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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Boeing is have a very hard time finding Assembly line people. Especially anybody with some years of experience, Aircraft Maintenance, who holds and AirFrame, and Powerplants Licence. All assembly lines, at Renton, and Mainly Everett Washington. If qualified, apply thru the MAINE EMPLOYMENT OFFICE IN CHICAGO>
  2. GeorgeS
    Well, find a 1st gen, and get to work on it, you know the ropes !!!
  3. GeorgeS
    Its possibly Low Voltage, to the Starter-- You have replaced the Stator, so double check the Output Plug " From " the Regulator. Make sure the 2 black wires " from " that plug actually have a good ground. Neg. bat cable attach point, Rt. Fwd cornere of engine block, Clean the Bolt. Clean and Resolder, all 4 end Studs of the Battery cables. ( The studs get corroded ) This will cause Voltage Drop. ( use propane torch, and Rosin Core Solder ) You might have to remove Starter, open it up, clean the Commutator. Open your 40 Amp main fuse, make sure the 2 small Screws are tight. Make sure your DC charging Voltage is Reading at least 13.5 to 14.0 DC at the Battery. Use a Digital Volt/Ohm meter, to make sure. Don't believer the Panel Meter. If your Battery is over 3 years old, Replace it. Consider, Dry Cell, or Gell Cell Battery. --- You Might have Burned Up Main Contacts " INSIDE " of the Starter Solinoid. Disconnect, the heavy cable from the Solinoid, To , the Starter. Then actuate the solinoid, with start button. Now READ the RESISTANCE, ACROSS THE MAIN CONTACTS, with an OHM Meter. with Solinoid actuated. These solinoids are known, to burn the heavy contacts inside. The best Fix is to replace with an Automobile Type Solinoid, with heavier Contacts. --------- However, haveing said all the above, your problem is most likley, the " Starter Engage Clutch " But check ALL the above, first-- Have you been Charging your battery, with a REAL battery Charger ??? or just a Trickle charger ??? Use a Car battery charger, 2 Amp Rate, for at least 6 to 8 hours-- But I doubt thats the problem, current problem. Your problem is not new. Many of us have been thru all of this, Its a Combination of All the Above. Not just one item.
  4. GeorgeS
    as long as your working on it, read thru the posting by " JerryK " yesterday, at 07:37 AM. Some interesting information, may be of interest
  5. GeorgeS
    Check with " Condor " on the anti dive item. As to delinking the brakes, that gets complicated, Some have done it, but most folks reccomend against it. Also, replaceing the Front Calipers, with the R1 or R6 yamaha model front calipers seems to be a popular modification. Check with " Squeeze " on the brake information.
  6. GeorgeS
    So its Stress, between the drive shaft, and the houseing. What I normally do, when re installing rear wheel, is, loosen the 4 nuts on the pumplin, and re-apply torque in stages, to the 4 nuts, and axel nut. Ane Tap Tap on everything with plastic Mallet, to relieve Stress, as I Re-Torque in stages, up to the final Torque settings. However, I never checked shim adjustment. But I will check that now. Thanks much for the Information:
  7. GeorgeS
    Remove Headlight assembly to get access to the Instrument Panel Remove the Drive Cable houseing " from ' the Speedometer Unit. Also, remove cable houseing at front Wheel Axel. Remove Drive cable from cable sheath. Clean and hand greese the Drive cable. Lubricate the Bushing IN the Speedo unit where you removed the Cable. Use WD-40 to clean, then Spay into the bushing some type of Lubricant. Its not real easy to get to. You might have to remove the Instrument Panel itself, and get the Speedo unit out, to do a good lubrication of the entire unit. The loud noise comes from the Bushing, where the Drive Cable, turns the speedo unit.
  8. GeorgeS
    Well, last 3 weeks, here, has been nothing but, computer, rebuild, fix, re- install, downloads, etc. etc. etc, on and on. !! Wifes computer, got sick, almost 10 year old, slow Compac, so decided it was time for that one to go to Trash Can !! It went , quietly, after removeing all the internal parts. My backup computer was also sick, so I Added 2 G's of Ram, Re-Installed XP, and better video card, ( from junk box ) Moved it to wifes Office-- Wa La, Wifie, now has a good, Fast, computer. (running like a Swis Watch, I might add ) My old main computer, INOP, sitting in Corner from two years ago, was stareing at me !! So, I bought New ASUS, M3A7mother board, and AMD Phemon Quad core, processor, more Ram, 320 GB drive, and copy of Vista !!!! Wa La, New Standby computer--- Really flys !! Cost, for this one, about $600. OK, Now I got a box full of OLD Parts, while putting them in Storage, I realize I got enough stuff to build another computer-- Asus,P4C MOB, and Pentium-Chip. But no Case. So, another trip down to Fry's, new box with 2 fans, $68 bucks. Stick in all the old parts, Re Install Win XP, Old Ram Chips, ( 4 at 512 mb ) and Wa La, Another Spare computer !!! this will go in the Garage, ( also running like a Swiss Watch ) work Bench Area. --- Anyway, I'm all Puttered Out !!! Also, added a new Linksys- router-- 4, puters on line, at blazeing Speed !!! all working !!! I'm very satisfied with myself-- time to go to the Gym-- Time to do yearly Service on both the bikes, and New Brake pads, in the Chevy for the Wife!! But--- Temp in Seattle might hit 60 F, today, and It " Might " Not Rain , according to the Weatherman, so I just Might go for a Ride !!! Thats my 2 Cents worth for today
  9. GeorgeS
    So, bottom line here, IS-- Re-Shimming something in the Rear Drive Pumpkin, will fix the infamous Whine ?? Is is possible for you to get Details as to how this is done? Or can you Explain in detail how this fellow actually Re shims the rear end ?? I'm sure many folks would be very interested. If the fix was done in less then an hour, it should be easy to do.
  10. GeorgeS
    If your MPG, is that low, you have other problems, Nothing to do with Gear Radio. 5th gear on these bike is allready Over Drive ! Lowering Cruzing RPM on these engines is not the right thing to do. They are not Harley's !!! Lugging these engines is the Wrong Thing to Do !!
  11. GeorgeS
    Remove Wheel, --- Remove 4 nuts holding on pumpkin, and remove. Then just pull out the drive shaft. Be sure to check the Oil Seal, where Shaft connects to the Pumpkin, might be leaking SAE-90 oil into the Drive shaft houseing. Be sure to greese the wheel spline before reinstalling on the pumpkin
  12. GeorgeS
    Well I bought a refurbished GPS, last year. Took it on two trips, and so far its still working OK. As far as what that means, I would say a precentage of them were returned by the original purchacer, simply because they did not like it. Another percentage might be software failiure, and the unit simple had the software reinstalled, and unit repackaged. Another precentage would be the person simply could not figure out how to use the thing, so they thought something was wrong with it, and returned it. Then another factor would be to compare the Price of $119 to the original full Retail, which was probably around 3 to 4 hundred. What is the Offered Return policy? on the refurbished unit that you are considering ? If they will take it back, if it fails, then your risk would be quit low, and the saveings pretty good. So--- ?? as with any Electronic Equipment, there is always some risk. However over the years, I have never bought a Warrenty on Electronic equipment, and so far I am way ahead of the Game. My 2 cents worth
  13. GeorgeS
    Sorry to hear that, However, Keep trying to run the engine for 10 to 20 min a day. And Check the Draining on the Two Carbs, that Did NOT Drain Today. ---- THE MAGIC SEA-FOAM, JUST MIGHT FREE UP THE FLOAT VALVES, GIVEN A FEW MORE DAYS OF SOAKING !!! It has worked for others, I would say give it at least 4 or 5 more days before you give up.
  14. GeorgeS
    Just find the " Main Idle Adjust " Screw. Should be on Left, Fwd, Carb. DO NOT, mistake one of the " SYNC " Screws ( 1 on left side, and 2 on right side ) for the Single , Master Idle adjust.
  15. GeorgeS
    Trust him!! I got him all trained in on fixing the 1st Gen Charging Systems !!! Everything he knows, he learned the Hard Way !!!!!
  16. GeorgeS
    Do the carb drain proceedure 2 or 3 times over about 5 days. Get as much Engine Run time as possible, no matter how its running. when you get it going good enough, to drive, try to get some miles on it, with engine running at high RPM. More miles is better. Keep a dose of at least 1/2 can of SEA-FOAM per tank of gas, or Valvoline, Synthetic Fuel Injector Cleaner. ( thats also very good Stuff !!!!!! ) After all this, try to get the Plugs Replaced Also !!
  17. GeorgeS
    They are AGM, Dry Cell, Technology. ( ie. Mil. Spec. ) No fluid to Add. They charge to 12.7 to 12.8 volts. They put out about 3 times the Cranking Amps of a Lead Acid Battery. They Last a Long Long Long Time. They can be mounted in any postition except UPSIDE DOWN> However they cost more, but are worth the extra money. I have three of them in use, and absolutly no problems for 3 years. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/ Check their website for complete specifications, and fitment guide.
  18. GeorgeS
    Most likley a new set of clutch springs will solve the problem. The clutch plates on these bikes don't wear out. But the Springs do get weak. Cheap fix, new set of springs, and a new gasket. Takes about 2 hours of work. No big deal.
  19. GeorgeS
    Get some Bosh Relays, as Auto Parts Dealer, Power any added accessories thru a Relay. See this link. --- Be sure to Install " INLine " fuses, for all added accesories. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et208.htm
  20. GeorgeS
    The New Springs are made of Larger Diameter Material. So, the Springs take up more Cubic Volume inside the forks, Therefore, less space for Oil. With new springs installed, you have to use about 1 Oz. Less Oil in each Fork. The eaisest way to do this is to Drain, are put back oz less then the Stock amount.
  21. GeorgeS
    Did you completly!!! Drain the Fuel tank ?? Do that, then Drain the Carb bowls. You have to make sure you are getting Flow, thru All 4 Carbs. Remove fuel line From the Petcock, and DRAIN THE TANK, COMPLETLY. Start over with all new Fuel I know you don't want to do that, but do it anyway !!!!
  22. GeorgeS
    Thanks much for that Information !!! I will do that on my next ride. If it ever stops raining in Seattle !!!! I sure have been getting a lot of other things done, but no rideing---
  23. GeorgeS
    Well, I'm Retired, so I just drive, Stop where it says Food, Gas, Bed, I don't really care what road I"m on. Get there, when I get there.
  24. GeorgeS
    Well they have to be accessable, Thats why they were put there. The idea is to be able to drain the bowls, as regular maintenance. Before you rip and tear anything, Put One Can of SEA Foam in about 1/2 tank of gas. And get as much run time as possible on the engine, now mater how it runs. Run it several times a day, for 4 or 5 days, then re-evaluate the situation. That Might Fix it, and you don't have to tear anything apart. Sombody, must know, how to access the Drain Screws on a 2nd Gen !! Its Easy on a 1st Gen. Like I said, they are put there to Use, they have to be accessible !! Who knows how to get to them on a 2nd Gen ????? Speak Up !! Folks, Somebody Knows
  25. GeorgeS
    Carb Drain Screw: See page 5-1 Service manual, Item #12 is the Drain hose. Drain Valve ( #2 Phillips head, or Straight slot head Screw ) located oposit side from hose. Left side of bike, ----Look at, Aft Carb, ----look Aft side of carb, Just Above where its mounted INTO the Rubber Intake Manifold. You will be looking right at it. You will be looking right at it !! Left Fwd, is harder to get at, but in same place on bottom of carb. One on Each Carb. Open drains ONE at a time, then turn key to ON position, to see if the Pump is actually pumping fuel thru Each Carb. IF not, use Heavy dose of SEA Foam and give it a couple of days to work.
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