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ToyOdie

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Everything posted by ToyOdie

  1. Prayers sent.
  2. ToyOdie

    screen name

    I got mine back in 89 when I was stationed in keflavick Iceland. My 2yr old daughter gave me an Odie (Bloom County comic) stuffed animal to take with me. I put some velcro on the bottom and put it up on the back of my seat of my Toyota 4x4 pickup. Everyone started calling me ToyOdie and been using it ever since. We also had "Bill the Cat" (old beat up Blazer), "Nermal" (plane jane S-10) "Opus" (smart ass F-150), "Bigfoot" (old Dodge Power Wagon with bald tires) and "Garfield" (Jeep Wrangler).
  3. ToyOdie

    UGH!

    I went for a ride at lunch today and had to put on some 30SPF to keep for burning. Don't get me wrong, the weather is great right now but we had to suffer throught the 100* with 90% humidity days of summer to get here. I grew up in southern Ohio so I know what your talking about. I miss the white stuff, but not that much.
  4. Just wet to Yamaha Parts House and looked up some part numbers. I was wrong (or just mistaken) the part numbers for the Venture in differnt years are different. :thumbdown:That leads me to beleave that they might not fit. What year are you trying to fit one on? You also have to remeber that the key will be different from the ignition and bags.
  5. I really don't know....but my bet guess is yes. Gas caps are pretty standard size.
  6. There are a set of instructions that come with the bleeders. I removed each caliper to prevent fluid from getting on the pads and rotors. They are only held on by two bolts and are easy to work with. Also, there is a great "how to and cautions" on the web site. You might want to take a look at it. It's a very simple job and worth the extra time to do it right.
  7. Here is the link for the Speed Bleeders. You can get them from Dennis Kirk or Curiser Customizing also. If you don't get them from Speedbleeder.com they go by the brand name of Russell Speed Bleeders. They are the same ones under a different name. https://www.speedbleeder.com
  8. Yes I did. Be aware that ther is a hole in the bottom of the reservoir to bleed pressure off. It will send up a geyser if yoy pump too fast. I put a rag on my tank and bars to catch any fluid that cam out.
  9. When you do the front, start with the left side (when sitting on the bike). I'm not sure where I read it, but by bleeding the left side first you can get the bubble out of the master cylinder right below the plunger.
  10. I'm not sure about the mighty vac, but you should be able to do it the old fashoned way like you said. I did it that way until I put on my speed bleeders. You just have to watch out that you don't run the cylinder dry. If you do you'll have to start over. When you get it done, you really need to look into Speed Bleeders. They make the job super easy.
  11. I always like the DIY method of mods. However in this case I found from a wireing and safety standpoint that the Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake controller was my best and easiest option. I purchased it from CruiserCustomizing.com and added the red lenses for less than $10. The whole setup was only $77.78 with shipping. And the best part is it only took about 20 min to install. I have included pictures and the part numbers. KY-4710 Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake Controller - Metric Cruisers $59.49 KY-2267 Kuryakyn Red Replacement Turn Signal Lenses - Yamaha (pr) $9.34
  12. I went down on Friday. Mainly stayed on Main St and the Iron Horse. I did see a few Ventures and RSTD's. This was the first time I've been to any of the bike events in Daytona, (I didn't have a bike). The guys I went with from work told me that it was much smaller than past years. It was great fun anyway. It's all about the ride!!!!
  13. There are several variation to the homemade carb sync tool on this forum. Here is the link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34376 I went with the 2 Snapple bottle setup. The discription is at the end of page 2 and the pictures are at the beginning of page 3. No, it won't do all 4 carbs at the same time, but it is very steady and accurate. With the stuff I had lying around it didn't cost $10 to build it.
  14. ToyOdie

    OMG!

    Yesterday I went ou to run some erands and the bike was feeling great. On the way home apperantly I took the turn into my sub-division a little sharper than I ususlly do and it finally happened. I drug the right floorboard. In all the years I have been riding I've never had anything on the ground except the tires and my feet. It sure did get my attention. The scraping sound sent chills up my spine and I think my heart skipped a beat. Now I know what the limit is on my bike and what to expect when it happens.
  15. I read several threads on mounting a garage door opener on the RSV and newer RSTD's. None of them were on the older RSTD's. So here is what I did. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3C9%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C483%3B958329nu0mrj First I opened up the remote an soldered wires to the activation button. When the cover is closed, the wires come through the whole in the front of the cover. You might have to create one on your remote. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43332%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843753329nu0mrj Then I found a suitable location for the remote button. I decided that behind the seat near the ignition switch was easy to get at, out of the way, and had plenty of room to work with. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3B6%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843756329nu0mrj I wired a momentary button from Radio Shack ($2.39) and heat shrinked the wires. Make sure the switch is "N O" (normally open) so it only activates when you press the button. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43335%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C483%3B959329nu0mrj Next I removed the drivers seat and drilled a hole for the button. Mine needed to be 3/8". http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp432%3B%3A%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C484374%3B329nu0mrj I installed the button. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43333%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843754329nu0mrj I removed the right side cover and had to relocate the relay from the center mount to the back one to make room for the remote. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43445%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843755329nu0mrj Relay now on the back mount. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43332%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4846947329nu0mrj I used a zip tie to secure the remote to the two front mounts. Then I connected the button and the remote with bullet connectors to allow me to remove it if necessary for maintenance. http://images.photos1.walmart.com/232323232%7Ffp43453%3Enu%3D33%3B6%3E%3A%3B9%3E238%3EWSNRCG%3D32%3C4843757329nu0mrj Thats it! Simple, out of the way, easy to activate, and less than $3.00 out of my pocket.
  16. Congradulations! I told you that it wasn't that hard. I looked in the manual and couldn't find an idle mix / lean/rich screw. I think I remember reading of that adjustment in a thread somewhere. A good carb sync should take care of the problem. You might try running some Seafoam in the gas for a couple of tanks, that helped my performance quite a bit. I run it about every 5th tank now just for maintance.
  17. I had the same issue with my 96 RSTD. Last week I pulled the carbs off and used Plastic Dip to coat the intake boots. I had some good size cracks, but none of them came close to going all the way through. The Plastic Dip worked like a dream. At the Home Depot they have both spray on and brush on in the paint department with the spray paint. Make sure the surface is CLEAN. I used soap, water, and a brush then rubbing alcohol. I tried the spray on first, but it wouldn't fill the cracks so I went and got the brush on and a can of naptha. Brush a coat of the Plastic Dip on and before it dries brush it with the naptha, (you can use the same brush). The brush marks will disapear and you get a nice smooth finish. I waited about an hour and applied a second coat. All my cracks are gone. It took me about 5 hours total from start to finish to complete the whole project. (I had never taken my carbs off before, so I took my time) After I put everthing back together I did a carb sync. It really isn't that hard if you take your time and pay attention how things came apart. One tip, the wireing harness on the left frame rail needs to be moved in and above the carbs BEFORE you lift the carbs. If you don't the carb assy will not fit through the opening and is very hard to get back in place to move the harness. (don't ask me how I know) Good luck
  18. I just had mine apart today. The only connection for the front brake light switch is at the switch itself. The only connections that I found under the tank were for the carb heater and the fuel lever sending unit. I have a 96 RSTD so my speedo in on top of the tank and there are two more connectors there. One for the speedo and one for the odo reset button.
  19. I always tell everyone to "Work smarter, Not harder" Well guess what, I need to follow my own motto. Try the easy stuff first. I disconnected the cables from the carb and found that the carbs returned just fine without the grip/cables hooked up. Therefor the problem was somewhere up stream from the carbs. Since I wanted to pull the carbs to plastic dip the intake boots I went ahead and did that. By the way the paint on type Plastic dip works great if you thin it with Naptha. It will fill any cracks and finishes smooth. After I got the carbs back on I removed my throttle grip to check everything in the switch housing and to clean the bar inside the grip again. The grip was still tight on the bar. Not sticking tight, just slightly binding. I cleaned everything again and still couldn't figure it out. Then just by chance I removed my throttle rocker from the grip and everything loosened up. (I did mention the I have a homemade rocker earlier in this thread) It wraps 3/4 around the grip and has an edge that digs into the rubber between the chrome bars on the stock grip. The edge was pushing hard enough to tighten the grip on the bar. Unless I can modify the rocker, I'll have to invest in a factory made one. I do plan on installing ISO grips at some point, I can add the grip end rocker then. Thanks for all the help.
  20. I have a homemade throttle rocker but no bar end weight. I did remove the rocker and still have to problem. I'll disconnect the cables from the carb (yamaduck's solution will be checked at this time) and see if the linkage is free without the cables. It's not sticking full open grip will stay wherever you stop. Like a poor mans cruise control.
  21. The other problem I see is that the transmitter only uses 1.5 volts and you are hitting it with 12 volts. (constant if you leave the high beams on) I dont think the unit will last very long that way. There was another post that attached a small button that extended from the transmitter to the inner fairing (at a location of your choice) It still used the battery in the transmitter. The only down side was changing the battery at some point.
  22. Thank, but I already did that. I took the whole grip off and even cleaned the inside ofthe rotating part and put a good coat of wax on the handle bar. I'm thinking of removing the cables from the carb end and checking to see if the belcrank returns smoothly without the grip connected. At least I'll be able to identify if its in the grip/cables or the carb linkage. I'll go from there.
  23. I have a problem with my throttle grip. It's not returning to idle on it's own. It started after the bike sat in the rain at work. I have lubbed the cables and tried to lube the linkage with no success. I would apperciate any suggestions. I can still ride but it's not comforting keeping a constant grip to return the throttle.
  24. why didn't I think of that
  25. dug050 sent me a PDF for the early RSTD's. It does show the adjustment screws located differenty from the newer RSTD's and Ventures. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/at...6&d=1282743896
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