GeorgeS

Another Big Storm comeing in off the Pacific Tomorrow. High winds to 80 - 90 MPH in the CASCADE Mountain, foothills. Heavy Snow, and White Out, Blizzard Conditions, are predicted. !! Never heard the Weatherman Say the Word, " Blizzard " here in Seattle before !! Its heading East Folks, just a heads up !!

Get a new cable assembly, or used on E-Bay, you will need that whatever the end result. If the Bushing, in the Speedo Unit is Frozen, most likley it will not be repairable, however, you will have to remove the instrument panel, to Examine the unit to make a final determination if its repairable.

Check this out, http://www.v8snowblowers.com/id15.html If that old Pickup truck out behind the barn has an engine that still runs, Consider this !!!

Tonight, the weatherman, is talking another big storm heading into Seattle, from the NW, 80 to 90 MPH Wind Friday, he said !! -- I don't like the sound of that. So, midwest, get ready for the next one !!

Don't claim to be that, just an Aviation Avionics Tech. Spent my whole life working with electricity, made a liveing at it.

Common sence, ( from an electricians standpoint ) method of hooking up any Battery Charger, is Hook it Directly to the Battery Terminals. Most chargers, ( trickle ) come with a set of leads, that hook directly to the battery terminals. Run these two wires to somplace that give easy access to the Plug in Point. A trickle charger will usually have #12 or #14 wires, included to make the hook up. If not, make up cableing useing that size wire. Put studs, on wire ends, to mount to battery, and Crimp, and Solder the new studs. Install a 2 wire Pull Apart Plug, avialable at any auto parts store, if the Unit did not include this set up. Hooking a charger to any other point , on Any vehical, is just asking for trouble !! ( It could manifest itself, in many forms !!! none of which will make you happy )

Well if Squirting Oil up into the bushing where you disconnect the cable, won't stop the noise--- then you will have to Remove the entire Instrument panel, open the two halves, a nd get to the speedo Unit. Hand lubricate all the moveing parts. Inspect the bushing. Maby it to far gone to fix with just lubricant. But, I don't think so. If you remove it, the also replace all the light bulbs inside th Inst panel. and also do the Resolder Job, on the the Circuit board, that has all the diodes on it.

Was just watching the Weather Channel, the nice lady said, that " Las Vegas , is getting some much needed SNOW " !!! And, the Los Angeles River is flooding into the streets in Compton. Hmmmm? more signs of Global Warming I see, PHX, is down to 57 deg. my wife left there Sat Morning, looks like she got out of town just in time, and safely back to Seattle for the Snow Storm !!

Never put in more then 1/2 way between the two bars on the Glass. Put in 3 Qts, then run engine to Fill the New Oil Filter !!! Let Oil Settle, then top off the Level, to NO MORE THEN 1/2 WAY BETWEEN THE TWO MARKS ON THE SIGHT GLASS GOD , approves of this proceedure, !!!! Its the right thing to do ---

If-- the Emergency Flasher Switch is sitting " between " On and off, then Neither system is working. the Emergency Flasher switch MUST be in the OFF position to get voltage to the turn signal system. The Main, Flasher Unit, is located behing the Headlight assembly, Remove head light, and look in the area, UP, and just left of headlight center line. It the larger of 5 relays. there. Pull it out, remove plug, and clean the contacts. Might be dirty. Also, follow the Cable " From " the flasher unit, to a Plug, with 8 wires going thru it. ( not sure of color ) Voltage for the Signal system comes thru this plug, from the Emrg, Flasher switch. there might be a dirty connection in this plug. ( left field, but maby ) See page 7-41 block diagram, service manual. For further trouble shooting.

Some ( at least ) of the bikes had an extra, #12 or #10 lead From the Neg Bat. Stud going to a ground just to the right , and somewhat aft of the Battery. The idea is to make sure the " Fram " is as same ground Level, as the Engine. As the Engine Mounts are Rubber. Take a Resistance Reading from several points on the Engine block to several points on the Frame. Should be Zero ohms, ie: dead short.

Well, did a test run, to break in the New Pads. All working well, New fork seal not leaking. As to whineing noise, from what I always thought was the Transmision, well, not much changed, about the same. Put bike on center stand, spun rear wheel by hand, No Noise from the brakes scraping on the rotor. Conclusion: was it worth the trouble ? I guess so , if the Brake pads are now wearing normally as they should. ??? It did not seem right that the last set of pads had More Wear, on the Rear Caliper then the Front Calipers. I normally use the Front brakes much more then the Rear. Thats just how I drive. Anyway, next time you pull your rear wheel, Loosen the 4 nuts first, and check the gap, and go from there. Took me about 45 min. to make the Shim. No big deal.

Did you check the " MUTE " button on the left hande bar, Remote Control Unit ??

If the lead acid battery is old, there might be extra Internal Voltage drop inside the battery itself. Also, check out the Ignition Fuse, circuit. Maby some high resistance across the following components. 40 amp main fuse holder, Ignition On - Off switch contacts, the 15 amp fuse holder contacts, the Run-Stop Switch. Also there are pull apart plugs between all these components. Any excess resistance across any of these contacts, will add up in series, and Drop the Voltage to the Ignition Coil Primary windings. Low voltage to the Coils is not good.

If its working, you will hear stations, just monitor 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, for 15 or 20 min. If you hear nothing, its NOT working. There are truckers withing 10 miles talking. If anywhere near a big city. Open the panel, pull it out, check the Plugs, and Antenna connections. If the AM radio work, then the Antenna is most likley Ok. Check the plug on the bottom of the C/B unit itself, make sure its seated well into the Socket. The wire cable, has a plug about 4 inches from the unit. check all the wires in and out of the plug. On the left side of fairing, open the Radio Panel, and Make sure the Plug cable comeing to the Amplifier from the CB unit is properly installed. Plug might be loose.

If the Start Solinoid, has never been changed, thats highly reccomended. The main contacts inside the solinoid are probable pretty well Fried. Causing Increased Resistance in main Cable to the Starter. A good modification, is, IF, you replace cables, also replace the solinoid with a Small Car, Solinoid. Have to find a place to mount it, and modify the + Cable for the new installation. ( Stock solinoids are about $75 . car units much cheaper ) Also, Resolder the Studs on ends of Both Battery cables, if you do not replace them. Check out the Odyessy, PC -680 Batteries. Go the their Web site, and read up on the Specifications for their Dry Cell Batteries. Be sure you still have the Extra #12 ground Wire from the Neg Bat Cable to the Frame . Neg, post to a Frame Ground. Be sure Engine case, and Frame are at same Ground level. Pos. Stud on the Starter Motor might be corroded, from Road Wash. Clean up the stud, resolder the End of the cable there, and then Seal it up with Silastic. Find the Main Pull Apart Plugs, going " TO " and " From " the Rectifier/Regulator unit, Open , inspect, clean the Pins. These plugs are notorious for going bad, and any extra resistance thru the connections will cause a Voltage Drop. Clean the Neg Bat Cable connect point at the Engine case. A few places to start. I finally gave up, and Installed Two PC-680 Dry Cells, and two Start Solinoids in Parallel, and #4 cables, after doing all the other work. Now the darn thing works like it should. One touch on the Start Button and its running !! :mo money:But it cost a few bucks to do it.

The TCI, supplies the Ground, --- TO --- the Primary winding of the Coils, to Fire the Plug. This ground, is a short, Pulsed, ground signal. So , IF , all 4 coils are NOT fireing the plugs, then the Trouble has to be the TCI itself, OR, the Fireing Signal comeing from the Pickup Coils. Are you sure he checked the Pickup coiles properly ?? Also, the Plug enroute to the pickup coils has been a source of this very problem. Did he Check, the Cable from the 6 PIN TCI Plug, Every Inch of the way, down to the pick up coiles. There might be some Cable Damage. ( slight possibility ) Ignition fuse, IS NOT, blowing-- Correct ??? Do you have the Service Manual ?? If not print out page 7-25 thru 7-33 for your mechanic to work, from if he wants to take another shot at it. However it does sound like your TCI is fryed. ( sorry to have to say that. ) Start looking on E-Bay. They do turn up there, from time to time.

Ok, got it done, took me total of 3 hours, but then I'm getting old, and being retired I work slow, ----- And, the Wife is gone to Phoenix for a week. That helps Here is what I found. After Installing the .025 in Homemade shim. Reinstalling the Axel, it slipped right in with no noticable force. Previously, I had to rotate the axel to find the " sweet spot " before it would eaisly slide in fully. ( that was encourging ) ( Note: there never was a shim Installed on this bike, from the factory ) Second, while re-installing the Brake caliper, I took a close look at the brake pads. Now I rebuilt this caliper, about 12K miles back, so I'm pretty sure its working OK. But, I noticed that the Inner Pad, was Worn about Twice as much as the Outer Pad. The Pistons, moved IN, Eaisly, to make space for the new pads. They were New, 12K back. Yesterday I put all new pads up front, so I figured I might as well replace the rear also. Anyway, after reomveing the pads, I noticed, about 1/4 th wear on the outer, pad. And 1/2 wear of the Inner, pad. AND, the Inner Pad was Worn at an ---Angle, -----front to back. Which would indicate that the Brake Rotor, was not running True to the center line of the Bike. ??? Well, Maby--- Also, in the past, every time I re-Installed the rear wheel, and gave it a spin by hand, I have always noticed, some amount of scraping noise from the Caliper, dureing about 1/3 of the wheel rotation. I never though to much of it. By " noise ' I mean, Pads against the Rotor movement. So this evening I gave it several spins after re-installation completed. and No Scrapeing noise. The Wheel seems to be spinning more eaisly, by hand, on the center stand. Pads, not makeing contact, as wheel is spun 360 degrees. Will get a test ride in a few days, its Cold and Raining here all week. OH, bye the way, did I mention that its Raining In Seattle Today !!

Ok working on my 89 yesterday and today. General yearly Service of everything. Anyway, do to this thread, I decided to Loosen the 4 Nuts holding the Pumpkin to the drive shaft. as JerryK talks about at beginning of this thread. Took nuts off, Tap Tap with rubber mallet, the Gap opened up to .022 in. Just got back home with some shim material, and will get to work installing the Shim. My bike has always had some whine noticable below 30 MPH, when slowing down in quiet area's. Never, got better, or worse. Same now as when bike was new. So, will install shim and see what happens. Thanks for the Information Jerry !!

Not enough HP !!! Sort of a Fake, Pretend, Busa !! But nice for running around town.

I'm doing the maintenance checks yesterday, and today, and tomorrow for next years road trips !!! ( Wife went to PHX for a week, ) so, I can work in the garage with NO interruptions !!!! At least until Friday ---

Engine to small, lack of power. 595lb. bike, to heavy for a 650cc engine. Lack of power !!!!! Looks like no wind protection, to speak of ( Same problem I been fighting on my Busa ) ie. I'm down to fabricateing a Windshild that gives some wind protection. Have you ever ridden a bike at 70 MPH for a couple hours with no windshield?? Its cool for about 45 minutes. I walked away from 2 cylinder bikes a long time ago. Auto transmission-- Hmmm ? I can do without it. Its cool for running around town, but for 14K I can get a real bike, new. For, about 5K I can find a real good used, traveling bike, with twice the power. ( Used, Metric cruizers are a dime a dozen with under 10K on them ) However, if its your cup of Tea, and you got 14K to lay down, go for it. I can find any number of used " Busa's " for about 5 to 8K, and they got a REAL engine in them. ( ie; 175 HP, and only 495 lb. dry weight) My 2 Cents Worth-- for whatever its worth.

Sorry, I typed the link wrong. Try this--- http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et208.htm

Pull the TWO, Plugs from the TCI. Find the R/W wire, going into one of them. Turn Key ON, check for 12 Volts on the R/W wire. Each Coil, has a 2 wire Plug going to it. One of them is R/W -- Key on check for voltage on the R/W wire . WHEN YOU HAVE THIS PLUG DISCONNECTED, DO A RESISTANCE CHECK THRU THE IGNITION COIL PRIMARY WINDING. (( SEE PAGE 7-30 FOR THIS CHECK )), Primary winding should read---- 2.4 to 3.0 OHMS. They usually read about 3 to 3.5, but thats OK. Check voltage, on Both sides of the Ignition Fuse''' 15 Amp. WITH A VOLT METER. If you did it before, do it again. ( stupid was working on your bike and maby fried something ) See, page 7-133 of Service manual. See item #10 ( the RUN - STOP SWITCH ) Follow the Pig tail From the Switch to a pull apart connector, behind the headlight. Open the Plug. Do a Resistance check Thru the Run Stop Switch, IS IT SHORT WHEN SWITCH IN RUN POSITION, AND OPEN IN THE STOP POSITION. ie; if switch is bad, you have NO Voltage to the TCI, and to the Coils !!!!! BAD RUN STOP SWITCH'S ARE COMMON--. Spray down the Switch with CRC 2-26 electrical contact cleaner, that might fix it. ARE THERE ANY OTHER BLOWN FUSES??? CHECK THEM ALL WITH AND OHM METER. Check out the Circuit to the Side Stand Switch. -- If the Side Stand Switch is BAD, then the " Side Stand Switch RELAY " will not Pull !!! IF SO, then you do not get a Ground to the B/W wire goiing tothe 6 Pin Plug of the TCI. IF NO Ground to the B/W wire, the TCI WILL NOT WORK. !!!! On the 6 Pin TCI plug, there is a Black Wire, that goes to Ground. Make sure its getting a ground. You have an Emergency ROLL OVER SWITCH, its mounte, above the Instrument Panel. Find it. Foll the cable from it, and do Resistance Check of the Switch PER page 7-33 of the Service manual. If this Switch is BAD, it will keep the TCI from getting Voltage. There is a 5 Wire Cable Running FROM, the Pick up coiles located, under the Stator Cover. Follow it to the 6 Pin Plug of the TCI. ( Small wires wraped with black tape ) About 1/2 way to the TCI you will find a Pull Apart Plug-- Its located just about under your left knee as you sit on the Bike. OPEN the Plug, Clean it with Elecrical contact Cleaner, Re install the Plug and Do a Resistance check THRU each of the 5 Connectors. You must see Zero Ohms, or Dead Short Thru the Plug on all 5 connectore ( No AMOUNT OF RESISTANCE ABOVE ZERO OHME IS ACCEPTABLE ) ----Now follow the instructions, on page 7-31 of service, manual and Do a Resistance check Thru the Pick Up Coils. Open the above plug again, and measure the resistance as called on 7-31 ie: pickup Coil Resistance CAREFULLY CHECK THE 15 AMP IGNITION FUSE PRONGS, ARE THEY MAKING GOOD CONTACT TO THE FUSE??? Use a Volt meter, and measure the Voltage on each side of the fuse holder, wher the Wire is Soldered to the HOLDER''''WITHOUT PUTTING ANY PRESSURE ON THE PRONGS THAT HOLD THE FUSE. If you even Suspect the fuse holder is Squirely, the Raplace it with and IN-Line fuse for the Time being. If you do not have a Service Manual, its avialable for download, or viewing ON THIS WEBSITE If you don't have a good digital volt/ohm meter, you will need to get one. Let me know what you find, and we can go from there.

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/elect/et208.htm Same basic idea, for any item you want to add. Use Bosh Relays, they are the best. In line Fuse, and mount your New Switch for the New item. Switch controls the relay, and Relay controls the heavy current to the New device. Relay fed direct from battery, thru the new IN-Line Fuse. USE #16 wire. Stranded. Solder ALL new Spade connector, on wire ends, Use Rosin Core Solder. Use Heat Shrink Tubeing on all Connections. Don't forget Ty-Raps, to Secure all the New Wire Runs. Use red wire for Hot, and black for ground, to be able to figure things out in the future, when your new wireing fails -- sorry, I just could not resist that---