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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. ANY Front end Vibration , Is Serious !!!!!!! You have something wrong, get it fixed, and stay alive !!!!!!!
  2. Do you know how Old the Fluid is in your clutch and brake system is ??? IF not: Deffinatly , flush out, and replace All the fluid. I use Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid. Mine is now 3 years old, and its on my next winter maintenance list of things to do.
  3. Get the rear end removed, pull out the drive shaft, see what the shaft looks like. If its OK, then probably the U-Joint is gone. If so, you will have to remove the swing arm assembly. Sombody said, somplace, that there is an automobile U-Joint that will work, cost lots less then Yamaha U-Joint. I would also consider replaceing the Swing Arm Bearings as long as you are removeing it. Good time to replace all the Fuel Line rubber hose's also, ----- And, the lower bolts, and bushings for the Rear Shock. ( add zerk fittings for future lube jobs, )
  4. If you do not replace the springs, useing 15 Wgt fork oil, might help untill you get them changed. Old bike, Old springs, they have had it. As a rule of thumb, the springs are good for about 50,000 miles.
  5. You might have an Intake Manifold leak ??? If I understand you correctly. If its running there has to be some vaccume there. Did you try changing the tubes from the meter, to different cylinders, its possible there is a problem with the Test Equipment.
  6. Total of 6 gaskets, best to replace them all when you remove the cross over canister.
  7. Good Heavens !! Is that place still there, and still in business ????? Highway 169 S, I used to buy junk there way back in 1973 !!!!
  8. 11 years old, No way its the original !! Could have been the Second battery in the bike. But I doubt that also. As a rule of thumb, with lead Acid type motorcycle batteries, if its 3 years old, I replace it as a matter of course. I would reccomend, that you monitor the Charging Voltage, ( after you get new bat. fully charged ) Read the DC voltage, with engine running at about 2000 rpm, you should see 13.2 up to about 14 volts. IF-- its below 13V, you might need to look for some other problems. Be sure to check the large White 3 wire plug that goes From the Alternator, To, the Regulator Unit. Open it, clean it, and check for any sign of overheating inside the plug. ( This is a Very Common Trouble spot on these bikes )
  9. Any Retired Airline folks in the group? This may be of interest-- or a few memories http://www.funstufftosee.com/airlineempires.html I turned many a wrench on several of these birds, sad that most of them have gone to the bone yard. I guess thats part of the reason I keep the old bike running. Its made many a trip to the hanger, at 5 AM to take care of the birds. Probably the most interesting Bird was the Lockheed Supper Connie, If any members remember that fine aircraft. Times have changed--- no hanger at the end of the road these days. Just ride on !
  10. Your under warrenty, take to dealer, see what they will do. Tire pressure first thing to check, you might have an Extreemly slow leak. REsetting the Steering head torque on these bikes is a fairly common problem. Get it fixed, this can become dangerous.
  11. Just got back from Lake Taho, today. Two day ride, return trip, 830 miles. Rode from Sacremento, North, to Redding Calif yesterday on I-5. Temperature in the Calif. Central Valley, was 112 Deg. F. About 180 miles at that temp. I intend to avoid doing that again !! Forcast on TV at 6pm on Cable TV in Weed, Calif. yesterday evening. They said, 114 deg for the next 5 days. Anybody planning on riding in that area this week, or weekend, Be Advised !!!! ie. Interstate 5, I managed, 45 min. rideing, and had to find some air conditioned place to cool off at, then go another 45 min. Phweeeeeee. It was HOT However the bike, ran like a Swiss Watch, seemed to like the Heat!!! Had a great time rideing all the roads around Lake Taho, with my Sister, and Hubby. Saw the Fireworks display on Lake Taho, pretty spectacular. I would estimate there was about 20,000 people there. Must have been at least 2000 Harley's !!!! Lots of great roads to ride, around Lake Taho,
  12. Question: How far open have you been holding the Throttle ? Do not open the throttle on these bikes, more than, about 1/8 and 1/4 turn at the most ! On my 89,--- if --- I hold open the throttle to 1/4 to 1/2 open, the Engine WILL NOT START !!!. Don't ask me why. Otherwise, it starts and runs perfect. Cold engine, 1/2 choke, and about 1/8 at most, open throttle. I am not saying that this IS, your problem, just something to be aware of. Also: Check the 15 Amp, Ignition fuse, and especially the Fuse Holder. They get Bent, and fuse does not make good contact. Check ALL your Fuse holders on the fuse block on top of the battery. Clean your Run-Stop Switch, with some " Electrical Contact Cleaner" ( give it a bath) Check your 40 Amp, Main Fuse. If you have not done so, then Drain, All Four Carb Bowls, Each has a Seperate Drain hose, ( #2 phillips head screw on each carb to open the drain) This should get you started.
  13. Any members happen to be rideing South tomorrow thru Wa. and Oregon on I-5 ?? I'm hitting the road out of Seattle about 0700, hope to make Weed Calif. by about 1800 hrs. Well, might stop North of the Calif border. ??
  14. Ok, based on what you said you found, that much play, loose pinch bolts, !!! and how many miles has this bike been on the road in this condition ???? Test ride this beast Very Carefully , and find out at what Speed, you get head shake, if any. Be sure you know what its doing, this can be dangerous. One more comment, I think you need a new set of Steering Head Bearings.
  15. Possibley the bearings on the rear wheel. One on the wheel hub, and the other inside the pumpkin. Also, pull out the drive shave, the forward spline,on the drive shaft , has probably never been removed and greesed. Most do this every time they replace the rear tire. To get the u-Joint out you have to completly remove the Swing Arm, Sombody, had a P/N for an automobile U-Joint, if you need a new one. lot cheaper then Yamaha OEM. Forgot who it was though. Just ask, sombody will pop up with that information. I would suggest getting new swing arm bearings, if you do this, as long as you have it out. Also, check the 3 lower cross bolts bottom of the Rear Shock Assembly, These bols have bushings, they are most likley shot in need of replacement also. Replace bolts. and bushings, ( 3 of them )
  16. Thanks for the info, don't sound good. How is it from Sacremento, south towards LA, ??
  17. Remove windshield, remove Instrument panel, dissassemble panel, remove Speedok, and " Fix it " or replace it. Greese the drive cable, and check the Thing on the Axel that drives the cable as long as you are working on it.
  18. I'm heading south from SEA on I-5 tomorrow morning. Will overnite in Weed Calif. Whats the smoke situation South from Weed, heading for Reno ?? Any route reccomendations, to avoid the smoke as much as possible ??
  19. Find a good used Busa, for about 4 to 7 K, costs less, and will kill you just as fast !!!
  20. Pull out the axel, and check the drive unit. That, might be where the problem is. To get the speedo unit out, remove windshield, then the entire Instrument panel unit, then dissassemble it, and you can now get the actual speedo out. So, check the drive unit first.
  21. Squeez pointed out to me, the Torque rateing on this new V-Max engine. I haven't found a posted HP rateing as yet. However the Torque is far above a Hyabusa. This is why Squeez, wants one. ( You know, the German Autoban, etc. etc. etc. ) The new Max, will weigh about 167 lb. more then a Hyabusa. BUT,----With the added Torque and HP, this thing will have Unbelievable Performance. I'm waiting to see what the "Zero -to- 60 MPH " times on a drag strip will be. I call my 99 Hyabusa, a " Death Machine " ( 2.6 sec 0-60 times) This new V-Max, will be the " Devils, Death Machine " ( zero to 60 time ????? ) Anybody heard what it is ?? This is a Drag Strip Machine !!! Oaklahoma Highway Patrol: Might be of Interest: http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2006/05/25/suzuki-hyabusa-police-interceptor/
  22. Be sure to completly Drain the tank. Remove the Petcock, check the Screen on it, for being plugged. This is common. Change filter, then remove the " Output " hose from the pump, With Key ON, the Pump should Squirt out fuel. Then reinstall the hose, open Carb Drains on each bowl, pump should pump fuel thru the 4 carb bowl drain hose's. If your still getting dirty fuel, reomve the Quantity Sender from top of tank, now you can see what inside the tank.
  23. Well I would say the first thing to do is loosen Remove the Rear Master Cyl. and at least Clean it out. Most likley needs at least a rebuild kit. While doing this, also disconnect the hoses from the Calipers, and the Proportioning Valve. Then blow out the lines with compressed air, make sure they are clean. BE sure you do not force crud into the proportioining valve ( Located up by the Steering head ) Follow lines to the valve. Some folks have found blockage in the Bottom section of the Rear master cylinder. So I would start there. Then the lines. Then go to rebuilding the Calipers.
  24. Big money guy, was saying that buyers should contact Banks or lenders that are sitting on Re Po's !! He said folks are makeing deals, something like take over payments, and you have it, cause the Loan is allready on paper. Well, maby worth checking into. See you local friendly banker ?? Who knows, you might make a good deal.
  25. Used to ride that road on my 47 Harley, may have passed you. ( going the other direction ) I drive that road about once a year in a rented car. Its still there. North Hollywood, is Not the same place though. !! Good thing we left.
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