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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Last month I pulled my rear caliper. found the Inner pad worn at an angle. ?? Now that I have been paying attention to this, I hear about several others reporting this condition. Interesting ??? When I first found this condx. I was doing the check for clearance between the Rear hub ( ie. Pumpkin ) and the end of drive shaft houseing. ie. lossen the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin in place, with the Main Axel Nut, still tight ---and measure the gap. I found 0.022 space on mine and made a Shim and installed. When reinstalling the Caliper, I found the Inner Pad worn about twice as much as the outer, and it was worn severly at an angle. OK, Question: ???? Will installing the shim, cure the angled wear problem ?? Well, I guess in about 10K, I will know the answer. Hmmmm
  2. GeorgeS
    I would just throw in a new set of pads, and see what happens. Easy to do, takes about 15 min. Less time then driveing to the dealer and haveing a discussion with them.
  3. GeorgeS
    No comment
  4. GeorgeS
    Order a new Ignition Switch !!! Known Problem ---
  5. GeorgeS
    Yes, greese speedo, and Replace all the Panel Bulbs, And pull All the plugs apart behind the headlight, and off the Relays, and spray them down with CRC 2-26, If you have not allready done so.
  6. GeorgeS
    Keep the RPM's on the High side !!! These engines like to Spin up !!!! Don't lug down the engine, down shift when in doubt !!
  7. GeorgeS
    Each Carb, has a Drain hose from the Carb Bowl. There is a #2 Phillips head Screw to open the Drain. One on each carb. Open the Drains One at a time, then turn Key to ON. The pump should run and pump fuel thru the bowl, and Drain out the small hose. Do them one at a time. Make sure you get steady stream of fuel from all 4 Carbs. Do this every day for seveal days, with Sea-Foam in the Tank. At least 1/2 can of sea foam per tank, Give the stuff some time to clean out the carbs. Also get as much engine run time on it every day as you can manage. You might also need to put in a Fresh Set of Spark Plugs. ( You need to do this sooner or later, best to learn the drill now, instead of out on the road someplace )
  8. GeorgeS
    Right side, forward corner, end of crankshaft. Thats the water pump. Larg plug on bottom,of pump hoseing. I think its a 17 or 19 MM plug. Just remove, and all the A/freez will drain out. The book says to open another valve on front of engine, but I don't mess with it. Usually causes problems.
  9. GeorgeS
    Did you take OFF a D-404 ? If so, cross section it with a hack saw, see how thick the Carcass is. ?? Take a picture and post. The carcas on the new E-3 is 1/2 in thick, plus the Tread thickness !!! Thanks--
  10. GeorgeS
    Carefull, that thing might go faster then you bargined for !!!
  11. GeorgeS
    This last posting should be put in the Maint Library !!!
  12. GeorgeS
    Well, even if they don't carry it, they should be able to order some for you. My local Independent auto parts, always keep a roll of bulk plug wire on hand. ?? Have you done the Resistance Check of the " Pickup Coils " ??? If not, see service manual.
  13. GeorgeS
    Look up this " tool " on google, I highly reccomend this for Rebleediing the brake systems after caliper rebuild. Great for working on car brakes also.
  14. GeorgeS
    Just remove the Large Plug, under the Water Pump, right , fwd corner of engine. Let Drain, Remove Radiator cap, Flush the system a couple times with garden hose, run engine, drain again, flush again, drain again. Now just put in 1 1/2 Qt. of new Anti Freez, and 1 1/2 Qt of distilled Water. Go for a drive--- Next day, top off the Coolant Overflow tank with 50/50 mix of antifreez/distilled water. Nothing to it. You only need one wrench--- And stele your wifes distilled water that she keeps somplace near the Ironing Board !!!
  15. GeorgeS
    Do you mean, water was leaking from Radiator Hose, down into the Spark Plug houseing ??? If so, Blow Out with compressed Air. Always do that before removeing plugs, to prevent forign material from falling into the cylinder when removeing the plugs. From what you said above, ??? not sure though, you have replaced the Plug wires and caps. ??? IF not, you can simply buy Bulk, 7MM solid copper core Spark plug wire from most any Auto parts dealer. Make up your own. Screw the Caps OFF at the Ignition Coils, and the Resistor caps. Then the Wire simply Screw's out on each end, Cut new wire and Screw back into place. Nothing to it !!!!! ------------------------------ OK, Check this !! Observe the " PULL Throttle Cable " Move the Throttle, slowly, do you have Some Amount of Slack, Before the Mechanical linkage at the Left FWD Carb, starts to Move ????? IF NOT-- you need to readjust the Cable Sheath, about 3 inches forward of the left Fwd, Carb. ---- THERE MUST BE ABOUT 1/8 INCH OF SLACK IN THE PULL CABLE !!!!! Now you are ready, to check if ALL 4 Throttle Plates, " ARE JUST AT THE CLOSED POSITION " This is what you are doing when doing the Sync Proceedure. -- SEE: Pager 2-12 of 1st gen Service Manual. ( you can pull it up in the 1st gen maint. library ) Observe how the " SNYC " Screws, adjust the " throttle plates "
  16. GeorgeS
    On your 84 you have space in the left fairing ( ie. no yamaha audio system ) I would consider a Marine Quality, AM FM Radio. Most of them have Plenty of power to drive speakers. ( be sure buy marine quality speakers also ) Look for a Radio unit that has the " Aux Input " for MP3. Ok, Now make up a switching unit, that will switch whatever Item you want to use as an audio source. (( say, your cb, radar det, mp3, or whatever )) You can make up a small box, useing minature Audio transformers, to Mix audio from many sources. Also, a switching system to switch between audio sources. I am considering ripping out ALL the OEM stuff in my 89, and doing something like this. But consider, a High Quality Marine AM/ FM, stero , with about 50 Watts per channel, More then enough power. Cost about the same as a seperate Amplifier, and you get the radio thrown in, and Wireing is Kept SIMPLE !!!
  17. GeorgeS
    Best to just order the Master rebuild kit, and caliper rebuild kits, from any Yamaha dealer. Go to website, of most any dealer, and pull up the IPC.
  18. GeorgeS
    On that carb, drain the bowl, make sure the pump runs fuel thru the drain line. Have you run Sea - Foam for a couple tanks yet ? Maby the Float valve in that carb is sticking open. Sea Foam might, clean it up, worth a try.
  19. GeorgeS
    On the Tensioner Pully, and one other Idler Pully, It might be a good idea to Again Remove the Belt, then Remove those Two Pully's. Then Greese, or replace the bearings , in those pully's. OR-- Replace the Idler pully itself. Your problem, " might " be a bad Bearing in one of those two pully's. They don't cost that much, do the job yourself, I doubt the two pullys would cost much more then an hours work at a dealer. I removed both of them on my 93 Ford, and just Injected the bearings with grease useing a needle attachment on my greese gun. ( they are still in service, and doing fine ) after about 20K,
  20. GeorgeS
    If you sprayed anything on the Serpintine Belt, your going to have to Remove the belt. Then Clean All the Pullys. All of them. Then Replace the belt, by spraying " STUFF " on it, you ruined the belt.
  21. GeorgeS
    The serpintine belts being used now are not same as old V-Belts. Do not spray anything on them !! I made that mistake, and about 2 weeks later had to replace the belt. This was about 10 years ago. On a 93 Ford. What I have been doing since they came into service, is just replace them at about every 50,000 miles. Also, recently the new vehicals have belts with Kevlar material in the construction of the belt. The 08 Blazer I just bought, is supposed to have a 100K Kevlar Belt. Do I believer that ?? Who knows ??
  22. GeorgeS
    I used a 1/4 Ratchet, and socket with #3 Phillips Apex tip. You can get more torque on the heads that way. Those Screws are tight.
  23. GeorgeS
    Well the biggest load would be to put a Relay in the Headlight circuit. Use the normal circuit to turn on the relay. Also, the fuel pump-- Also, the tail light and any other running lights you are useing. If you switch is acting up, might as well order a new one. Just a matter of time
  24. GeorgeS
    Thanks for all the input folks !! Drove it around town today, and I like it still. Much better ride then the 03 Blazer ( which I consider OK ). I research the OEM MSRP sticker on the vehical. Was listed out at 32K something. Anyway, for 17K on a 1yr old vehical, I think price pretty good. I found an " AVIS " service sticker under the hood. I have to give up the truck bed. but don't need to buy a bed liner, and topper, and a trailer hitch. So that more then makes up for the cost of a MC trailer. The Inline 6 engine is quite interesting. Smaller displacement then the V6 in the old blazer, but seems to have a lot more torque. I guess that is typical of a straight 6 . Not to many of those around anymore. I researched Recalls, nothing last two year, but several recalls, from 03 to about 06. So I guess GM got most of the bugs worked out. But they are going to stop produceing the TrailBlazer !! Its on the Hit list, for GM downsizeing. Next month, start looking for a trailer. ( ahh good deals !! ) And a few " Mods " ---- 1st job, get the Ham Radio VHF / Uhf Rig mounted.
  25. GeorgeS
    Went to Chevy dealer, looked thru the Silverado's. Settled in on Ext Cab, Work Truck with V-6 due to price. Did a test Drive. And decided to get that one. ( they had lots of them there !!! Lots of them ) Anyway on way back to the Office, I spotted a row, of Used TrailBlazers. Rental Sell backs to dealer. All 2008 models. Checked them out. 32K was New Sticker price new ( MSRP ) All had between 8 to 9 K on them. $16,995 price on all 10 of them. All had hitches, and trailer plugs. and Michilean Tires. I-6 Engine. I drove one, I like it, I bought it. Problem solved. Cost 1K less then the 03 small Blazer I bought back in 04. That one was about 24.5K MSRP, and I paid 18.2K back then, with 14K on it. Now just have to find a bike trailer, and don't need a topper, or hitch, or bed liner !!!!! I hate buying cars !! three days of searching the internet, and running all over town all day today, to get loan and paper work and insurance finished. Oh Well, I think I did pretty fair. I KNOW sombody found a better deal. But I just could not face another 3 days os shopping around. Anyway, bottom line, about 52 percent of MSRP, for 1 year old vehical with 9K on it.
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