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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Sticking, dirty , float Valve. Use SEA-FOAM, in fuel, give it a week or so, to clean the carbs.
  2. GeorgeS
    OK, I will check it, but that won't fix the bike
  3. GeorgeS
    Dunlop E-3, MU90B16, fits your bike. Load rating is 930 lb. @ 40 PSI http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=86
  4. GeorgeS
    Be sure to Carefully Examin, the Large Plugs, going "TO " and " FROM " the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit for Burnt Pins. If the White 3 wire plug is Damaged at all, best to just cut it out, and Splice, and solder the three wires. The Output plug "from" Regulator ( 2 blacks, 2 reds ) might also be damaged. Also Check the Main Grounding Stud, located on upper left frame member, ( 3 in. forward, and 3 inchs to left ) of the Battery. ( on the Outer side of frame member, Under upper fairing section ) Access thru radio compartment. Also, check your Main Neg Bat. Cable, attach Point, Rt. Fwd. corner of engine case. ( Clean bolt, and resolder the Stud to the Cable ) ( Also check RED Cable at Starter motor , Cable end might be corroded )
  5. GeorgeS
    Check the Lable on container of Oil you are useing. Does it say " Energy Conserving " on the Lable ?? IF, so, try oil that Is Not, marked " Energy Conserving " This has been discussed many times on this web site. It might be your problem.
  6. GeorgeS
    Yup, sounds like the Ignition Switch, On-OFF contacts. Very common Trouble.
  7. GeorgeS
    The Plug you mentioned that was Damaged. ( From, the Regulator ) Follow the Black wires FROM that Plug. It goes Into the Harness, and then to the Main Grounding Point. --- Its Located, Left of Battery, and about 3 inches forward, UNDER, the Upper Left Fairing. Go in thru the Radio Panel, Its a 14MM bolt on the UPPER Frame Member, ??? You Might , have a bad , corroded Ground connection at this point. Even if it checks good with OHM Meter, Get to the Bolt head, and Clean the Several Grounding connections here. This is where ALL the Black wires for the Entire Wireing Harness, get their Main Ground Point. Also, double check your Battery Cable NEG one, where it connects to Right Forward corner of the Engine Case. Pull out the Bolt, and clean, and maby Resolder, the Stud on end of the Heavy Neg. Cable.
  8. GeorgeS
    You got the hose's re-installed, and the Air Cleaner Cover, sorted out. But what did you come up with concerning the Charging System problem you mentioned ??
  9. GeorgeS
    Not enough clearance at the drive shaft, to increase the Width of the Tire. Look at the widest part of your tire, near the front of drive shaft houseing.
  10. GeorgeS
    Thats part of it Jack, Not enough Refinary Capacity !! At peak consumption last year, they could not keep up. We were actually Importing finished product . !! ( Guess why not enough Refinary Capacity ?? Enviro Wacko's !!! ) Oil companies not allowed to build any new ones. We are sitting on Massive Nat Gas Deposits, Why not build Electric Generating Plants in the Middle of Nat Gas Fields, and make Electricty from the Gas, and just feed it into the Nation Wide Power Grid. Also, Compressed Nat Gas for vehicals !! They do it in Europe, but not here. We have HUGE Nat. Gas Deposits !!! Stupid, to not use the stuff. Other large Oil deposits have been found in Western States, But Oil companies not allowed to pull the stuff out. Again, Enviro Wacko's !! Massive Deposits, in North West, Mont. and across, N. Dakota. Thats starting to come on line. New Drilling Methods have gotten that Crude Flowing. But still not ramped up. But its comeing on line.
  11. GeorgeS
    Bad Plug. Bad Carb Diaphram ( maby holes in it ) . Misadjusted, idle mixture needle valve . Problem with Plug wire, ( remove from Cap, and Coil, nip of 1/4 inch of wire, re-install ) Maby a bad Plug cap. Measure the resistance of all 4 of them. Maby defective Ignition Coil. Maby problem with the Ignition Pick up coil. ( ie. bad fireing signal to TCI ) ( find plug between pick up coils, and TCI, open plug, clean contacts. check for loose wires ) Dirt in Carburator, Maby. Run 1/2 Can of SEA-FOAM, fuel system conditioner thru 2 tanks of fuel. Maby the Carb Linkage assembly need the be Syncronized. A few possibilities---
  12. GeorgeS
    However, I would Sync the Carbs First, ( correctly ) Make sure the " idle Mix jets are set correctly " Run couple hundred miles, then pull the Plugs, and see how they look. As to Rich, or Lean ----- Now, decide --- IF -- you want to go Leaner.
  13. GeorgeS
    Great!!! If you can't fix it with a Screw Driver , Use a Big Hammer !!!!!!!!! Whatever Works !!! I love it that ----
  14. GeorgeS
    It will go back up, it always does. There is no more supply now then 6 months ago. Remember 50 percent of Crude Oil, is NOT used for Vehicals. Many other ues's. That demand won't change much. Start makeing plans now for you next Vehical purchace, Something that gets 10 more MPG. Also, watch your Heating costs for this winter, I'm betting those numbers will not go down much at all, if any. My Last Car Payment is this Month. So extra money for gas. Helps for awhile. The old car is still running, 18 MPG, but I'm starting to look for a 35 MPG Replacement. However, keeping the old one running is still the cheapest way to go. I'm planning on another 3 years at least on the old 93 T-Bird, for local transportation. Its still running like a Swiss Watch !! ( as does my Venture )
  15. GeorgeS
    As far as I know, there is not a Radial type, that will fit this bike. ( I might be wrong ) Avon Venoms, Dunlop E-3, Michilean Commander, or Continental tires, Are what most folks reccomend. Metzlers, have been chunking out. Many reports of that over the last few years, and two more just last month. I think one guy reported a blow out, with only about 1K on a new Metzler. Dunlop D-404's most reports, only about 8,000 miles of service to the wear bars.
  16. GeorgeS
    Call the dealer and ask. This is a safty issue, it should be covered. Steering yoke needing Re-Torque, is fairly common on these bikes. The subject has come up often on this web site.
  17. GeorgeS
    Also, Check out the Circuit " From " the " 15 Amp Ignition Fuse " You will be looking for any EXCESS High Resistance Across the following components. ---- Service Manual, with schematics, is avialable on line, this web site , ------ Apply CRC 2-26, or Equivilant Electrical Contact Cleaner, ( Radio shack carries, this, or Home Depot, and Lowes for the CRC brand product ) 1. 40 Amp main fuse, Open and clean fuse element, tighten screws that hold element in place. 2. You migh have high resistance ACROSS the " ON-OFF " contacts of the Ignition Switch, ( give it a bath with CRC 2-26 ) ( blow out with compressed air, and repeat ) 3. 15 AMP, Ignition Fuse HOLDER> Check the Prongs that hold fuse in place, They are brittle and crack and break, Clean the contact surface. 4. Your " RUN - STOP " Switch on right handle bar. Water gets into the switch, the contacts Corode, and turn into High REsistance Contacts. ( thus, lowering voltage to coils, and TCI ) 5. Follow the two wire cable from the Run Stop Switch, forward, to behind headlight. There is a pull apart connector, on that cable. Open it an clean it. --- All of the above item's can in- ject Series , IN Line , Resistance and Cause a Voltage Drop, to the 4 Ignition Coils, And the voltage Supply for the TCI. In other words, instead of 12V to the Ing Coil Primary windings, you " Might " have a lower voltage there. In one case, one fellow found only about 4 volts avialable to fire the coils. ( because of excess series resistance in the above components ) --- Also, Check your Charging Voltage at Bat. + Terminal, with Engine running. Make sure its at Least 13.8 Volts, should be 14.1. IF not, you might have Battery Charging Problems. --- Is your Battery " Fully Charged " ??? Charge it at 2 AMP Rate, for at least 6 to 8 hours. ( With a real charger, not a trickle charger )
  18. GeorgeS
    If ------ you did need to completly replace the Pumpkin. The do show up quite often on E-Bay. Also, for Ref: I believe the Pumpkins from EARLY Years of the V-Max, will also work. ( Check with Rick Butler for parts that you may or might need ) If that becomes necessary. As to metal shaveings, in the drained out oil. There will always be some evidence . ie. very fine particles evident in the oil, that is not usually a problem . However if you could actually identify something as a chunk of metal thats a different story. How many miles is on this bike? Under 50K, probably no real problem ---- Over 80K , well then " Maby " Another approach, is after replaceing the Oil, run it for maby 500 to 1000 miles, then drain the oil again, into a CLEAN CONTAINER, and then "Strain it " thru Cheese Cloth. For a better identification of any types of metal shaveings. Let us know what transpires
  19. GeorgeS
    Are you actually haveing some specific problems with the bike ? If its running good, Just use NGK plugs, and 87 octain fuel, your good to go. You have about 95 HP, Plugs should last at least 20K,
  20. GeorgeS
    Look up the Diameter of the Intake Manifolds, Usually stated in MM. Increasing the size of Exhaust pipes is common proceedure to increase performance of Harleys. And Muffler capacity. My brother in law, who builds engines, and rides Harleys recently told me that most Harley's can benifit from a larger, more free flowing exhaust system. Header diameter, and Muffler size. But I'm not an expert on harleys.
  21. GeorgeS
    Very strange one ??? Only thing I can say is keep a close eye on it. Close watch for any sign of fluid leakage. Very strange --
  22. GeorgeS
    Just run a can of SEA-FOAM once or twice a year. Re-Jetting. No in my opinion, on these bikes, lots of money and work, and could make things worse if not done right. Plugs. stay with the Stock NGK plugs. I reccomend completly Draining the fuel tanks at least Once a year. ( or use 1/2 can of HEET, to get any moisture run out of the system ) Most important Maintenance, is Keeping the Throttle Linkage properly Synced. Doing the Sync proceedure , solves most performance problems. If you can find a member close to you to run you thru that job, once, then its easy to do. ( A tool is needed to do it correctly ) The Morgan Carb Tune. Just google it. If you have any Specific Problems, just ask, sombody will jump in with the answer.
  23. GeorgeS
    I think he is headed Down the Road, with a big Smile on his Face !! And lots of Volts, on the Meter
  24. GeorgeS
    Few years back I was reading thru the " Electrix " information. They claimed that they use a Higher Quality Insulation material on the Wires. On my 89 Stock Stator, only the lower coils were Blackened. So only One of the 3 phases, had dropped the AC output level, to about 20 percent of normal voltage. As stated above, the current draw from heated gloves would not be enough to cause this, unless there were other items adding to the total current draw. I would suspect bad wireing between stator and regulator. Or possible the Regulator itself, or a battery with an internal failure causing high current draw. Check the 3 Phase AC voltage, level a couple times a year on your stator, and its easy to stay ahead of this situation. If one Phase starts dropping in voltage level, you might as well order your new stator, as its just a matter of time ---
  25. GeorgeS
    The Intake Vaccume pressure is not all that much. I had one that Was leaking, I could actually Hear it, running at 65MPH. I stopped and wrapped it with several layers of 'black tape, Everything just fine until I got it replaced. Even if yours is leaking, you don't need a set of 4. Just replace the one thats leaking .
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