
GeorgeS
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Everything posted by GeorgeS
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Also, Remove hose from output of Petcock, and Drain the Tank, Be sure to drain it down to completly empty to get out any water, and sludge. Also drain all 4 Carb bowls, each has a sepreate drain hose, Get a can of SEA-FOAM, fuel system cleaner, run 1/2 can to about 1/2 tank gas, if you can get it running. Drain the carbs again. Also, of course replace the fuel filter. If you can get it going, run two complete tanks of fuel with 1 can of SEA Foam each tank, then re-evaluate the situation:
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A fellow I used to work with, had one, he put about 30K on it, with one tire change and Oil Changes. Absolutly no problems. I recently found a fellows web site, he said he ran one to about 75K with nothing but normal maintenance. He now runs an ST 1300, and its up to 90K , same comments as to quality. I was at a local dealer here couple weeks ago, to get some parts. They had a Used 2002, ST-1100 on the lot, with 4500 miles on it, asking $5800.00 ( Red one ) Like new condx, !! Basicly, any good used bike with a Liter Class Engine, is going to bring between 3 to 4 K. So I would say If a good mechanic checks it over, and no apparent problems, Its a good deal in my opinion ( unless some obvious defects ) Most likely will need a new battery though.
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Side cover oil leadk
GeorgeS replied to Props's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Three times--- New gasket each time. Last time I finally Went over the surfaces with a Small Block of hard wood covered with 600 grit Emory cloth. This time I used Permatex, Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker ( PX #82180 ) ( Black Tube ) Instructions state to give it 24 hours to set up. And do not tighten bolts enough to cause the stuff to squeezs out. The previous 3 Types of sealants, were setting up, before I could get the cover installed with ALL the Bolts properly torqued. I am estimateing it takes me about 45 min. to get both surfaces, covered with sealant, and the cover fully installed. So the sealant was getting hard before the job was finished. The above Stuff, ( #82180 permatex ) gave me over an hour to complete the job. This was the 4th time I had re installed the cover, and finally got the leaking stopped !! Anyway thats my 2 cents. Use new gasket, and the above permtex, and give it at least 24 hours before you re-install the Engine Oil. Also be sure ALL oil is drained, and NO Oil on the surfaces, -
Thanks for the Info. I have found that The VL1500's do have some problems with " compression release " system for starting. Also, there seems to be some Starter Circuit problems, with them. But for the price they seem to be a good value, for a used bike.
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Why not just get a new set of stock Seals ?? Thats what I did. You need 6 total at the canistor.
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OK, consensious then is, just leave whatever wgts are installed in place !! Untill sombody can come up with a good reason not to. !!!
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I have always wondered how much ( or what percentage ) of the Wgt Installed, is actually compensateing for " Imbalance " in the Wheel itself. ( before tire is installed ) I know that might be nitpicking. Anyway, that was my thinking for just leaveing the Wgts, that were initially installed. But after all is said, I'm a believer in , Ride - On. Its allready saved me one, On the Road flat. Also, there was that posting last month, sombody said they removed the wheel and Ran some Screws into the Old tire, just as a test before replaceing the tire. It held air pressure, I have had a speed blow out, believe me, anything that will decrese the odds of a blow out, is worth the money!!!
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I was asking myself the same question Jack. All the Instructions say, is that after you put the stuff in, don't change the weights. Anyway, I just put it in, and everything seems OK. So far, at least .
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I measured it on my Busa. It hit about 375 at ( temp gauge ) red line, with engine idleing. 2 inches from the input to the muffler.
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I need a radio that'll fit in my pocket
GeorgeS replied to eazyduzzit's topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
I recently bought a Sangean, DT-200VX pocket AM FM. Its the best pocket radio I have ever owned. However, not cheap, as pocket radio's go. But, you get what you pay for , as they say. -
1st Gen handling problems.....
GeorgeS replied to Smitty161's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Also, consider that there Might be a problem with the Front Tire itself. Various front end problems have been cured by simply replaceing the tire. I'm just fishing , with that one. Also, See, the Service Manual, for proceedure for Lubricating and Re-Torqueing the Swing Arm main bearings, the proceedure there is Very Helpfull !!! -
1st Gen handling problems.....
GeorgeS replied to Smitty161's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Yes, this might be involved. Highly advisable to Drain ALL the Fluid from Both Forks, and Replace, both sides with New, Measured Amount of Fluid. See the Specifications section of Service Manual, for the exact amount of fluid. 10 Wt Fluid is the factory weight Fork Oil. I Switched to 15 Wt. and Progressive Springs. One other point. When you Remove the Axel, clean and lubricate it, and on installation, rotate it by hand, checking for any Undue Resistance. Carefully examine both fork tubes for any sign that they may have been damaged. -
Question: 2003 and back to about 1998 I believe, VL 1500 Intruder, Suzuki V-Twins. ?? I been researching them as a possible bike for my son. As in, looking for a good deal on a used bike. Anyway, does anybody have any information as to any types of known problems with these bikes. I guess the 2004 and up, are known as the C90 -- From what I can find the 03 and older ones, at least on E-Bay, have been selling for around $4500.00 I found 5 that have sold on E-Bay, this month for that Average Price. So, any comments , good or bad would be apprciated, just looking for information on them at this point. Thanks-
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1st Gen handling problems.....
GeorgeS replied to Smitty161's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
First thing to check would be left side brake caliper, be sure the pads are releasing. ie, not dragging. You might try Loosening the Two upper pinch bolts on the fork tubes, and checking for any Stress on the tubes. Loosen pinch bolts, and Axel, then retorque in stages. Tap on things with rubber mallet to relive any Stress. Possibly a Wheel Bearing on the left side. Remove wheel and check the front wheel bearings, and Lubricate them. Check the Rear Swing Arm Bearings. Maby one side is not Torqued correctly. They might need to be lubricated. You will need a large Torque wrench, and two different size, pretty large Metric Sockets for this job. There is a way to check if the Front Wheel is tracking with the Rear Wheel correctly, maby sombody can fill you in on that. I have never done it. ---- One comment, my 89, has always wanted to Pull to Left, some, If I let go off both handlebars. But I have not been able to fix it. Not much, but its there. -
Using the Volt Meter
GeorgeS replied to 91nwl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Basicly, it the Level of Voltage the Regultor is applying to the Battery, to Charge it. It should be 13.6 to 14.1. Use an Digital Volt/Ohm meter, to measure the Charging Voltage level. The Panel meter is really not accurate enough to measure the voltage. -
Water Pump Knock??
GeorgeS replied to Tartan Terror's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
How does the Water Pump Bearing Feel ?? Rotate it by hand, if its bad you should be able to feel something when you rotate the Inner Race. One more idea, Drain the Oil, be sure nothing comes out, except oil !!!! ( ie. no loose pieces of something else besides oil ) -
yamaha venture 1300 1993year
GeorgeS replied to Raiki's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Put some miles on it. Then let us know how its running. Post any particular problems that come up. Help, is here !! First question, would be , has the bike been in service?? or, has it been stored for a long period of time. IF, its been sitting for some long period, I would reccomend you at least Drain the Fuel tank, ( remove hose at petcock ) and drain into a container. Also, drain the Carb bowls. Each one has a drain hose. Its advisable to run a can of " SEA-FOAM " fuel system conditioner, just to make sure the fuel system and Carbs are clean. -
If no CB, just get a J+M Handle bar mount CB, comes with intercom, FM ,and MP-3 input. Cheaper then paying for Factory Electronics, lot cheaper, probably just as good .
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Water Pump Knock??
GeorgeS replied to Tartan Terror's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'm thinking the only thing in the water pump that could make "noise " would be the Bearing. ( unless there is a chunk broken off the Impeller. Not likley though ) If the " SEAL " were leaking, there would be leakage of Anti Freez, from the Weep Hole on the bottom side of the Pump. ( yes there is a weep hole ) If the Seal is leaking, you -- might -- be getting anti freez into the oil. I did have leakage, I replaced the Seal, and Bearing, and there are also several O-Rings involved with the pump rebuild. If you do the pump rebuild, be sure to order ALL of the O-Rings shown on the IPC. Also, the Seals for the 1 inch Diameter plastic pipe going from the Pump to the Thermostate houseing. Also, if you decide to replace the Thermostate, be sure to get new gasket and O-Ring for that also. However, I would get a stethascope, and try to Isolate the Noise, before you start ripping and tearing. Also, do a Compression Check. This might pin point a Valve lifter problem. Maby you just need a Valve Adjustment. -
You should see, 13.6 to 14.1 volts DC at the + Bat terminal at about 2000 RPM. Also, at the Large White plug between the Stator, and the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, you can do the 3 Phase AC Voltage Check. Find the Plug, open it and inspect the 3 Connectors, clean them. ( If pins are burned up or damaged, best to just cut out the plug and splice the wires together ) With plug connected, engine running at 2000 rpm. Stick meter leads into ends of each of the 3 wires, and read AC voltage to ground. --- You should see, about, 6 to 14 volts AC ( AC, not DC ) to ground. ----- IF, one of the 3 readings is Substantially Lowere, then the other two, then , Yes, you need a new Stator. ( most likley this is what you will see ) Post the Three AC readings, after you take them !!
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Most Auto Parts stores carry a 12 V relay. If not, they can order the Bosh Relay, they are the best quality. Use the Horn button ground to actuate the relay, and use #16 wire to carry current thru the relay to the new horn installation.
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If you change it yourself, could you do a Cross Cut of the old Tire. I would like to see how Thick the caseing thickness is after you get done burning OFF, ALL of the Tread !! Post a photo is you can Thanks !!
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Who's go the price tag ??
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Water Pump Knock??
GeorgeS replied to Tartan Terror's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
First time I heard of a noise from Water Pump, either 1st gen or 2nd gen. Try a stethascope to pinpoint the noise to the water pump, IF, thats where its comeing from. Might be the Impeller in the water pump. ?? If its the water pump, all the parts, to rebuild it run about $100 bucks. Fairly easy job to do. Just pull the parts off, one at a time, and then reassemble with new parts, and all new seals. New Bearing, new seal, and maby new impeller. Not hard to do.