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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Couple photo's of the 5 wire Plug to pick up coils.
  2. GeorgeS
    Buy, 5 and 6 PIN Din Plugs at Radio Shack, some #18 wire, a soldering iron, some rosin core solder, some Heat shrink tubeing, some black tape, and Build the Conversion Cable as needed. ( I Know, that sounds Scarry )
  3. GeorgeS
    I'm not sure I'm following you correct, I think you said fuel was flowing thru the filter, when you took the hose from the filter to the pump, OFF at the pump. ?? That would eliminate the filter. You then said the pump worked when hooked to a different 12V Source. So pump should be ok. I would at this point Re Install the Pump and lines, and try again. You might have gotten some Crude from the Tank when you went to Reserve. Try, opening EACH of the 4 Carb Bowl Drains ( a #2 phillips head Screw on each carb bowl ) and turn Key to ON, the pump should run fuel thru Each Carb bowl, out the drain hose from each carb. You should hear the Pump run, for about 5 seconds. then open the bowl drains one at a time, pump should run, and you should get fuel from each bowl. Pump should keep running when the drains are open, 1 or all 4 of them. Did you check your Run Stop Switch ?? May have gotten moved to " Stop " dureing the Trailer ride !!
  4. GeorgeS
    Is it possible that the Clutch needs bleeding ?? Might be worth haveing the dealer check that out.
  5. GeorgeS
    Well, its sort of like haveing to clean out the closets once in a while !!
  6. GeorgeS
    Yes, use the Stock Number. Most everybody agrees that the stock NGK is the right number to use.
  7. GeorgeS
    Don't ever do that again !!!
  8. GeorgeS
    Right, If #2 throttle plate, is not fully closed before you start, go back, put some slack in the cable, then set the Main Idle Adjust Knob ( Under #2 Carb ) To " Just " makeing contact with the #2 throttle plate. --- Now if it will run, start the Sync of #1, #4 and #3.
  9. GeorgeS
    First Remove All the Fuses from the Main Fuse Block ( 6 each ) Now find the Second Fuse holder located, forward, and to the right of the battery. Remove all those fuses also. Now look at diagram, the 40 amp main is still connected to---- 1. the Ignition Switch. ( Follow the cable " From " the Ignition Switch, dissconnect it, --- Does the fuse still blow ??? ) 2. Item # 72 the capacitor, ( this capacitor, MIGHT be Shorted to ground ) This is a possibility, but low on my list. 3. Follow the " R " Wire from the fuse which goes to the Instrument Panel. ----- So Pull the Large Plug out of the Instrument Panel, DOES THE FUSE STILL BLOW ???? 4. See Point " A " in a square box on page 7-11- ( Your removed the fuses from the Secondary fuse block, so Point " A " is now not connected to anything. 5. Now follow the " R " wire from the 40 amp main fuse, see where it connects to the " R " wire " OUTPUT " from the REGULATOR/RECTIFYER unit. ---- Why ??? --- There Might be a DEAD Short Inside the Regulator/Regularo unit. SO, Find the OUTPUT PLUG --- FROM --- the Regulator, ( it has 2 Red wires, and 2 black wires ) going thru it. ------- Disconnect the Plug, DOES THE FUSE STILL BLOW ??? IF NOT, you have found the problem. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, After removeing the fuses, ( two fuse blocks ) then go to ITEM #5. My gut feeling, is this is the most likley cause of you problem. This whole thing smells to me like another case of Run Amok Electrons !!!!
  10. GeorgeS
    ------ I had the same problem with my Super Brace. The Bolt holes lined up perfectly, however I had to Remove some Metal from both sides so they would clear the Tubes. ( about 1/64 inch on each side as I recall ) This was with the tubes installed on the bike, and the Front Wheel Installed. I can see if you tried to Install the Brace without the Axel Installed, you could probably Force it in without removeing the Excess Metal. Obviously the Manufacturer has gotten his measurements Incorrect for this Particular Installation.
  11. GeorgeS
    Just turned 12K on Avon Rear. Measured the Tread Depth that is left this afternoon. Between 1/16 and 1/8 Inch left dead Center. I will call it 3/32nds So another 2000 miles to go, should make 14K. Tire seems to be wearing even, still looks good. I measured it at 1/8 inch tread, left before I went on the Reno Trip, on 2 July. 2200 miles took off 1/32nd worth of rubber. Rideing Single, about 60 lb. luggage. If anybody is interested. Will be replaceing with an Elite III, Its sitting on the garage floor.
  12. GeorgeS
    Keep the Oil Level, to 1/2 way between the two bars on the Sight Gauge. Don't fill over this point. The amount called out in the Service Manual is to much. Try that and see what happens, before you assume there is some other problem.
  13. GeorgeS
    If you have a 1st Gen, and the Brakes have Never been rebuilt !! Do it !! Age is the culprit here.
  14. GeorgeS
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=496
  15. GeorgeS
    Nothing like Success !!!!!
  16. GeorgeS
    What wgt Oil are you useing? Maby try heavier oil. Well, just a thought ---
  17. GeorgeS
    Thats a new one. Only thing I could think of is a chunk of the Impeller blade has broken off.
  18. GeorgeS
    Did you make sure that the " Throttle Pull Cable " had, At least 1/8 inch of Slack before you started Adjusting the " Sync " Screws. ? --- This is Necessary, so insure that the Left Forward Carb, Throttle Plate is at the Full Closed Position. Did you then Lower the Idle speed to about 800 RPM, Before begining the Sync Proceedure? Useing the " ONE" Main Idle Adjust Screw, ( Plastic Knurled Knob ) on the Left Forward Carb ??? Did you take Note that as you Brought Each Carb, Into Sync, with the Left Fwd Carb, that you achieved Some amount of Idle Speed Increase ? When you are finished, you Must have " Some " amount of Slack in the Pull Cable betwee 1/16 and 1/8 inch of cable movement, before the Plate starts to move. --- Check your Pull Cable, IF there Is --- NO Amount of Slack--- Then you have to start all over. Study, the Diagram on Page 2-12, Remember, Throttle plate #2 is the Master. It must go to Full Closed, when you Close the Throttle .
  19. GeorgeS
    Hmmmm ??, I might show up. Will see whats happening,
  20. GeorgeS
    Well, try good old Dish Washer soap, Can't hurt anything !!
  21. GeorgeS
    Get the Fuel System Cleaned out First, !!!! Buy the SEA-FOAM, or Valvoline Synthectic Fuel injector cleaner, OR Chevron, has about the same stuff, at any auto parts store. Also, put in 1/2 can of HEET, to get moisture out of tank.
  22. GeorgeS
    I just use J B Weld, and thin pieces of Aluminum, or steel, to put patches on Inside of the Trunk, or plastic parts. Works great.
  23. GeorgeS
    Based on performance of 2 Automobiles I have owened, and one motorcycle that are equiped withe EFI, Its all Thumbs UP !!! Much better performance, Much fewer Maintenance problems, Its all Win Win Win. Now haveing said that, I'm not going to t sell the 89, just because it has Carbs !! But any Bike I buy in the future, ( IF New ) will be fuel injected !!
  24. GeorgeS
    On the 1st Gens, the power for the TCI, and 4 Ignition Coils comes from the " Ingition Fuse " 15 Amp. If installing any New Equipment, I strongly suggest you Install a NEW Fuse ( could be In line fuse ) and hook the Voltage Source comeing from the Ignition Switch, On-Off Contacts, ie: the INPUT side of the Fuse block assembly, ( left side of existing fuse's ) Its a " Br " wire ( brown ) on 1st gens, Not sure on 2nd gens. The 15 Amp Ingnition Fuse allready has to much hooked to it. You should have a Seperate NEW fuse for your NEW Equipment.
  25. GeorgeS
    My 89, Stator went out at about 24K ----
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