GeorgeS

Hmmm ?? can't read the numbers. Yes, thats a lot more info then I am looking for. All I'm really looking for, is the Average in RPM range, at Average Driveing speeds, on Average roads. I guess that would be about 55 to 60 MPH in the U.S. Excluding runs on 70MPH Freeways. For hours of in City driveing, that would be lowered to lets say 35 to 40 mph. And the average STATOR output would be lowered also-- Why?? RPM, does effect the " Amperage Output " of the Alternator. The Chart in 1st Gen manual, Specifications Section, shows the following Outputs. 30 Amps --- 4000 rpm 27.5 Amps-- 3500 rpm 25.0 Amps --2500 rpm 22.0 Amps --2000 rpm ( all with fudge factor for reading the chart ) So, due to the Higher Gearing of the 2nd Gens, I am trying to figure out if there is a difference in " Average Amps output " for 2nd gens, over 1st gens, " AT Average Driveing Speeds" ( because 2nd gens run at lower RPM, due to gearing ) Why?? Most folks when talking about this subject, usually quote, the 30 Amp figure. But obviously Nobody, is Averaging an Engine RPM of 4000. So , nobody is getting the 30 Amps, unless running on a 70mph + Freeway at all times, nobody does that. Off the top of my head, I will estimate its about 3000 to 3200, rpm for 5th gear, on the average road, most of the time. ( 2nd gen, in 5th gear ) So, that would give an average Alternator output of about 27.5 amps. ( from the 1st gen chart ) OK, I'm open for suggestions, and corrections. Whats your Average , Cruzeing RPM on your 2nd gen bike, when NOT on a 70 MPH Freeway all day. ??? If 8 or 10 riders chime in here, I can Average the answers, and apply them to the Chart. With this information, I can make a good estimate of How Much Extra Electrical DRAW can be Added to the system, and Still Charge the Battery. I hope this makes sence -- Anyway, got nothing else to do today. Last nite I did, --- " Current Draw " --- Tests on my 89 to determine Total Current Draw, as I will be adding " HOT Grips " this week, and want to know exactly whats happening with them working, plus a heated vest, plus 2, 35 Watt Driveing lights. Basic readings indicate:--- Key On, Engine OFF, Radio and CB ON-- All Lights, OFF--Fuse's Removed --- 1.66 Amps All OEM lights ON, Low Beam, ---- 8.50 Amps Switch to High Beam--------------- 8.92 Amps Low beam, Plus 2 each 35 W Driveing lts --- 15.01 Amps Switch to Hi Beam, plus driveing lts-------- 15.33 Amps Activate Brake lite Bulbs, 2 each------------18.91 Amps --------------------------- Ok with Low Beam, and driveing lights, ON -Draw is 15.01 amps. ( 35W units 2 ea. ) Add, Hot Grips at Full Hot setting--- -------- 3.00 Amps. ( estimate ) Add, for Heated Vest, at Full Hot setting ----- 3.00 Amps ( estimate ) Add average Audio Amp Current Draw -------- 2.50 Amps. ( est. max 5A Manual ) ----------------- Total Draw 23.5 Amps Point: IF I change my Driveing lights to 55 Watt Bulb Units, 2 each. This would add an Estimated Draw of 3.7 Amps over the 6.09 for 35 W units 23.5 A , plus 3.7 A = 27.2 Amps--- So, Conclusioin, this would put me right at MAX Draw for an Engine RPM of about 3200 RPM. --- THERE IS NOTHING LEFT FOR BATTERY CHARGING !!! ---- ( below 60 MPH ) Also, there will be some current consumed inside the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, as I did the testing with Engine OFF, that amount was not measured. I would assume its at least 1 Amp. Maby 2, as the Item does have HEAT Dissipation Fins on it, and they were put there for a reason. !! ( Any comments on that ?? ) So, make the total 28.2 Amps With 55 W Driveing lights, and 2 items of heated clothing, and the Radio Blareing from the Speakers. --- NOT GOOD --- CONCLUSION: If you need the Heated Clothing -- ON --- Turn the Driveing lights OFF OR-- Use 35 W driveing lights, and run the Vest, Hot Grips, and Chaps, at 1/2 Setting, or Low setting. And turn the Radio, and CB OFF. Turn Cruz Control OFF, Add a Switch to ALL your EXTRA LIGHTING, to Turn OFF, if heated clothing is Used. OK, I'm open to comments, and Corrections, and anything I missed, but I think most of my numbers are " In the Ball Park " as they say. One more comment. IF the 2nd Gens Average a LOWER RPM, at average Speeds, then you have even LESS Current to Play with. As Alternator Output drops with Engine RPM. OK, hit me with your best Shot !!! I'm all ears ---

Daddy gave me a 20 ga. shotgun and a .22 Rifle. I skipped the BB gun alltogether. I bought my first Harley at 15 ( only a 45 C.Inch, but what the hay ) I went 85 MPH. pretty good for back in those days.

Can anybody give me the Engine RPM in gears at speeds of the 06 07 and 08 models. As on the newer models, 4th and 5th gears are overdrive. I'm interested, in Rpm at say 55, 65, and 70 mph, running in 4th and 5th gear. I understand that the ratios were changed in I believe 03 or 04, so those bikes would be turning lower RPM's on average at normal highway cruzing speeds. My 89 is usually turning about 3800 rpm in 5th, at 65 mph. I'm wondering how this compares to an 07 or 08. Why ? Engine RPM effects the Amperage output of the Stator. I'm trying to figure out just what the reduction in STATOR output amperage, is on the new bikes verse the old bikes, due to the Lowered Gear Ratios. ?? Thanks, any info appreciated !

1. Two 55 Watt Running Lights = 110 Watts, = 8.66 Amps current draw ( P= IxE) ------- Watts = Current x Voltage ------- Current = Watts / Voltage I = P/E 110 Watts / 12.2 Volts = 9 Amps Draw 2. Heated Gloves 1.8 Amp Draw 3. Heated Vest 3.0 Amp Draw 4. Heated Chaps 2.8 Amp Draw ---------------------------------- --------Total 7.6 Amp total extra Draw. ( for clothing ) ( Based on current draw from heated clothing mfg. web site ) Ok, your total--- "" Extra ""--- Current draw on your charging system is " about " 16 Amps --( clothing, and running lights ) -- depending on the settings of the heated clothing. (with 2, extra 55 Watt driveing lights) --- So, If you were driveing at an average Engine RPM of about, 2500 RPM ( see spec section for Alternator output ) Then your charging system was putting out about an average of 25 Amps. ( Your Alternator only puts out Full 30 Amps, at 4000 RPM, ie. about 70 MPH ) About 16 amps of this was being used by your Added Accessories. --- Now add to this any extra light bulbs you may have added --- You had about 9 amps left for ALL of the OEM Equipment Installed on the bike. So, add about 16 Amps to whatever the Normal Current draw would be on this bike, With ---NO ADDED ACCESSORIES -- Whats that number? I don't know, but I will assume its About 18 to 20 Amps --- So if you add, 16 Amps of current draw, 20 Plus 16, you have 36 Amps, and if you were drivein at an average of 2500 RPM, then you were OVERLOADING THE SYSTEM !! Sorry, but Thats OHMs LAW, and it applies to everybody !!! Democrats, and Republicans, and whoever else you can think of. ( Even an Electrical Genius Like me, can't get around that one !!!! I know, I tried, and it don't work !! ) Try turning OFF the Running lights, when you need to use all of the Heated Clothing. OR--- UPGRADE the STATOR, and Install " TWO " Odyessy, Dry Cell Batteries in Parrallel, Thats what I did-- ---It works. ---I can go for about 4 hours with Everything turned on-- ( Extra lights, and heated clothing, extra tail lights, Ham Radio Gear, CB, and whatever else I can turn on at the same time. ) At 65 to 70 MPH highway cruzeing speed. ( But, not jogging around town at 30 MPH to 40 MPH ) And even if Both of the Odyessy ( dry cell ) Batteries are Down by 20 to 30 percent after 4 to 5 hours of running time in a OVERLOADED CONDITION, I can park the bike, and next morning it will start just fine !!! WHY?? Cause the Odyessy Batteries put out 3 times the Cranking Amps of any Lead Acid Battery. So I still have Twice the Cranking Amps avialable as a Fully Charged, NEW, LEAD ACID BATTERY !!!!! P.S. My numbers may be OFF a little, but they are ball park figures, and close enough for this discussion. So please don't anybody come up with any minor math corrections here !!

If we Assume, Every part of your Charging system, is working properly, AND, your battery is in Very Good Condition. ( if it over 3 years old , its not ) You can now Fully charge the Battery, and drive down the road with the OEM Equipment that was Installed by the Factory, and everything should be just fine !! IF --- You add ---- Heated Gloves, Pants, Jacket, and Two 55 Watt Running lights, and a GAGLE of extra tail lights, and anyghing else you might have added to the bike, then you are Over loading the System . Result---- If your TOTAL Current Draw Exceeds, the Ouput Capacity of your Alternator, and Rectier/Regulator system, THE BATTERY WILL SLOWLY GO DEAD. I would estimate you would have 5 to 10 hours of driveing time. If you leave with a fully charged battery ( at cruzing speed ) Total up the combined Current Draw, of ALL the added accessories that you have added. Now add this to the current draw of the OEM Equipment. Are you Exceeding the Capacity of your charging system ?? --------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, I'm looking at page 8-16 of my 1st Gen Service Manual. Specifications section : ( 1st gen Venture, 2nd gen may be different ) A.C. Generator: Nominal Output = 14V at 30 Amps, at 5,000 RPM -------------------------------------------- 25 Amps, at 2,500 RPM -------------------------------------------- 20 Amps, at 1,800 RPM -------------------------------------------- 10 Amps, at 0,900 RPM Note: !!!!! here that your average engine speed will have an effect as to the actual charging rate, as you drive down the road, { unless your going 70 MPH its not running at the full 30 AMP Rate } -------------------------------------------------------------------------- One more thing that can be done. Add an " AMP Meter " between the 40 Amp Main Fuse, and the Battery Positive Terminal-- Now you can monitor wether the Battery is being " Charged " or " Discharged" as you drive down the road. ( this is not debatable ) (( Its OHMS LAW )) --------------------------------- IF you Draw MORE Current from the Battery then the Charging sysetm is produceing then your battery will slowly discharge, as you drive down the road. And the Driveing Speed will effect the rate: -------------------------- IF you draw more then 30 AMPS total, the battery will slowly go dead. ( this is not debatable ) Ohms Law, works the same for everybody--

The little Drain Pipe on my radiator also came loose, Two Applications of J/B weld did the fix, and its still holding after 5 years.

The 47 Harley that I owned back in 1958 thru 1961 had a tire on it when I bought it that was basicly shaped just like a Car Tire, front and rear. At the time I bought a tire from Sears and Roebuck ( motorcycle tire) that was shaped more like current day bike tires. Would be interesting to check suppliers of tires for Restoreing OLD bikes, and take a look at what was being used before around the years of 1953 on U.S. made motorcycles.

See the Second page of the Main Detailed wireing diagram in Service Manual. The Front Switch and Rear Switch wireing both end up at Point " L " and " M " on the Maine Page of the diagram. When either switch is in the " ON " position, the Same two bulbs are burning, so the Current Draw on the Circuit is the same. --- SO --- From what you are saying, there is some problem in the Rear Brake Switch itself. Or the wireing from the Switch to Point " L " or " M " on the Maine page of the diagram. What you are describeing is deffinatly not normal. Some --- of the 1st gen models ( XVZ1300DU---, DUC---, UC ---, U --- ) also have Ignition Noise Filters between the brake switches and Point " L " and " M " The XVZ1300DS/ and XVZ1300DSC Models, do NOT have the Noise Filters Installed between the Brake Light Switches ( both of them ) and Point " L " and " M " on the main page of main detailed diagram. My Service Manual, says ZVX 13 D (S-A) on the Front cover, I just looked thru the manual, and cannot find the Location of these TWO extra Noise filters. ( but schematic in the front Supplementary Section {for DU/ DUC/ and UC models. shows the filters } so determine which model you have ) So If your bike does have them installed, I cannot find the exact location, of the filters. Follow the Wireing Harness from the Rear Switch. I would assume that they would be located somplace behind the Headlight Assembly, if they are installed. ------------------------ So whats my point to all of the Above ??? If ------- your bike has them installed, the the Noise Filter between the REAR Brake Switch and Point " L " and " M " --- MIGHT --- be bad, and causeing Excessive Current Draw. Pure Speculation on my part, but I never meet an Electronic Component that I trusted-- they can all Fail. Confused-- I understand Have a Beer and start over ---

This web address , courtesy of " Motorcycle consumer News " whoever that is. Has a long boreing 5 or 6 page article on " MotorCycle Battery Maintenance " ( I know everybody is interested in that subject ) Maby more information then the average guy even Wants To Know about the care and feeding of your Motorcycle Battery. But , if your interested, its a good read. http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/battery.htm It has a good rundown on the use of a " Hydrometer " to test each Cell. !!!

If this unit charges at a 2 amp rate, then its a Charger !!! On the photo U show, front says " Charger " Thats what you have. When I refer to " Trickle" charger, Most of these units put out very low current. And cut Off when Battery voltage hits about 12.2 volts. However the " Specific Gravity " of the Acid/water solution may still only be at about 1/4 of fully charged. 2 AMP rate, should fully charge a motorcycle battery in about 8 to 10 hours, assumeing its almost dead. OK How do you know a Battery --- IS --- Actually fully charged ( lead acid battery that is ) By monitoring the Current Draw on the Charger, for the Automatic Units. When the current draw gets down to about 1/4 Amp, its better then 90 percent charged. Buy a Charger, with an AMP METER ON IT !!!!!! The Second method for testing and best Method, but a bit messy, is to use a Hydrometer. You can order a Small Hydrometer for Motorcycle batteries at most any Auto Parts stores. Nobody Stocks them!! but they can order them. Cost about $5.00, and a good investment. Charge for 8 hours at 2 amp rate, then check each cell with Hydrometer, if all 6 Cells are showing good Specific Gravity, your battery is Good. If even one Cell is Low on Specific Gravity, you might as well go shopping. As to any Unit that says " Trickle Charger" on it, thats what you have a unit that will maintain the battery at its current state, bye " trickling " a little bit of current into it. They are for " Storage Periods " !!!!! They are not for charging up a Dead Battery !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There might be some exceptions. But Darn it folks, Buy yourself a Good Battery Charger if you are going to Ride a Motorcycle !!! Its money Well Spent. And get a Hydrometer also !! --- http://www.atvpartsstore.com/atv_battery_hydrometer.html# ( example ) Funny, I have never heard anybody on this web site, Mention " Hydrometer " ???

You can Loosen the Rubber Boot over the U-Joint, push it back out of the way, and stick some long tool in there to position the U-Joint. You might need a helper. I had the boot pulled once, and you can see the Joint. I have not had to do this proceedure, but it should work. Only problem is getting the Spring Around the Rubber Joint is not very easy either.

How old is this battery ?? What type of battery is it?? (lead Acid ) Was it " Fully " charged when you started this test. Have you been useing a Trickle Charger, and thinking that that Trickle charger would " FULLY " charge the battery ??? -- ----------- IT WILL NOT FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY -- It will cut of at a specificed voltage. This does not mean the battery is Fully Charged !!! I know everybody does not agree with me on that point, however I did work in an Aircraft Battery Overhaul Shop, for 6 months for a commercial Airline. I do know a bit about battery charging. If you don't have a 2-6 Amp Automobile Battery Charger, get one, recharge your battery, and run your test ride again !! If it still goes dead, you need a New Battery, I'm going to guess your battery is OVER 3 years Old. ( IF so, time to replace, sorry ) Point!! A Trickle Charger, is for Keeping a " FULLY CHARGED " battery at that State of charge, During Storage, AFTER ITS BEEN FULLY CHARGED !!!!

Have you Inspected the Plug at the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. Pull it out and carefully inspect the condition of the Pins, for corrosion, and any sign of overheating of the pins.

Whats the highest Milage anyone who is running a CT has gotten on the rear, or reported on this web site? Just wondering

Ditto !! on that. Being originally from that great state, I'm forced to make a couple of comments, and additions. ( Spent 32 years of my life there ) I have a book, titled, " How To Speak Minnesotan " A visitor's Guide. By, Howard Mohr, Creator of Minnesota Language Systems. I dig it out about once a year to help me remember all those growing up years. This book may make you laugh, or it might make you mad. ?? Why did I leave ?? good question. I just could not take another winter of 20 to 30 below !! Sorry, I just had enough. And yes, the Rain here in Seattle, and the clouds get pretty depressing at times, But!! Sorry, its better then -30F. !!!!!!! I do miss that fantastic Corn Feed Beef though !!!!!!!!!! I used to raise the stuff, Darn Its Good Meat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Round Steak, you can cut with your fork !!!!! And the SWEET CORN, PICKED UP AT THE GREEN GIANT PLANT !!!!!! Fresh picked from the field ---------- Nothing in the world as good---- Dad used to grow the stuff for the Green Giant Ahhh memories -- But I get to laugh my rear off here in Seattle, when 2 inchs of snow brings the entire city to a stand still --- I know its hard for Minn. folks to understand what 2 inches of snow can do to a West Coast City, Its a Riot !!!!!

Well I might stop bye, been meaning to make a run out to the NW Corner one of these days.

Ok, order is in, ( Hot Grips ) will see how it goes. I need new set of grips anyway. Most reviews I found on this product seem favoriable.

Been shopping all the different brands of heated grips, looks like the " Hot Grips " is pretty good quality. As to Part Number, looks like the # 575-875 is the correct. 7/8 bars, and 5 3/4 length. Has anybody mounted these on a first Gen ?? If so, any comments ?? I'm all ears today---

Thanks much for that link !!! Great site, looks like they have just about Every LED Replacemet for Standard Auto Bulbs -- I'm going to try to find an LED replacement for the Instrument Panel also.

Well I have the two 2357LL, and the Bright , reflective, backing, and frankly I'm pretty happy with the result. About $2 apiece for the bulbs. http://signaldynamics.com/products/bulbs/1157.asp Also there are these LED replacements for the 1157's in the tail light. but they are expensive.

Use a Relay, for Any added accessory. !!! ( consider that a Rule of Thumb ) Also, wire up One of the Two Tail light bulbs to a different Circuit, with Seperate fuse. If the " Tail Light " fuse blows, for any reason, you still have at least one tail light burning.

Well there has to be something wrong with the Tool. What tool are you useing ?? If the engine is running, there is vaccume--

Hmmm? Blue lights--- Thats Illegal in Washington State--- Police bikes only !! Really --

Did you do that?? How did it work, ??

All functions are internal inside the Existing Flasher Unit. As to changing the Turn signals to LED to Save power, remember, the flashers are on for a Very small amount of time. There is really no reason to change the flasher bulbs to LED, for energy saveings if that is what your plan is. Better to spend you effort on the Tail lights and front running lights to save energy. Or spend the money on the Odyessy PC-680 Dry Cell Battery. Money better spent. My 2 cents worth on the subject. Also, on the tail light assembly, note that the back plate under the Red Cover is painted with a dull silver gray paint. I just installed, a piece of Tin Foil , to give a more reflective surface. It does appear to make some difference. I'm looking for something better though for this mod. It does seem to help. Also, the 2357LL bulb is a bit higher wattage ( 28.5W/ 8.3 W ) Instead of a standare 1157 for Tail/brake and Front marker/blinker. Also, I just made a modification to my Rear Amber Blinkers, Took out the stock 1057, and installed Modified 2357LL. I put a solder bridge across the two contact points on the new bulb, and ground off one of the Pins. With this Modification , both of the " Filaments " work for the Amber Flasher on the Rear. ( just finished this mod 30 min. ago, anyway going to give it a try )