Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Get access to the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. Remove The Main Plug on it, and Inspect the Pins for Burn Damage !! Or corrosion !!!!!! There Might be a plug between the Stator and Regulator, on your bike, if so, open and inspect that also !! These plugs are Very Common Trouble spots. The pins go bad, and Turn INTO RESISTORS, AND DROP VOLTAGE
  2. GeorgeS
    Be sure you have HIGH Quality Metric Tools !!! Clean ALL Electrical Plugs with CRC 2-26 !! Clean and lubricate ALL Bolt threads !!! That gets you going !!!! And replace that piece of junk Fuse Block sitting on top of the Battery ----
  3. GeorgeS
    Just remove the 4 nuts holding the Pumpkin in place. Pull it off. Pull out the drive shaft, Greese forward spline, and replace. Nothing to it.
  4. GeorgeS
    Thats a good point !! concerning D-404 milage. Its almost as if they are makeing them in two places, one good and one bad !! Or they have changed the rubber compound, and no way to tell the difference. I feel they are just fine for a small run around town bike, but not a heavy toureing bike. The E-3 is made for the Gold Wing!! Nuff Said
  5. GeorgeS

    TCI

    GeorgeS replied to Lonehunter's topic in Watering Hole

    Did you try the, Dry it out in the Oven, proceedure.??? And Re-Solder the connections to the Circuit Board ?? Might be worth a try
  6. GeorgeS
    I cross cut a D 404 and an Elite II ( previous model to E-3 ) 404 caseing is 1/4 inch thick, E-II caseing is 1/2 inch thick. I assume the E-3 is the same thickness. That E-II. I took off 2 years ago, had about 22K on it.
  7. GeorgeS
    Order a new Ignition Switch !! Its just a matter of time. Use CRC 2-26 on all other Switch's
  8. GeorgeS
    Always Lubricate threads, before Installing. All of them !!
  9. GeorgeS
    Fixed the link, it works now, sorry
  10. GeorgeS
    That thing you Removed, is the " CIA, tracking transponder " Tracking Device. Your in trouble now !!!
  11. GeorgeS
    Well, give the Sea-Foam about 5 days, before complete carb pull apart !! It has worked for many folks, !! Also, open the " Idle Mixture Adjust Needls " ( Pull out the lead seals ) and Clean and Adjust the needl valves. too ( 2 1/4 turns open from full bottom out position ) ( Very carfull not to damage the very fine threads !!! ) Use, Liquid Wrench, to make sure you don't damage threads. Work slowly on this. !!!!
  12. GeorgeS
    Back from Calif Trip, ( Car trip, not bike ) . Pretty good weather. I got to ride my favorite Old Roads, from High School days. " Aliso Canyon Road " ----- " Big Tujunga Canyon "--- Calif. SR-2 Via , Angeles Crest Highway. And, " Little Tujunga Canyon " A couple of the Best rides in the Los Angeles, Ca. area. ( link-- http://www.pashnit.com/roads/cal/LittleTujungaRd.htm ) Little Tujunga canyon is one of the featured rides, on Pashnit Tour's. Ride was on a 97 FLH, very well broke in , high milage, Very well maintained, old war horse. ( belongs to sister and Her hubby ) Quite a hand full of bike on that winding road !!! -----( 2 ea. photo's attached ) There was a massive number of riders on these two roads, last Sunday. Back in 1959 and 1960 I might pass 4 or 5 bikes running these two roads, ( on my old 47 WL, or 55 matchless, and 60 Puch ) But this trip, must have passed at least 100 bikes or more running the road. Saw one group of at least 30 Vintage,and new Triumphs. ( no police were encountered, or seen ) Total ride was only about 125 miles, but it was a great ride !! If anybody is interested, my new 08 TrailBlazer Averaged 21.58 MPG, for the entire 2550 mile trip from SEA to LAX and back. It has the Inline 6 engine installed. Average Fuel Price, up and down the West Coast, was about 2.35 per gallon. OK, thats done, now time to cut the grass, and wash the cars !! And rideing season just around the corner, get those tune ups done folks !!!
  13. GeorgeS
    Start by draining that carb bowl. Then run a can of Sea-Foam fuel conditioner, in about 1/2 of more tank of gas. Then, Drain ALL the Carb bowls, Each has a drain hose. #2 Phillips on side of each carb to open the drains. This is a common trouble. Also keep running Sea-Foam ( or other good fuel injector Cleaner ) for 3 or 4 tanks of fuel. Also, good idea, to Completly Drain your Gas Tank. At the PetCock, right side.
  14. GeorgeS
    Few bucks for a Bead breaker tool, a vise, on the work bench and a few hand tools I have been changing my tires for the last 30 years. No big deal. Also, I clean the rim, so I know thats been done correctly, and I make darn sure the tire is seated properly. Now with Ride - On, simple remove the old weights, install the ride on and tire is balanced. The Ride On stuff cost about same per wheel as what a dealer add's on for balancing. Another trick, is order you tools, ride on, and tires ahead of time to reduce down time. Its really not that hard to do
  15. GeorgeS
    I would start by pulling the plugs, and see what they look like. Run a can of sea foam, drain the carb bowls a couple times, new set of plugs, and do a Carb Sync. Also, check the Choke linkage to all 4 carbs, make sure no problem there. Air filters ??? are they clean Way to low on the MPG.
  16. GeorgeS
    Ditto above: A little more detail. The Stator is rated at 30 amps, at 3000 rpm however most never average that rpm. More realistic figure about 27 to 28 amps at cruz speed. Also, the carb heaters turn OFF after engine reaches run temp. If you turn OFF all extra lighting, your OK with heated clothing for the rider, for vest , chaps and gloves. However, if you add passenger heated clothing your overloaded. But, here, if only a heated vest for two, your ok, with extra lighting turned OFF. Another factor, is if you do lots of short 10 to 15 mile trips, then you are not giveing the battery time to recover from start cranking, and Vest usage in early morning colder temps, you might run into trouble. Installing a higher capacity, Dry Cell AGM Battery, with higher capacity, would help get around the short trip, problem. Assumeing you use a trickle charger over nite most of the time, and Regularly re-charge battery couple times a month. But: If you ride two up, and want to run heated clothing for two, and lots of extra lighting, and accessories, ( maby a trailor ) then I would deffinatly consider an Upgraded Stator, AND, AGM type battery. ( Upgraded stators have been disscussed at length on this web site , about 40 Amps, verse the stock 30 amp) Remember, the average small car system puts out about 75 AMPS ( for reference ) Also be sure to wire up any new accessories, with a Relay, and Switch, so you can pick and choose what is being used at any given time. ( be sure you can Turn OFF those extra two head lights when running other heavy electrical loads ) Also, use at least #16 wire for added accessories !! ( And a Relay )
  17. GeorgeS
    The aftermarket, Superbrace, is simply , thicker material, Stronger.
  18. GeorgeS
    You only need to remove the Starter Clutch, If you are hearing Loud Clanging Noise on start attempt. If you hear it, You will know what it is !! Big article in the 1st gen Maint Library on this web site concerning this repair. Just removeing the start motor, to work on it, is easy, remove pipe, remove 2 bolts, and pull it out. On replacement, BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO OVERTORQUE, the Nut holding the Red Battery Cable, on the starter. The Stud can TWIST, and break OFF, Inside the motor unit. !!!!!
  19. GeorgeS
    Removeing header pipe is no big deal Replaceing the Starter Engage Clutch, IS a Big Deal !!
  20. GeorgeS
    The Inner pads on rear, always wear faster. If you think its worn out, it most likley is !! Been many discussions on this point. I've been replaceing mine about every 15K since bike was new, 73K on it now.
  21. GeorgeS
    If you drop the canister, order 6 new Seals ahead of time. Most likley they are shot. Seals are made of some Soft material. Also there is a part inside the canistor that is rivited into place, ( sort of a center devider ) which come's loose and Rattles. Very common. Fix is cut the thing open, remover the loose part and have it re - welded shut. ( Stainless Steel welding ) I reccomend completly draining the tank, best to remove petcock, to clean out the bottom of fuel tank. ( Screen inside tank, on the petcock, may also need cleaning or replacement ) Also, pull out the Carb Diaphrams, and inspect for holes and tears in the thin rubber diaphram material. ( very common problem, due to age ) Also, going over EVERY Electrical connector ( ALL of them ) on the entire bike, with Electrical Contact Cleaner, is a good thing to do. The TCI, Ignition Unit, is famous for getting moisture inside, causeing ignition problems. Remove the unit, and dry in a oven at about 110 deg F. for a couple hours. Also, Syncing the Carbs is a big deal on these bikes.
  22. GeorgeS
    Send a letter to the Dept of Transportation, concerning that " Incident " They might add it to their Official Anti Motorcycle Literature !! Gov't loves incident reports
  23. GeorgeS

    Hog members

    GeorgeS replied to footsie's topic in Watering Hole

    Went down to auto parts ( working on a MB again *&%$#@*(&^% ) to pick up my part. A Hog was parked there, an OLD one, 1940, 80 CI. I swear it was the most rusted, crappy looking bike I ever saw on the road. Holes in the fenders, rusty, worn out tires, rusty spokes, parts missing, twisted wires etc etc, He was just leaveing, so I engaged him in conversation, about guess what ?? He said it was a Highly Modified WWII, Army bike. The Plates were Washington, ( Horseless Carriage ). Never saw those before. He said something about that was the only way the state would licence the thing. But-- when he left, One Kick of the Start lever, it was purring like a Harley !!
  24. GeorgeS
    Might, be time to run a can of Sea-Foam, if not allready done.
  25. GeorgeS
    Yes, best drain the oil, into a clean container, and then Strain it, to check for " whatever " might be in bottom of crankcase.
×
×
  • Create New...