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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    The Old Plug caps--- the rubber seals get damaged with time where they seal around the Spark Plugs. Plug wire is just 7MM solid core wire, you can get in bulk and most any auto parts store. NGK carries a Cap, ( 5000 ohm ) much cheaper then Yamaha OEM. The worst part of the job is removeing the Air filter box to get access to the Coils in order to change the wires. Your wires might be loose at the Coils. Plugs avialable most any auto parts store
  2. GeorgeS
    Read thru Editty posting today, one of many
  3. GeorgeS
    Ok, Here are P/n 2006 model, 4x7-46101-00-00 ----------------1989 model, 1NL-46101-00-00 The P/n for the Entire Pumpkin Unit. ------------- So, if I understand you correctly, 2nd Gen riders are useing 5th Gear, when they should still be in 4th gear. ?? Hmmmm ??? Ok, the way I have been shifting my 89 ( for 67,000 miles ) is I usually don't shift into 5th untill I'm up to Highway cruzing speed. Most in town driveing I stay in 4th gear. This as a general rule of thumb. 4th gear = ratio 1.068, 5th gear 0.906 ( overdrive ) for my 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gear Ratio's for Succeding Model Years --- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 83 -85 1st--2.608 -- 2nd 1.770-- 3rd 1.350 --4th 1.070 -- 5th 0.910 (OD )---Wgt. 716 lb. 86 to 93 1st 2.60-- 2nd 1.772 -- 3rd 1.347-- 4th 1.068 -- 5th 0.906( OD ) -- Wgt. 767 lb. 96 to 00 1st 2.437- 2nd 1.578 -3rd 1.160 - 4th 0.906 (OD)- 5th 0.750 (OD )-Wgt. RSTD 787lb 01 to 07 1st 2.529- 2nd 1.632 - 3rd 1.200 - 4th 0.960 (OD ) -5th 0.786 (OD )-Wgt 807lb. RSV ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, Squeez, I see what you are getting at !! I did not realize that the 2nd gens were geared that much higher. Considering that the 2nd gen, is a heavier Bike, and most folks rideing double, I see where Useing 4th or 5th before Reaching Highway speeds would not be to wise. So if I understand you correctly, you think that folks are lugging down the engines, and doing some kind of damage to the Tranny. And thus the problem is in the transmisions. So this would be why, when folks have the Rear Ends Changed by Yamaha, in most case's its not fixing the problem, because the tranny is still damaged. I have always been in the habit of downshifting to 4th, IF I'm in 5th, and want to accellerate to a higher speed. And I have done very little 2 up rideing. Almost none. So I can see, where the higher Overdrive Ratio's of the 2nd gens might be causing this. Looking at the Ratio's I would consider 3rd to be " High " Gear, and 4th and 5th only Overdrive's to be used at Full highway cruzing speeds. OK, the can of worms isn " Opened " !!!!
  4. GeorgeS
    OK here's my Question, I do not have a 2nd Gen, I have an 89. So, I have been reading postings concerning 2nd Gen Rear End problems for over 2 years now. And No Such problems seem to be showing up on the 1st Gen's, ( other then the slight clicking sounds, eaisly fixed with some greese ) I have looked at the IPC, and looked at both old and new ventures at the rear ends. They both seem to be the same. So, Why all the problems with the 2nd gen rear ends ????? I don't get it. --- So obviuous Question would, be, Can a 1st Gen Rear End be Installed on a 2nd Gen bike, ????? Would this fix the problem ??? Or should I keep quiet and go down and clean my garage ?? ( its Raining, nothing else to do, my 89 is running like a Swiss Watch !! )
  5. GeorgeS
    Souonds like you Charging System is in Perfect Health !!!!!! After looking under the Seat, go back to the left handlebar, follow the Cable from the Turn Signal Switch as it Feeds its way thru the Handle Bars, and then Toward the Area behind the Head light assembly. Sounds like as you drive the bike, and move the bars, a cabel is Stressed, and maby worn thru to ground someplace. Sound like an Intermittant Short circuit to me.
  6. GeorgeS
    A friend of mine is starting a Restoration Project on a "1950 Triumph 650 Thunderbird" . He will be shipping it from San Diego, to Seattle in near future. The plan is to do a complete Restoration, and Return it to " As Stock " Condition. Anyway, I may be seeking some advice from you over there as this project progress's. Good luck.
  7. GeorgeS
    Great,!!!!!!!! try to get several hours of running time on the Engine now Useing Whatever brand of " Fuel System Cleaner " " Fuel injector cleaner " that you have avialable over there in England. We all use a product called --- " Sea Foam " --- here in U.S. Most Any " Fuel Injector Cleaner " will also do the job. I strongly suggest that you Clean ( with electrical contact cleaner ) " EVERY !! electrical plug on the Entire bike. Nose to Tail !! and Left to right side!! All of them!! And all Relay electrical Plugs, The metal of the Pins in the plugs, is Very Prone to Corrosion !!! High Resistance Connections, are a major problem on these bikes. Especially in Damp, rainy Climates, ( Like England, and Seattle !!!! )
  8. GeorgeS
    Home page, then click " Forums ' left side. Then Scroll down to " First Gen Tech Library. then Guides, Parts Diagrams, Etc. then " first Gen Service Manuals. OK, now you can DownLoad the Entire " Service Manual " Go to Page 7-11, for a Block Diagram of the Entire Starting Circuit, and all the components that are Involved. Don't worry about what the Shift Indicator Indicates, This would simply be a Seperate problem. ( ie. the Swicth, picks up a ground, for each gear position, sends it to the Indicator, has no effect on starting ) Read thru Everything on page 7-11, There Several Items involved the starting Circuit . Read thru everything on this page. I would start by cleaning the electrical connects to all the Relays, and the side stand switch. Also, see the Main Schematic, page 8-41, here you will also see all the cable Enroute Plugs, that are involved. More complete then page 7-11. Also, sounds like you Might have an Start Relay going bad, Maby ! Also, get a spray can of CRC 2-26, Electrical Contact Cleaner, or similiar product, use it on your Ignition Switch, Run Stop Switch, Clutch Switch, Side Stand Switch , and All Relays, and Plugs that you see on page 7-11. Also, carefully check all the Wire Cables located Under the Lft Side Tran case cover. Especially the 2 Wire cable running to the Side Stand Switch. A lot of us , have simply Hard Wired the Side Stand switch to the " UP " position. This should get you started, Sounds like you might have a wire worn thru to Ground someplace, or an Intermittant Open wire. George S
  9. GeorgeS
    I've noticed that of late, the Wacko's have been kind of quiet about Al Gore, and his stupid book. I don't detect any warming !! Word is the Glaciers on Mt. St. Helens are growing. Not a word about this in the Seattle local press. Guess it does not fit their model.
  10. GeorgeS
    Thats, what I thought. I guess the question, is, Is it possible to convert the entire bike to 12 Volts, ?? Anyway will be looking into it.
  11. GeorgeS
    --- Be sure you have them in the North West Mountain States. Its been running 10 deg. below normal, and its been Raining raining raining.
  12. GeorgeS
    Yes, the above Link !! Do Not , hook the Wire to the Old " Water Level Sensor " directly to 12 VOLTS !!! If you do, it will fry the Circuit board in the Instrument Panel. Install the Resistor, this will lower the voltage to about 3 to 4 volts, that is felt on the Instrument panel computer. Be sure to Hook it to a Switched 12 volt point. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ You have to pull the left side covers to make the repair, you might as well Install a " NEW " Clutch Slave Cylinder, as long as your in the area. ( About $30.00 ) Rebuild the Master also. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  13. GeorgeS
    The " Barrometric Pressur Sensor " vac line is hooked to the #2 cylinder ( Forward , left, cylinder ) Aft, lft, is #1 cylinder. I would not worry to much about the Pressure sensor, untill you get All other problems solved. All it does is Change The Timeing, a little as the Intake manifold Vaccume changes. Just be Sure that All 4 Intake Manifold, Vaccume Test Ports, are Capped Off, and no leaks there. You can sort out any problems with the Sensor later. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Another Item to be aware of, I bring this up , because you said you were going to Remove the Carbs again !! Intake Manifolds--- !!! INSPECT THEM CAREFULLY FOR CRACKS, especially the Fwd Right side Manifold. I had this happen to my 89 on Two seperate occasions. ie. it developed crackes. Intake Manifolds --- 2nd Item here. As long as you have the Carbs OFF! I suggest that you Also, Remove Each Manifold, and Inspect the "" O- Ring "" Seal between the manifold, and the Head !! --- Why?? these O-Rings are Known to develop Intake Leaks !! This is a Common Problem. Many folks have installed new O-Rings, but Still had Intake Leaks. I suggest you Replace the O-Rings, AND, Apply a good quality Gasket Sealant, Between the Intake Manifolds, and the Head, Surface. Any Vaccume Leaks here, will severley effect Engine Performance, and cause, a Lean Fuel Mixture, possible valve damage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Carbs Off !!! Again, a double check Question Have you Adjusted, your " Idle Mixture Adjust needle Jets " ???? One on each Carb, The "" Correct Setting ' is From the full closed position. back them out CCW 2 and 1/4 turns. ( Remove and clean these needle jets, be very carfull not to damage them!!! the threads are easy to damage, ) ------ THIS INFORMATION IS NOT IN THE SERVICE MANUAL ------ I repeat this here, just to be sure you have this information. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One more check due to Carbs Off -- Double Check your Throttle Mechanical Linkage " Sync Screw " Settings. To set up the Basic, Throttle Plate position settings. With the #2 throttle plate " Just Closed " be sure that #1 follows, ( set left side sync screw ) and then that #3 and #4 are also " Just Closed " use the two sync Screws on the right side to set this. Why?? Now your " Carb Sync " settings, should be In the Ball Park, but after you get the engine running good, you will have to Reset the " Sync " with the Vaccume Gauge Tool.
  14. GeorgeS
    I found the new Ignition System Kits, from a few companies. At this point, I'm still looking for, whats needed to change then Basic Electrical system from 6 volt to 12 Volt. Haven't had any luck as yet finding, Schematics, and Specific Information for the 1950 model 650. But just getting started. --- Will be interesting giveing this guy a hand.
  15. GeorgeS
    1. Clean All the Electrical Plugs with CRC 2-26 --- ----- And the Switches ---- 2. Clean up All the Ground Connections !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3. Clean out the Gas Tank ----- 4. You know what to do next !!! Good Luck
  16. GeorgeS
    OK, Idea, you may have allready done this, however --- In that you still have all the fairings off. With the System, working in the Defective state, go over all the connectors carefully, one at a time, and move or wiggle them carefully. Try not to disturbe more then one connector at a time. IF-- the problem is a plug or connector, you might be able to pin point it this way. IF, the problem was the Antenna system, Then the AM would be much more effected then the FM.
  17. GeorgeS
    This has something to do with " Murphy's Law " All Mechanics are aware of this Law, its taught in basic Mechanic's School. However, " Back Yard " mechanic's are doomed to suffer from this condition. This is why Mechanics can get away with charging customers Inflated Hourly labor rates. !!! Something like that !! Ride On !!!!
  18. GeorgeS
    Why don't you Swap the Flasher Unit ( ie. relay ) with one of your other bikes. ( as I recall, you have several ) See if the problem follows ----- the swap proceedure Also, clean the Big Plug, under the Passenger section of Seat, on left side, the one with about 15 wires going thru it. The Grd. for all rear lights comes thru this plug. Also, find that Main Ground Stud, under the lft upper fairing, just left and a little fwd of the Battery, see page: 8-27 Item #30 Also, that pig tail grd lead from battery grd stud, goes about 8 inches, and there is a plug connector, Might be corroded, that runs to the grd stud under the left Fairing I believe. Sounds like a High Resistance Ground someplace. ( Clean up the Neg Bat. cable at the Engine main grd point )
  19. GeorgeS
    Once this is accomplished, this would be a good item to have posted in the Maint. Library.
  20. GeorgeS
    Yes, its the 650cc 1950, Thunderbird, however, the frame has been modified for an extented fork. He will have to have the frame put back to stock dimensions. He says he has the original Tank, to replace the chopper tank. Told me that the Motor does spin over, but the bike has not been on the road for about 15 years. So its going to be a project. I have been trying to find a Spec Sheet, on line, to find info about the Electrical system, and Carb Spec's, but no luck as yet. I have found a Mikunie replacement, listed as for TR6/7 single carb kit, avialable in 30mm, 32mm, and 34mm, for 1947 to 1981 models. With a Manifold. So looks like that should solve the Carb problem. So, will keep looking for the Electrical system Specifications.
  21. GeorgeS
    You will need a Leg Heat Shield for the Passengers Right Leg. Be sure to get one. Also, you will have to find your husband a Bigger Tool Box !!!! And don't sell the Yamaha yet !!!
  22. GeorgeS
    Friend of mine inherited his fathers 1950 Triumph 650cc . He will be shipping it to Wa. from Ca. and is going to start a slow methodical Restoration of the Bike. Was talking to him today, and looking at a few photo's of the bike, its in pretty good condition. And should make a great Restoration project. Anyway, My Question: The original " Amal " Carbs are known to be pretty much Junk. I was wondering if anybody out there has any suggestions for a replacement carburator for these Vintage Triumphs ? Seems I remember seeing that there might be a Mikuni that could be used as a replacement. Also, next question would be the Electrical charging systems ( ie. Lucas ) are pretty much junk from back in the 50's. Any suggestions for a Modern Replacement for the electrical system. Hey " Squeez " do you have any expertise in this area ?? Any and all suggestions are wellcome.
  23. GeorgeS
    Let us know what the rubber diaphrams look like ?? Another check to do, from my last web site Link, In addition to the Resistance readings shown on the page. Do the following Checks: 1. Remove the 8 pin plug from the TCI. 2. Remove the + cable from the Battery. 3. Turn Ignition Key to the " On " position, and Run-Stop to ON position. 4. Now, Read "Resistance" from the Loose End of + Cable (at battery ) to Each of Four pins of the Plug you removed from the TCI. PIN # 3, 2, 6, and 7. You should read between about 3.6 OHMS to a Maximum of about 4.2 Ohms on each of the 4 pins. Post these 4 Resistance readings. If they are " High " ( example, 10 to 20 ohms ) then this --- might ---- be contributing to your problems. Any High resistance in this Circuit, will affect the operation of your TCI. GeorgS N7uy@comcast.net
  24. GeorgeS
    Have you seen this page avialable on this Web Site ?? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15135 This One page, shows the Pin Out of the TWO plugs at the TCI, and the Correct Resistance Readings, at these TWO plugs. If you have not as yet, done these Checks, I would reccomend doing these tests. You might find something, Post the Resistance Readings that you find !! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Question: Have you used an Electrical Contact Cleaner product, on All of your Handlebar switch's and your Ignition Switch ?? I'm not sure whats avialable in England, but here, CRC ( brand name ) 2-26, spray contact cleaner is a very good product. Especially for cleaning Electrical contacts. Spray this stuff in your Ignition Switch, and Run-Stop Switch, also the TCI Plugs, and the Plugs going to each Ignition Coil. And use it on the Plug from the Pick up coils. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As your bike is OLD, I also suggest Useing Contact Cleaner on Every Electrical Plug, on your Entire motorcycle. All of them !! and the Relay's located up and behind the head light assembly. Take a couple of hours, and Just spray down Every Plug on the Entire Bike. You just, might , Inadvertently, "" Fix Something"" !!!!
  25. GeorgeS
    Agreed, that would keep it from running !!! Plug the vaccume leak. Also, The Rubber " Caps " that are used to cap off the Vaccume test ports might be " Rotted with Age " Check these Caps carefully for Cracks. make sure they are actually Sealing off the Ports. Have you checked the Vaccume line that runs from the Left, Forward Carb up to the " Barrometric Pressure" Sensor. Make sure there are No vaccume leaks in this line. Also, the " Barrometric Pressure Sensor " itself, ( the case of the assembly ) has been reported as causeing vaccume leaks. However that should not keep the engine from running. This problem would simply Lower Engine Performance to some degree.
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