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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    If I understand this correctly, only one cylinder is fireing properly. ??? I would think maby the Rain got into the TCI, or, Pull the Plug out of the Reg/Rec Unit, ( this is the 2nd gen bike, right ??) Check the pins for Moisture, or over heating damage, causeing a voltage drop to th entire system. This is a strange one, Running good, parked for two days, then only run one cylinder, do I have that correct ??
  2. GeorgeS
    Then: !! Remove left side panel, find the TWO large White Plugs, 1. From Stator, going to the Regulator ( 3 wire plug, #14 White wires ) Open the Plug, and Inspect the male and female connectors. If any sign of black carbon or Burn Damage, must be cleaned up. Also, Inspect the male and female pins where crimped to the wires on both sides of the Plug. Make sure all of the Pins, are makeing a good tight fit !!! 2. Now find the Plug From the Regulator, do the same inspection . 3. Re Fit the plugs, now with enging OFF, Do a Resistance Check thru the Plugs, stick leads into each side, Make Sure ZERO Ohms thru All connections. 4. Now with Engine Running at 2000 RPM. Use your Voltmeter, Read --- ((( AC Voltage ))) --- From each of the 3 large white wires from the Stator, TO Ground. You will see some AC Voltage of about 5 to 10 Volts, AC. The Exact Voltage is not important, What is important, is that ALL 3 voltage levels are within about + or - 1 Volt AC. ((( IF one is Substantially Lower then the other two, then your STATOR, IS BAD !! sorry ))) 5. Pull the NEG BATTERY Cable, from its ground Point, at the Rt. , Fwd, Corner of the Engine case, ( ITS CORRODED, CLEAN IT !!! ) And Dip stud in Rosin Flux, and ReSolder the Stud to end of cable. OK, this should get you started. Those Two large Plugs, are VERY COMMON Trouble spots on these Bikes. !! We, have all been there !!!
  3. GeorgeS

    Bike Cleaning

    GeorgeS replied to Reed's topic in Watering Hole

    Tried something different this time. I sprayed down the entire carb bank, and engine with a big can of WD-40, let it sit for 30 min. then hit the whole thing again with a mix of 409, and soap, let that sit, Then gave it a water blast with my High Pressure Sprayer. Ahhh its clean now. But be sure to re - lubricate all the carb linkage parts, etc. etc.
  4. GeorgeS
    Next Election-- City, County, State, and Federal--- Vote Against " ALL " Incombunts !!!!!! No matter the Party,
  5. GeorgeS
    ??? :bang head: Stator ?? Well I suppose its possible, that one of the Stator Coils has a Winding of wire, inside of , one of the coils, that is going Dead Short, After, the Engine get to full operating Temperature. ( in other words, the wire does not go shorted untill the Oil gets to full temp ) Just gessing here again. So, if I was in the situation you are in at this point, I would order a NEW, AFTER Market, " Electrix " Stator, ( or whatever name they are sold under now ) and install it. The Rotor, as Squeez says, ??? Hmmm, don't know what to say about that, but again, anything is possible. Anybody, on the Site have a Junked out engine, might be a good Rotor sitting under sombodies work bench ---- ?????? Note: here, IF you find a different Rotor, on E-Bay, or somplace, be sure to Inspect all the parts of the Starter Engage Clutch, when you change the Rotor. If bike is over 50K and that clutch has never been changed, good time to do it. On a brighter Note: You fellows are now, much wiser Electricians !!! I know you don't want to be,
  6. GeorgeS
    I have run my 89 with one plug wire disconnected. ( by mistake ) and did not notice any appreciable vibration. ??
  7. GeorgeS
    Not sure, 73K on it. I was just checking things, put screwdriver on all 4 clamps, just to make sure they were tight. Seemed OK. Started engine, and heard the Popping during warm up. First time I ever heard it. Sucking sound, isolated to left side, and most likley the rear cylinder. So, if you hear the popping exhaust, you know where to look. I loosened the screw on the clamp, and it was obviious. ???? Who knows. You can change them bye just lifting the Carb bank up, about 1/2 inch. Not Easy, but can be done. This is the second one I have had to change.
  8. GeorgeS
    I think this question came up last week, and sombody said " Yes " there is something avialable, but I'm not sure, as I don't have a 2nd gen bike. Sombody will jump in with the info
  9. GeorgeS
    Couple pic's of the bad Intake manifold, #1 Cylinder. First sign of trouble was the Popping Sound of exhaust, then listioning closely, could here the sucking sound.
  10. GeorgeS
    He said they tried two spare regulators allready, I just can't believe they have 3 bad regulators,
  11. GeorgeS
    Well, now you know what a proper size, and properly wired "" Fuse,""" is for.
  12. GeorgeS
    I would say your burning just about right. For that kind of driveing !! The ONLY time I average 41 to 42, is on long Freeway runs, under good driveing condx. ( Outside of Mt Ranges ) Its been that way since the bike was new. I have made many trips, Seattle to Los Angeles on I-5 Cruzeing freeway speeds, and about 42, is tops. Maby a little better with a Tail wind. All I can say at this point, is Come in from a Hard Run, Pull the Plugs and read them. If the Color is Tan, I would not go any leaner !! Gas, is Cheaper the Replaceing Burnt up Valves !! Go Ride !!!! Its almost Summer time, If you want 50 MPG, you will need A Fuel Injected Bike. ( like my Busa, it gets about 52 ) ( Driveing conserativly on flat roads ) But its NOT comfortable.
  13. GeorgeS
    Remember, you said the ground wire was getting HOT. That means , that the wire has high resistance, Even if there is another problem on the bike (anything ) then you also have to repair that ground wire. !!! Another possibility, is that After bike gets HOT, there MIGHT, be a wireing problem under the Stator Cover. ie: the wires harness connections to the STATOR Unit itself. Maby after things get full hot, a connection is going bad. But this is a long shot. I still would OPEN up the Splices, From the Stator, where the Plug was removed previously, and check for Cold Solder Joints, ( Or Lack of Soldering ) ( Like in,-- maby ---the wires were just Twisted together, and covered with Black Tape !! )
  14. GeorgeS
    At this point, I think your Stator, and Regulator's, ( all of them ) are good. IF your Stator was Bad, the one of the 3 Phase AC voltage readings would be VERY Low. And I simply can't believe you could have 3 bad Regulators !! You Have Some BAD wireing Somplace. !!!!! IF, that Ground Wire Is getting HOT, then there is A High Resistance Connection ( ie: heating Element ) Somplace in that Wire. It ain't in the middle of the wire, its at one or both ends of it !!. Where the Stud was Crimped to end of wire strands, its Corroded, or most of the Strands of wire are broke off. ---- OPEN YOUR PLUGS, AND REPLACE THE STUDS, OR, CUT OUT THE PLUG AND SIMPLY SPLICE THE WIRES TOGETHER ( AND SOLDER THEM ) Pull the Pins out of the PLUG and repair them . OR, Just Cut OUT the " Output Plug " from the output side of the Regulator, and SPLICE THE RED AND BLACK WIRES TOGETHER, SOLDER AND INSULATE, AND GIVE IT A RUN. Point: Those TWO plugs have been the Source of about 90 percent of everybodies Charging problems. With the 1st Gen Ventures.
  15. GeorgeS
    Have you done a Compression Check on that Engine ?? Also, on your next run, Pull into shop, immediatly pull the Plugs, Post a close up of them. I would like to see what they look like.
  16. GeorgeS
    May I suggest documenting this Entire Situation, and Sending the Information to the, Bill O'Rilley show, at FOX News !! I'm thinking he might put it on the Air.
  17. GeorgeS
    You might as well, order a Clutch Master Rebuild kit, and order a New Clutch Slave cylinder.
  18. GeorgeS
    Decided to check my Carb Sync today, was getting set up, and warming up the engine. What do I hear ? the sucking sound from #1 Carb. Pretty loud. So, 3 hours of work, pulling out the intake manifold, and replaceing. Oh well, runs good now. OH, It did NOT RAIN, in Seattle today !!! Sunshine, and about 65 deg F. FINALLY!! Some hint of Global Warming !!! Hmmm,,, might go rideing tomorrow.
  19. GeorgeS
    Well, first time I heard that ( been working on my bike all day ) . Ok, that sounds like corrosion, or loose connection, at one end of one of the Main ground wires. Yamaha, Crimped the Studs to ends of wires, but did NOT Solder them. Most likley place, is Pins inside of the Plug, FROM the Regulator. Or that Main Grounding point Under the upper Fairing. You need to REMOVE the Studs, and Dip in Flux, and RE solder, OR Cut off the Stud, and Crimp on a NEW one, The only way to KNOW if the PINS in the Large Plugs, TO and From the Regulator is to REMOVE THE PINS !!! And Solder, or REplace them !!!!!! Just cause they look good, means nothing. Eaisest Fix, is to Tap into two blacks out of the PLUG, and Run TWo new # 14 Stranded, to a Frame Bolt, and another #12 from there to the Battery Neg. Stud, and Solder it to the Stud on end of Battery Neg Cable. IF that black wire was getting HOT, then One end of it, has a High Resistance Connection, Which is the same thing as the HEating Element on an Electric stove !!
  20. GeorgeS
    There is a Proportioning unit located by top of steering Fork. It has a Bleed Screw. However I have found that Bleeding lft front, then rear, then front again, go back and forth, a few times does seems to work. I use the My-T-Vac tool to get started and completly replace All of the Fluid. I use Valvoline Synthectic Brake fluid. Be sure to check the Inner Pad on rear caliper, they wear faster then the outer pads.
  21. GeorgeS
    Good luck --
  22. GeorgeS
    Consider the possibility, of " low Voltage " to the TCI, and Ignition Coils--- Places to check, for High Resistance Connections, in the " Ignition " Circuit --- 1. High Resistance, connection, ( ie: excess resistance ) across the Main 40 Amp fuse connections. caused by loose screws, or corroded " fuse element contacts " 2. Excess Resistance Across the Main Ignition Switch On-Off Contacts. 3. Excess Resistance Across the " 15 AMP Ignition Fuse " Prongs, ( clean prongs, and check for good contact to the fuse element ) Consider replaceing that fuse with a New " In-Line " Fuse holder. 4. The " Red Run-Stop " switch on right handlebar-- All current flow to the Ignition System, and Ignition Coils Flows Thru this switch!!!!! ANY EXCESS RESISTANCE ACROSS CONTACTS OF THIS SWITCH, WILL LOWER THE VOLTAGE TO THE ENTIRE IGNITION SYSTEM !!!! Open, and Clean the contacts of this switch. ------Also, follow the Cable from this switch, up to behind the headlight. there is a pull apart Plug there. Find it, and open and Clean the contacts. 5. Find the " Pressure Sensor " Located Forward, and above the Left, Fwd, Carb. Has a 3 wire cable going to it !! ( IT GETS POWER FROM THE IGNITION FUSE ) The Plug, has a Rubber Boot covering it !! This boot is mounted in a position that allows it to Collect " WATER " which will add resistance to Ground, This condition will lower voltage to the TCI, and ignition Coils. - Remove the rubber boot, and Clean these contacts. 6. Resolder, Both Ends, of Both main Battery Cables. 7. Consider the the Starter Solinoid, if over 50K, has Burnt Up Main Contacts inside the Solinoid ( This is Very Common ) Fix:--- Replace the Starter Solinoid-- 8. Have you ever Replaced the Plug Wires, If Not--- Get some 7MM solid Core copper plug wire from Auto parts dealer, and Replace the wires, Its Easy to do !! 9. Check the Resistance thru all 4 of your Spark Plug Caps !! Make sure all the same resistance. 10. Replace plugs with NGK, Iridium Plugs. they seem to help cold starting a little. And Another very common cause of hard starting, if Moisture, inside of the TCI Unit. Remove unit, remove cover, put in oven at 110 deg.F for 2 hours to Dry Out the Moisture that IS inside the TCI, ( They all have moisture inside, which causes problems ) After, all this, then go to work on the Carbs --- Also, check the Large Electrical plug from the Stator, to the Regulator, for Burnt Pins, ( Read the AC voltage on each of the three wires thru this plug ) Also, check the electrical Plug, From the Regulator going to battery and Ground points. ( Check your DC charging voltage at + Bat stud, should be at least 13.7 volts or as high as 14.2 ) If its below 13 volts. then you might have charging problems.
  23. GeorgeS
    Did you pull out the circuit board and Re-Solder all the connections of wires going " TO " The board. Also, the pig tail from the control unit, has a plug about 6 in. from the unit. Check the wires going into both sides of that plug, the Wires might be loose at the Pin Crimps on ends of those wires. Also, Under the passenger seat, left side of frame, the large Electrical plug, that has about 18 small wires going thru it. Open that plug and Clean with Contact cleaner and compressed air. Also, tug tug tug, on all the wires going thru this plug, might be a loose wire. Near the Rear compressor unit, there are a few electrical plugs, also clean, and examing these plugs. Most of the time, the Error Messages, end up being a " BAD " electrical connection. The last time I had the Control unit open, I simply Resoldered the Entire Circuit board, had a " Cold Solder Joint " somplace on the board. Its been OK since then.
  24. GeorgeS
    ------
  25. GeorgeS
    Remove kick stand, take to welding shop, and have a piece of 1/4 thick Steel, about 1/3/4 wide welded to the footprint of the stand. I did this on my 89, works great, and don't have to look for a beer can. Also, bike does not lean over as much when on side stand.
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