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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Well, 100 miles, in 75 min. = 80 average. For those speeds. it think 35 is pretty good. Do a nice conservative drive at 65 to 70, flat land, and I est. 41 to 45. Thats about average for these beasts. Sounds to me like your bike is running just fine !! ( stow the tools, and go ride !!! ) Even if it does burn a little extra, so what?? your not paying sales tax on a new Harley !!!!
  2. GeorgeS
    You might test the Horn, Just run two wires from the horn terminals, and touch them to the proper Bat Terminals, just to make sure the Horn actually works. Double check the Terminal Numbers on the Relay. First get the Control wireing correct, ie. Relay Clickes when you hit the horn button. Then use Ohm meter across the two power studs, to make sure, the contacts open and close when relay clicks. ( might be a bad relay, if so, get a Bosh Relay, from Auto parts store ) ( Bosh Relays, are the Best!!!! ) ( Quality ) then hook up the power, from battery thru the power contacts of relay, and on to the Horn. ie; Think like and Electrician, One wire at a time,
  3. GeorgeS
    I thought the crack point was on the Cross member, between the Two vertical members, just a little aft, of the point shown in the photo's. I think you actually have to pull out the Canister, to get a good view of the place where the cracks develop.
  4. GeorgeS
    Well I guess I would start by checking for Loose bolts, all over the frame, and engine mounts.
  5. GeorgeS
    Guess we need more info. Can you pinpoint it a little more ? Is it a dull sound, tinny sound etc. Any chance loose motor mounts ?
  6. GeorgeS
    Just got back from the Gym : The two black wires come from the regulator, go thru the plug, and then up to the ground Stud, buried under the upper left side fairing. ( Its under the Inside panel of the fairing ) ( its hard to get to. has about 5 black wires grounded there ) That is the Ground for the Regulator. Current flow, Neg. to Pos. is from the Reg. to the ground stud thru the battery and back to the regulator thru the two red wires at the plug. Did you open the plug ?? Are the Pins damaged ?? Any sign of Burn Damage ?? Are all 4 male and female pins fitting snuggly together?? With Plug connected, Read Resistance from each side of plug thru all 4 sets of Pins. All should read zero ohms. Also, with plug connected, read from Reg. side of plug, to Neg Battery Terminal, it should show zero ohms, dead short. IF not, suspect the Neg Battery terminals. ( Might need to be resoldered ) ---------------------- Did you open the Large White Plug, going From the Stator, " TO " the Regulator ?? ( It might have been removed by previous owner, and wires spliced together ) Another test to do here. With large White plug connected, Read thru each of 3 sets of contacts, for the Resistance. Make sure you see Zero Ohms thru each set of contacts. Open the plug, inspect for Burn Damage to Pins. !!!! With everything together. Engine Running at 2000 RPM. Find the 3 wire White plastic plug from the Stator. Stick meter leads into each of the 3 wires going thru the plug. Read the AC ((( yes AC Voltage )) on each wire to Ground. You should see some AC voltage, from 5 to 10 volts, AC ( exact voltage not important ) What is important, is "" IF "" the AC voltage on one of the three leads, is substantially Lower then the other two. Then your Stator is bad!! This is a given, and not debatable. Do that AC voltage check, let me know what the three AC voltage readings are. Note: The service manual says, to check stator, take Resistance reading thru the 3 coils of the Stator ( 3 phases 's ) This test WILL NOT !!! tell you if your stator is good or bad.
  7. GeorgeS
    Open the Plug, " From " the Regulator, Measure Resistance, from the Two Black Wires, to Ground at the Net Bat terminal, and several other points on the bike frame, Make sure you read " ZERO " Ohm from the Neg output of Regulator to ALL points on the bike that are supposed to be grounded. Also, read from Neg Terminal, to Many points on the Frame, be sure Zero Ohms. Open up the main 40 Amp fuse holder, make sure the Two Small Screws are tight. And again, be sure to check the two big plugs " To " and " From " the Regulator. But, you might, have a bad regulator--- ??
  8. GeorgeS
    In that case, Remove Fuses' for All Added, aftermarket accessories. Recharge, and see what happens. ( check voltage ) Then remove all fuses except the Ignition fuse. Check charging voltage. Sounds like one circuit has a High Resistance, and dropping voltage. OR, you might have a BAD Odyessy Battery, I would also, fully charge it, and let it sit for 24 hours, ( dissconnected ) to see if it is holding a charge. A few folks have gotten " bad " Odyessy batteries, I recall about 3 of them being discussed.
  9. GeorgeS
    --- NO !!!! ----- Get a Dunlop E-3 for your rear
  10. GeorgeS
    Have you " Charged " that Odyessy battery ?? Correct charging proceedure is to charge it at a 6 AMP or Higher Rate, for 4 to 10 hours depending on the state of charge. Proceedure to determine State of charge of AGM type Battery. Read " NO LOAD " Voltage. 100 percent charge 12.8 Volts. 75 percent charge about 12.6 Volts 50 percent charge, about 12.4 Volts. Or, pull out the Instruction sheet, that came with your battery, Read up on the Charging proceedure's. Are you aware that the Odyessy charging proceedure IS NOT the same as a Lead Acid battery ? I'm suspecting that all you need to do is Charge that battery. The voltage is reading LOW, because the bike's system is in the process of charging the battery, and there is a drop across the battery itself. After fully charging, things might change. If you have been playing with a " Trickle Charger " throw it in the trash, and use a Car Battery Charger !! Use the 6 AMP high charge rate, for AGM type batteries.
  11. GeorgeS
    1. Assume Nothing-- First place to check it the Plugs going " TO " the Regulator, from the Stator. And the Plug, " From " the Regulator, going to Main fuse and battery. Also, the Two black wires From that plug that go to Ground. ( Inspect all pin, male and female for BURN Damage, Make sure all the male and female pins, have a Tight Fit. Make sure you TUG on all the wires, make sure the Crimps of the studs, are tight on the wire strands. -- IF you find any damage on these two Plugs, IT MUST BE REPAIRED!!! Check the Neg Bat cable where it connects to the Engine block, Clean, and Resolder. I would then Remove all fuses feeding power to ALL the Accessories, then Run Engine, and Monitor the DC Charging level at the Battery + Stud. Should be above 13.5 Volts. If Lower, then 13.5, consider that the Battery " MIGHT " have developed an Internal High load. Is the Battery a Lead Acid, stock type battery?? Is it OVER, 3 years old, if so then I would suspect the battery is failing. ( To test, Remove battery, Charge it on bench, at a 2 Amp or higher rate for 6 to 10 hours, Top off water level, then Let it sit, for 24 to 48 hours and recheck the voltage. If the 12.2 V charged level, slowly drops, ( ON THE BENCH ) over 48 hours, then consider the battery has failed. --- NO point in tearing into the Bike circuits, untill you are POSITIVE, that you have a GOOD Battery --- Always, Suspect, the Battery itself ( Even if only a year old or so) I have had 2 Yuasa, Sealed lead acid batteries FAIL, in less then 15 months. If battery is good, then start Re-Installing the fuse's for accessories one at a time, if you see a voltage Drop, then suspect that circuit.
  12. GeorgeS
    I use a magnetic mount on my suziki, I highly reccomend the mag mount type of tank bag.
  13. GeorgeS
    Pull sensor out of old battery. Cut off sensor, Solder a 2200 Ohm resistor to end of wire. Connect a length of hook up wire to other end of resistor ( and solder ) Cover new resistor with Insulated shrink tubeing. connect end of new piece of wire to a Switched 12 V source. OK, that is the mod, as how its been done on many of our bikes. -------------- Thats basicly it. You now have a lower voltage going to the CMS. As far as the mechanic at the dealer knowing anything about Electricity, or computer chips, Forget it !!
  14. GeorgeS
    Google, J + M motorcycle headsets they have just about everything
  15. GeorgeS
    Its Raining in Seattle Again Today !!! Only 52 DEG, F. ( nice ride yesterday though ) And Cold, absolutly NO Sign of Global Warming here on the " Left " Coast as yet. But I'm keeping an eye on things,
  16. GeorgeS
    Well I guess at this point, with everything considered, if it was me, I would Maby Try a different Plug. Hotter, or Colder, ??? Are U useing the stock NGK number plug ? Maby an Iridium NGK, and get the Cross to the stock NGK plug number. ie: New set of plugs, and take it out for a 500 Mile run, keep the RPM's UP, pull in the drive way, pull the plugs and have another look at them !! One other item, (??? ) the Air Filter. Is it new, or has it been cleaned several times ? Possibily some air flow restriction. You might consider useing a K + N air filter. There has also been discussions about re-shimming the Needle's on the carb pistons, to improve fuel economy. If nothing else keeps it from running rich, this might be worth some consideration. Another consideration, might be running Sea-Foam for several tanks of fuel, over time this might clean up the Valve Seats. Also use some sea foam in the oil, and run for 1/2 hour, before changing oil. Possible there might be a stuck Ring on couple cylinders. Running a cleaning agent in the Oil over time might clear that, " IF " it was a problem. That brings up another thought, have you done a Compression Check ??? This might give you a clue as to any other problem. ( possible some valves, not seating correctly, Sea-Foam, might cure this over 500 to a 1000 miles of Hard, Rideing . Again, just guessing on all this. But, thats part of the game, as they say, Remember, this is supposed to be FUN!!
  17. GeorgeS
    Well, how about the Level you set the floats at ?? The fuel level, will effect the Mixture. IF fuel level set to " High " it will run Rich. If fuel level set to " Low " it will run Lean. If your floats, are heavy, then level might be high, causeing rich. I'm just guessing here !!
  18. GeorgeS
    Just calm down !!!
  19. GeorgeS
    If no relay came with the new lights. Be sure to buy a Bosh Relay, at most any auto parts dealer. Use a NEW Switch to control the relay, and Relay to supply voltage to the new lights. Be sure you can turn them OFF. I also reccomend useing #16 wire for hook up. And install a seperate Fuse ( In line fuse OK ) to bring power from a Switched Power source to the new relay. Do not hook to any OEM fused circuit. This would overload that circuit. See this circuit: http://www.accessconnect.com/fog_driving_lights_wiring.htm
  20. GeorgeS
    I have a hard fast rule with my Venture-- Gravel!! NO GO !! Not with this bike. Now I grew up on a 47 Harley WL, and gravel roads, and many other bikes. But not this one. I got caught on some road work up around Mt. Rainer 2nd year I had this bike. I made it thru, but NEVER AGAIN !!! My 79 BMW R100T was great on gravel ??? and fire roads, whatever, --- The Venture, NO WAY
  21. GeorgeS
    Well, possibly an Intake vaccume leak, around the Manifolds where they mount to the cylinder heads ?? ( maby ) Have you had those removed? Sombody said he installed new O-Rings there, but still had to use sealant, to stop an intake leak. You -- Might --- have a sick plug. I have gotten bad, " NEW " plugs out of the box a couple times. ??? Just a thought. Have you tried a set if NGK Iridium Plugs. My bike, cold, usually starts with about 1/2 choke. With hot engine, no choke required. Plug wires ?? did you remove the 7MM solid copper wire from Caps, and coils and inspect the center conductor where it screws into the caps and coils ?? I guess due to running rough as you say, I would also replace the plugs one at a time, if you hit the right one, ( If one is sick ) it should be apparent when you change the right one.
  22. GeorgeS
    I was thinking about that, as if the tank was Full, maby 1 + 1/2 gallon of fuel is above the carbs. and migh gravity feed. Untill it go t down to a certain level.
  23. GeorgeS
    I spotted the 4 cans of Sea-Foam--- Right in front, thats all he needs anyway
  24. GeorgeS
    Sounds like the Switch itself has failed mechanically. Fix--- Order new switch -- Replace switch
  25. GeorgeS
    I'm not sure exactly what the problem is buried in that long paragraph ?? Sounds to me like it running pretty good. Milage is right in the ball park --- Starts good--- So you are saying its running a little rough ??? is that it ?
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