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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    I have about 15K on a set in the 89 now. No problems, I will pull one out and see what it looks like. I also am running them in both cars, and so far , so good. !!
  2. GeorgeS
    Dealing with a flat tire would probable be the #1 item on such a list. Tire plugging kit of some kind, and CO-2 cartridges, or a battery operated Air Pump of some kind. Also, product called " ride - on " puncture sealer. ( it works ) I always carry a volt/ohm meter for electrical troublshooting. Spare fuses. Spark plugs. Spare headlight bulb. I consider these item's as basic.
  3. GeorgeS
    As I understand, the fronts are not avialable, you might find an E-II for the front. Dun keeps saying they will be avialable, but so far, No. Use the E-3 on Rear, and Avon or Michilian on the front.
  4. GeorgeS
    I don't see any need for that. The stock wires are 7MM Solid Copper Core. There would be nothing to gain by changing the size. Just Get Bulk Stock Belden wire, or whatever your auto parts local store carries. Also, stick with the stock NGK Plugs, Check the resistance, and condition of the Resistor Caps. See service manual for specs.
  5. GeorgeS
    Drain out whatever is in the rear pumpkin, check for metal shaveings. Replace the SAE - 90, then see what you have. Also, these bike, do make a whinning sound from the Transmission on decelleration. Mine is very noticable at slow speeds driving around in the 30 to 40 MPH speed range. Its, been that way since it was New. No, worse, no better. I just ignor it. Also, you might want to pull the rear wheel, and check the Two Wheel Bearings. Also, if you pull the rear wheel, take the Pumpkin off, and pull out the Drive shaft. and hand greese the Spline, on the forward end of the shaft. ( there is no other way to lube the spline !!! )
  6. GeorgeS
    Your life depends on that rear tire--- Not a good place to try to save a few bucks-- Have you ever had a blow out at 70MPH?? I have!! It was not a fun day--- I reccomend the Dunlop E-3.
  7. GeorgeS
    See page 7-61 Service Manual, Block Diagram. Sender picks up ground when level is normal, and ground goes to the CME, ( computerized monitor unit ) . Its a B/R wire going into the Instrument Panel. Wire goes thru the Larger plug on the Inst. panel. See page 7-44, Signal system, Oil level sender unit. Follow wires from the sender unit, and clean the pull apart plug. ( this Might be the problem ) Most likley, the problem, is inside the CME, circuit board. Its common to have cold solder joints on this board, causeing many of the Warning lights to erronously flash. Mine is doing same thing for the Head Light Warning. Fix is to remove windshield, and then the Inst Panel, then open it up, find the CME board and resolder connections. Follow the Black/Red wire to the connect point on the circuit board inside the Inst Panel. Its a nice winter project job. !!!
  8. GeorgeS
    No Problem !! Just drive like a grand pa !!!
  9. GeorgeS
    Well I know the Swing arm of the 2nd gen has more clearance for the tire, then the 1st gen. However, IF thats the only difference, in the two swing arms, then it might possibly work. Oh well,
  10. GeorgeS
    OK, things to check --- SEE Page 2-12 of service manual. ( it on line here if you don't have a manual. See 1st gen maint library ) ------- Take a close look at the Throttle " PULL" cable at the lft Fwd Carb. (item #1 on page 2-12 ) Move the throttle, make sure you have " some " amount of " slack " in the cable, before the mechanical linkage begins to Move. ( 1/16 to 1/8 inch of cable movement at the carb) If, NO Slack, then the last preson who synced the carbs, did not do it right. -------Also, check the exposed portion of cable for any sign of fraying !! IF you find, any, then order a new set of cables. !!!!! ------ Now find your Main idle adjust knob, under the same carb ( plastic kurled knob ) its in a Vertical position ( Do not confuse this with the large, screwdriver head, adjustment between the two carbs left side , item A, on page 2-12 , thats a Sync Screw ) ----- Main Idle adjust, is mounted in vertical position under the #2 carb. Adjust it CCW untill it is NOT makeing contact with linkage assemble, then bring it back till its just makeing contact. ----- Run Engine, see what you have, re - evaluate situation. Now try to get 900 RPM set with the main adjuster screw . ----- At this point, Remove the Air cleaner cover, and observe the 4 Carb, pistions, they should be dancing equally, as engine idles. ( if not, maby you need a new set of diaphrams ) ( Don't try to drive the bike with the aircleaner cover removed, It won't work !!! ) ----- Next step would be a Carb Syncronization proceedure. See: page 2-12, 2-13 and 2-14 of Service Manual, READ IT ALL carefully, if you have never been thru this job. Study the diagram on page 2-12,
  11. GeorgeS
    Is it possible to install a 2nd Gen Swing Arm, on a 1st Gen. ?? Why??? If a guy wanted to try to use a CT on a 1st gen --- Hmmmmm Its a slow day, and got to thinking
  12. GeorgeS
    Have you removed, and cleaned those idle mixture adjustment, needle valves ?
  13. GeorgeS
    First-- Simply Drain the Fuel Tank, At the Petcock Valve. Remove hose, easy. Stick another piece of 1/4 id rubber hose on the Valve and Drain the last Gallon of fuel from the tank. -Nobody Ever Burns that last gallon. Probably lots, of crud and maby water in there. Second-- EASY to do. Each Carb, has a small drain hose. There is a #2 phillips head screw on each carb body to open the Drain. Drain All Four Carbs. Add about 3 gallons of gas, and buy one can of " SEA - FOAM " fuel system conditioner, and a Can of HEET. Use this mix with the 3 gallons. ( or most any good fuel injector cleaner, will work also ) Sea-Foam is best stuff for the job. Run the bike every day, and Drain the Carbs every couple days for a week. On next fill up, put in another can of Sea Foam. Run that tank full, then Re-Evaluate the situation. At that point, you might consider a new set of Spark Plugs. ( use NGK, Stock # plug)
  14. GeorgeS
    I never thought of that. But they are pretty thin. I guess its worth a try.
  15. GeorgeS
    use a syringe, to pump the fluid in " very slowly " from the caliper up to the Resovoiur. This also works for the Clutch system. Or, get the MyTVac Tool. After the normal pumping proceedure, the tool draw out the air. Basicly just keep adding fluid and sucking it thru with the MyTVac Tool. Worked great for me.
  16. GeorgeS
    Or, just replace the Stock Springs, with a new set. Easy job, and order a new gasket.
  17. GeorgeS
    Use a can at least Once a year. Maby more ?
  18. GeorgeS

    Quick Stop

    GeorgeS replied to juggler's topic in Videos

    I remember that road !!! I used to drive it almost everyday ---
  19. GeorgeS
    Yes!!, Install progressive suspension Springs !!!! Not doing this, is Not an Option !!! Cost about same as New OEM springs, and far better !!!! Overflow: Your float Valves are Stuck open. Dirt in bowl, or gummed up. Fix: --- Get a can of "Sea-Foam," fuel system cleaner, 1 can to 1/2 tank fuel, Run engine, Drain each carb bowl about 3 times in a week. Give the stuff some time to work its magic. Drain each Bowl, 2 or 3 times during the week. #2 phillips head screw on each carb body, to open the drain. Each has a drain hose from the bowl. 90 precent chance this will fix the float valves. Also, after this is done,use some HEET in your tank. Then drain your Fuel Tank, from the Petcock, Reserve position. Drain the tank Dry, You may also need a new fuel filter. Then run another can of seafoam, for a couple of full tanks. Then re -evaluate the situation.
  20. GeorgeS
    Been useing it for 5 years in both bikes, ( M -1, 15W-50W ) No problems either bike. Been useing their 10W-30W in both cars for 10 years, no problems.
  21. GeorgeS
    I have the complete Barnett set up in my 89. Absolutly NO Slippage. I'm totally satisfied with the Barnett Clutch. Another way to test for slippage, is From about 70 MPH, double downshift to 3rd gear, and floorboard it. Thats how I found mine was badly slipping. Bike had about 30K on it at the time.
  22. GeorgeS
    Hit 2nd gear, and floorboard it. If its slipping , it will show up by doing this. As to the Springs, --- if---- you need them, just order the springs, and a new Gasket, about an hours work to change them, Easy Job !!
  23. GeorgeS
    Its possible you are close to needing a new set of Clutch Springs. Most 1st Gens need them placed sometime between 50 to 100K. Don't cost much, easy to change.
  24. GeorgeS
    If you have power to the TCI, then you can assume Ing fuse is OK. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Give the Run-Stop Switch, and the Ignition switch, a Bath , with electrical contact cleaner. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What you are referring to as a " boost sensor " is actually " pressure sensor " which is the correct term. ( just for clarity ) All it does is sences changes in Intake vaccume, and adjusts Ignition timeing accordingly. It gets, 12V from Ignitioin Fuse Circuit. Thru, the Run Stop Switch!! The bike should run just fine, without the " Pressure Sensor " HOWEVER, Disconnect the Plug from the Sensor ( about 6 inches from sensor ) on the off chance that there is an " INTERNAL ELECTRICAL DEFECT INSIDE THE SENSOR " Which might be causeing a voltage drop down line from the 15 AMP Ing Fuse. You seem to have reason to suspect it, so disconnect it completly. See what happens. NOTE: At this point I am suspecting your RUN- STOP Switch might be the culprit. Also: The 8 pin plug at TCI, has one Black wire, MAKE SURE ITS GETTING A GOOD GROUND. You said you had 12V to the 8 pin plug, so also, check the ground return. Check: Do you have 12V to ALL 4 Ing Coil, Primary Windings ??? The 4 R/W wires to the Ing Coil plugs, All go back to a COMMON " Splice " buried in the wireing harness, so you have to make sure each coil is actually getting power. Also: Just forward, and left, of battery, ( under upper fairing ) is your Main Grounding stud, for almost all " end user electrical devices " there are 4 or 5 black wires grounded at this stud. Access it from under the radio panel. remove bolt, and make sure contacts are all clean. You "" MIGHT "" have a bad, "Side Stand Relay," even if the Switch is Ok on the Stand itself. You "" Might "" have a Bad, Emergency Roll Over Switch, Very unlikley, but possible. Its located " UP " and " behind " the head light assembly. Did you " CLEAN " all the Pins, in both plugs to the TCI ???
  25. GeorgeS
    Just fill it up to the filler hole, exact amount is not a big deal.
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