Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Seems like it would be a Large Drop, in passenger comfort.
  2. GeorgeS
    Been reading postings all day, didn't have much to say, so decided to go for a ride on the Busa. Good ride. Nothing interesting happened, No Hay bales on the road, no blown tires, No boats sitting on the road, no radar traps. Was a very uneventful ride. However, I did see something worth mentioning, I went down a road I had never been on before. I saw a " FAT " Horse. No kidding, never saw a Fat Horse before. (( Is that politically Incorrect ))
  3. GeorgeS
    How many miles on the bike, how bad is is slipping ?
  4. GeorgeS
    I think I would start by bleeding out and Replaceing ALL the Fluid in the clutch Actuator System. The Piston in the slave Cylinder might be sticking. Or the Two small holes, in the Master Cylinder Resovoiur might be pluged with crud. Anyway, thats where I would start.
  5. GeorgeS

    New Ride

    GeorgeS replied to dkip's topic in Watering Hole

    Check to see if OEM Battery is still installed-- Comeing up on 4 years old.
  6. GeorgeS

    Baling Hay

    GeorgeS replied to GlennTuc's topic in Watering Hole

    Were you overdriveing your headlights ??
  7. GeorgeS
    As an Electrician, I never did trust those " green wires "
  8. GeorgeS
    But if you get one, " don't lug the engine " its not a Harley !!!
  9. GeorgeS
    Check the Switch on the clutch handle. It fits loose, thats how Yamaha made it. This can cause the Cruz to dissengage. I made a small bracket to hold the Switch tight up against the mounting point. That cured it on my bike . Be sure to check that hose from the pump in the right side faring, that runs to the Actuator on the left side.
  10. GeorgeS
    The Only place there is SAE-90 gear lube is in the pumpkin, drain and change. There is no oil in the drive shaft. Just pull off the Pumpkin, pull out the shaft and Lube the splines with Heavy Greese! And put it back together.
  11. GeorgeS
    Easy fix--- My 03 Blazer was doing the same thing on front wheels. Only about 15K on a new set of Calipers, and Pads, had installed 2 years ago. I put in a new set of Pads, this morning, bleed out both, and Wa La !!! All fixed and Wiffie is happy again. No more pulsing, I guess some brands or types of Pads , just do that. Not more then 15 percent worn down on those pads. But I had to work in the Rain, cause the garage is full of motorcycles !!!
  12. GeorgeS
    Yes, the contacts, wear. Each contact is Ground. As the switch rotates, a different wire gets a ground that goes up to the Indicator. I installed a new switch unit, it still did not make good contact. I put a Dab of Solder on each of the contacts of the switch, then it worked. Its a ***** to change. Also, if you have never worked on your Clutch Slave Cylinder, would be a good time to replace that also. You have to remove the cylinder to get at the switch. ( at least if I remember correctly ) Or else just forget about the indicator, and drive happily down the road
  13. GeorgeS
    Not a good idea --
  14. GeorgeS
    Are you talking about the forward end of the Drive Shaft ?? If so, you need to remove the pumpkin, and pull out the drive shaft to Hand Greese the forward end Splines. If never been done on this bike, its needs to be done.
  15. GeorgeS
    Down shift! Open Throttle !!!--- Its NOT a Harley, Take note of where the Red Line is, 7,500 RPM.
  16. GeorgeS
    When you start to Hear the " Dreaded Starter Clanking Noise " There is only ONE Fix!! Replace the Starter Engage Clutch!! And , Maby the 72 tooth Gear. Those 3 bolts, that hold the clutch to the Rotor, Come LOOSE. They have been found in the bottom of the CrankCase !!! When ReInstalling New Bolts, they need to be " Staked " and Have " Lock Tight " applied to the threads. ---USE NEW BOLTS !!!!!!!!! . They are High Tensil Strength bolts, ORDER THEM FROM YAMAHA !!! Make sure you get the right ones. Anything that causes the Starter to Spin Slower ( ie. Low Voltage ) caused by anything, weak battery, corroded Cables, Burned contacts in the Start Solinoid, will make it Worse. All those things need to be fixed !! But, you still have to replace the Starter Clutch. Sorry, thats the bottom line.
  17. GeorgeS
    Pull up the IPC, Oil Filter, and you will see the Spring, and Washer, as to how they are installed. 2nd Item: Noise when Starting, Clunk, clack !! Sorry but this is not good, and its Not the Starter Motor, causeing the noise. -- Pull up the IPC, again, See: Section for " Starter Clutch " On the IPC Drawing, take note of Item #7-- The new clutch unit, and 3 sets of all those little parts shown. Also, 3 new bolts, item # 11 Now pull up Section " Generator " of the IPC--- See item #2 labled " Rotor " on that IPC section The Starter Clutch, is mounted on the back of the Rotor, which has to be removed to replace the Entire " Starter Engage Clutch " Assembly. --- See the 1st gen Maintenance Library Section, for complete details on the job. New batteries might help for a while , new battery might help for awhile, but sooner or later you have to replace the Starter Engage Clutch. Resoldering the Studs on both ends of both battery cables, will also help. The total cost for parts ( the starter clutch ) is about $100.00
  18. GeorgeS
    I have pulled trailers with cars a few times. ( long trips ) As far as doing it with a motorcycle, ???? I will pass on that one. The idea of haveing that thing behind me just don't cut it with me. I will just buy what I need when I get there, I think it will be cheaper and safer in the long run. Anyway, thats my 2 cents on the subject
  19. GeorgeS
    Looking at the 3rd Photo posted, appears that something Cut thru that tire. Has anybody had a chance to examine the tire in detail as yet ?? Lots of us would like to know if this was a tire failure, or was it caused by something external to the tire itself ?? Probably will never know, but I think a close examination would be in order . Thanks.
  20. GeorgeS
    First question: Did the headlight fuse blow ?? 2nd question: Is the bulb burned out ?? 3rd question: Is both low and high beam out ?? 4th question: Did you remove the Plug from the Reserve Lighting Unit, ----- when you had the Instrument panel removed ????? -----IF so, did you reconnect it ?? ((((( Did you put the Plug back onto the Headlight Bulb ???? )))) 5th question: did you remove any other plugs behind the headlight?? if so did you double check to see if you reconnected all of them ???? Especially, the cable comeing From the Right handle bar, it goes to a 6 wire Pull apart plug. Power for the Headlight goes thru that plug on " R/Y Red yellow " and " L/B Blue/Black " wires. If not reconnected, NO Headlights. If you find none of the Above, then Pull out the Plugs FROM, the Instrument Panel, and then check to see if the lights work. Also, to help, see Block diagram page 7-35, service manual lighting system. Also, Power for Headlights, goes thru the Start Switch Second set of contacts. Maby that switch is not makeing contact. See pge 7-35, Start Switch. Do you know where the " Reserve Lighting Unit " is located ?????
  21. GeorgeS
    Sounds hopless -----
  22. GeorgeS
    Ok, 2 year old battery, started ok, then next day its dead ??? Sounds like it shorted out " internally " However, I suggest you check the Main Fuse, and all other fuse's just to make sure nothing else shorted out, and is the cause of the battery failure. Also, the Rectifier/Regulator Unit is conncted directly to Bat thru the 40Amp main fuse. I would put an Ohm meter to the + connection of Bat to ground to make sure there is not a dead short inside the Rectifier unit. Even if fuse is not blown. Also, when you hook up the New Battery, Put DC Digital voltmeter to the Pos terminal and check to see that you are getting full charging voltage, of 14 V DC. If charging voltage is LOW, I would suspect another problem that caused the battery to Drain down with the Key in the OFF position.
  23. GeorgeS
    NO-- the shim does not go on the Caliper !! To check for the shim thickness, Remove left side muffler for access. Now just Loosen the 4 Nuts that hold the pumpkin to the rear end of the drive shaft houseing. ( Leave the Main Axel Nut Tight on right side. ) Now Tap Tap Tap, on the pumpkin with a plastic mallet, watch the space open up between the pumpkin, and the rear end of the Drive shaft. Most likley it will be between 20 to 25 thousands of an inch. Now remove the Axel, and tire. Then remove the Pumpkin, and make a shim to fill the Space that you measured, I used .025 thick aluminum stock metal. OK after doing all this, on re installing the Caliper, I spotted the uneven wear of the Inner Pad. " JerryK " made the first posting concerning this on his 2nd gen. about 3 months ago. Find his thread, and read thru it all if you are interested.
  24. GeorgeS

    Air Filter

    GeorgeS replied to MikeW's topic in Watering Hole

    As far as I know, only Yamaha stock filter, or the K + N Replacement. Put " Air Filter Yamaha Venture " in Google search, many sources for the K + N will pop up. Check at you local Auto parts, they might be able to order some other brand replacement. I know several brands of Oil filters are avialable. I have only used the Yamaha stock filter, ordered from dealers, for my 89. But there Might be a cheaper replacement. Don't know for sure.
  25. GeorgeS
    First thing I would check is the 15 Amp Ignition fuse. There are about 7 or 8 sysems downline from that fuse that might have popped it. ( TCI, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, barrow sensor, Ignition coils etc. ) Next of course, would be the Ignition Switch itself, which is a known issue on these bikes. Listion for the fuel pump running--- then drain one carb, to bleed off fuel pressure if its built up, this will force the fuel pump to run, you should hear it clicking !! Do all the lighting systems work ??? does the Audio system work, if not, check the 40 Amp main fuse. However, most likley its your Ignition switch.
×
×
  • Create New...