Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Have you tried lossening the Fork Pinch bolts at the triple tree, and the fork brace bolts, and the front Axel Now re-torque the pinch bolts, then the fork brace, then the wheel axel Also, re-check the torque settings for the Swing arm main Nuts, ( good time to greese those bearings also )
  2. GeorgeS
    Well its sounding like there is some problem with that carb. Have you Removed the Idle Mix Jet, and Inspected those very fine threads on it. Are the threads Damaged ?? If threads are damaged, in the carb body, most likley you will have to find a replacement carb. Is the Needle jet Damaged ?? Are you absolutly sure all 4 throttle Plates, are going to " full " closed position with the hand throttle ?
  3. GeorgeS
    The carbs were larger, after , I think about 02, but not sure of exact year. The later ones with larger carbs have higher HorsePower. Sombody will chip in with the exact year.
  4. GeorgeS
    Well there is a Bearing in there. Might be bad. Guess you will just have to dissassemble the thing, and see what you find. Never heard of this problem before.
  5. GeorgeS
    Do you have a set of Mercury Stiks, or the " Morgan Carb Tune tool " ??? The Correct Setting for the Idle Mix Adjusting Jets, is 2 and 1/4-- to --- 2 and 1/8 turns CCW from full closed. Set them all the Same--- Then Set the Throttle Pull cable to have 1/8 Inch of Slack. Then, Do a Carb Sync with the Morgan Carb Tune Tool !!! ( or mercury stiks ) See: the Service manual for the Sync Proceedure---- Your " Main Idle Adjust " is under the left Fwd Carb " There is One Sync Screw on the left side, and two on the Right side. After this is all done, then do ---- """ Very Minor Adjusment"""" -----of the Idle mix Screws. !!! Untill you do the " SYNC " of the mechanical linkage, you are just bucking the wind !!
  6. GeorgeS
    Did you carefully check the Clamps, that seal the bottom of carbs to the Intake manifolds ?? Did you carefull check the Clamps, that hold the Air cleaner box to the top of the Carbs. The vaccume line from the left Fwd, carb that runs up to the Barrow sensor, check that hose for rotting, and leaks, Also T-connector in that line, and hose that runs up to the front, bottom of air cleaner box, Is It installed correctly ?? Check those Vent hoses's between the two cylinder banks, are they all Installed tightly ?? Check the right, Fwd " Intake Manifold " for Cracks !! ( Yes they do crack ) On mine, I could actually hear it sucking air. Have you Removed the TCI, opened it up, and Dryed out the Moisture that is Inside of it ( Yes--- It does have moisture in it, they ALL DO !!!!! ) Put it in oven at about 110 deg. F, to dry it out. --- Also, resolder the connections from the two plugs, going to the Circuict board inside the TCI. Use Electrical contact cleaner, on the Ignition switch, and the Red, Run Stop switch, And the TCI plugs. Pull the Electrical plug OFF of the BArrometric Pressure sensor, and Clean the contacts. With Engine running at about 2000 RPM, check the DC voltage on the + Battery Stud-- Is it running at between 13.8 to 14.1 Volts ????? If lower then that, you might have an electrical problem. Measure the DC Resistance of the Primary winding of all 4 Ignition Coils. should be 3.8 to about 4.1 Ohms. Find the Two wire connectors going to each Ing Coil, and clean the contacts.
  7. GeorgeS
    If you find a good condx, ( about 20 to 50K ) 2nd gen ( 86 or newer ) all of the issues with these bikes are well documented. If you buy one I would suggest buying about $1200 bucks worth of parts, and just take care of " ALL " the known issues at once. I would estimate about 2 weeks of evenings, and weekends and you could have them all completed. However I am a big beliver in Preventitive maintenance, ( I know everybody does not agree ) New Stator, new starter engage clutch, new clutch slave cylinder, new carb diaphrams, New Barnett Clutch, TCI maintenance, and clean up All Electrical connectors, Rebuild front forks with new seals, Install new superbrace, New set of Dunlop E-3 tires, Rebuild brake Calipers, Rebuild clutch and brake master's, Clean out fuel System, and service cooling system. Maby, a new set of steering head bearings-- New set of plug wires--- New set of fuel lines --- New Starter Solinoid -- Maby, new wheel bearings. -- New AGM type Battery -- Corbin Seat-- New throttle cables -- Replace all the bulbs -- Remember, these bikes are OLD, you would have to do maintenace for anything thats Age Related. ( however that applies to any 20 year old bike ) Most of these jobs are documented in the Maintenance Library on this web site. If I were to buy a used, lets say 87, I would simply tear into it and do everything at once. Then hit the road.
  8. GeorgeS
    I noticed a slight improvement in " Cold Starts " on my 89 1st gen with the Iridiums installed. Other then that, I can't say any other improvements. After 15K they were still working just fine, but I did replace them.
  9. GeorgeS
    Most likley, first thing to do is " Sync The Carbs " Throw in a new set of plugs first. Your milage is deffinalty on the Low Side.
  10. GeorgeS
    If you install New Horns, Be sure to Install A Bosh Relay to control the horns. Stock Yamaha Horn circuit, does NOT, have a Relay. Wire's are only #18 and are NOT large enough to control a High Current After Market set of Horns. !!!! Driveing Lights, If you Install TWO new 35 Watt or Stronger lights, BE Sure to Install a RELAY, to control these new lights!!! Use #16 Wire, to wire up the New horn, and lights. Tires--- " Dunlop E-3 of Course !!! "
  11. GeorgeS
    I have been doing the Maintenance on my son's 83 CX-500 since about 1985. The unit has about 58K on it now. Couple of problem points I have found over the years. 1. Valve's need to be adjusted about every 3 to 5 K. Push Rod, overhead cam type set up. Valves do not hold adjustment very good. 2. The Tachometer drive cable, has been a problem. Be sure to pull out the inner cable, and keep it well lubricated. Same for the Speedo cable. Also, on the Speedo and Tacko, good idea to open them up and lubricate the inner parts. ( I had to replace the Speedo Cable twice, due to the Inner cable twisting off ) 3. I did have to replace Slipping Clutch plates around 30K. But never slipped after that. 4. The Two Carbs, have a Balancing ( Sync ) adjustment, I finally hooked up a set of Mercury Stiks, and got them balanced good. ( The Adjustment Screw to accomplish this is a Rinki Dink set up. I had to Modify this adjustment screw, to get good results on the Syncing proceedure ) 5. I also found that installing a set of " Free Flowing " Mufflers seemed to make a good improvement in engine performance. ( It also decreased the Valve Clatter, substantially ) 6. Fuel Filtering, as set up by the factory, is very minimal ( at least on our 83 CX-500 ) I highly reccomend installing some type of after market Fuel Filter !!!! And due to age, you are most likly have to do some serious work on cleaning out the inside of the fuel tank, due to age. 7. I rebuilt the front forks, 2 years ago and installed new seals. This job was very easy to do, ( I also found a bad front wheel bearing ) 8. If bike has over 50K, a new set of Steering bearings will most likley be needed, Ours has 63K on it now, and its badly in need of new bearings in the Steering head.
  12. GeorgeS
    After reading comments as to the Metz tires for about 3 years on this web site. Everybody that try's them, seems to agree that the handling, traction, etc etc. Is very good. I did use one set on a 79 BMW, and had no problems. However:!!!! There are just to many reports of Chunking out and failure. Also I have read several comments that the company is not up front about replaceing a tire that fails. ---------- I have mentioned this before, and will again. Continental Tires---- I have used them, on two bikes, and got very good performance, and Service from them. Just wondering why nobody on this web site even seems to know they exist ??? Haveing said that, I'm going to stay with the E-3 Rears on my 89. However Continental does make good tires in size that fits the Ventures, and I feel should be considered as a very good Contender.
  13. GeorgeS
    There were a couple postings over the last year, with photo's as to how to dissassemble the Ignition Switch and repair, Sorry, I lost track of them. Sombody might be able to find those postings.
  14. GeorgeS
    I recently read articles posted by an ST-1300 rider on another web site. His comments were the first bike went over 85K with Zero Problems, and he bought a second one, and that one is over 90K with Zero Problems. This fellow claimed he rides about 20 to 30K every summer. Frankly I have been seriously considering this as my next bike. But, ??? I'm pretty happy with my current rides. Maby a few bucks spent on modifications of your ST-1300 would be a wise economic choice.
  15. GeorgeS
    As long as you were in there, did you Install a New Higher Output Stator ???? As long as all the covers are OFF, did you Install a " New " Clutch Slave Cylinder ??? One more item, as long as the side panels are off. Reach up to the " Barrowmetric pressure Sensor " and pull off the Electrical plug, make sure NO water or moisture in the Rubber Cover, over the 3 electrical pins. ( Yes this can keep the ignition system from working correctly ) One guy had this problem.
  16. GeorgeS
    Well from your description of your work I think you have it . I would just Watch the DC Voltage, at the Battery terminal couple times a month, to make sure the voltage stays 13.8 to 14.1. If so, your good. Your not the first to have this problem on a 2nd Gen. Sombody mentioned that road wash, from front wheel hits this plug ( I'm not positive on this point though ) Sombody can confirm this ?? If you now have tight connections. And sealed out the water, it will most likley be ok.
  17. GeorgeS
    Had one fail last year. I always carry a spare---
  18. GeorgeS
    Open the controller unit, Resolder the wires to the Circuit board. Also, about 4 inches from the controller, the Plug, Tug Tug on the wires both sides, one of the wire migh just pull right out of the plug. I had both these problems !! Also, the Large Plug, Under passenger seat, left side, about 18 wires going thru it, give this plug a bath with Contact Cleaner, and compressed air.
  19. GeorgeS
    I guess this all means that " IF " I buy a 2nd gen bike, I should Immediatly order a new #3 coil, and carry it as a spare ? ( and an ignition switch ) Maby just find a place to mount it, and wire it up to make a quick swap of the wireing in the middle of Nevada, on highway 50
  20. GeorgeS
    Idle mix jets, anything about 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 turns CCW. ( Engine should run OK ) Did you remove the idle mix needles to check if the seats have been damaged. when you Replaced the diaphram covers, are you sure the gaskets made a good Seal ??? The big O-Ring. ---- AND THE little one ??? It has to be installed !!! ( Its easy to miss on reassembly ) Check your " PULL" throttle cable, at the left Fwd Carb-- Be sure it has about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of " Slack " before trying to do a Carb Sync. If no slack, then most likley the last carb sync ( If Ever ) was botched up. If the last Carb sync was done, with Two Diaphrams, with Holes in them, then most likley you need to just do a Carb Sync. Also, you might as well order a new set of diaphrams, !! your just delaying what is sure to come. The Glue, won't last forever Also, check the Clamps Above and Below the Carb bodies !! Double check for any Vaccume Leaks. Are the Vaccume port Plugs re-installed ?
  21. GeorgeS
    Well I was rideing from Sacremento to Redding Calif, last summer, Temp was 112 Deg F. I found that a Single White T-Shirt fit the bill just right. Or, a long sleeve White Shirt !!! I always carry a White Shirt when running thru Calif in the summer, for those extra Warm days.
  22. GeorgeS
    have you checked all 4 ends of the battery cables ?? Clean, and maby resolder them. Use solder flux, propane torch for heat, and resolder with Rosin Core solder. Also, ther is a Main Grounding point somwhere on the bike. ( not sure where on 2nd gen. its under upper left fairing on 1st Gens. ) find the point, remove and Clean all the contacts, maby Resolder the Studs to ends of wires. There will be about 5 Black wires going to ground at this one point. ( Yamaha ran all black wires back to theis one point ) Also, there is an Noise filter located someplace on the bike ( see service manual ) Also, there is a small Capacitor mounted to the output of the Regulator. Use service manual, find the capacitor, might need to be replaced, ( Or install a larger capacitor ) Also, Remove the Plug, from the Rectifyer/Regulator unit. and Check the Pins for damage, ( the black and Red wires from the Regulator are carrying High Current ) There have been several reports of Burnt Pins in this plug. The Radio, and audio equipment Units should have a ground from their Case's. Be sure these ground wires are not corroded at connections. Use CRC 2-26, Electrical contact cleaner, on ALL plugs and connections for All of the Audio, and Intercom Components. ( while your at this job, do EVERY Connector on the Entire Motorcycle with CRC 2-26 ) Check All your fuses's for corrosion, and Very Good contacts in the Fuse Holders. Check for " ZERO " oHMS ( dead short ) Between All sections of the Frame and Engine, and Neg Battery Stud. Also, take resistance readings, from the neg Battery Stud, to the CASE of All the Audio Components. That should get you started.
  23. GeorgeS
    IF the PIN is Burnt, that means there was Bad connection between the Male and female pins. ie. Pins did not have a tight fit!! There was resistance between the Male and female pins. ( This high resistance point, becomes a Heating Element ) The problem is Right there at those burnt pins. HIGH CURRENT FLOWING THRU A RESISTOR, CREATES "" HEAT "" The heat creats carbon, as more carbon builds up, the resistance goes higher, makes more heat, its a vicious circle--- --- REMEMBER, YOU HAVE UP TO 30 AMPS FLOWING IN AND OUT OF THAT REGULATOR UNIT!!! That why those are Large Size Wires.
  24. GeorgeS
    Those three bolts, Were " STAKED " at the factory, And they had Lock tight applied. ---- You might have to grind off them down where they were Staked
  25. GeorgeS
    As to the Stator, If you measured the AC Voltage On All Three AC output Phases's from the Stator going to Rectifyer, and they are all the SAME , AC voltage which you stated was the case yesterday, Then Assume the STATOR is OK> ( If BAD, one of the three phases, would be Substantially LOWER then the other TWO. OK, As to the Bad Black ( ground ) wires you stated in the PLUG, at the Rectifyer. If pins are Damaged, Sorry, you will have to , REMOVE the Damaged Pins from the Plug. This is not real simple. Each PIN, ( male and female ) has a " KEEPER ". You must slide in a Small tool ( usually Flat, thin metal, about 1/8 inch wide ) to release the KEEPER, and to wire with pin should pull out. Your going to have to find replacement male or female connector's to replace the damaged pins. Also, Usually the " FEMALE " pins Lossen up, and make loose ( bad, high resistance connection's ) to the Male pin. Find some Male Pins the same size, and do the " feel " test, slide them in and out of the female pins to make sure there is a Fairly Tight Fit !!!! IF Loose, this can cause ARCHING, and then carbon build up, and this turns into HIGH RESISTANCE. (((( THIS IS THE SAME AS A HEATING ELEMENT ON AN ELECTRIC STOVE--- CONSUMES HIGH CURRENT, AND LOWERS THE VOLTAGE TO THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON THE BIKE. ))) ----- NOT GOOD !!!! ----- Also, as long as your working on it, ON the Plug at the Regulator/rectifyer Unit, you can splice into the Black wires which go to Ground somplace on the bike, and run your new black leads to a VERY GOOD Ground fairly close to the Plug. In other words, make sure the Regulator Unit is Well Grounded. Also, Take Resistance Readings " FROM" the NEG Battery STUD, to various Points on the Frame of you bike, ( front to rear ) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE " ZERO oHMS " ie. DEAD SHORT, to ALL POINTS on the Entire Frame of the bike. AND ALL black wires going thru ANY, Electrical Plug on the bike. !!! NOTE:--- 1 or 2, or 3 OHMS --- IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!--- NO MATER WHER YOU CHECK, FROM NEG BAT STUD, TO ANY GROUND POINT, SHOULD BE " ZERO OHMS " !!! Also, use CRC 2-26 ON ALL Electrical Switches !!!! Find the Main 30 or 40 Amp Fuse, between Regulator and Battery, Open it, make Sure NO Resistance across the fuse contacts. ( this is a problem spot on 1st gens, but I'm not sure of this on 2nd gens ) Be sure to do the Battery, Full Charge for 6 to 10 hours , ( out of bike ) and let it sit for 24 hours, and then Check the " NO LOAD Voltage " Be sure its NOT discharging " INTERNALLY " !!!!! ( Is the water level Above the Plates ???? ) If a lead acid battery ??? DID YOU CHECK YOUR BATTERY CABLE END STUDS, MOUNT POINTS, AND CLEAN ANY CORROSIION ?????
×
×
  • Create New...