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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    You might have bad gas, or water in tank, Completly Drain the Tank. Also open the Drain SCREW on EACH Carb. and Drain the bowls. Now with Fresh gas, and more Sea Foam, do the CARB Drain every day for several days. And try to get as much run time as possible . You might also need to replace the Plugs, in a few days if you can get some run time on it. Make sure the Caps are Installed on the Vaccume Ports on each INTake Manifold.
  2. GeorgeS
    Two or three trips a week to your local friendly Gym, for about 6 months should cure the problem.
  3. GeorgeS
    No voltage drop now across the Burnt Pins, ( you remove the high resistance ) Now that you have it running, Do an accurate DC Voltage REading across the Battery with a Digital Voltmeter. You should see 13.8 to 14.2 volts. IF its above,13.8, your good. But keep an eye on the reading. If below 13.0V, then better start doing some more trouble shooting.
  4. GeorgeS
    Also, I had the pleasure of flying for an entire day across Wyoming and Idaho with the Condor !! A day I will always remember-- theres not enough of those days in this life !
  5. GeorgeS
    Do you hear the fuel pump clicking for about 5 to 10 seconds each time you turn the Key to the ON position ?? If you don't hear it, its not working.
  6. GeorgeS
    Due to the Warning circuits installed. If the Circuit Borard with the Warning Senceing Components Fails, you could loose your Low Beam on the Road. SO: I Installed a Complete New circuit. A DPDT Switch. ---One side of this switch OPENS the Stock circuit -- TO --- the Low Beam on the Bulb. --- The Second set of contacts, Takes Voltage From, a New Fuse, thru the new switch, To the Low Beam Contacts. In other words, if the OEM Circuit Fails, I simply Throw the Switch, and My Low Beam is Powered from a Competly Seperate, Fused, Circuit. Also, I have noted, that in the " Bypass " mode, the Low Beam is noticable Brighter. Apparently there is some Voltage Drop across the Warning Sensor Circuits. Next time I open the Instrument panel, I'm going to try to figure out How to Disable the Headlight Warning Circuit. I realize that the " electricaly challanged " will have trouble with this, but the electrical guru's out there won't !! and should be able to help the others. I have never actually had to use it on the road, But, Its there if I need it.
  7. GeorgeS
    Replace the Pads, and Replace ALL of the Fluid. Front and back. Use Dot -4 fluid, or Valvoline Synthetic fluid. Check for any sign of Fork Oil leaking onto the Caliper assemblies. I drive in the Rain, all the time ( IN SEATTLE ) and what you are reporting Is Not Normal !!!! Stop Rideing the bike untill you get it fixed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  8. GeorgeS
    If you cut out the 3 wire plug, there should be plenty of wire to Splice the Ends together, Use a " Western Union Type Splice technic " Do a Google Search if you don't know how to make a Western Union Splice. And be sure to Solder the New Splice's with Rosin Core Solder. Apply a double layer of Heat Shrink Tubine ( avialable at Auto parts stores )
  9. GeorgeS
    Fabricate a set of Jumper Cables, Useing #12 or #10 Stranded Wire. Find Clips that will fit your Motorcycle battery, and on the other end use Clips from an old Set of Car jumper cables. I have two sets of these, carry one in each bike. Don't take up to much space.
  10. GeorgeS
    Hmmmm ?? Seems like pretty good service out of a Chevy motor -- Just made last payment on my Chevy Blazer, 62K and plan to keep it on the road a long long time !!!
  11. GeorgeS
    I would Drain the Gas Tank, Completly. Drain it dry. Also, Drain Each of the 4 Carb Bowls. Each has a drain hose, and a #2 phillips head screw to open the Drain. Put in about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel, add 1/2 can of " SEA-FOAM " fuel conditioner, and about 1/2 can of HEET. Now run it every day, and drain the bowls again in a couple of days. Give the Sea Foam about 4 or 5 days to clean out the Carbs. Now Re-Evaluate the Situation. Check the Plug wires on Each Spark Plug, make sure they are in Place. You might also have some bad plugs on the right side. Also, pull the Two Plugs from the TCI unit, and clean the Pins with Electrical Contact Cleaner.
  12. GeorgeS
    I'm staying out of this one.
  13. GeorgeS
    His Mail Box, is Full !! Can sombody get him this information ?? Empty your mail box, Atlanta !!!!!
  14. GeorgeS
    I don't remember the details now, but several years ago as I recall. There was an attempt in one of the states, to BAN, carrying a Dog, as a passenger. Just the other day, I saw a fellow pull into a gas station with a Small dog in his Tank Bag. I thought that was neet !!!
  15. GeorgeS
    I have heard similiar stories. Never happened to me. I think I would start by lubricating the Throttle Linkage assembly's, between the 4 carb throttle plates. Also might be a sticking Throttle Plate shaft. Check your Throttle Pull Cable, at the Left Forward Carb. Make sure there is some amount of Slack in the cable with closed throttle. ( 1/16th to 1/8th inch of slack ) Also, check the Exposed part of the Pull Cable for any sign of fraying--- Also, back out the Master Idle Adjust Screw, untill Its NOT makeing contact, now you should have some slack in the cable. Check your idle speed. It should be running about 600 rpm, then bring the screw back up close to 8 to 900 rpm, and see what you have. ( Re evaluate the situation ) Most likley you will need to do the Re-Sync Proceedure on the Throttle Linkage Assembly.
  16. GeorgeS
    Many folks have experimented with this modification: Before you do anything, Remove the cover, and try to ride your bike around the block. You will find that the engine runs, BAD, with the cover removed. ( if at all ) I have put 6 , 1/2 inch holes on each side of the cover, Bike runs good, however the Intake Noise gets very loud. I pluged half the holes, and ran 3 on each side of the cover. Performance , may or may not have improved. But thats a very subjective comment. Don't make any radical changes to the air box.
  17. GeorgeS
    --- DARN -- I hate Snow !!!
  18. GeorgeS
    Fuse, for CLASS system, is a Seperate Fuse Holder. You have 5 fuse's on top of the Battery. ( glass type fuse's ) " ACC " " Head " "Ignition " " Signal " " Tail " You have a second fuse holder unit, located forward, and a little right of the Battery, which has. ( 4 ATM type fuses inside. ) " Back - up" ( for the audio system) " Audio, CB " " Fan " " Hazard " The Class Fuse Holder, is a Seperate Unit, with just One fuse inside ( wires going into and out of this holder, are Red/Blue
  19. GeorgeS
    I check the pressure each morning on long trips. I check the pressue about every 2 weeks with a gauge, for local driveing. I Eyeball, and Kick them every morning on the first ride. I Visually check them at Every Stop, during the day, or any ride. Once long ago, I had a Blow out at 70MPH, it was not a fun Experience.
  20. GeorgeS
    A tire should not loose that amount of Air Pressure you are talking about. If its loosing, 20 to 50 percent air pressure, in 4 to 6 weeks, Its Leaking !!!! If the Tire is allready cupped, as you say, Take the bike to an independent Shop, have a Dunlop E-3 Tire Installed. ( Or Avon, or Michilean Commander, or Continental Tire ) The OEM , ( STOCK ) tires are Junk anyway. ( Bridgestones, OR , D-404's ) If I decide to buy a New 2nd Gen, ( or any other HEAVY Motorcycle ) ) I would remove the OEM Tires very soon, and replace them with some, High Quality, Safe Tires !!
  21. GeorgeS
    I'm thinking, right side, just under the seat, vertically above the Oil filler cap. A wire pig tail there, and it covers the thing on the end of the pig tail.
  22. GeorgeS
    I see you have an 2002 bike. That fluid was almost 5 years Old. It Was time to change it !!!! Good time to do the REAR, and the Clutch System also. ie. Replace the Fluid. I know lots of folks don't agree with that, How do the brakes Actually stop the bike ?? Did you try a few High speed stops, ?? how to they actually work ?
  23. GeorgeS
    Do google search for " Motorcycle tire Bead Breaker " There are several available. Mark on new tire, goes at the Valve Stem position. Don't forget the rotation arrow. Buy good quality breaker bars, Don't use those small ones that fit in a tool kit. Be sure to Clean the rim, before re-installing. Use Vasoline as a lubricante during the re-installation proceedure. However, if you can find sombody, to change them for about $25 apiece, I would not mess with them myself.
  24. GeorgeS
    Make darn sure, you have the EXACT Correct Size Metric Socket on the Bolt. Bolt is 6 point, DO NOT USE 12 Point Sockets. !!!!! Heat the rotor, should expand it. Give the Liquid Wrench Time to work, Apply several times, and some heat, will help it work into the threads.
  25. GeorgeS
    Did you try Applying some Heat, to the Nut, with propane torch ??? Might help. Also, apply Liquid Wrench, several times, with Heat, and give it a few days, to work into the threads.
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