ToyOdie
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Everything posted by ToyOdie
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Thanks guys. The link to Pegscrapers thread was great. I haven't been into the clutch yet, but I'm pretty good with the wrenches and I always have the experts on this site if I run into any problems. Now all I have to do is get this past my banker. But, the possibility of making a little extra cash for my effort should win her over. I like the idea of getting an estimate for the repair and getting the price down might help too. I might go for the Jugular and see what happens. Even if I only get it down to $2000 I can't go wrong. That is, if that's the only problem with the bike. BTW: I plan on trailering the bike home if I buy it. Is there any posibility of damage by starting it and/or riding it a short way to see if there are any other issues? I'll let you know what the verdict is.
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OK all you super mechanics. I found a 1996 RSTD for $2500 on craigslist. It looks real nice in the pictures and only has 24,000 miles. Here's the bad news. He says it needs 4th and 5th gear replaced and the carbs tuned. The carbs are not a problem for me. Is there any known issues that would cause 4th and 5th not to work (linkage?, shift fork?), and how hard is it (whats involved) to do the repair myself. Would I have to remove the engine or can I do the repair on the bike? The bike has a lot of safety chrome I could swap over to my bike and maybe sell this one for a little profit if I can do the work. Let me know what you think.
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Mine wants LED taillights and turn signals, riser extentions a valve adjustment and a good bath. Hard to keep it clean when I ride it everyday. Sorry you guys up north have to put yours to bed for the winter.
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I had the same problem with my 96. When was the last time you changed the brake fluid. I found the fluid in the master cylinder was like jello at the bottom. I cleaned it out and ran fluid through the system. It got better but not the way it should be. I finally decided that the lever just wasn't getting any better, so I ordered speed bleeders and flushed the system with a full quart of fresh fluid. Once I got ALL the air out and lubed the lever piviot, the problem was gone. Now I can use the front brake the way they were intended. I still have a problem with the rear brake. My fluid level is going down with no sign of a leak. I know what you are thinking. "This is normal with wear on the pads". I agree except I have filled the resovoir at least half way 3 times since I put new pads on and they still have more than half the pad left. The brake works fine. I just have to keep an eye on the level. I hope I've helped you with your problem now if I can figure out mine.
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Help-right aft or #3 cyl Popping noise
ToyOdie replied to ptynning's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to look into that one, if I can find a guy like yours. The only people around here that I know about are stealers. Did he do the gas analizer on the other 3 cylinders too? -
Where do you live?
ToyOdie replied to slim_32's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Fleming Island Florida (Just south of Jacksonville). The back roads arn't twisty but the views are great if you like pine trees and swamps. I recommend staying off I95 between Jax and Daytona if you want to live!!! It's dangerous for the cages and suicide for bikes. Take US 1 to St Augustine and then A1A along the beach. If you miss Daytona, the next stop is Key West. You won't regret the ride. Plenty of places to stop for refreshment. -
Help-right aft or #3 cyl Popping noise
ToyOdie replied to ptynning's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I also have a 96 RSTD and it does the same thing on the lower left cyl (#1 if I'm correct) when the engine is cold. I don't get the popping above idle, but I do get it on deceleration. I have yet to find anything that will stop the popping. The only thing that I haven't done yet is a valve adjustment. I'm not sure if that will fix it but I need to do the adjustment anyway. I'll let you know what happenes when I do the valves. BTW, thanks for the info on the plug wires. I was wondering if the wires could be changed without changing the coils. -
Passing lamp switch
ToyOdie replied to pofarm's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I also have a 96 RS. It has the toggle switch on the right light. It appears to have come that way from the factory. The lights are on all the time (low or high beam) unless you turn the toggle off. I can reach mine from the saddle if I'm at a stop. I wouldn't try to reach that far while riding. -
I bought a new set of E3's from Jake Wilson a few weeks back and finally installed them. The difference is amazing. I didn't realize just how bad my bike was handling. When I bought the bike in February of 2010 it had 34,000 miles and I had no idea how many miles were on the tires but they were in great shape. I put 12,000 more miles on them before I decided it was time for a new set. Riding in Florida, most of the riding is flat so the center of the tire wears much faster. That makes turning gradually require more effort. It happens so slowly that until I had new tires I didn't even notice. I now understand why there is a "recommended" break in period to scuff the tires in and get used to how the handleing has changed. Up until now I had only drug the floorboards twice. Can you say "pucker factor" when you don't expect it. Now (after 200 miles) I have drug the boards several time without feeling like I was about to lay the bike down. The grip and control is exceptional with the new tires. Parking lot manuvers are also much easier. I'm only 5' 10" and always felt the size of the bike. Now the bike feels much smaller. I don't think I'll let this set get as worn as the last set before I replace them. I love the feel of new tires in the morning.
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I just received my front tire replacement from Jake Wilson. The date code is 2411. I am happy to report that the customer service at Jake Wilson is top notch and would highly recommend them to anyone wanting to purchase tires. As I stated previously, I would recommend calling to place the order to avoid date issues with tires.
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I just got off the phone with Jake Wilson customer service. I have to say I was very pleased with how they handled the situation. I told them what the issue was and she placed me on hold to have a "tech" check three tires. All the codes were 2011. She made a note to the "pickers" that I should get a tire that is no older than 2010. They are shipping one today. If the lady I spoke with when I ordered the tire had made that note on my original order, I wouldn't have gone through this. Over all I very pleased with the service that Jack Wilson provides. My sugestion to those of you that need date specific products is: 1) make a phone order rather than online. 2) Have the customer service rep add a note to the order that specifies the "no older than date" for the order pullers. 3) follow up if you have any problems. Jake Wilson really wants to make it right. I will add a red grease pencil mark to the date stamp of the tire before I return it. Let's see if any one else gets it : )
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I called my son, who just chaecked the DOT numbers and verified what I had seen. The tront tire was manufactured 3907. Guess I'll be calling Jack Wilson tomarrow to get it replaced.
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I'll check both tires when I get home tonight. Sounds like I might be looking in the wrong place. I only looked for the oval with 4 digits in it. Thanks
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I ordered E3 tires from Jake Wilson and they arrived yesterday. The rear tire has a date stamp of 1310 and the front is 3907. When I ordered the tires, I called and asked them to check the date codes for me. The lady I talked to assured me that the tires sell so fast that I souldn't have any problem with getting old tires because they rotate their stock. I'm planning on calling tomarrow to see about returning the front tire for a newer one. I remember reading a thread about this happening to someone else on the site. How should I handle the call to asure that I get a tire that is hopefully 2 years old or less?
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http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR5aF1pcktdEaZYBoS9G7J1hOTVmD6rySumIfzO5YRwVcYlbYd1
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I noticed the other day that my rear brake pedal was going down farther than normal. I changed my pads abouth 6000 mile ago so I thought I was due for new ones. When I did a visual check by removing the inspection cover, it looked like they were getting close enough to change. I went out and bought some new ones and started to change them. When I removed them, I discovered that I had at least half of the pad left. The outside pad had worn slightly more than the inside so I decided to swap them. In the process of compressing the pistons, I decided to check the fluid level in my reservoir and found it EMPTY! I finished installing the pads and added fluid to the reservoir. The level must have been just below the bowl because it I got a few bubbles come up while filling and when I blead the breaks I didn't get any air from the caliper. I ran enough fluid through the system to ensure that ther wasn't any air in it. My pedal is tight and working perfectly. Now the mystery begins. I inspected the entire rear brake system to figure out where my leak was (I surly had to have a leak). To my surprise I couldn't find any evidence of a leak or even dirt collecting where the had been a leak. I've been working on cars, airplanes, and bike most of my life and have never had brake fluid just disapear. Hydraulic fluid doesn't evaporate (as far as I know).So where did it go? I know that the reservoir was full the last time I installed pads and I have checked the site window ocasionally when I was cleaning the bike. Has anyone else seen this or have a resonable explaination?
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Need Prayers for Ponch!!!
ToyOdie replied to Sweetnothing's topic in Inspirational, Motivational, Prayer Requests, Etc.
Prayers sent. -
I just Googled "Covered Bridges in Ohio" and came up with this site. There are all kinds of them within an easy distance from central Ohio. This site also has maps to get you there. (and back again:biker:) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&sqi=2&ved=0CB8QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww2.dot.state.oh.us%2Fse%2Fcoveredbridges%2F&ei=hlwoTqOHKtGztwezy9W7Cg&usg=AFQjCNGKQXGxViaI7xeNjgj5C3e-kuEG1A
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I was looking at your post and did a Google search for Gauge Repair. This looks like one worth looking into. http://www.joellevinecompany.com/
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From the album: Biketoberfest 2010
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From the album: Biketoberfest 2010
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From the album: Biketoberfest 2010
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From the album: Biketoberfest 2010
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From the album: Biketoberfest 2010
