GeorgeS
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Everything posted by GeorgeS
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Weatherman just said maby 50 today. Radar shows clouds way out into the pacific, so appears lots of moisture comeing onto the West Coast over the next 2 or 3 days. Looks like the Mountain States will continue to get snow for several more days.
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Question: Whats the agreed upon best heated grip option for a 1st Gen. ??? Something I been meaning to do, seems like a good project for the next couple of weeks. What works best?
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Front wheel wobble
GeorgeS replied to Dragonslayer's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Deffinitions: --- Its not a matter of Adding Torque to the head bolt. Its a matter, of setting the Torque to the Correct Amount. -- Which may be set to to much torque, or not enough, ( ahemm, by the previous owner ) Springs: On a 1st Gen bike, if over 50K the Fork Springs need to be replaced . -- Period ---- Adding the aftermarket Fork Brace, will help, but not eliminate the problem. Ditto on the Rear Suspension comments here. Repack and Re-Torque the Swing arm. Also, the suspension connecting Arms to the Swing arm, Lubricate those bolts. One last comment, I know people who have gone DOWN, because of this on different motorcycles, over the years ---- This Situation can become Deadly-- Consider it a Serious matter -
Broken C.L.A.S.S. display
GeorgeS replied to 83VR3711's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
On the Front, if you Install " Progressive Suspension " Fork springs, and use 15 Wt. Fork Oil, you do not need any Air pressure. ( Its true ! ) ( this is a highly reccomended modification if the bike has over 50K on it. the stock springs are worn out ) -- Yes, they are------ On the Rear end, you can install an Air Fitting, and use a Hand Pump, with Gauge to fill pressurerize the shock. This is the same proceedure used on the 2nd Gen models. If you do this, do not use AIR Hose, at filling station, will blow the seals !!! ( I believe the fittings for an 83 or 84 or 85 can be used to make the modification) Not sure on this point, but sombody here should know the details. By completly removeing the Class system you save some weight, and gain the space on the Dash Board to mount something else. Several folks have made these mods to 1st gens. Check with them, sombody will chime in who has done this. I have been considering it myself. ( Front is done, but not the rear. ) -
38 deg. F this morning, and Rain!!! Melting the Snow fast --- I love it !!!!
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Did previous Owner, Add, Anything Electrical to the Bike ?? Horn, radio, running lights, wireing for GPS, Wireing for heated vest, wireing for heated hand grips, etc etc. (( Whatever He Added !! )) IF so, find the Fuse that should have been installed for the new equipment and REMOVE the Fuse, INSPECT EVERY INCH OF ANY ADDED WIREING !!!!! IF there IS NO added Fuse, then Disconnect the Added Accessory, and Re Wire it correctly, with a Fuse and a Relay. Now recheck for Excess Current Draw, or battery going dead.
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As a general rule of thumb, most ignition Switches take 12V In and distrubte the voltage to the Ignition System, and the Items that work in the Accessory Position of the Switch. I just looked at the Schematic for a 1st Gen Venture. There are NO " B " black wires shown going TO or From the Switch. If you have a Service Manual, check the Schematic for your bike. Look for any " B " wires hooking to the Switch unit, but I doubt there are any. IF-- Everything on the bike is working OK, at present, then don't worry about it. But you might consider makeing some kind of Metal Support, to re-mount the Switch if you intend to leave it where its mounted. Mounting that thing on Plastic is probably not the best of ideas. I'm thinking some kind of a metal backing Plate to strengthen the PVC plastic would be a good idea. Or, put it back were its supposed to be mounted.
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Just keeps comeing, and again today, and another Low Pressure area heading into the coast line.
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Snow, lousy weather everywhere, except Florida, Say, how you doing with bike repairs ??? got the problems all worked out ??
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Ok, I installed a set of NGK Iridium plugs 18,000 miles back. Replaced them last week, just because---Here is photo of what the old ones look like if anybody is interested. Bike was still running good on this set.
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Get a spray can of Electrical contact Cleaner, and open and clean EVERY, Electrical plug on the entire bike . And all the switches. Also apply dialectric Greese to al the male female pins in the plugs. The Yamaha Plug Pins Corrode. Pay special attention to the Plug From the Stator, going To the Rectifyer/Regulator unit. Its, a Famous Trouble Spot of the Electrical System. Check it for Burnt, Fryed Connectors. !!! Don't skip this one. Be sure to Re-Solder, both ends of both battery cables. Also, on the Clutch Actuation sytem, plan on Replaceing the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Most likly it full of CRUD. Rebuild kit about $15, and new one about $30. Eaiser to just get a new one. Also, you have the Inst panel out. be sure to lubricate the Speedometer Unit, This is another famous trouble point. Also, the Circuit board that has about 10 large diodes on it. ( not the LCD Board) as long as you have it out. Resolder all connections on that circuit board. ) Cold solder joints on this board, are known to cause " False " failure warnings, and blinking red warning light. As long as your Solinoid is toast, consider replaceing it with one from a CAR. Small forign car. Yamaha wants about $70 for them, and the Car ones only about $25, and they are much better quality. And carry more current. Sombody knows the details on this item. I am running Two Stock solinoids in parrallel. But plan to change to the Automotive unit soon. Its highly advisable to replace that JUNK Fuse holder with an ATM type fuse block. ( not a big deal, but lots of us have done that )
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Nothing like Success !!! ( did you use Never Sieze on the new plug threads ?? ) Now get some SEA-FOAM, in the Gas, run it two or three times a day for several days. I still reccomend Draining the Tank, if you have not done so as yet. After you are sure the fuel system is cleaned out, read up on the Carb Sync proceedure in Service Manual, Thats the next step in the process.
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http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/3116Stop_and_Go2 This is a VERY good tool kit for makeing road repairs to punctured tires. It works, I have tried it !! This, and an electric pump, will get you down the road, if you get a nail puncture. If battery is over 3 years old, replace it before you leave: ---- Do the 3 Phase AC Stator Voltage check ahead of time, make sure your stator is working good. Remove the Plug from your Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, and Clean the plug pins and apply Dialectric Greese. I always carry a spare headlight bulb, but you can get them at any autoparts store. Don't forget the Tire Pressure Gauge !!! check them often --- Carry a can of SEA-FOAM, and HEET, in case you get some watered down Gas !!!!! Take a couple of Spare " NEW " Spark Plugs. and tools to change them. I also, reccomend that you take out your Tool Kit, and go down to the Tool store, and Duplicate everything thats in the KIT, with HIGH QUALITY TOOLS !!! THE GOOD STUFF !!!!!!! Make up a set of Jumper Cables, useing #10 Stranded Wire. This way you can jump start if you need to from sombodies car . Be sure you know where ALL your fuse's are located, and carry spare's Hand operated, air pump for your Rear Shock !! Don't use hose at station, and blow your Shock Seal. Do you know about " Ride - On " ??? Tire Sealant ?? If not go to their web site and check it out. Good Stuff !!!!!!! Especially on Highway 50 going across Nevada Desert !!! Consider carrying at least one spare Ignition Coil--
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Give it a bath with WD-40, blow out with compressed air. Temp fix.
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Look up members of this group in your general area--- Set up a Barbecue, or somthing similiar in your back yard. Include some locally popular beverage !!! Invite the fellows over for the weekend, and ask them to bring all their spare parts. and tool boxes. You and the wife supply the food and drinks, and turn the fellows loose on your bikes, I'm sure they will come up with a fix !!!!! Hey!! its worth a try
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From-- the Forward, left side Carb Intake manifold, vaccume port: Follow the Small diameter rubber hose, it runs UP and Forward to the BARROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR. Its located forward of the Carb. ((( See: Page 7-31 Service Manual for the Barro Sensor ))) About half way, there should be a " T " connector and another small hose that runs up to the bottom of the Air Cleaner Box. Its hard to see, and harder to replace. Any Vaccume Leaks on this hose will cause running problems. ( might be part of the problem ) Also, check the Rubber Caps on the Other 3 Intake Manifolds, make sure they have the Rubber Caps in place. Again, vaccume leaks are bad. Might, be part of your problem --- ?? Be sure to Drain the Fuel Tank, just pull the hose Off at the Petcock, and install a piece of 1/4 I.D. rubber hose and drain into a container. When you get down to the " Reserve " level, Switch to a Glass Container, so you can see what comes out of the tank, for that last gallon. There is also, Screens, mounted Inside the Tank at the PetCock. These Screens might be plugged. You can drop out the Petcock assembly to clean them. If Real Dirty, it might be advisable to Remove the Fuel Quantiy Sender Unit. ( At top of Tank ) Now you have a 6 inch Diameter Hole to Inspect the Inside of the Tank. 15 AMP, Ignition Fuse, again, be sure to check the fuse holder, Give the Main Ignition Swith a bath with " Electrical Contact Cleaner ", and be sure to Clean the RUN-STOP Switch. One more item, that might help. disconnect Each Plug wire AT the Ignition Coils, and the Plug Caps. Nip Off, 1/4 inch of wire, and ReInstall the wires, ( they are solid core copper plug wires ) Might be some bad connections here. The wire SCREWS Into the Coils, and the Caps. Easy to do.
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Anti freez-- just drain at the bottom plug on the water pump, and put in 1 1/2 qt. anti freez and 1 1/2 qt of Distilled water. Good enough for the time being. For Oil, until you get it going, Drain, then just use a light wgt 5W- 20W cheap oil for the time being, and consider that a flush out, Use couple OZ. of Sea Foam in the Oil. Also, a dose of SEA-FOAM in the gas. After couple hours of running, replace the flush oil with good stuff. Did you get all the Vaccume Lines hooked back up ?? check the vac line from the left FWD Carb. up to the Barro Sensor, Is it Installed ??? Also, the Vaccume line that run to the bottom of the Air cleaner box. Have you Completly, Drained the Fuel tank, ??? Drain it at the petcock, there might be some water, and crude in the tank. This engine will not run, with the Air cleaner cover OFF. Even if everything is in perfect conditon, they run like crap with the air cleaner cover removed. As far as the Instrument Cluster being removed, thats a good question !! Looking at block diagram, I don't see anything that should effect the Ignition System. Check all other electrical plugs in the area behind the headlight, did you remove any other lugs ?? Double check there. Check the Electrical Resistance, THRU the RUN-STOP Switch, make sure that switch has ZERO ohm thu it when in the " run " position. they are know to go high resistance. Double check your 15 AMP, Ing Fuse holder, for makeing good contact with the Fuse. there is a 5 wire Plug, 1/2 way between the Pick-UP coils going to the TCI. Its located, just under your left Knee as you sit on the bike. They have been know to develop bad connections. Clean all the pins in that plug.
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Just heard on Weather Report, I-84 is still closed down from Portland, Ore. East all the way to " The Dales " Oregon. Super winds blowing thru the Columbia River Gourge. Drifts building up so high on I-84 the Oregon Highway Dept. can't deal with it. They Gave Up !! Worst snow in that area since 40 years ago. (( Maby even since Lewis + Clark went thru the area )) Announced I-84 is Closed Indeffinatly -- I never heard that before. However, During the Summer, I-84 is a Great Ride, From Portland East thru the Columbia River Gourge!! Great Ride, but not this month.
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Well after 3 days of Snow, and sitting in the house, and sending me to the Store. Wife just could not take it anymore, She Just had to go Shopping !!! Just got back from 6 hours of dropping her off at store after store, and sitting in the Warm Car, in parking lot reading magazines!!! An Entire Day!!! Wasted ---------- Did not get even one thing Fixed Today !!!
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Your supposed to leave the Car Out, and put the Bike in the Garage !!!! I thought everybody knew that
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Another Storm headed your way, went thru here last night. Sorry !!
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Whatever, I'm all for the Training course, whatever it costs. However, I strongly feel the Party, takeing the training, should pay for it, in Full. Its a one time deal. So I'm forking out $5 a year, to pay for other folks Training. At least here in Wa. This was the 3rd time, I paid the $25 bucks Oh well, things could get worse then this, and did this morning, the newspaper delivery guy, ran over the Street Light in front of my house. I just called 911 to report exposed electrical wireing on the sidewalk. Anybody want to take bets that this deal will cost me a few bucks before its over ! Hi HI. We called the power company, they said , not there concern, we should call the Street Department. We did, recording said call 911. I did ---- I told the nice lady that I was concerned about sombody comeing in contact with exposed wireing !!. She said they would send somebody right out. Now waiting to see how long that takes. -- Could be awhile, the city is buried under " 2 Inches " of Snow !!!
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Yes on the extra charge for MC endorsment, here in Washington. $25 to Renew the licence, and an extra $25 to keep the MC endorsment. I asked why, the nice lady said it was to support State MC the driver training course. Well, thats OK, but I feel the folks takeing the course, should pay the cost themselves. Oh well, I guess its a small price to pay, to be able to ride. I guess its cheaper then hunting licence's.
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Just re-newed my licence 2 weeks ago. Item of note: The Old licence, Endorsment says. " All Motorcycles " The New licence, Endorsment says. " All 2 wheel Motorcycles " So, I guess this means if I add a SideCar, or get a 3 wheel rig, I have to get Re-Licenced --- Hmmmm ???? I will have to look into this, just out of curiosity.
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After Removeing the Houseing from the bike ( not hard to do ) its very easy to open the houseing ( split it ). there are only about 6 screws, and the thing splits open. I had mine open last week to re - solder the circuit board. Not a big deal. Also, replace ALL the Light Bulbs, as long as you have it opened up. Just work slow, you should not have any problem completing the job.