GeorgeS
-
Posts
3,137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by GeorgeS
-
I was not aware that the Oregon Company had been resold to the fellow in Brittian. !!! I guess thats as it should be. A few years back there was much more information on the Oregon Companies Web site as to how these bikes were being built . It was very impressive. The main item of note is that the Frame is totally modern construction. And the Engine is not just a copy of the old British Engines. They are totally up to modern Standards. As I recall the HP output for this 2 cylinder engine is Very Impressive. Its not a Busa !!! but still Impressive. And it will run at HIGH RPM, without Self Destructing as did the Old Engines from Brittian. Remember, IF, you want HP !!!! you can get a new Busa ( or other Metric ) for about 12K, with 175 HP out of the box. But, its not a Britt Bike. I would love to have one of the New Nortons !!! But 18 to 20K -- Ouch !!! I only paid 7K for my Used Busa, and only had 3,000 miles on it, back in 2002. I doubt I will ever part with this bike-- ---- Rideing that bike is beyond description !!!! At least for those of us who grew up before the SuperBike age. Rideing the thing , for those whose Reference point is the 50's 60's and 70's. Imagine, Zero to 60 in 2.6 Seconds, 136 mph, Red Line in 2nd gear !!! Its way beyond my abilities, but DARN, its a Blast to ride the thing. ( I use a VERY light hand on the Throttle ) I don't think Ive ever used more then 20 percent of the throttle. So the New Norton is not in that class, but its a darn fast 2 cylinder bike. To bad the Britts did not figure it out back in the 60's. Would have been a different story !!
-
I basket no good!!!!!
GeorgeS replied to Silver Bullet's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Might be worth trying. Has anybody considered that it might be some other part of the motorcycle thats vibrating, hitting a Resonant Point. I'm thinking some other piece of metal, or somthing, a bracket, heat shield etc etc etc. Sometimes a piece of metal that is Resonant, to a Vibration can get real loud. I don't have a 2nd gen, but if I did, and was experiencing the noise I would check into that. Maby some loose nuts or bolts that the factory is not getting tight ?? This is just speculation, but--- Anybody up to checking into that angle ?? -
It always a good idea, be able to turn OFF, any added accessories. If you start haveing trouble on the road, like battery going bad, Regulator failing, you want to be able to Turn OFF as much added electrical draw on the system as possible. Hopefully you can make it to a repair place before the battery goes dead.
-
The company fabricates the entire bike, frame, and engine. It looks similar to the original. Engine cases. are 1/2 in thick material, instead of 1/4. They build then entire Engine's In-House --- Main bearings are twice the size of the old brit bikes. Carbon Fiber wheel, Olins shockes, etc etc About 8 years ago, when I first stumbled onto their web site, the price, was 18K up front and they would build it.
-
I think thats someplace over in Europe. Not sure but I think its Finland. The first section is on an Aircraft Runnway.
-
http://www.nortonmortorcycles.com/bike/bike_961specs.asp Got 20K to drop, feast your eyes on this baby !!! What Brittish bikes should have been, but never were.
-
I think I remember something about the New Start Up company this time is going to keep production very low. And mostly just build bikes " To Order " If sombody wants to order one, they will build it. There was a company down in Oregon about 10 years ago building a Modern Reproduction of the Old " Norton Commando " A modern reproduction. But they would only build the bike if you put the Money Up Front. As I recall it was about 18K. But it was a Very High Quality machine. They were building the Engines from Scratch. Looked like the original, but Extreme High Quality. I believe it was 850 CC, and made about 85 HP. Total weight of the bike was only around 350 Lb. I would love to have one of those!!! Not sure if they are still in business. But if your a Brittish bike fan, and have the money to spend !!!!!!!! http://www.nortonmotorcycles.com/ They build the Engines In House, Modern suspension, and brakes. Nothing but the best components, but they are not cheap.
-
There are a large Groupe of So Called Experts, that don't buy the Global Warming Crap. Its just that the Drive Bye Media, won't let them get any Air Time !!! I think thats called " Sensorship "
-
Have you removed the bags, and checked for rubber on any parts. Or any loose bolts, on the bag mounts, Anything Bent ??? shine a light up at the inside of rear fender, if the tire is contacting the Inside of the fender, you should be able to see some evidence of this. Did you examing the tire for any sign of Scrapping??
-
Well I rode from Sacremento, to Redding Calif. last August, it was 113 F ---- It was not much fun !! Not sure if I preferred that, or the 38 F ride I took yesterday. ( this ride was just a short 1 hour to test my new HOT Grips, and Elect Vest, They work good )
-
Put a Single Pole, Single Throw, Switch, between the Fuse, and the Relay. Turn, Key On, now you have power to the switch, But not to the Relay control Winding unless you turn your " Drive Light Switch " ON. Key Off, lights go Off, not mater what position the New switch is in. The Above Schematic is Correct. When Headlight is ON, power goes to New Switch. You turn Switch ON, now there is power to the Relay Coil. Relay contact move to the Closed position, Now power from Battery Goes to the New Lights. Key OFF, Lights go OFF, not matter what position the New Switch is in. Trust us, we are Electricians !!!
-
Well I have a Dunlop front. thats over 5 years, had it on my tire rack, and It has No Cracks or anything that looks like that. Does that mean anything ?? I don't know-- Maby the Temp and humidity conditions down in Redding, Verses' the Cool Damp weather up here in Seattle. But as to Metzlers, just to many reports of Blow Outs--- I'm staying with the top of the line Dunlops, never had a problem with them. I have also run a lot of Continental tires, never a problem with those either.
-
Must have been a flock, and each engine got more then one. I have pull Bird left overs out of engines more then once. But never more then one, and nothing that big. One came into Seattle one night with a mallard duck in the Intake Fans. But apparently the crew never knew about it. We did have a plane come into Seattle one day, a Canadian Goose had gone right thru the Radome, fiberglass nose of a 757. About a 15 inch diameter hole in the radome fiberglass, and totally destroyed the Radar Antenna. This particular goose strike I remember Vividly, because it happend at around 24,000 feet SEA to Anchorage flight, about over Vancouver B.C. I remember the guys at work, were quite amazed the Goose could fly that high. But the Flight report was very Specific. And we pull out the pieces, and it was a Canada Goose. !! Oh Well---
-
cm400t ???
-
???? I guess I don't get it---
-
OK, checking Stebel website. Under the Automobile heading, looks like the Stebel Model, TM 80/2 is what I bought. As packaged under the U.S. supplier named, CARRAND HORNS. Two Units, high tone, and low tone.
-
I learned how to fix Ymaha rear end whine
GeorgeS replied to JerryK's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Between the Rear end of the Drive Shaft houseing, and the Pumpkin Assembly. After you make the Shim, you will have to Remove the Pumpkin, to install the shim. -
Most of the time, its the Venture. On those days, that I'm feeling Lucky !! I take the "" Death Machine ""
-
I could get TWO good used Harley's for what they are asking !! Maby 3 !!!! OR, Two New Cars---
-
When you find the two plugs, take close up photos with your digital Camera !! Post the photos. Zero in on the Burnt Pins !!!
-
Carb rebuilding time?
GeorgeS replied to a1bummer's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Have they ever been Replaced ??? If not, they need to be replaced !! 24 year old rubber, is Rotten !!! Check the " Tamper Proof " screws, one on each Diaphram cover, If they are still there, you need new diaphrams !! In addition, to new float valves. -
Its a Single unit-- Inside is 2 Sections--- Rectifyer section, and the Regulator section. It either works , or it don't work. If you are haveing problems, the first thing to check is the TWO Plugs, one going " TO " the Unit. and the other comeing " From " the unit. These two plugs are notorious for haveing Burnt Up Pins !!!! Find the Unit, and follow the TWO cables that go it. You will come to the Two Plugs, Open and Inspect them. Let us know what you find. ???
-
I learned how to fix Ymaha rear end whine
GeorgeS replied to JerryK's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Easy: !! Just Lossen !! ( not remove ) the 4 Nuts that hold the Pumpkin to the Rear End of the Drive Shaft Houseing. Now, use a rubber mallet, and tap tap tap, on the pumpkin Assemble. (( Do Not Lossen the Axel Nut on the right side, leave it Torqued to Spec )) Not watch the Gap open up between Rear end of Shaft houseing, and the Pumpkin. Now Measure the Gap, and then remove the Axel, and wheel, and Pumpkin Assembly, to install the Shim that you will fabricate. Takes a couple hours of work, but not hard to do. You have to make the Shim, as far as I know, Yamaha does not supply a shim. -
'86 RSV Driving Lights
GeorgeS replied to mechanic1's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Upgrade #1, Replace your " Lead Acid " Battery, ( whatever brand ) with the Odyessy, AGM, type technology, Dry Cell. Its a Deep Cycle type, and puts out 3 time the Cranking Amps. ( I am useing Two of these on my 89 ) (( OR, a Gell Cell )) Upgrade #2, Replace your Stator with the Electrix, type unit, or the one from Buckeye Performance. ( Buckeye claims about 40 to 45 Amp Output ) Upgrade #3, Replace your Two, tail light bulbs ( just the tail section ) And the forward Running lights with LED type bulbs. This requires some rewireing !! --- ( these 4 OEM Stock bulbs, ( 1/2 of the 1157 stock bulb ) pull about 2.25 Amps, total. Led replacements for all 4 would drop the current draw, to about 0.5 Amps ) About 1.5 amp saveings in constant current draw. Also, any other Tail lights you might have installed, replace the bulbs with LED. I don't consider, changing Brake lights, OR Signal lights to LED to be any saveing in current draw, cause they are "" ON "" for such short amount of time. Thats my story, and I'm sticking to it!! and ITS NOT Raining in SEATTLE Today, and the Sun is Shinning, and the Roads are DRY, Guess what I'm going to do right now !!!!! -
As to the Air Intakes on each Fairing. I have never used it. I just leave the Deflectors closed. Also, the tubes that feed Air flow to the Dash Panel, I pulled them out 5 years ago, just take up good space that can be used for wireing and access. They went into the trash can. To install the Horns. --- I just removed the Intake louvers on each side, Lay the Horn Units , Horizontal and slide them. I left an extra 8 inches of wire, to slide them in place. Its a tight fit, but they will go in. If you have some old Fiam Car Horns laying around, use that to check the fit. The center mounting 1/4 inch bolt, of the Horn, does impact the upper surface of the intake chamber, I just cut a notch in it. Its soft material. So the bolt would clear. I mounted the New RElay, Behind the Headlight assembly. Uses existing Horn wireing to control the relay. Install New 15 Amp In-Line Fuse holder, from the Feed side of the fuse block assembly. You need all new #16 or #14 stranded wire, to feed the Relay, and then from the Relay to the horn units. Install the Studs, crimp, and solder them. and apply heat shrink tubeing.