever. It might not look like anything is happening, but some (very little) fluid is going it the line. Then close the nipple and pump slowly. You have to tap on the banjo fitting at the back of the reservoir as you slowly pump the lever. You should see very small bubbles coming out. It might take some time, but once you have enough fluid in the line (no more bubbles) you can start to bleed from the nipple normally.

This picture should make it easier to figure out. The top picture is from the left side of the bike. You need to gain access from the right side. The picture makes it confusing. Make sure you get your screwdriver on the right screw when adjusting 1 & 2. The other screw you'll see is the float cover. (Don't ask me how I know)

Here is a link to the proper proceedure for the 96/97 carb sync. I had the same problem the first time I tried to sync mine. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=49436&d=1282743896

I'm by no means a "pro" but I have tackled this one twice. I agree with the needle and seat set. If you removed them for cleaning, you need to replace the o-ring on each one. This will solve the over flow issue. Even if the float is closing the fuel can still flow past on the outside of the seat. The o-ring is not a part listed in the carb breakdown so you'll have to check with your local dealer to match them up. I was able to get 4 of them for less than five dollars. Also check to see if the needle tip is torn. I had one that looked good unil I bent it over slightly then it showed the damage. I found that using the "Book" method of setting the float levels on both my 96 and 97 works if you work with 2 at a time. Separate the carbs to left and right bank. Using a gravity feed fuel tank attach to the crossover or the fuel inlet depending on which side your working on. I set the carbs on a couple of 2x4 so I could get access to the float drain screws. I used some over sized fish tank air hose to create the "Float Level Guage". I took the hose and put it over the drain nipple for the carb I wanted to set. Then I let the fuel start flowing to the carbs. With the carbs level I opened the drain and held the line up and checked the fuel level by measuring using the index line on the outside of the float cover. If the carb needed adjustment I bent the float tab up or down to achieve the proper level. I repeated the process for the other 3 carbs. If your not stopping fuel flow into the carbs, your mixture screws can be totally closed and you can still be rich. Your lucky that it will even run at all. Once you have the floats and needles fixed. Close all 4 mixture screws and open them up 2 and a half turns each. This is a good starting point. Using a color-tune will help you get the final adjustment faster. Before I had one, I used my ear and adjusted the mixtures to eliminate the popping in the pipes first. Then I adjusted based on the color of the plugs after a full tank of gas. A "brown" color indicates a rich condition and a "white" color indicates lean. You should look for light grey with no specks. Start with new plugs and clean them after each check. Make adjustments slowly. It's safer to run slightly rich than lean. This process took several runs of about 20 miles each to get the plugs where I liked them. I still do plug checks on a regular basis just to verify how the engine is running.

I have a 95 and 97 RDTC. Yes it is the one with the phillips screw. Both bikes have a phillips screw in the oil drain plug. Don't try to use the screw to drain the oil. The drain plug is a 17mm. I'm not sure if the screw is a magnet but it sounds resonable. I'll have to check that next time I have it out.

I installed mine under the seat. The plug that goes through the back of the seat pan and through the fender has all the wires you need. I spliced in on the frame side (not the fender side) of the plug. That way I could remove the fender with out cutting back into it. I remove the fender when pulling the rear tire. The installation is very simple. Just make sure you check the color code of the wires. I attached the load eq under the seat too. I just zip tied it to the seat rail and attached the control unit to the seat pan by drilling 4 small holes to run zip ties through. I'll try to send pictures when I get home from work.

Thanks guys. I'll do some checking to what is going on. It just seemed strange that the rpm wasn't the same at the same speed. It doesn't look like ther was any machining on the housing so I'll check the number of teeth on both. I'll let you know what I find.

As you know, I now have a 96 and 97 Tour Classic. I have been riding the 97 and noticed that the gearing is significantly different from the 96. Driving to work on the 96, I usually shift to 5th at around 50mph. Yes I know, but it's on secondary roads and I'm just cruising. On the 97, I can't use 5th until at least 60. The rpm's are too low. So my question is, are there any visual clues to identify a V-Max rear end? I'm thinking that the 96 may have one installed.

E3's from Jake Wilson. Ordered on wednesday, arrived on friday. Both tires were dated coded 2012. And did I mention FREE SHIPPING.

The seat is kind of growing on me. It does look better with the bike full black. This was a project. Once I put a few miles on her to get the bugs worked out, I'll be putting it up for sale. I had a great time getting her road worthy. The new owner should have years of great riding. Here are some glamor shots I took today. Ther still may be come cosmetic changes before I list it for sale.

Now that your riding again, you might want to pay your dues and join the site. (not too busy fixin the scoot). Then you can post some pictures of your bike on the long rides you'll be taking.