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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. NO, same as the old days, just a little Elbo Greese !! A bead Breaker Tool helps. On the tuff ones, I just cut them across with a Hack Saw, to get them off. I have also used my Vise, to break the old bead. sometimes they are Easy, sometimes not so easy.
  2. It varies by State. From Calif thru Ore. the Temp permit from Calif was good. But going Thru Wa. I had to buy a Temp Permit to travel across state of Wa. until I got home, and bought the Tags. I did the same on another car from Colorado. Their permit was good thru Wyo, and Idaho, But again I had to get a Temp Wa. state and take it with me. So, morel of story is, check with Each state you will be driveing Thru. Or the DMV where you buy the vehical, may be able to give you all the Info.
  3. Maby just a sticky switch.
  4. I think its 93 HP.
  5. IF--- there is one, and If it has the same engine as the New V-Max ( likley de tuned ) then it most likely fuel injected, same as the New V-Max. The New Max, has , 127 Ft. Lb. of Torque. Research the new Max, there is quite a bit of Information concerning it on the Web allready. Google: " 2009 V-Max " Several hits there.
  6. Well, remember on the 1st Gen, You Cannot Increase the Width of the rear tire Cause there Ain't no more space tween the tire and the Drive Shaft. I spent couple hours 2 weeks ago, searching Car Tire Web sites, and I could not find a Car Tire, in 16 Inch, that was Narrow enough to fit. Closest I could come was some 16 inch tires for the Old Volkswagen Bus Vehical However I would assume they were pretty Old Technology tires. But not sure. If I could find one that would fit, I would give it a try. I have a spare wheel for my 89. But so far, no luck finding one to fit . However I was wondering, if a 2nd Gen Swing Arm would work on a 1st Gen. This might give the required clearance, if sombody wanted to try it. Anyway, I ordered a new Dunlop Elite III, will stick with those for now. $106 deliverd from RonAyers.com GreenVille N.C. Get them before they run out if you want one for your 1st Gen !!!!
  7. Never heard of such a thing.
  8. Open up the case, the problem Might just Stare you in the face. Other option, is Put in a Real High Ball Bid in the last 10 seconds of an auction. Lets face it, we all need some Music, after fixing the Swamp Cooler ( been there, done that ) !!!
  9. Well, If you have a Service Manual, See: Page 7-1 a good place to start: ( if not, you can download the manual in the 1st Gen Maint Library, on this web site ) --- Start at the Signal Fuse, Note all the items powered from this fuse: --- If---- the items you quoted are indeed the ONLY items not functioning. then most likley there is a Ground Return problem , INSIDE of the Instrument Cluster. I have had One of these Units opened up for maintenance. Dureing that escapade, I took note of the fact, that The " Ground Return s" for All of the Many electical items Inside of this Inst. Cluster are spliced together, then go Out thru One pin, on the Main plug to Get a Ground. How are all these black wires connected to the One Pin, above mentioned ?? They are Spliced together, and there are about 7 or 8 splices, from various components, that end up at the ONE pin comeing out of the cluster, on the main Plug. So, the bad News is, If you don't find something else wrong that I am missing--- You most likley will have to remove the Windshield, to remove the Instrument Cluster, the Open it up, and find the trouble. ( probably one bad Splice ) --- Black Wires inside the cluster, are all ground returns ---- Sorry, Best I can do from Seattle !!! Good Luck
  10. Maby just bad Speaker. ?? Try Cleaning All the Plugs, Involved in the entire System, with CRC 2-26 contact cleaner, and apply " dialectric Greese " to all the pins. Also, carefully check the Pins that mate, when you Install the Panel on the left side. Its very easy to bend these pins, its happened to me a couple times.
  11. I have read thru several threads concerning this. General Consensis, is its not worth the trouble. Lots of work and headaches, for a small improvement.
  12. On the 1st Gen's, Haz lights work with out any Key in the Ignition: I just checked, on my 89. 1st gen, has a Seperate " Haz " fuse, Schematic shows it in the Second Fuse holder located Forward and to right of battery. However on the 2nd gens I don't know. Will have to pull up Schematic in the Maint Library, Service Manual for 2nd Gen.
  13. The items you quote are powered from the " Signal " fuse: Are your turn signals, and Hazard lights, and tach and volt meter working? They are also powered off this fuse: If its only the lights in The Dash assembly that are not working, I would suggest starting by removeing the headlight, reaching up behind the Instrumtment cluster, and removeing the Cable Plugs from that unit, and Cleaning the Pins with an Electrical contact cleaner. ( Radio shack has some, or CRC 2-26, electrical dept. at Lowes or Home Depot )
  14. Just got a new Dunlop Elite III ( bias Ply ) MU90HB 16 , delivered to Seattle, UPS, for total of $106.95 From: Ronayers.com Greenville NC Date Stamp on tire is Feb 2008, its Fresh
  15. Each carb has a small hose from the bowl, two to the right side, and two to the left side. Each carb has a #2 phillips head screw on side of bowl, open about 2 turns and fuel will drain out of the hose. Screws are hard to see, come in horizontaly with #2 phillips head screw driver. If you turn the Key to ON position, the fuel pump will pump fuel thru the bowl and out the hose, with the Screw in the open position. Useing this proceedure you can Flush the carb bowls. Good to do this a couple time s a year.
  16. First Check the Large White Plug for Damage, is it Burned up ??? IF so, either Replace it, or Cut it out, and Splice the wires together. Use Western Union Splice, and Solder the new Splice with Rosin Core Solder, and apply 2 layers of Heat Shrink Tubeing for new insulation. ( check Wikipedia for " Western Union Splice " ) Now, Check the DC voltage at battery, at about 2000 RPM, Read 13.2 to 14 Volts , DC. IF not do the following. ------ Open the Large White Plug. Do Resistance Reading, Pin to Pin, Looking INTO the STATOR. You should Read, Almost Dead short, or 1 OHM, Pin 1 to 2, Pin 1 to 3 and Pin 2 to 3. All should read the Same. Book says, .05 ohms, or almost dead short. ( IF one is Infinate, ie. no connection, stator is bad ) Next: With Large White plug from Stator, " Connected " " Engine Running at about 2000 rpm " Black meter , lead to ground, Red meter lead, stick into each wire of the plug. ---- You should read, " Some " AC Voltage, 6 to about 15 Volts, AC ( not dc ) All three wires should read " About " the same voltage, within + or - One volt. Exact voltage is not that important, for this test. IF ---- One of the three wires reads, Substantially, lower then the other two then the Stator is going out. Next: IF, your Stator Voltage readings are all 6 to 14 AC, and withing 1 volt of each other, then You might have a Bad Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. If Stator OK, and DC at battery below 12.5 DC, at 2000 rpm, then maby bad Regulator, IF you are sure your battery is OK>
  17. Just testing to see if anybody out there was up on this aircraft !! I consider myself very lucky to have been at the right place at the right time to Actually see the Aircraft, and get some photo's. From 1962 to middle of 1963, I was Navy Aircrewman, on the Navy P-5M 2 - Engine, SeaPlanes. About 2/3 the size of the Mars. None of these aircraft Survive, except one at the Pensacola Fla. Navy Aircraft Museum. ( Sad to say ) Ahhh the sound of a Pratt Witney, R-3350 Engine, !!!!! So, this aircraft, is about 63 years old, Still in Service doing a Usefull function. Amazing,
  18. Did you get the Nail before, or After you put the stuff in?? If it got you home, after you picked up the Nail, then it did its Job
  19. On I-5 headed for Lake Taho, Two weeks ago, crossing bridge over Lake Shasta, saw this Aircraft, and was lucky enough to get some photo's. Anybody recognise this Old Aircraft ?? ( WWII Vintage, only 3 of them left )
  20. Rebuild kit for the Master on handlebar. The Slave cylinder, best to buy a New One. Cylinder is probably corroded to much to use a rebuild kit. Slave rebuild kits about $15, and the new one is only about $30, not worth the trouble of rebuilding. Also, check your rubber hose's, they are OLD, you might want to replace them also. Discuss the Master rebuild with " Condor " and others will help. Its a tricky job, and easy to get some parts in backwards, on the master that is. If you open the clutch cover, best to Also replace the Springs, they don't cost much.
  21. Vent Hose, next to filler cap. Remove hose, check the very small vent hole, make sure its not plugged. -- Clean the " Run-Stop" switch. Maby bad contact there, use electrical contact cleaner -- Fuse block is old, the holders get brittle, and crack off. Replace with an ATM type fuse holder block. -- Open your 40 amp main fuse holder, make sure the two small screws that hold the fuse element are tight. Few more possibilities ??? maby worth checking
  22. Afte Wheel removed the drive shaft is easy, just remove the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin on the shaft houseing. Then simply pull out the shaft. Next, remove the Suspension each side from swing arm, then start on the big nuts that hold the swing arm in place. Hopefully the problem will be at the U-Joint, couple months ago sombody had the Nut come loose that holds the U-Joint onto the output shaft from the Tranny. If you Pull back the Rubber Boot, you might be able to SEE the U-Joint good enough to determine if thats the problem.
  23. Start watching carefully in mirror every morning for some grey hair
  24. You know what they say, Big Boys, and their Toys !!
  25. Being a Minn. Native, Haveing driven to Colo. a few times from there, my 2 cents worth would be--- The Black Hills-- The Devils Tower--- Can't think of anything else, until the Rockie Mountains are in sight Maby a detour thru Yellowstone Park
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