ToyOdie

The only problem I ever had was the time it took to get my parts. All the other sites I ordered from would ship the same or next day. Partshark would take 3 or 4 days to ship and ther was never a tracking number to check status of the order. They do have the least expensive prices on most parts.

It seems that when you got the battery hooked up correctly and replaced the main fuse, everything was fine. That would suggest that the wash job is the culpret. I would go through ALL the electrical connections and clean them. Put some dielectric grease on each one. This will help water proof them for the future also. Check ALL your fuses and do the same with them. Since the turn signals blow the fuse and the running lights dont work, I would start in the head light and the handle handle bar switch control boxes. If you find the problem don't stop. Continue to clean an lube the entire electrical system to elimenate future problems. Nothing worse than chaseing electrical gremlins. Good Luck!

Might want to give Rick Butler a shout. I had my seat modded by him and it made a world of difference. Here is the link to his classified. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=21&title=butt-butler-seat-mod&cat=16

My 96 was Ethel so the 97 had to be Lucy.

OK, you got me curious. I went out and pulled One of my pipes and found no Yamaha part numbers. It just seems strange that both of my bikes had the same pipes on them. I did a search on Royal Star Tour classics and found several bikes with the same pipes that appear to be stock. All the bikes that I did find had the two-tone paint scheme. Maybe this was an option that the dealer could install.

Sorry...........

Several of the members have installed the Reckless fairing. It's made to order for the Royal Star. I would imagine it's pretty much Plug-n-Play after you hook up the electrical. Do a search on Reckless fairings and you should be able to fine more info. The first $12 bucks you should spend is becoming a member of this site. You'll never regret it. The wealth of information is priceless. Not to mention the frendships.

Here is a link to the fairing that I bought. Any of the fairings that have the word "Gelcoat" in the title are from the same vendor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Roadstar-Motorcycle-Fairing-1600-1700-2-Speaker-Batwing-Gelcoat-/351286976004?vxp=mtr&hash=item51ca55de04 When I bought it there were more available and you could bid on them. I spent almost 2 months bidding until I got it for the price I wanted to pay. (Nobody wanted to bid on Thanksgiving Day ) I built my fairing for less than $250. That included the stereo, speakers, and gauges. If your budget is up to $1000, I would look at fairings that come pre assembled. http://www.recklessmotorcycles.com/royal_star.htm or http://hoppeindustries.com/store/index.php?cPath=21_33_49 As far as fitment for mine. All I had to do was put a little "S" bend in the mount brackets to make them 1/4 inch wider to fit the stock windshield mount. DarrinGT bought a fairing for a Roadstar and did the same thing to make it fit. His wasn't the same as mine. The other thing you need to do is get a set of Venture risers so the fairing will clear. The Venture risers kick back. I also added a 2" riser extention to bring the bars back for comfort. That made all the difference for me. I also had RickButler mod my seat. Money well spent!

First of all nice bike. I have had a 96 RSTC and currently rida a 97 RSTC. The pipes on you bike are OEM. Both of mine had/have slash cut pipes. If I'm correct, the first bike with 4X2 was the 99 RSV. I can't remeber who, but I was told all 99-05 4X2 header pipes will fit our bikes. The support for the mufflers will need to be fabricated if you don't have the Yamaha hard bags and supports installed. I have been looking for the whole rear end from a Venture that I can swap. I would like to make mine a poor mans Venture. Besides it's more fun to build it yourself. Hear is a link for my fairing installation: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96433-Faring-Installation This is another couple of good links for Moding an early 2nd gen RSTC http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?56020-Time-to-start-Tearing-into-the-Bike&highlight=tearing+bike http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?83141-Tearing-into-the-bike-part-Deux&highlight=DarrinGT

Here is a link with several options on bleeding the clutch and brake cylinders. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?113732-Brake-and-clutch-bleeding&p=945987#post945987

With these light you don't need to spend $800. I got the set of driving lights and headlight for just over $200. 1800 lumens for the driving lights and the headlight is 2000 lumens. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?115134-New-LED-Lights

Since your throwing in one year of service, you can put me down for a Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic with all the goodies. "Service" does include tires doesn't it? I will keep my Royal Star for when it's being serviced.

I'ts a true Hi/Lo beam headlight. The driving lights are 20 degree flood. The outside pictures don't really show how bright they are. Trust me they are bright. Think about the truck with the LED light bar on bumper. I'm that guy. I had to adjust my driving lights down as much as I could to keep them from blinding everyone. There is no doubt I can be seen both day and night.

I finally got my Christmas/birthday present installed. I originally ordered an LED headlight (H4hi/lo) from Peterbiltparts.com. It fit great and was easy to install. The light pattern wasn't very good on low beam but the high beam was fantastic. I returned it with no issues. I continued my research and found LED headlight bulb and driving lights from SoCalMoto.com They were available from J&P Cycles so I ordered them. The difference is like night and day. Here are some pictures of OEM and LED. Headlight http://www.jpcycles.com/product/207-526 Driving Lights http://www.jpcycles.com/product/207-423

If you order today from YAMAHAPARTSHOUSE.COM you should have them by the end of the week.

When I decided to change to LED turn signals on my 96 RSTC, I went with the Custom Dynamics LED signals and Kuryaken run/stop/turn (PN 4710 Universal Run-Turn-Brake Controller). I also changed the rear lenses to red and installed the Custom Dynamics LED brake light. Installing the unit was simple however, I couldn't get the front to work properly. When you turned either one on, they would both go out. I ordered the resister for a single indicator speedo, the electronic signal relay and a second load equalizer for the front. After installing and trying several configurations, including following the instructions, I still could not get the front signals to work correctly. I gave up on the front and went back to standard bulbs. When I picked up a 97 RSTC I swapped all the LED's over to it. I did find the turn signal relay was different (5-wire on the 97 vs. 3-wire on the 96) The 5-wire included auto-cancel which the 96 did not have. I manufactured a 3-wire adapter to use the electronic flasher relay and decided to try the front again. Low and behold they worked perfectly. The wiring on the 97 must be a little different. I did lose the auto-cancel function but I can live with that. All that said I believe Kuryaken and Custom Dynamics both have a complete setup for your 06 RSV. You should be able to install the kit in an hour or two.

ESD PRODUCT SERVICE SUPPORT SUBJECT:NEW RETAIN TIP Record number: H031944 Device: D/T8550 Model: M Hit count: UHC00000 Success count: USC00000 Publication code: PC50 Tip key: 025 Date created: O89/02/14 Date last altered: A89/02/15 Owning B.U.: USA Abstract: MOUSE BALLS NOW AVAILABLE AS FRU (Field Replaceable Unit) TEXT: MOUSE BALLS ARE NOW AVAILABLE AS A FRU. IF A MOUSE FAILS TO OPERATE,OR SHOULD PERFORM ERRATICALLY, IT MAY BE IN NEED OF BALL REPLACEMENT. BECAUSE OF THE DELICATE NATURE OF THIS PROCEDURE, REPLACEMENT OF MOUSE BALLS SHOULD BE ATTEMPTED BY TRAINED PERSONNEL ONLY. BEFORE ORDERING,DETERMINE TYPE OF MOUSE BALLS REQUIRED BY EXAMINING THE UNDERSIDE OF EACH MOUSE. DOMESTIC BALLS WILL BE LARGER AND HARDER THAN FOREIGN BALLS. BALL REMOVAL PROCEDURES DIFFER,DEPENDING UPON MANUFACTURER OF THE MOUSE. FOREIGN BALLS CAN BE REPLACED USING THE POP-OFF METHOD, AND DOMESTIC BALLS REPLACED USING THE TWIST-OFF METHOD. MOUSE BALLS ARE NOT USUALLY STATIC SENSITIVE, HOWEVER, EXCESSIVE HANDLING CAN RESULT IN SUDDEN DISCHARGE. UPON COMPLETION OF BALL REPLACEMENT, THE MOUSE MAY BE USED IMMEDIATELY. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT EACH SERVICER HAVE A PAIR OF BALLS FOR MAINTAINING OPTIMUM CUSTOMER SATISFACTION,AND THAT ANY CUSTOMER MISSING HIS BALLS SHOULD SUSPECT LOCAL PERSONNEL OF REMOVING THESE NECESSARY FUNCTIONAL ITEMS. P/N33F8462--DOMESTIC MOUSE BALLS P/N33F8461--FOREIGN MOUSE BALLS This came out of an IBM service database. Of course it's referring to the rubber ball inside a computer mouse...

This is in response to an actual insurance claim. If you have bladder problems, you might want to relieve yourself before continuing......... Donald Smirthwaite, adjustor Standish Insurance Company, Inc. 473 Ogallala Ave Sioux City, IA 51101 Re: Claim no. 54784 (More detailed explanation) Dear Mr. Smirthwaite: I am writing in response to your request for additional information. In block number three of the accident reporting form, I put, quote ... poor planning ... unquote, as the cause of my accident. You said in your letter that I should explain more fully and so I trust that the following details will be sufficient. I am a bricklayer by trade. On the day of the accident, I was working alone on the roof of a new six-story building. When I completed my work, I discovered that I had about 500 pounds of brick left over. Rather than carry all of the bricks down six flights of stairs a few at a time, I decided to lower them in an empty barrel someone had left behind, using a pulley which was conveniently attached to a projecting beam on the side of the building at the sixth floor. First, I procured a stout rope twice as long as the height of the building at the sixth floor and threaded it through the pulley. Then I rigged a sling for the barrel, attached it to the rope, and went down and secured the rope at ground level to a small tree, with a slip knot. I then went back to the roof, swung the barrel out and carefully loaded the bricks into it. They all went in nicely. Then, quite pleased, I went back to the ground and pulled the slip knot loose, holding the rope tightly to ensure the slow descent of the 500 pounds of bricks. The next sequence of events occurred in much less time than it takes to relate them. You will note, in block number eleven of the accident reporting form, that I weigh 145 pounds. Thus I was unsuccessful in slowly lowering the barrel of bricks. As soon as the rope was untied, I was propelled upward at an astonishing velocity. Dazed at being jerked off the ground so suddenly, I momentarily lost my presence of mind and forgot to let go of the rope. I proceeded at a rapid rate up the side of the building. In the vicinity of the third floor, I collided with the descending barrel, which explains the fractured skull and broken collarbone. Slowed only briefly, I continued my rapid ascent, stopping only when the fingers of my right hand entered the pulley, explaining the contusions and abrasions of the fingers. Fortunately, by this time I regained my presence of mind and was able to hold tightly to the rope despite the pain of my injuries, which you can imagine. At precisely that moment, however, the barrel of bricks hit the ground. Did I mention that it was an old wooden barrel? Anyway, the bottom burst, spilling all the bricks. Devoid of the bricks, of course the barrel became considerably lighter. I refer you again to my weight in block eleven, 145 pounds. As you may imagine, I began a very rapid descent down the side of the building. Again, in the vicinity of the third floor, I met the now empty barrel coming up. This accounts for the multiple contusions and the lacerations to my legs and lower body. The encounter with the barrel slowed my fall barely enough to lessen my injuries when I fell into the pile of bricks, resulting, fortunately, in only three cracked vertebrae and badly sprained ankles. I am sorry to report, however, that, as I lay there on the bricks, in agony, unable to stand and watching the empty barrel six stories above me, I'm afraid I again lost my presence of mind and let go of the rope. Which explains the internal injuries, broken ribs and upper body lacerations. I hope this explanation will suffice for your office. Have a nice day! Yours sincerely, Bjorn Luzer --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How many time have you been asked what you want for Christmas? Did you have a reasonable answer? I knew what I wanted but didn't want anyone to spend too much, so my answer was "I don't know" or "Nothing". After answering the question too many times to count, I finally answered "An LED headlight for my bike". So last night I ordered one. This is what I ordered. https://www.peterbiltparts.com/lighting/headlamps/lamps-bulbs/mhl-07hilo. The next time someone asks what I want for Christmas I'll say, "LED driving lights to go with my headlight". By the way, what is the Truck-Lite part number for 4.5" driving lights?

I found that when bleeding the clutch or brakes that had an empty reservoir, I needed to tap on the banjo fitting at the reservoir. As I did the air would slowly move up the line and come out as very small bubbles. It takes awhile to get them all out. First cover any painted surface that might get brake fluid on it. Fill the reservoir and close the bleeder. Pump the lever only far enough to get the bubbles to come out. PUMP VERY SLOWLY. Tap on the banjo fitting and keep going. Once the bubbles stop, bleed them at the bleeder normally. You might need to repeat this procedure more than once to get all the air out. I also put Speed Bleeders on all my brakes and clutch to make the job easier.

Don, I have been a member of this site since 2009. I did lurk for a few months researching what kind of bike the Royal Star was. I was trying to find a bike that I could aford and maintain myself. This site was and still is the reason I have my Royal Star. The members have been a wealth of information and humor. The site may need a little tweeking, but it's great the way it is. I have looked at other forums and found in most cases they were difficult to locate the information I was looking for. As the Royal Star line ages, the people that will buy them will need resources like this one to keep them road worthy or bring them back to life. I have personally recomended this site to every Royal Star owner I have met. Some of them (hopefully) may even be members. Ruffy is the only member that I met in person. However, I have been in contact with several others while resolving issues with my bike. Every interaction with the folks from this site has been a godsend. In the future I hope I can make it to some of the rallys and meet-n-eats. Retirement is getting closer so I might even get to attend "Freebird's Maintenance Day". Every year I follow the chatter that leads up to the event. Then I look forward to the pictures and reading the stories from member who attended. This site is about our passion for riding bikes, but it's even more about the faimly this site has formed. It's said that "you can pick your friends but you can't pick your family". I think this is the exception to the rule.

After reading the entire thread, I'm convinced it's a fuel starvation issue. An electrical problem wouldn't normally fix itself so quick. The initial ride goes for about 20 miles then it dies. After a short period you can start it and ride a short way and it dies again. Sounds like fuel flow can't keep the float bowls full. I would replace the fuel filter again and check the flow from the fuel pump. Then I would remove the carbs and clean them paying close attention to the needle and seat. Another thing I would consider is the tank petcock. I would remove it and check to see if its clear. If its the same as the RSV it will have a screen on the pickup. Floating particles can clog he screen causing low flow. When the demand goes away (it dies) some fall away until demand draws them back to the screen. I have seen this in cars, bikes and small engines.

I had several mini bikes in my young teens. My first titled bike was a 1966 Honda CL160 when I turned 18. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/322691.jpg

Rick..........YOUR THE MAN!!!!! I backed off the castle nuts on the head bearings about 1/3 of a turn and the problem went away. I did have it over tightened. Thanks for the help.

I was busy this weekend so I didn't have a chance to research the problem. After work I'll loosen the head bearings and try again. Yes I did pack them full when I replaced them. Plan "B" turned out to be a bust. I looked at a 2006 RSV for $5500. It would have been a good project for half the price. Every painted part needed at least paint. The right side bag was cracked from the inside. The gas tank looked like he had a tank slapper. It also had a coolant leak. Most of the chrome was pitted and or rusted. With only 18,000 miles it looked sad. I'm always looking for something I can't pass up. I took a pass on this one.