ToyOdie

For Christmas I got a Stealth fairing from eBay. I have been working on it for the last few weeks and 3 different configurations. I finally have the final setup complete. Thanks to DarrenGT for his posts when he updated his 97. Also thanks to Freebird for his post on installing gauges. The fairing was finished in black gelcoat so painting was not necessary. First I did a test fit. I had to modify the mount plates because the fairing was originally for a Road Star. I began to mock up the inner shell to mount the SharkAudio 600w radio and speakers. I used DarrenGT’s setup as a start. After mockup, my plan was to fill the original radio hole and cut a new one to fit the Shark. I had some sign plastic that I used to create a template. It fit so well I attached it by putting it behind the face of the radio. This allowed me to install the radio and speakers and do a road test. Everything worked well, however I was very disappointed with the radio sound. A radio change was necessary. More to come..........

I'm running Castrol 10w30 non synthetic. I haven't had a chance to isolate the ground on the gauge yet.

I just installed an fairing on my 97 RSTC. (pictures to follow in another thread) In the fairing I installed a Sunpro CP8212 electric oil pressure gauge. The gauge reads @50psi when cold and @30psi when the engine is at operating temp. Are these readings correct? If not, what should they be? The reason I'm asking is because the gauge fluxuates when the turn signal is on. I might need to isolate the ground wire on the gauge. Any thoughts? As long as I'm asking... I also installed a digital voltmeter. Everything I've read says that the volts should be lower at idle and higher at higher RPM. Mine reads 14.1v at Idle and 13.6v at higher RPM. I checked that it is connected correctly. Do I have a problem or could this be normal for my bike? Thanks for any help.

I got mine from YamahaPartsHouse.com. I have bought all kinds of parts from them. Most were OEM and the price was very good. You can also check out Partshark.com. Their prices were better but shipping was slow.

I got a Stealth fairing. I won it on eBay so no surprise. Then I got a Pioneer head unit with Bluetooth and 6x9 speakers. The real surprise was a set of wireless Bluetooth ear buds. I have gauges and power outlets picked out on Amazon for the fairing. Once I decide how it's going to be setup I'll post some pictures.

In 1989 I was stationed in Keflavik Iceland on an "Unaccompanied Tour". I took a 4WD Toyota pickup with me. I had attached my 1 year old daughters Odie stuffed animal (from Bloom County comic strip) to the top of the seat back with velcro. Needless to say ToyOdie was born

Is it just the fender? I will be looking for the whole assembly ie. frame, fender, bags, trunk and mount hardware. If everything bolts right up, I might not even need the fender. Right now I just want to know if it is plug and play for the rear frame.

I'm brainstorming about changes to my bike. I picked up a 97 RSTC with 12,000 mile and got it running perfect. Now I want to do some mods. I was thinking of a poor man's Venture. My question is, has anyone tried to install a Venture rear fender and related hardware on an older RSTC? I would like to have the Venture hard bags and trunk. Both the RSTD and RSV have 4 bolts that mount the rear frame and fender to the main frame. I just don't know if they match up. Changing the pipes to 4x2 will be much easier with all the Venture hardware. I won a Stealth faring (Road Star) that I'm going to install like DarrinGT did. This is a long term project. I'm just thinking ahead. Thanks for any help I can get.

All the models are Mazda with the "L" code turbo engine. This includes the Mazda6, CX-7, Mazdaspeed3, Mazdaspeed6, and MX-5 turbo (Miata). Just do a Google search for "Mazda VVT problems" and you will find info for all the models and years that have the problems.

Just wanted to let any of you know. If you have a Mazda CX-7, Mazda 6, or Mazda Speed 3 you may be driving a time bomb. There is an issue with the Variable Valve Timing actuater. It is sub standard and WILL come apart. This will take out the timing chain. Since this is an intrusive engine (vales and pistion can occupie the same space) it will destroy the engine. This can happen at any time, any speed, or any driving conditions. Mazda aparently has been aware of the problem for several years and has service bullitins addressing the issue. Mazda extended the drivetrain warranty to 7 years or 70,000 mile for this reason. The only problem is most units fail @80,000 or more. The signs that you have a problem are 1) White smoke from tail pipe after long periods of idle (sitting in bad traffic) or 2) Loud clicking noise from engine (timing chain hitting valve cover) especially at cold startup. My CX-7 had the white smoke so I started researching. I found that Mazda had a service bulliten to replace the valve cover and the crankcase vent system. Accoring to a Mazda mechanic, this is only a band-aid. The seal in the turbo is going bad due to improper crankcase venting. The turbo needs to be replaced. I had Mazda remove the valve cover to inspect the VVT actuator and found the timing chain was just starting to touch the valve cover. Long story short (I know too late). I'm having the turbo, VVT and timing chain replaced before the engine lets go. One bright side to the story. Ther was a federal Class Action Lawsuit filed in New Jersey in August of this year. I am going to try to get involved to see if I can get some of my $4300 back. One more thing. If you try to have this issue resolved under warranty. The factory (not the dealer) will require maintenance records (oil changes) or they will not honor the warranty repair. This is the basis of the lawsuit.

Based on my experience with the popping on decel, you now need to adjust the mixture. First do a carb sync. Then start with the setting the mixture at 2 turns out. Working one carb at a time turn the mix screw in until the idle increases then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. When the idle increases you are creating a lean setting which is bad. Check the sync on your carbs again and ride it. If you still have popping on decel work with one carb at a time on the side that is popping. Popping is usually caused by a rich mixture. Not all the carbs will be set the same. I have found up to one full turn difference in the settings between all 4 carbs. Make your adjustments in small increments. It took me a while to get both of my bikes to stop most of the popping on decel. After you get it where you think it's good, ride it. Run a tank of gas through and pull the plugs. They should be a light grey (not white, especially white with spots is not good) To make them lighter decrease mixture. To make them darker increase mixture. Adjust each carb based on the color you see. Make small adjustments and keep track of each carb setting for future reference. Run another tank of gas and check again. You may have to compromise between performance and popping on decel to some extent. It took me about three tanks of gas to get the mix where I wanted it. I average 45mpg and have very little popping. Good luck!

I have a 96 and 97 both with the stock slash cut mufflers. They don't have a deep rumble but I have been complemented on the sound. You can pick them up on ebay or at Pinwall. As far as the front shocks, I removed and polished mine. I didn't go for the chrome look, just a shiny brushed look. I painted them with automotive clear coat when I was done and haven't had any issues.

It was a two stage foam filter stuffed in the back of the filter housing. You could see it through the back of the derby housing when the filter was removed. It actually looked like it belonged there until it was removed. Then you could see it had been cut from a larger piece.

I returned the bike to the owner before I posted the help request. I have been relaying the fixes that have been posted. I finally started looking at the parts breakdown and found no pre-filter is listed. I had him remove the pre-filter that the previous owner or the fly-by-night mechanic installed. Problem solved. Thanks for the help.

I don't think the jets were changed. All the vacuum lines are attached. When I set the valve clearance I verified the cam timing marks were set properly. The bike runs like a banshee without the air filter. It's like a crotch rocket with saddle bags. I just can't figure out why it can't get enough air with the filter installed.

Yes it is a 2007 with electronic ignition and carburetors. There is an air box just like the 96 Royal star tour classic mounted under the tank. There is a duct that comes from the airbox to the back of the derby. Inside the derby there's a foam pre-filter and now a K & N filter. I have had it all off and cannot see any place where there is an obstruction. I'm just trying to figure out why it runs perfectly without the air filter and will not accelerate quickly with the air filter installed.

A buddy asked me to look at his V-Star 1100. It had been at some fly by night mechanic for 3 months. It originally went in for a fuel leak (float sticking) and a new rear tire. By the time he got it back it had a starter clutch upgrade, #1 intake valve replaced, rear tire replaced, a few odds and ends and still didn't run right. I pulled the carbs and found that he hadn't cleaned them even though he charged him for it. I cleaned and replaced both needle and seats and the bowl seals. He had opened the carbs because he used RTV (non-fuel resistant) to seal the old bowl seals. I found the valves on #1 way out of adjustment, so I fixed that. Replaced the missing nuts and bolts that were never reinstalled on numerous parts. After I got it all back together I synced the carbs and played with the mixture to get it running what I thought was perfect. Then I installed the air filter and derby and took it for another ride. Everything seemed great until I tried to accelerate hard. The engine would start to rev and then would die. If I add throttle slowly the bike ran great. I went back home to troubleshoot. Up to this point all the engine running was with out the air filter and derby so I could get to the carbs. So I took the air filter off and took the bike up the street. It worked great. I put the air filter back on and the problem came back. Problem solved, or so I thought. I told my buddy what I had found and he said he would buy a K&N filter. I gave the bike back to him and he put the new filter in. The problem has not gone away. As long as the filter and derby are installed you can't accelerate quickly with quick throttle movement. He said he removed the foam pre-filter and that made no difference. It sound to me like somewhere in the derby/filter there is a restriction in the air flow. Anyone have any other ideas?

Skydoc, I'm thinking about doing the valves on my 97. I did them on my 96 at 54k with Ruffy about a year and a half ago. I think we used your kit. (It had the bucket tool included) I only have 13k on the 97, but I hear valve noise at higher RPM's in all gears. I'm thinking I should do them now instead of waiting until 22k. I'll PM you when I'm ready.