GeorgeS

If you are really worried about it, just replace the bulb about once every two years, and go for a ride, don't worry about it !! :confused24:

Just change the gear lube every 10,000 miles.

Whats the milage on it.?? 20K on these is just broke in !! Your goin!! to like it!!!! ( After a few mods, of course )

Whats the milage on it.?? 20K on these is just broke in !!

Well, I guess that settles that !

I know what you mean, I lived in Minnesota for 30 years of my life !! Believe it or not, the Sun is Shinning here in Seattle today, and it "" NOT "" Raining !! I might go for a ride this afternoon, ( well, maby ) :big-grin-emoticon:

I ride that couple times a year, but I usually only make it to Williams Calif. and stop for a steak dinner at Granzella's Restaurant !!! Fantastic steak dinners there !!!!! Redding, CA. to La Grande, Or, is a better ride though. OR, from Redding, take CA. 36 West to the Pacific Coast !! Even better

Removing extra dead weight is always good !! Not sure I agree on removeing the crash bars though ?? But, have to admit, I like the look. Removeing the AIS system, will pull off another about 5 lb. Also, if you " do not " use the Heel Shifter, thats another 1/2 lb. to cut off. I only ride SOLO, so pulled off the Pass Seat, and Pass foot boards also. And put an OEM Luggage rack at the Pass position. But hey. I like what you have done, Looks good !!

As general rule the OEM tires last 8 to 10K Michelien, and Avon, several other popular replacements, average about 12 to 15K The Cheaper Dunlops ( as used on most harley's ) run about 13K The Dunlop E-3's run on average 18 to 22K depending on loading and driveing methods. ( Cost a bit more, but worth the extra money !!! ) I have gotten 20K out of 3 of them, and #4 is now at 13K on my 08 RSTD, and looks like it will go another 5 to 6 K easy ! I ride SOLO, Also, to consider the caseing on an E-3 is 1/2 inch thick, Its Dunlops design for GoldWings, heavier bikes. I have had absolutely NO Issues with 4 of these rear tires !

Is it made in china ???

Harley, the black lab, who has resided here for the last 6 years of his life passed on last week. He had a good run !! and 7 people who loved him. Harley! was a " Good Dog " !! Anyway, life goes on, more roads to travel :depressed:

Get a DEKA, also Harley Dealers sell them !! there own brand name, DO NOT , buy an AGM made in China (( long story but I got took )) A DEKA, is made in the USA !! AGM's have higher CCA rateings, they cost more, About $100.00, but are worth the money. AGM's Normally hold betwen 12.6 to 12.9 Volts !! I currently have an 8 year old Odyssey in my Busa, still going strong. I currently have an 7 year old Odyessy as #2 on my RSTD, still going strong. Call " Condor " he always knows where the best place is to order a DEKA !!!

My point for starting this thread, was basicly to just figure out exactly what those two extra relays, were doing, and where they were located, on the bike. Now have those answers ( thanks to all for the help ) Also, my thinking is I would like to put the Fuel Pump on a Seperate Fuse. So if pump fails and blows fuse, its easy to troubleshoot. ( I know, low failure rate ) but, Hyw 50 across Nev. is a lonely place ??? :whistling: Then I found that Ground, comeing out of the Ignitor Unit. Hmmm that was puzzling?? Ok now have answers, I think I'm going to go with a Seperate Fuse, and maby a new SEPERATE Bosh relay also. I'm going to use the " BackUp ' fuse in the main fuse box, which on my RSTD is not being used for anything else, ( I allready rewired that fuse to only have input, when Key is On ) There are just to many conditions, that have to be met to keep this pump running. ?? I just want it powered, when the Key Is " ON " I want it on a Seperate fuse, with its own Seperate Relay ( Both easy to get to !!! ) And, I want to get that Start Circuit Bypass Relay, moved to more Accesable position. Guess I will have to Lengthen the cable to do that.

These carbs are very reliable, as far as carbs go . You just need to take care of them. Keep fuel clean, filters clean, and Do the Carb Sync, Proceedure on a regular basis. ( about once a year ) You need a tool for the Sync proceedure, ( about $100.00 for the tool ) Also, most of us run a fuel cleaning product such as Sea-Foam, or Techraline, on a regular basis. I would say, that nobody here, is sorry they bought a Venture due to the Carbs. Not that we would not rather have fuel injection, But--- there is more then that to consider. These are GREAT Bikes !!! We love them !!!!!!!! Even with the carbs If you buy in !! any help you need is here !! Just ask, Service, mods, repairs etc etc. And a drive down the road to sombodies, garage for help !!! Welcome to the group, (( P.S. lots of experts here !!! ))

Interesting this should come up ! ( Which road to take ) ??? :stirthepot: :whistling: Just the other day I was looking at a U.S. Map-- I noticed something that I have not been concerned with for many years. ( Since before interstate freeways ) ! OK, most of us usually travel East and West, ( well most of the time ) via the interstates. But remember, there are still a lot of the old U.S. Highways, running North and South Border to border !! The " Odd Numbered " U.S. highways. Might be interesting to ride some of these routes !! Very little traffic, maby better mom and pop resturants, maby a few more old interesting towns, to stop at , and hey, maby ever a better Steak House, here and there. From Mississippii River to West coast , check out these routes on a U.S map. Routes, 14, 50, 54, 61, 71, 81, 83, 85, 95, 97, 99, 101, 191. And I'm sure there are more, East of the River !! Well, just a thought, " The Road, Less Traveled " as they say ?? :whistling:

Interesting, I was also thinking about Extending the cable for this relay, and moveing it to a " More Accessible " position on the bike. Have not heard that this relay is a high failure rate item. But , if a guy needed to change it out on the road, would be nice to have it in a more accessible position. Was thinking about buying a spare to carry with me on long trips ??? Let me know if you find the perfect place to mount it, I'm thinking, maby under the Left side, side cover, Just Under the Fuse Box, there. But the cable to the relay would have to be " Extended about 12 inches "

The Pump relay, control coil, gets its ground from the Ignitior unit, Now I am wondering, what logic the Ignitor unit is useing to control the relay ? I put meter on leads " to the Pump " turned key on, there is voltage there for about 3 seconds, then its OFF. On the old 1st gen, the pump had voltage to it at all times, I don't have a problem with my pump, I'm just curious as to how its being controled from the Ignitor unit, and Why, did they wire it up this way. ?? Hmmm "" I know I should just go for a ride. :whistling: Thanks for the help.

So its not just ONE Relay as per the Fuel Pump, block diagram, ( simplified circuit schematic ) ?? Thanks, I'm thinking I might get a spare one of those to carry along, need to bone up on all of whats inside of that thing. Lots of wires ???

OK, so nobody knows the answer to this one ?? :confused24:

OK, who knows where the " Fuel Pump Relay " is located ??? Is it the smaller blue relay on the right side of battery Under the removable cover ??? IPC is showing " relay" but does not identify it ??

If so, here is something to consider for a vacation run !! https://sites.google.com/site/gpskevin/adventurerides/trans-america-trail Coast to coast, via dirt roads, !! :whistling:

All the above, especially tire pressure, and maby Worn Front tire. If you need tire, I suggest a set of Dunlop E-3's ( I know everybody does not agree with that ) OK, have you done the Head Shake Driveing test ??? On straight flat road, ( that you are familiar with ) ride bike at increasing speeds, from about 30 MPH up to about 70 mph. Remove hands from both bars ( slightly !!! ) and check for " Head Shake " !! Do this every 10MPH up to about 70. If bars start shakeing, grab them FAST, as this situation can get very dangerous, Very Fast !!!!!!!!! If you have head shake, the Torque Setting, of the Fork Steering Bearings, needs to be increased, OR, you need to Replace the steering head bearings, or just Greese them and RE - Set the Torque setting. Bottom line here is this is NOT, a fun job. As you have to pull off lots of stuff to get to the NUT, !!! Usually, a Very Small amount of increased torque will to the job. Its always best to start with a NEW Set of Tires, and Service the rear suspension first before tearing into the Front Steering. Point here is, if you are Fairly New to rideing--- HEAD SHAKE IS DANGEROUS, AND --- WILL CAUSE YOU TO CRASH !!!!!!!!!! ----- Any motorcycle will do this !! its just a matter of what Speed, does the condition rear its ugly head !!! 1st Gen Ventures, have been notorious for this condition, 2nd gen not so much, ( My 89 did this, and adjusting the Nut on steering head cured the problem ) But, I still had the head shake start at about 110 mph. However I don't normally ride at that speed, so not a problem. Frame stability and bike geometry effect head shake. Think of it this way, A Suziki Hyuabusa, is designed to go about 200 MPH. Head shake is not a problem on these bikes untill you hit about 210 MPH on a race track !! I have had my Busa up to about 135 mph, and Absolutly NO Head Shake !! But the FRAME construction on this bike is " Massive " compared to any Cruizer, Harley, or Venture. My Father in Law, crashed on a Honda 450, on the Ventura Freeway in Los Angeles, back in 1972 due to " Head Shake "

Lots of products out there for doing this repair. I use JB - Weld, and usually add a piece of thin metal backing for added strength. Made several repairs on the old 89 venture, with this method. Worked every time

This !! I also do this, shoot some greese with needle attachment every time I have a wheel OFF. So far have not had a bearing failure in the last 30 years !!

Be sure to vote, in 2014 !!! :whistling: